Go Back  Fodor's Travel Talk Forums > Destinations > Europe
Reload this Page >

Harz Area-Germany

Search

Harz Area-Germany

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Mar 6th, 2019, 11:37 AM
  #1  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,065
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Harz Area-Germany

I realize that this is an area not well known to many Americans, but I am looking for input from those familiar with Niedersachsen and Sachsen-Anhalt.

A friend and I are heading for one week to Goslar at the end of April. We are travelling by train or bus.
ABSOLUTES are the following daytrips:
1)Wernigerode
2) Quedlinburg
3) Hike der Goetheweg up to Brocken, Brockenbahn back down
4) initial 1 1/2 days exploring Goslar.
We have TWO more full days to consider the following destinations:
A) Goettingen- 1hr15m-1hr45min travel
B) Wolfenbuettel-40-60 mins
C) Hildesheim-39 mins
D) Hameln-2 hr travel
E) Kassel-2hr-2hr 30 min
F) Hannoversch Muenden-2hr 30 min
My absolute limit on one way train travel time to reach these destinations is 2 hours, unless the site is spectacular!
Keeping in mind that we should be pretty well saturated on half-timbered buildings just between Goslar, Quedlinburg and Wernigerode, which of these choices might be your top 2-3 for something more?
Thanks in advance to those with direct experience!
mokka4 is offline  
Old Mar 6th, 2019, 12:33 PM
  #2  
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 18,022
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
There is an excellent and hopefully helpful trip report from Annhig here: Mr & Mrs Annhig go bummelling round Germany.
hetismij2 is offline  
Old Mar 6th, 2019, 01:36 PM
  #3  
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,214
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Not everyone on this forum is American;-)
In fact, I spent the first 22 years of my life in Braunschweig and many family outings as well as school trips were spent in and around the Harz.

So allow me a few comments...
A) Goettingen- 1hr15m-1hr45min travel
A fine old university town. I haven't been for ages but will be going for a convention at the end of this month. I'll be able to tell you more afterwards.

B) Wolfenbuettel-40-60 mins
If you are after more half-timbered houses - then this is a fine destination. If not, however, there is little reason to go (unless you have a special interest in the treasures of Herzog August Library).

C) Hildesheim-39 mins
Easy to reach and worthwhile for the cathedral, the Ottonic church of St Michael, the top-class Egyptian museum. The old town was heavily hit in World War II, so what you see are mostly reconstructions.

D) Hameln-2 hr travel
Half-timbered houses again, but also the Renaissance architecture of the Weser region, and the tale of the Pied Piper. Worthwhile, but a bit far for my taste.

E) Kassel-2hr-2hr 30 min
What for? Any special interests? Kassel has a couple of excellent museums, and there is Wilhelmshöhe park and palace. The city itself is a rather ugly post-war rebuilding. So unless there is a special must-see for you, like one of the museums, I'd say skip it, also because of the travel time.

F) Hannoversch Muenden-2hr 30 min
Another place for half-timbered houses and much too far - you have similar towns closer by.
quokka is offline  
Old Mar 6th, 2019, 02:07 PM
  #4  
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 78,320
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Celle is yet another fine old city near Gottingen.
PalenQ is offline  
Old Mar 6th, 2019, 02:15 PM
  #5  
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,214
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Celle is not near Göttingen but a lot further north. Another very fine old town, but, once more, an overkill of half-timbered houses. Getting there would again require at least two hours. The Renaissance palace is special, though.
quokka is offline  
Old Mar 6th, 2019, 02:23 PM
  #6  
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 78,320
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
OK - how about steam trains I rode years ago - any still working on Harz regular lines like then? I went from Nordhausen to Wenigerode on them. Danke!
PalenQ is offline  
Old Mar 6th, 2019, 03:06 PM
  #7  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,065
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Yes, thanks quokka,
I appreciate that all members of this community are not American, but so far, I have not been getting much input to my queries into this region!

You confirm what I suspected--that traveling to some of the further towns listed would primarily yield 'just' more Fachwerkhaeuser. ;-)

Hameln was chosen for its 'Pied Piper' connection.
Hann. Muenden receives much praise for its scenic situation at the confluence of the Fulda and Werra rivers. But it seemed much too far to really consider.
Kassel, as the home of Brothers Grimm, but also a geographical outlier.

Can you add any comment to our plan to hike from bus stop Torfhaus Clausthal-Zellerfeld via der Goetheweg? We would travel back down via Brockenbahn to either Schierke or Wernigerode, whichever has better connections to DB for return to Goslar.
mokka4 is offline  
Old Mar 6th, 2019, 03:30 PM
  #8  
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 78,320
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I appreciate that all members of this community are not American, but so far, I have not been getting much input to my queries into this region!>

Thanks for having someone who knows so much about the region - I have rarely seen much mentioned about Harz here. You seem to know so much already - Mokka is better than any guidebook IMO on this.
PalenQ is offline  
Old Mar 6th, 2019, 09:05 PM
  #9  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,906
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Have you thought about Stendal? Red Brickstone architecture. Winckelmann's birthplace, new museum opened recently. Sorry, cannot help with Niedersachsen.
Ingo is offline  
Old Mar 6th, 2019, 10:23 PM
  #10  
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,214
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Sorry mokka, I cannot tell you much about the hiking. I must have walked about each and every metre of trail in the western part of the Harz as a kid (the east was off-bounds to us for obvious reasons) but I don't remember much about details. Torfhaus will forever be connected with a terrible one-week skiing trip we were forced to do in 7th form...

A lot has changed since 1989, new trails have been created and marked that cross the former border zone - this Goetheweg is one of them. It's hard to imagine now that the Iron Fence which divided Europe into East and West ran right through here, along the bottom of the valley between Torfhaus and Brocken. We often stood and stared at these fortifications. From the west we were able to approach them and get a good view.

The steam trains are still running as the backbone of public transport in the eastern Harz. DB trains do not enter the mountains as all these tracks are narrow gauge. You'll have to go down to Wernigerode to connect to DB.
quokka is offline  
Old Mar 7th, 2019, 09:23 AM
  #11  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,906
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Schierke has no access to DB. You must take Brockenbahn/HSB all the way to Wernigerode.

I did a cross-country ski tour once from Schierke to Oderbrück and up to Brocken, which is in parts on the same trail that you plan to hike. I do not recall any obstacles - not too steep, no cliffs or tricky ladders like elsewhere in mountains. The biggest issue is the weather - if it is unstable, foggy, windy, cold then stay away.
Ingo is offline  
Old Mar 7th, 2019, 09:38 AM
  #12  
 
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 12,820
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
My input will be vague, but I have visited many of the towns you have listed. Quedlinburg is the queen of them all, as far as I'm concerned. Wernigerode is quite charming. It seems to me that there's always a festival of some kind there, including one that had line dancing, of all things. The last time I visited Wernigerode, there was another festival, but I don't recall the theme.

I attended a Goethe Institute at Göttingen but didn't think it measured up in the "Fachwerk factor," as did others.
Pegontheroad is offline  
Old Mar 7th, 2019, 10:21 AM
  #13  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,065
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks everyone for your kind responses!
I would be content doing most anything in Germany or Switzerland, but because my travel mate is a newbie, I was looking to plan a mix of a little hiking, a former E. Germany site, museums, half-timber houses, cafes with people-watching, Konditoreien, Biergarten, usw.
The Egyptian museum, KnochenhauerAmtshaus, St. Mary's Cathedral and Church of St. Michael in Hildesheim all look really enticing, so that's a pick.
As for Schierke, I did see no DB, and getting bus connections seemed a little vexing, so we'll just ride onto Wernigerode.

My final free day is either Hameln or Goettingen. I will do some more reading.

After the first week, we move to Bacharach for 4 nights, but I have been to RP many times, and will be revisiting favorites in THAT region.

Merci again.

mokka4 is offline  
Old Mar 7th, 2019, 11:07 AM
  #14  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,065
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hetismij,
Thanks for linking your old TR. I reread it carefully,
now that I will be in the same area!
mokka4 is offline  
Old Mar 7th, 2019, 12:39 PM
  #15  
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 78,320
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
quokka - thanks for info on steam trains!
PalenQ is offline  
Old Mar 7th, 2019, 02:16 PM
  #16  
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,214
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Here is the website for the steam trains. It's just partly in English, but timetable information etc. should be easy to find.
https://www.hsb-wr.de/en/start/
quokka is offline  
Old Mar 7th, 2019, 02:26 PM
  #17  
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Man you are hard to please. You will be situated in one of the richest cultural areas in Germany with the most UNESCO World Heritage sites, the heartland of the Empire 1000 years ago and with lots of towns which represent Germany's most unique contribution to architecture namely all the variations on half-timbered buildings (they naturally exist in neighbouring countries but they are far less inventive and stylistically varied there). While I'm the first person to advise mixing thing up a little you a) have lots of options with other stuff to see and b) it obviously helps a bit to be able to differentiate between the towns and buildings. There are different styles throughout the centuries in different regions and the towns in the Harz were struck by fires at different times. Some places represent a coherent picture of one era, some offer examples from the different ages. Look at the decorative patterns of the timber and at the decorative carvings themselves. Maybe splash out and book a specialist in Goslar who can give you a crash course guided tour on the basics. Also it helps not to be as clueless as the folks in the trip report linked above.

You have the castle in Wernigerode, the St. Servatius church and its treasury in Quedlinburg, the Imperial palace and the mining museum in Goslar which are all very diverse sights. Once in Quedlinburg you might want to invest the 15 minutes to Gernrode to see St. Cyriakus there. This is the most important Ottonian church just before St. Michael in Hildesheim. Also Halberstadt's cathedral should be seen.
Hildesheim is for already mentioned reasons the arguably best choice because it holds the most important artworks of the region. Also Braunschweig would be a pretty obvious choice where beyond the remains of the old town you can visit a very strong painting gallery, the Herzog Anton Ulrich museum.
Lubitsch is offline  
Old Mar 7th, 2019, 04:40 PM
  #18  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,065
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Lubitsch,
Not sure what you mean when you say I am hard to please?!
We are devoting nearly 2 full days to exploring our hometown of Goslar, with all it has to offer, and one full day each to Wernigerode and Quedlinburg.

My interest in Hameln includes the 200-year-old Jewish cemetary, die Insel, the Hochzeitshaus mit Glockenspiel, and the Renaissance architecture of the Weser region.

Goettingen for the Gaenseliesel (yes, really!), strolling through the Stadtwald and for the Bismarckturm views, the old Botanical Gardens with medicinal plants and Arboretum, and the Rathaus.
(My background is in medicine. I absolutely LOVED the historical medicine museum in Zurich!)

Actually, I have a lot of interest in the European Brotmuseum and Wilhelm-Busch Muehle in nearby Ebergoetzen, but I think a further bus ride would really be pushing it! (Too bad 😞&#128546

Anyway thanks again for responding!
mokka4 is offline  
Old Mar 7th, 2019, 05:19 PM
  #19  
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I was referring to your worries about a burnout on half-timbered houses. To a certain degree this might be true but it really depends on how you plan your days.
Hameln is simply very much out of your way. Not sure what your connections to some beer garden and a rather insgnificant cemetery are but regarding Weser Renaissance a visit to Hameln is best combined with Schloß Hämelschenburg. This would however add even more miles to your trip ...
Göttingen, well I'm not sure it's exactly the great change of pace you'd get there though obviously it's a lively university town. Hildesheim and Braunschweig would be better for that. Einbeck is also a pretty awesome half-timbered town ...
Lubitsch is offline  
Old Mar 8th, 2019, 05:05 AM
  #20  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,065
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I see! To be honest, a few years ago, I traveled with a different friend, basing in Bamberg.
We also visited Amberg, where a Pfingstefest was going on, Nuernberg and Rothenberg. Each had something different to offer, but I could see my travel mate's eyes start to glaze over!
Hildesheim is a 'for sure' this April.
I will research Einbeck...thanks!
mokka4 is offline  


Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -