haute provence
Jun 8th, 2006 | 02:03 PM
#1
Original Poster
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
haute provence
Our trip to Provence is coming up fast. We will be driving from Marseille to a small village called Simiane de la Rotonde, 24km from Apt. Does anyone know great places to eat, sites to see while in Haute provence, in that area. We are only there for 3 days...I hope the lavender will be out (July 10). From the research I have done, I think that villages aren't too far away from one another and will be easy to drive to.
Thanks
Gilles
Thanks
Gilles
Jun 8th, 2006 | 02:17 PM
#2
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 43,742
Likes: 4
Jun 8th, 2006 | 02:39 PM
#3
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 16,518
Likes: 0
That's a very cute village. Not much going on there - several artisan shops, & a nice sandwich/salad place which will serve you in the old covered market area overlooking the lavender fields below. I'm not sure if there is a restaurant in town. I think I saw one there once, but not on another visit. I don't know how far you want to travel for dinner, but I have not found any great restaurants in that immediate area. Sault has a few pizza type places, and the hotel/restaurant Host. de Val de Sault, east of Sault - which is just OK (we dined there last year). It's a winding drive on some smaller roads to Apt - so I would not want to drive there for dinner. Banon might have a few simple restaurants. That's a beautiful area - especially around Sault, but it's a little remote.
I'm leaving for a 5 week vacation tomorrow, & will turn off my PC in about 2 hrs - so I won't be able to answer any more questions, if you have any. Below is the Lavender Route that's in my 20+ page Provence Itinerary that I've sent to over 500 people on this travel board. It passes through Simiane.
The lavender will be in full bloom in late June (depending on the weather) and in July (before harvesting). This is a lovely drive. It’s off the beaten path. Allow ¾ of a day. We have taken several of our friends on this route & they have all said the same thing – “this is what I expected Provence to look like”. There’s no ugly commerce – just vineyards, lavender fields, perched non-touristy medieval villages, spectacular gorges, mountains, and a chateau. Even if you are not visiting during lavender season, this is a very pretty drive - try do it on a clear day.
This route starts at Les Imberts, which is a small village just south of Gordes. Go towards Gordes on the D2, but just before Gordes, take the road to Sault that turns to the right (I think it’s still the D2). This will take you just east of Gordes where you will see another nice view of Gordes. From the D2, take the D102 toward Lioux where the road passes Joucas and there are vineyards everywhere (and some very “exclusive” homes). Follow the signs to Lioux and get on the D60 just past Joucas. As you approach Lioux, you will see a large “sheared” rock formation to your right. You may have already seen this formation from several vantage points in the Luberon – it’s quite spectacular in the evening when it “glows” as the late day sun hits it. Don’t go to Lioux, but instead take the D60A (towards Sault) which parallels the D60 (that goes through Lioux) – this will give you the best view of this rock formation. Once past Lioux, get on the D943 to Sault and follow the signs to Sault.
A few miles past Lioux, you will pass an interesting looking Chateau that still looks inhabited. Several miles past this Chateau, you will see some majestic lavender fields on both sides of the D943, with a fantastic view of Mt Ventoux in the background. We’ve managed to use up a couple of rolls of film here and also (discretely) clipped a few lavender stalks to throw on the floor of the car so that when we stepped on them, the lavender scent would be released and we would get the “smell” of Provence to go along with our viewing of Provence. Continue on the D943 toward Sault.
If you’re into perched villages and want to see my choice for perhaps the most “perfect” village, take a bypass to Simiane la Rotonde*. Just before reaching Sault on the D943 (before going over a bridge), take the D245 (on the Michelin map) southeast towards St Christol. This D245 is actually marked as the “D244 – Lagarde d’Apt” on the road signs, and on an IGN map I have, it’s marked as the D244 too – so I guess Michelin is wrong. There are more pretty lavender fields on this D244 (or D245). At St Christol, take theD30/D166/D18 to Simiane but do not drive into this perched village yet. Instead, bypass it and drive toward Carniol. You will pass some lavender fields in a valley just below Simiane, and then climb up on a bluff where you will get a spectacular view of Simiane with these lavender fields below – keep looking behind you toward Simiane to find this viewpoint. Now you can reverse the car & go back to Simiane for a visit.
As you approach Simiane, bear to the left and follow the signs to “la Rotonde”. This road may look like it is leaving Simiane, but it is actually getting you to the back of the town where there is a parking lot. Wander through Simiane. It’s a real pretty village. Try to find the small covered plaza with views back to where you viewed Simiane from the bluff. There is a place to get lunch close by & they will serve you on this plaza, which formerly was a marketplace.
Return to Sault on the D244 (AKA D245) – the D30 is not scenic.
As you get into Sault*, look for a lavender shop on the right just before a bunch of roads converge – it’s painted a lavender color (naturally). They will be closed for lunch. When we were there in June ’05, the store was closed & for sale. Hopefully someone will buy it & open it up again. The second road to the right just past this shop will take you to a parking lot. Explore Sault. There are a few cute shops & many outside spots to have lunch. Opposite the lavender shop, there is a very famous nougat store. The most scenic place for lunch is near a very large park that overlooks the massive lavender fields in the valley below Sault (you will be driving through these fields next). There is usually a pizza truck parked nearby if you don’t want a “sit down” lunch and you just want to plop on a bench in this grassy area, admire the view, and munch on a slice of pizza.
Now, lets drive down and look at these lavender fields below Sault. Exit Sault on the D942 toward Aurel, and as you drive past the grassy area where you had the pizza with the views, look for a sign to Mt Ventoux and the D164. Once on the D164, it will take a very sharp left turn, but you will go straight on to a small road that is not numbered on your Michelin map. A sign says “Chemin des Lavandes”. Look at the map & try to find this small road that parallels the D942. It is to the west of the D942. Once on this small unmarked road (parallel to the D942), follow it for about 1 K and then take a left (It will probably be the first left that looks like a drive-able road). Keep following this road, bearing right most of the time as it snakes around a little. About 3 K past where you turned left, a few roads will converge. Bear to the right (don’t go to les Crottes) and head uphill to where the road connects with the D942 just south of Aurel. You’ll see a lot of lavender on this drive. If you mark this route on your Michelin map, it will look like the “Big Dipper”
Take the D942 to Aurel and then toward Montbrun. Just past Aurel, you will leave the Department of the Valcluse and enter the Department of the Drome where the road quality will change and the D942 will suddenly become the D542.
Get the cameras ready as you drive to Montbrun*. As you approach the D72 just before Montbrun, look to your left for a good view of the village of Reilhanette. Continue on to the perched village of Montbrun. We’ve shot a lot of pictures of this village from down below. It’s not worth exploring “inside” this village, however, unless you need to stretch your legs.
You will now drive up onto a higher plateau where you will get some fantastic views of Montbrun, Mt Ventoux, the surrounding mountains, and to where the “true” lavender is grown.
From below Montbrun, take the D542 into Montbrun, but as you are heading up into the village, the road will split to the left into the center of Montbrun, and to the right out of the center – take the road to the right and try to find the road sign to Ferrassieres. You will turn right onto this road to Ferrassieres – it’s marked as the D189. It first passes some sort of vacation village, and as you follow the D189 up, and up, and up, you will get some great views of Montbrun and the mountains – including Mt Ventoux (imagine Lance Armstrong biking up this mountain & securing the TDF victory in ‘02).
Once up on the top of this plateau, you’ll find more lavender fields.
From Ferrassieres, take the D63 and then the D95 to Aurel, and then take the D942 back to Sault.
We’re leaving lavender country now & you’ll visit the Gorges de la Nesque**. From Sault, leave south on the road you traveled on before (toward St Cristol) and look for the street sign indicating a sharp right hand turn, and get on the D942 to Gorges de la Nesque. Stop at the several view points along the Gorge.
After the Gorge ends, take the D942 to just short of Mazan, then the D77 to Malemort (lots of vineuards along the way). Drive into Malmort until you spot the fountain, town gate, and Lavoir (wash basin) – take a picture. Continue on the D77 toward and Venasque*. There is a pictureque view of Venasque from the D77 – the best view will be in the morning. Explore Venasque if you have time.
Take the D4 southeast from Venasque. There are two options for returning to Gordes. Take the D177 where you will drive through another gorge and past Senanque Abby** OR take the D15 to Murs then Joucas where you will get a great view of the rock outcropping at Lioux. Both of these routes are very scenic.
Stu Dudley
I'm leaving for a 5 week vacation tomorrow, & will turn off my PC in about 2 hrs - so I won't be able to answer any more questions, if you have any. Below is the Lavender Route that's in my 20+ page Provence Itinerary that I've sent to over 500 people on this travel board. It passes through Simiane.
The lavender will be in full bloom in late June (depending on the weather) and in July (before harvesting). This is a lovely drive. It’s off the beaten path. Allow ¾ of a day. We have taken several of our friends on this route & they have all said the same thing – “this is what I expected Provence to look like”. There’s no ugly commerce – just vineyards, lavender fields, perched non-touristy medieval villages, spectacular gorges, mountains, and a chateau. Even if you are not visiting during lavender season, this is a very pretty drive - try do it on a clear day.
This route starts at Les Imberts, which is a small village just south of Gordes. Go towards Gordes on the D2, but just before Gordes, take the road to Sault that turns to the right (I think it’s still the D2). This will take you just east of Gordes where you will see another nice view of Gordes. From the D2, take the D102 toward Lioux where the road passes Joucas and there are vineyards everywhere (and some very “exclusive” homes). Follow the signs to Lioux and get on the D60 just past Joucas. As you approach Lioux, you will see a large “sheared” rock formation to your right. You may have already seen this formation from several vantage points in the Luberon – it’s quite spectacular in the evening when it “glows” as the late day sun hits it. Don’t go to Lioux, but instead take the D60A (towards Sault) which parallels the D60 (that goes through Lioux) – this will give you the best view of this rock formation. Once past Lioux, get on the D943 to Sault and follow the signs to Sault.
A few miles past Lioux, you will pass an interesting looking Chateau that still looks inhabited. Several miles past this Chateau, you will see some majestic lavender fields on both sides of the D943, with a fantastic view of Mt Ventoux in the background. We’ve managed to use up a couple of rolls of film here and also (discretely) clipped a few lavender stalks to throw on the floor of the car so that when we stepped on them, the lavender scent would be released and we would get the “smell” of Provence to go along with our viewing of Provence. Continue on the D943 toward Sault.
If you’re into perched villages and want to see my choice for perhaps the most “perfect” village, take a bypass to Simiane la Rotonde*. Just before reaching Sault on the D943 (before going over a bridge), take the D245 (on the Michelin map) southeast towards St Christol. This D245 is actually marked as the “D244 – Lagarde d’Apt” on the road signs, and on an IGN map I have, it’s marked as the D244 too – so I guess Michelin is wrong. There are more pretty lavender fields on this D244 (or D245). At St Christol, take theD30/D166/D18 to Simiane but do not drive into this perched village yet. Instead, bypass it and drive toward Carniol. You will pass some lavender fields in a valley just below Simiane, and then climb up on a bluff where you will get a spectacular view of Simiane with these lavender fields below – keep looking behind you toward Simiane to find this viewpoint. Now you can reverse the car & go back to Simiane for a visit.
As you approach Simiane, bear to the left and follow the signs to “la Rotonde”. This road may look like it is leaving Simiane, but it is actually getting you to the back of the town where there is a parking lot. Wander through Simiane. It’s a real pretty village. Try to find the small covered plaza with views back to where you viewed Simiane from the bluff. There is a place to get lunch close by & they will serve you on this plaza, which formerly was a marketplace.
Return to Sault on the D244 (AKA D245) – the D30 is not scenic.
As you get into Sault*, look for a lavender shop on the right just before a bunch of roads converge – it’s painted a lavender color (naturally). They will be closed for lunch. When we were there in June ’05, the store was closed & for sale. Hopefully someone will buy it & open it up again. The second road to the right just past this shop will take you to a parking lot. Explore Sault. There are a few cute shops & many outside spots to have lunch. Opposite the lavender shop, there is a very famous nougat store. The most scenic place for lunch is near a very large park that overlooks the massive lavender fields in the valley below Sault (you will be driving through these fields next). There is usually a pizza truck parked nearby if you don’t want a “sit down” lunch and you just want to plop on a bench in this grassy area, admire the view, and munch on a slice of pizza.
Now, lets drive down and look at these lavender fields below Sault. Exit Sault on the D942 toward Aurel, and as you drive past the grassy area where you had the pizza with the views, look for a sign to Mt Ventoux and the D164. Once on the D164, it will take a very sharp left turn, but you will go straight on to a small road that is not numbered on your Michelin map. A sign says “Chemin des Lavandes”. Look at the map & try to find this small road that parallels the D942. It is to the west of the D942. Once on this small unmarked road (parallel to the D942), follow it for about 1 K and then take a left (It will probably be the first left that looks like a drive-able road). Keep following this road, bearing right most of the time as it snakes around a little. About 3 K past where you turned left, a few roads will converge. Bear to the right (don’t go to les Crottes) and head uphill to where the road connects with the D942 just south of Aurel. You’ll see a lot of lavender on this drive. If you mark this route on your Michelin map, it will look like the “Big Dipper”
Take the D942 to Aurel and then toward Montbrun. Just past Aurel, you will leave the Department of the Valcluse and enter the Department of the Drome where the road quality will change and the D942 will suddenly become the D542.
Get the cameras ready as you drive to Montbrun*. As you approach the D72 just before Montbrun, look to your left for a good view of the village of Reilhanette. Continue on to the perched village of Montbrun. We’ve shot a lot of pictures of this village from down below. It’s not worth exploring “inside” this village, however, unless you need to stretch your legs.
You will now drive up onto a higher plateau where you will get some fantastic views of Montbrun, Mt Ventoux, the surrounding mountains, and to where the “true” lavender is grown.
From below Montbrun, take the D542 into Montbrun, but as you are heading up into the village, the road will split to the left into the center of Montbrun, and to the right out of the center – take the road to the right and try to find the road sign to Ferrassieres. You will turn right onto this road to Ferrassieres – it’s marked as the D189. It first passes some sort of vacation village, and as you follow the D189 up, and up, and up, you will get some great views of Montbrun and the mountains – including Mt Ventoux (imagine Lance Armstrong biking up this mountain & securing the TDF victory in ‘02).
Once up on the top of this plateau, you’ll find more lavender fields.
From Ferrassieres, take the D63 and then the D95 to Aurel, and then take the D942 back to Sault.
We’re leaving lavender country now & you’ll visit the Gorges de la Nesque**. From Sault, leave south on the road you traveled on before (toward St Cristol) and look for the street sign indicating a sharp right hand turn, and get on the D942 to Gorges de la Nesque. Stop at the several view points along the Gorge.
After the Gorge ends, take the D942 to just short of Mazan, then the D77 to Malemort (lots of vineuards along the way). Drive into Malmort until you spot the fountain, town gate, and Lavoir (wash basin) – take a picture. Continue on the D77 toward and Venasque*. There is a pictureque view of Venasque from the D77 – the best view will be in the morning. Explore Venasque if you have time.
Take the D4 southeast from Venasque. There are two options for returning to Gordes. Take the D177 where you will drive through another gorge and past Senanque Abby** OR take the D15 to Murs then Joucas where you will get a great view of the rock outcropping at Lioux. Both of these routes are very scenic.
Stu Dudley
Trending Topics
Jun 8th, 2006 | 03:45 PM
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
We've ventured into the Alpes de Haute Provence a couple of times when we lived in Provence last year. This area is high on our list for more time when we are there for a month this summer.
We've been to Simiane de Rotonde, drove up to the upper village and even got out of the car and walked around. I have some photos, but they're unfortunately not posted on the web. It is a very quiet village with the old "rotonde (a castle keep) at the top. I recall a restaurant of some sort down at the main road. We would have been up there in late October. I remember having to stop our car on a very small road so a shepherd could herd his sheep across the road.
We spent several hours in Forcalquier, which is about 30 minutes from Simiane. There is supposedly a great outdoor market on Mondays, which we're definitely planning to visit this summer. We had a good lunch at the Cafe du Commerce on the main square-- ate outside in February; see my review here: http://www.slowtrav.com/france/resta...;s=forcalquier. Forcalquier is a bigger town with a citadel at the top and some fabulous views.
The Michelin Green Guide (for the French Alps) lists two restaurants in Forcalquier: L'Aigo Blanco (budget) and Le Lapin Tant Pis (moderate). The Green Guides include only a very few restaurant recommendations, focusing on regional cuisine.
We also enjoyed a drive through the Gorges d'Oppedette, very near to where you will be. There is some hiking there too.
The village of Banon is just north of Simiane. This village is known for its special goat cheese, wrapped in chestnut leaves. We drove up to the top of Banon also... another wonderful view.
We also spent a day in Sisteron, farther north. This is a uniquely-situated town, also topped by big citadel, but this is an hour from Simiane and may be farther than you want to go.
You will make your own discoveries. I think it's great that you are staying in Simiane and will e anxious to hear about it. Make sure you have a decent map and then just follow your nose to what interests you. Sometimes your best memories are the ones that you didn't set out to find...
Kathy
We've been to Simiane de Rotonde, drove up to the upper village and even got out of the car and walked around. I have some photos, but they're unfortunately not posted on the web. It is a very quiet village with the old "rotonde (a castle keep) at the top. I recall a restaurant of some sort down at the main road. We would have been up there in late October. I remember having to stop our car on a very small road so a shepherd could herd his sheep across the road.
We spent several hours in Forcalquier, which is about 30 minutes from Simiane. There is supposedly a great outdoor market on Mondays, which we're definitely planning to visit this summer. We had a good lunch at the Cafe du Commerce on the main square-- ate outside in February; see my review here: http://www.slowtrav.com/france/resta...;s=forcalquier. Forcalquier is a bigger town with a citadel at the top and some fabulous views.
The Michelin Green Guide (for the French Alps) lists two restaurants in Forcalquier: L'Aigo Blanco (budget) and Le Lapin Tant Pis (moderate). The Green Guides include only a very few restaurant recommendations, focusing on regional cuisine.
We also enjoyed a drive through the Gorges d'Oppedette, very near to where you will be. There is some hiking there too.
The village of Banon is just north of Simiane. This village is known for its special goat cheese, wrapped in chestnut leaves. We drove up to the top of Banon also... another wonderful view.
We also spent a day in Sisteron, farther north. This is a uniquely-situated town, also topped by big citadel, but this is an hour from Simiane and may be farther than you want to go.
You will make your own discoveries. I think it's great that you are staying in Simiane and will e anxious to hear about it. Make sure you have a decent map and then just follow your nose to what interests you. Sometimes your best memories are the ones that you didn't set out to find...
Kathy
Jun 8th, 2006 | 03:50 PM
#9
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 43,742
Likes: 4
Click on a red dot in the area for a virtual panarama look
http://www.alpes-haute-provence.com/360/index.htm
http://www.alpes-haute-provence.com/360/index.htm
Jun 9th, 2006 | 06:37 PM
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Moise, I came across some other information on Simiane-la-Rotonde today. Bob and Sue Winn have written a great guidebook on the Luberon, which includes several driving tours (filled with information), restaurant reviews etc. One of their driving loops includes Simane-la Rotonde.
According to the book, the old village has a couple of shops and a cermaics gallery. About halfway up the village there is a "very nice care, with good food and a friendly owner." The cafe serves that great Banon cheese mentioned above. The name of the cafe is La Palette. From the information in the book, the hours are 10-5.
You really might consider buying the Winns' book. You can only buy it through their website: www.provencebyways.com This has been an invaluable resource for me, and I've ended up getting to places that I would never have found on my own.
Kathy
According to the book, the old village has a couple of shops and a cermaics gallery. About halfway up the village there is a "very nice care, with good food and a friendly owner." The cafe serves that great Banon cheese mentioned above. The name of the cafe is La Palette. From the information in the book, the hours are 10-5.
You really might consider buying the Winns' book. You can only buy it through their website: www.provencebyways.com This has been an invaluable resource for me, and I've ended up getting to places that I would never have found on my own.
Kathy
