Hanabillies head to the Serenissima and beyond
Aug 3rd, 2013, 01:50 PM
#41
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Okay, my re-entry isn't starting well. Yesterday I typed 3 or 4 paragraphs for today’s post. Using a smallish laptop I am not completely comfortable with, I performed a magic act and somehow it all disappeared. Grrrr. There was not even any wine involved, which is my usual excuse for silly mistakes. This one's all on me. Darned new-fangled writin' machines!
Sunday 10/14
We enjoy another leisurely breakfast with our very charming and gracious server, Bruna. Of course by now she knows just how we like our coffee, and presents it soon after we sit down. The breakfasts are nice, but they do cause us to head out each day a little later than intended. I think starting tomorrow we start skipping them.
Today we head out to the island of Murano. I know that here it is often suggested to give Murano a pass, but for us it was a natural choice, even though it meant foregoing some other sights. Remember, we are both suckers for any trip across water. Also, we enjoy art glass as well as the historic pieces. (Before we met, both DH and I had collections of old, turquoise bottles. That’s probably how he knew I was the one. ) Granted, the island is not nearly as charming as Burano, or as peaceful as Torcello, but today it was about the glass for us, and off we go. Of course, I’m feeling pretty sassy by now because we know the direct route to the Fondamente without searching for any landmarks. Even without the corner vegetable market to mark the spot to turn left.
With a beautiful blue sky above, we left the umbrellas behind in favor of travelling lightly. Lesson learned. A slight drizzle greeted us as we arrived, but did not really detract from wandering a bit, enjoying the public glass sculptures and window shopping. The drizzle grew fairly quickly, however, to a good downpour, so we find the glass museum, glad to be indoors with nobody trying to sell us something. I enjoyed this museum, with pieces from Etruscan to contemporary. It’s not someplace you’ll need to dedicate a full or even half a day to enjoy. I think we browsed around for maybe just a little over an hour. By the time we were finished, the sky was once again blue, and we enjoyed some very peaceful time in the courtyard of the museum.
After the museum we decided to find the vaporetto and head back before another storm finds us. We boarded at the first vaporetto stop we found, and proceeded through the interior of Murano. There is probably a way to avoid this milk run in favor of a more direct route back, but we were just happy to be on the warm and dry boat!
Sunday 10/14
We enjoy another leisurely breakfast with our very charming and gracious server, Bruna. Of course by now she knows just how we like our coffee, and presents it soon after we sit down. The breakfasts are nice, but they do cause us to head out each day a little later than intended. I think starting tomorrow we start skipping them.
Today we head out to the island of Murano. I know that here it is often suggested to give Murano a pass, but for us it was a natural choice, even though it meant foregoing some other sights. Remember, we are both suckers for any trip across water. Also, we enjoy art glass as well as the historic pieces. (Before we met, both DH and I had collections of old, turquoise bottles. That’s probably how he knew I was the one. ) Granted, the island is not nearly as charming as Burano, or as peaceful as Torcello, but today it was about the glass for us, and off we go. Of course, I’m feeling pretty sassy by now because we know the direct route to the Fondamente without searching for any landmarks. Even without the corner vegetable market to mark the spot to turn left.
With a beautiful blue sky above, we left the umbrellas behind in favor of travelling lightly. Lesson learned. A slight drizzle greeted us as we arrived, but did not really detract from wandering a bit, enjoying the public glass sculptures and window shopping. The drizzle grew fairly quickly, however, to a good downpour, so we find the glass museum, glad to be indoors with nobody trying to sell us something. I enjoyed this museum, with pieces from Etruscan to contemporary. It’s not someplace you’ll need to dedicate a full or even half a day to enjoy. I think we browsed around for maybe just a little over an hour. By the time we were finished, the sky was once again blue, and we enjoyed some very peaceful time in the courtyard of the museum.
After the museum we decided to find the vaporetto and head back before another storm finds us. We boarded at the first vaporetto stop we found, and proceeded through the interior of Murano. There is probably a way to avoid this milk run in favor of a more direct route back, but we were just happy to be on the warm and dry boat!
Aug 3rd, 2013, 03:08 PM
#43
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Sunday continued…
The package that I purchased through Luxury Link included two “light lunches” for two. Today we decided to take advantage of the first of them. We arrived back at our hotel a little late for lunch, but they seemed happy to serve us even though there was no one else in the dining room. The lunch included our choice of a pasta course and a beverage. I didn’t expect to be blown away by a free lunch, but both lunches were nice. I had a simple spaghetti pomodoro and it hit the spot. DH ordered his first Spritz and enjoyed it enough to order another. I never did order a Spritz, even though I had planned to at least once. I found I just couldn’t pass up a nice, cold Proseco whenever I had the chance. I don’t remember what DH had for lunch, but he said it was good (with that tone of voice that implied “good, but not spectacular.”) Had we been there a little longer, I would have liked to try the hotel’s restaurant for dinner just once. On TripAdvisor, many people loved it and some found it just so-so.
After lunch we head back to the room for a rest and to take care of housekeeping items like charging appliances, downloading (or is it uploading?) pictures and a little reading. After freshening up we go in search of a Sunday night dinner, which I knew might be a little bit of a challenge. I had done so much research before this trip, but I didn’t really have a good plan, or even a good list, for Sunday night dinners. I was hoping Promesi Sposi would be open, as we hadn’t been able to get reservations on two previous nights. It was just a couple short “blocks” from the hotel, so that was the first place we tried. Nope. So, I figure we can sort of just wander around and find something, but one of us didn’t seem to have the patience for wandering just then, so I hoped we’d find something soon. After a few minutes through the tiny streets that seem so much smaller in the dark, we spied an illuminated “Open” sign –the only light in sight. As it turned out, we had stepped into the back courtyard of Al Fontega dei Pescatori, which was one of the restaurants I had researched and hoped to try. Dinner had its high points (whole branzini baked in salt) and its low points (the mixed seafood appetizer.) The service was the warmest we had yet experienced in Venice. We were able to joke and chat a little with the servers, and that’s what I enjoy so much more than the stuffed shirt variety.
This is a good place to mention my observation regarding dinner reservations. I have read so many times that reserving the day prior or even early in the day of would be sufficient, so the only reservations I made before leaving home were for our first evening and our first lunch. However, when we asked our front desk on Thursday afternoon to call Promesi Sposi for us, they were unable to secure reservations for either Thursday or Friday; so, if there’s any place that you particularly want to try, making reservations from home might be a good idea.
The package that I purchased through Luxury Link included two “light lunches” for two. Today we decided to take advantage of the first of them. We arrived back at our hotel a little late for lunch, but they seemed happy to serve us even though there was no one else in the dining room. The lunch included our choice of a pasta course and a beverage. I didn’t expect to be blown away by a free lunch, but both lunches were nice. I had a simple spaghetti pomodoro and it hit the spot. DH ordered his first Spritz and enjoyed it enough to order another. I never did order a Spritz, even though I had planned to at least once. I found I just couldn’t pass up a nice, cold Proseco whenever I had the chance. I don’t remember what DH had for lunch, but he said it was good (with that tone of voice that implied “good, but not spectacular.”) Had we been there a little longer, I would have liked to try the hotel’s restaurant for dinner just once. On TripAdvisor, many people loved it and some found it just so-so.
After lunch we head back to the room for a rest and to take care of housekeeping items like charging appliances, downloading (or is it uploading?) pictures and a little reading. After freshening up we go in search of a Sunday night dinner, which I knew might be a little bit of a challenge. I had done so much research before this trip, but I didn’t really have a good plan, or even a good list, for Sunday night dinners. I was hoping Promesi Sposi would be open, as we hadn’t been able to get reservations on two previous nights. It was just a couple short “blocks” from the hotel, so that was the first place we tried. Nope. So, I figure we can sort of just wander around and find something, but one of us didn’t seem to have the patience for wandering just then, so I hoped we’d find something soon. After a few minutes through the tiny streets that seem so much smaller in the dark, we spied an illuminated “Open” sign –the only light in sight. As it turned out, we had stepped into the back courtyard of Al Fontega dei Pescatori, which was one of the restaurants I had researched and hoped to try. Dinner had its high points (whole branzini baked in salt) and its low points (the mixed seafood appetizer.) The service was the warmest we had yet experienced in Venice. We were able to joke and chat a little with the servers, and that’s what I enjoy so much more than the stuffed shirt variety.
This is a good place to mention my observation regarding dinner reservations. I have read so many times that reserving the day prior or even early in the day of would be sufficient, so the only reservations I made before leaving home were for our first evening and our first lunch. However, when we asked our front desk on Thursday afternoon to call Promesi Sposi for us, they were unable to secure reservations for either Thursday or Friday; so, if there’s any place that you particularly want to try, making reservations from home might be a good idea.
Aug 4th, 2013, 03:48 AM
#44
The drizzle grew fairly quickly, however, to a good downpour, so we find the glass museum, glad to be indoors with nobody trying to sell us something. I enjoyed this museum, with pieces from Etruscan to contemporary. It’s not someplace you’ll need to dedicate a full or even half a day to enjoy. I think we browsed around for maybe just a little over an hour.>>
I remember the glass museum all too well, as I was there with a dear friend whose only fault is the amount of time she can spend sight-seeing. We all have different speeds and hers is a lot slower than mine. consequently we spent a great deal longer than an hour in there, when an hour would have been quite enough for me. OTOH i could spend a looong time having lunch or dinner!
I remember the glass museum all too well, as I was there with a dear friend whose only fault is the amount of time she can spend sight-seeing. We all have different speeds and hers is a lot slower than mine. consequently we spent a great deal longer than an hour in there, when an hour would have been quite enough for me. OTOH i could spend a looong time having lunch or dinner!
Aug 4th, 2013, 06:20 AM
#45
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I'm guessing you're "feeling pretty sassy" again since you are "the one" who probably was not the one who had no "patience for wandering" and who has now mastered the "new fangled writin' machine". Too funny!! Keep it coming!!!
Aug 4th, 2013, 09:58 AM
#46
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I know what you mean, Ann. The pace of travel can be a difficult balance - even within oneself. For every loooong leisurely lunch enjoyed, one special sight is missed, and each museum or church visit sacrifices a beautiful respite at an outdoor cafe. Sigh. I can't help but think of the much-borrowed line, "World enough and time..." Oh, there's world enough all right, but will I have time?
...or one of my brother's favorite responses to anyone who tried to rush him, "Life is short, so we must proceed slowly."
John- ha ha! Glad you're reading and entertained. You must have done well on your reading comprehension tests as a kid. What is life if we can't laugh at ourselves?
...or one of my brother's favorite responses to anyone who tried to rush him, "Life is short, so we must proceed slowly."
John- ha ha! Glad you're reading and entertained. You must have done well on your reading comprehension tests as a kid. What is life if we can't laugh at ourselves?
Aug 4th, 2013, 11:15 AM
#47
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Monday 10/15
I tend to be an optimistic person, perhaps sometimes to the extreme- but that’s just how I live my life.
So, when the guidebooks wrote that aqua alta most frequently occurs November through January what I read was “It won’t happen in October.”
When I woke Monday morning to the warning sound of air horns, I immediately knew what it meant. I counted the bursts – one, two, three. Three? Isn’t that for the highest water? I jump up and open the shutters to look out onto our campo but see that it’s dry. Hmm…must mean something else, I think, and go back to bed. I know. Optimism can sometimes look like naiveté.
Another slow morning with another late start (Did I mention we stopped at the Irish Pub after dinner last night and watched a soccer game?) When we were just a few steps out the door, the door man rushed to catch us.
“The water is high…where do you go today?”
“St. Marks,” we tell him.
“San Marco is…” and he holds his hand just above his knee.
I asked him if other areas might be drier and okay for walking. He shrugged and held his palms up. He was trying to be so gentle with us, as though he feared we would blame him for the day of missed sightseeing. We thank him for his concern and let him know we will reconsider our plans.
We consider the situation for a moment and decide to go ahead with our plans and take the vaporetto to St. Marks. This is, after all, our last full day here. When we reach St. Marks the water has receded somewhat, but the adventurous are still wading about in mid-calf water. With just a few small dry areas available, most of the visitors are squeezed onto the elevated planks, and we foolishly follow. Glaciers move faster than this funeral march we've joined. At the first opportunity we abandon this plan and decide to walk down to the Naval Museum.
I tend to be an optimistic person, perhaps sometimes to the extreme- but that’s just how I live my life.
So, when the guidebooks wrote that aqua alta most frequently occurs November through January what I read was “It won’t happen in October.”
When I woke Monday morning to the warning sound of air horns, I immediately knew what it meant. I counted the bursts – one, two, three. Three? Isn’t that for the highest water? I jump up and open the shutters to look out onto our campo but see that it’s dry. Hmm…must mean something else, I think, and go back to bed. I know. Optimism can sometimes look like naiveté.
Another slow morning with another late start (Did I mention we stopped at the Irish Pub after dinner last night and watched a soccer game?) When we were just a few steps out the door, the door man rushed to catch us.
“The water is high…where do you go today?”
“St. Marks,” we tell him.
“San Marco is…” and he holds his hand just above his knee.
I asked him if other areas might be drier and okay for walking. He shrugged and held his palms up. He was trying to be so gentle with us, as though he feared we would blame him for the day of missed sightseeing. We thank him for his concern and let him know we will reconsider our plans.
We consider the situation for a moment and decide to go ahead with our plans and take the vaporetto to St. Marks. This is, after all, our last full day here. When we reach St. Marks the water has receded somewhat, but the adventurous are still wading about in mid-calf water. With just a few small dry areas available, most of the visitors are squeezed onto the elevated planks, and we foolishly follow. Glaciers move faster than this funeral march we've joined. At the first opportunity we abandon this plan and decide to walk down to the Naval Museum.
Aug 5th, 2013, 01:51 PM
#48
hanabilly - I have been fortunate enough to avoid being in Venice when there has been aqua alta but because of this seasonal misfortune, it is an excellent place for buying wellington boots, and very smart ones at that.
DD still uses the black shiny patent ones I bought about 8 years or so ago but they are beginning to wear out so i suppose that I need to go back and try to find that little shop on the nuova strada where I bought them!
looking forward to more....
DD still uses the black shiny patent ones I bought about 8 years or so ago but they are beginning to wear out so i suppose that I need to go back and try to find that little shop on the nuova strada where I bought them!
looking forward to more....
Aug 5th, 2013, 02:41 PM
#49
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"so i suppose that I need to go back and try to find that little shop on the nuova strada where I bought them!"
Well, if you must, you must. Is there no end to the sacrifices you will make?
We had just one more full day left, and we sort of maneuvered around the affected areas, so it worked out okay.
Honestly, I was not disappointed that the high water occurred while we were there. I can't say I was happy for it, as I know that it affects everyone there. But really, what is more endemic to Venice than the aqua alta? It seems this event was either especially high, or especially early, as I saw coverage on the web when I returned home.
Well, if you must, you must. Is there no end to the sacrifices you will make?
We had just one more full day left, and we sort of maneuvered around the affected areas, so it worked out okay.
Honestly, I was not disappointed that the high water occurred while we were there. I can't say I was happy for it, as I know that it affects everyone there. But really, what is more endemic to Venice than the aqua alta? It seems this event was either especially high, or especially early, as I saw coverage on the web when I returned home.
Aug 5th, 2013, 03:07 PM
#50
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The Naval Museum is another stop that doesn’t require a large chunk of time, and maybe not on every first-visit list. But, being that the history of Venice is largely the history of her Navy, I found it very much worth the time. And it is definitely worth the hefty entrance fee of 1.5 Euro!
We then walk back to San Marco and, still frustrated by the long line for the Basilica, decide to just go to the Doge’s Palace. Again, another fascinating stop; I would visit with a guide or as part of the tour next time, however, as I’m sure we missed a lot wandering about as we did. Sadly, we only admired St. Marks from outside on this visit. Granted, the exterior holds MUCH to admire, but missing the Basilica might be the only real disappointment of the trip. I know you can’t see and do everything in one trip, and every day my list of things to catch on the next trip grew longer and longer, but this one hurts a little. Tomorrow, though, it’s on to Bologna!
We then walk back to San Marco and, still frustrated by the long line for the Basilica, decide to just go to the Doge’s Palace. Again, another fascinating stop; I would visit with a guide or as part of the tour next time, however, as I’m sure we missed a lot wandering about as we did. Sadly, we only admired St. Marks from outside on this visit. Granted, the exterior holds MUCH to admire, but missing the Basilica might be the only real disappointment of the trip. I know you can’t see and do everything in one trip, and every day my list of things to catch on the next trip grew longer and longer, but this one hurts a little. Tomorrow, though, it’s on to Bologna!
Aug 5th, 2013, 05:57 PM
#51
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I googled the Naval Museum to see if it was the one we walked through to get to the America's Cup at the Arsenale last year - and it is. They had it roped off so all we could do was walk straight through it but the displays we could see on the ground floor were interesting - we wished we could have seen more. The article I read about the Museum used the word Serenissama twice and thanks to you I knew what it meant (I'm ashamed to say I had to look it up when I first started to read your report). So your report is educational as well as entertaining....
Aug 6th, 2013, 10:31 AM
#53
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Tuesday 10/16
After finishing up our packing we head back to San Marco once more- this time for just a little bit of shopping. We treat ourselves to breakfast at Café Florian. I forgot to mention that we had a light lunch there earlier in our stay. Many have posted here that they do not find this café worth the stop or the money, but I respectfully disagree. Yes, the prices are ridiculous, but the coffees are outstanding and the food was fresh, tasty, and beautifully presented. What is maddening is paying extortion prices and being served something stale and tasteless, as has happened more than I wish to remember. That is truly not the case here, but what is truly special is the setting. The room is beautiful in its own right, and with imagination you will sense the many many spectacular individuals who have been here before you.
Back at the hotel we check out and then enjoy lunch on the terrace. Naturally our last day here is the best weather we have had- just to make leaving that much more painful. The sun is sparkling on the water just a few feet away and turns the scene into a dreamy vision. All the taxis, vaporreti, and working vessels that keep Venice alive perform one more perfectly choreographed show for us until we have to break the spell and head for the train station.
After finishing up our packing we head back to San Marco once more- this time for just a little bit of shopping. We treat ourselves to breakfast at Café Florian. I forgot to mention that we had a light lunch there earlier in our stay. Many have posted here that they do not find this café worth the stop or the money, but I respectfully disagree. Yes, the prices are ridiculous, but the coffees are outstanding and the food was fresh, tasty, and beautifully presented. What is maddening is paying extortion prices and being served something stale and tasteless, as has happened more than I wish to remember. That is truly not the case here, but what is truly special is the setting. The room is beautiful in its own right, and with imagination you will sense the many many spectacular individuals who have been here before you.
Back at the hotel we check out and then enjoy lunch on the terrace. Naturally our last day here is the best weather we have had- just to make leaving that much more painful. The sun is sparkling on the water just a few feet away and turns the scene into a dreamy vision. All the taxis, vaporreti, and working vessels that keep Venice alive perform one more perfectly choreographed show for us until we have to break the spell and head for the train station.
Aug 6th, 2013, 11:13 AM
#54
Hanabilly - just as a matter of interest, how much DOES it cost for coffee, breakfast or lunch at Florian's?
i agree with you BTW - sometimes one doesn't mind paying for the ambience if the food and drink [and service] are of an equally high standard. what is galling is to pay a lot for rubbish. on our first visit to Venice we had a late evening drink at Florian's and then the extra charge for music was [from memory] approx £5 each but we didn't mind because the atmosphere was quite magical.
this was clearly a very long time ago.
i agree with you BTW - sometimes one doesn't mind paying for the ambience if the food and drink [and service] are of an equally high standard. what is galling is to pay a lot for rubbish. on our first visit to Venice we had a late evening drink at Florian's and then the extra charge for music was [from memory] approx £5 each but we didn't mind because the atmosphere was quite magical.
this was clearly a very long time ago.
Aug 6th, 2013, 11:57 AM
#55
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I will have to look back at our receipts to say for sure - I don't remember exactly. I'm thinking the two sandwiches and 2 coffees (one with liqueur) was around 40 Euro.
Also, despite being in the thick of a tourist spot, the waiters were pleasant and professional - just too busy to engage in chat.
Also, despite being in the thick of a tourist spot, the waiters were pleasant and professional - just too busy to engage in chat.
Aug 6th, 2013, 12:53 PM
#56
I will have to look back at our receipts to say for sure - I don't remember exactly. I'm thinking the two sandwiches and 2 coffees (one with liqueur) was around 40 Euro.>>
just an arm then, not an arm and a leg.
I love the professionalism of french and italian waiters.
just an arm then, not an arm and a leg.
I love the professionalism of french and italian waiters.
Aug 7th, 2013, 03:06 PM
#57
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Okay, let's hope this works out okay- first time using google+ for linking...you are my guinea pigs.
Some of our Venice photos - still working on editing.
https://plus.google.com/photos/10879...13368507412289
Some of our Venice photos - still working on editing.
https://plus.google.com/photos/10879...13368507412289
Aug 7th, 2013, 08:13 PM
#59
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Ann- yes, an arm- a full one, right up to the shoulder, but at least you'll be able to walk out on two feet!
John- if I remember correctly, there is even more upstairs than down, and some of my favorite items there; some globes (that always hold a fascination for me) and a ship's maidenhead that is just lovely. You might catch a peek in my next set of photos.
John- if I remember correctly, there is even more upstairs than down, and some of my favorite items there; some globes (that always hold a fascination for me) and a ship's maidenhead that is just lovely. You might catch a peek in my next set of photos.
