Hanabillies head to the Serenissima and beyond
Oct 15th, 2012, 05:19 PM
#21
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I know what you mean...I have teared up a few times in certain places when it was time to go. It's been years and years since Venice for me, but I am starting to feel that it won't be too much longer before I make it back to Venice. I truly only envy those who can afford to travel more often than we can. It is truly one of life's great pleasures. I look forward to reading more from your travels!
Oct 16th, 2012, 10:36 AM
#22
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Thanks for staying tuned. Time slips by - still days to fill in on Venice, and now we are already in Bologna after a beautiful train ride through the countryside. Garden after garden - what a treat. The day was absolutely stunning in Venice - the first sunny day, and maybe 65 degrees. For our farewell lunch we enjoyed a light pasta and proseco out on the terrace of our hotel, facing the canal...could have stayed there for hours.
Oct 17th, 2012, 08:21 AM
#23
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Back to Friday 10/12
After our quiet stroll back to the vaporetto we had a short wait for the shuttle back to Burano. We walked along some of the canals as the sun began to show itself and we went in search of someplace nice for lunch. I was a little surprised to see "restaurant row" on Burano. You never see that in the photos of this little island, making it easy to imagine it is only the colorful little houses and a deserted bridge or two. We walked past all the restaurants with the hawkers out front trying to bring us in, and we found Da Romano. I had read of this restaurant - mostly good reports, and I had hoped to eat here or at Ghatto Nero. It was getting towards the end of lunchtime,and we were able to get a table outdoors without a reservation. Our waiter spoke some English, and very graciously corrected my pronunciation on the very little Italian I tried. I noticed he was left-handed and indicated that I was too, and we high-fived to that.
After lunch, we enjoyed photographing some of the delightful houses, and watching the children heading home from school maneuver around the tourists-bikes, soccer balls, and all- this is just part of their daily life. The ferry ride back was a sleepy one. We stopped at Grom for gelato, where I chose once more the Nociolla (I doubt if I spelled that right, and I'm sure I didn't pronounce it right when i ordered it.) Between Ca d'Oro and Grom, I have to give the nod to Grom.
After our quiet stroll back to the vaporetto we had a short wait for the shuttle back to Burano. We walked along some of the canals as the sun began to show itself and we went in search of someplace nice for lunch. I was a little surprised to see "restaurant row" on Burano. You never see that in the photos of this little island, making it easy to imagine it is only the colorful little houses and a deserted bridge or two. We walked past all the restaurants with the hawkers out front trying to bring us in, and we found Da Romano. I had read of this restaurant - mostly good reports, and I had hoped to eat here or at Ghatto Nero. It was getting towards the end of lunchtime,and we were able to get a table outdoors without a reservation. Our waiter spoke some English, and very graciously corrected my pronunciation on the very little Italian I tried. I noticed he was left-handed and indicated that I was too, and we high-fived to that.
After lunch, we enjoyed photographing some of the delightful houses, and watching the children heading home from school maneuver around the tourists-bikes, soccer balls, and all- this is just part of their daily life. The ferry ride back was a sleepy one. We stopped at Grom for gelato, where I chose once more the Nociolla (I doubt if I spelled that right, and I'm sure I didn't pronounce it right when i ordered it.) Between Ca d'Oro and Grom, I have to give the nod to Grom.
Oct 19th, 2012, 07:21 AM
#24
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Saturday 10/13
Today was a day very much off the beaten path. Maybe not much info for the Venice traveler, but a truly wonderful day for us.
DH has a cousin who was stationed at Aviano Air Base for many years. He married a local girl born and raised in Pordenone, and stayed there after retiring. We took a short train ride there where they met us and showed us around their little town.
The main Corso is full of medieval homes, many with the frescos still intact or restored. Interspersed here and there is a modern building, replacing one damaged by bombing in WWII.It was fantastic having someone local share their knowledge of the area. One of her brothers is a fresco restorer, so I think her personal knowledge was that much more enhanced. What truly made it special for me, though, was her obvious pride in her town and its history. Along the corso she pointed out the house in which she was born, and on the front of it is a plaque showing that in this house Garibaldi once stayed! Born into history indeed!
After the stroll and some coffee and picture sharing at cousin's apartment, of course we had to meet Mama, who lives just across the street. Mama speaks no English, but she warmly welcomed us, happy to see some extended family of her son in law. She's tiny, and comes just up to the chest of my husband. When introduced, she gave him a big hug and patted his belly, declaring he is a "real American."
We have wine with more family - a brother, his wife, and children. They cannot join us for dinner, so the four of us enjoy pizza and beer before we head back on the evening train. It was such a fun day, and so great to meet someone with the local insight. But what was really special is DH's connecting with family that had been long since distanced.
Pordenone is a beautiful little town, and just a little over an hour from Venice by train (for less than 10Euro.) I would recommend it for anyone looking for a day out of the city.
Today was a day very much off the beaten path. Maybe not much info for the Venice traveler, but a truly wonderful day for us.
DH has a cousin who was stationed at Aviano Air Base for many years. He married a local girl born and raised in Pordenone, and stayed there after retiring. We took a short train ride there where they met us and showed us around their little town.
The main Corso is full of medieval homes, many with the frescos still intact or restored. Interspersed here and there is a modern building, replacing one damaged by bombing in WWII.It was fantastic having someone local share their knowledge of the area. One of her brothers is a fresco restorer, so I think her personal knowledge was that much more enhanced. What truly made it special for me, though, was her obvious pride in her town and its history. Along the corso she pointed out the house in which she was born, and on the front of it is a plaque showing that in this house Garibaldi once stayed! Born into history indeed!
After the stroll and some coffee and picture sharing at cousin's apartment, of course we had to meet Mama, who lives just across the street. Mama speaks no English, but she warmly welcomed us, happy to see some extended family of her son in law. She's tiny, and comes just up to the chest of my husband. When introduced, she gave him a big hug and patted his belly, declaring he is a "real American."
We have wine with more family - a brother, his wife, and children. They cannot join us for dinner, so the four of us enjoy pizza and beer before we head back on the evening train. It was such a fun day, and so great to meet someone with the local insight. But what was really special is DH's connecting with family that had been long since distanced.
Pordenone is a beautiful little town, and just a little over an hour from Venice by train (for less than 10Euro.) I would recommend it for anyone looking for a day out of the city.
Oct 19th, 2012, 08:05 AM
#25
Hanibilly - just found your TR and so glad that I did.
So pleased that you found the marble "curtains" - aren't they amazing? DS insisted that we went back specially for another look before we left Venice.
looking forward to more!
So pleased that you found the marble "curtains" - aren't they amazing? DS insisted that we went back specially for another look before we left Venice.
looking forward to more!
Oct 23rd, 2012, 07:12 AM
#28
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Thank you all for the nice comments. Just a quick check-in. We are now in the Umbria (and, sadly, the last) leg of our trip. Wifi is not available in our apartment. Instead, we sit at a table near the owners' home. Not quite so convenient. Right now, the mosquitoes are attacking, so perhaps early evening is not the best time to come out here.
Bologna was amazing, and Umbria is more than I could dream of! Enjoying it all,to say the least, and will write the details later.
PS. to John and others - thanks for turning me on to Donna Leon books...can't wait for something to keep me "in" Venice once I'm home. It could be a long winter! I love disappearing into a book, especially when it's placed someplace you love or would love to be!
Bologna was amazing, and Umbria is more than I could dream of! Enjoying it all,to say the least, and will write the details later.
PS. to John and others - thanks for turning me on to Donna Leon books...can't wait for something to keep me "in" Venice once I'm home. It could be a long winter! I love disappearing into a book, especially when it's placed someplace you love or would love to be!
Oct 23rd, 2012, 11:44 AM
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OK hanabilly - I have a comment for you and I have a question for you. First my comment - I'm really really jealous!!! Now my question - how were you ever able to leave your hotel in Venice? Since you did not provide a link for lazy people like myself (LOL) to look at your hotel, I was forced to use the old fashioned method - I googled it. OMG! Wow! Holy Cow! All I can do is repeat myself - I'm really really jealous! NICE!!! Can't wait to read more of your report and see you pics. BTW I think you will like Donna Leon's books - they really do transport me back to Venice.
Oct 26th, 2012, 07:07 AM
#30
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John- sorry about the links - I planned to include all the particulars upon return home. I'm sort of free-association typing now. A little more disjointed as the trip goes on. I guess I am out of my linear thinking mode. Blame it on Umbria!
Yes, the hotel in Venice was very beautiful and comfortable and it would have been hard to leave, if the bells weren't ringing or the vaporettos chugging by. We did not have a canal front room (they were vastly more expensive) but we were lucky enough to have a "sideways" view of the canal and the Rialto Market.
I was of course VERY sad to leave Venice, and could only shore up my spirits by: 1.) Beginning to plan my return trip, and 2.) Remembering that we were catching the train to Bologna and then on to Umbria.
Today is our last full day in Umbria and the first cloudy day since our arrival. The weather has been absolutely heavenly! Tomorrow we return our car in Orvieto, and then train to Rome for our return ;>(
Yes, the hotel in Venice was very beautiful and comfortable and it would have been hard to leave, if the bells weren't ringing or the vaporettos chugging by. We did not have a canal front room (they were vastly more expensive) but we were lucky enough to have a "sideways" view of the canal and the Rialto Market.
I was of course VERY sad to leave Venice, and could only shore up my spirits by: 1.) Beginning to plan my return trip, and 2.) Remembering that we were catching the train to Bologna and then on to Umbria.
Today is our last full day in Umbria and the first cloudy day since our arrival. The weather has been absolutely heavenly! Tomorrow we return our car in Orvieto, and then train to Rome for our return ;>(
Oct 27th, 2012, 05:43 AM
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Oops - I guess my attempt at humor did not come through. I only meant to poke fun at myself for being lazy. I really wish there was a "trying to be funny" font - I would have used it. Why does vacation time seem to go by twice as fast as regular time? Looking forward to your report!
Nov 6th, 2012, 05:36 PM
#32
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Well, finally, I am back. I've been having a tough time "decompressing" in the 10 days or so that we've been back. In the past, I seem to remember that flying west across all those time zones was easier than the easterly flight. A couple times I even went to work the very next day after an evening return with no ill effects but a little yawning come 4:00. This time was tough, and I found myself conking out by 7:30 some nights. Not to mention the added insult of switching our own domestic clocks this past weekend. Soldiering on...
Thanks for your patience - thank goodness I didn't use the old soap opera "Friday Hook" technique to keep your interest - you'd all be ready to mutiny by now.
Looking back over what I've already written, one thing I omitted was our trip to the Rialto Market. Saturday morning, Even though we wanted to catch an early train to Pordenone, I knew that Saturday would be the last day to catch the market (other than Tuesday, our departure day.) Plus, I wanted to pick up a little gift for the family, and not knowing their likes at all, I thought some nice fresh fruit would be welcomed.
We were just across the canal from the market. Even though we were right at a Traghetto stop, I didn't trust myself with my stability issues, so we opted for a vaporetto jog across the canal. This is probably something you wouldn't do if you didn't have a pass, and I was so glad we had one!
I love the markets in Europe, and each time I visit one, I regret not being in an apartment (next visit, I say to myself!) Resplendent with the most beautiful selection of vegetables, and incredible displays of fish and seafood, the prices looked very reasonable, and I could see how, if you're a cook, you could eat very well in Venice for a fraction of the cost. After the picture taking, gawking, and pointing, I picked up some pears and some Sicilian peaches and headed back across the canal. Oh, I also bought about a half kilo of what I believe was "minestrone" mix. The closest thing to fast food at the market - it was a delicious mix of chopped veggies - I bought it to have some raw veggies to munch on - one thing we had missed over the last few days. Perfect train ride crunchies.
Thanks for your patience - thank goodness I didn't use the old soap opera "Friday Hook" technique to keep your interest - you'd all be ready to mutiny by now.
Looking back over what I've already written, one thing I omitted was our trip to the Rialto Market. Saturday morning, Even though we wanted to catch an early train to Pordenone, I knew that Saturday would be the last day to catch the market (other than Tuesday, our departure day.) Plus, I wanted to pick up a little gift for the family, and not knowing their likes at all, I thought some nice fresh fruit would be welcomed.
We were just across the canal from the market. Even though we were right at a Traghetto stop, I didn't trust myself with my stability issues, so we opted for a vaporetto jog across the canal. This is probably something you wouldn't do if you didn't have a pass, and I was so glad we had one!
I love the markets in Europe, and each time I visit one, I regret not being in an apartment (next visit, I say to myself!) Resplendent with the most beautiful selection of vegetables, and incredible displays of fish and seafood, the prices looked very reasonable, and I could see how, if you're a cook, you could eat very well in Venice for a fraction of the cost. After the picture taking, gawking, and pointing, I picked up some pears and some Sicilian peaches and headed back across the canal. Oh, I also bought about a half kilo of what I believe was "minestrone" mix. The closest thing to fast food at the market - it was a delicious mix of chopped veggies - I bought it to have some raw veggies to munch on - one thing we had missed over the last few days. Perfect train ride crunchies.
Nov 6th, 2012, 05:54 PM
#33
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I forgot to add our funny Friday meal. After we returned from Burano and our nice lunch there, our afternoon gelato stop, we headed back to the hotel - very likely to call it a night. However, after a little rest, we decided to head out for a drink and many a little something to munch on. I was thinking we'd head to a cichetti bar, but all we passed were full to the brim. We stopped at a pizza place with outdoor seating. I was pretty sure this would be a mistake, but by now we were thirsty and a little hungry, and we really didn't feel like putting in the mileage to search out something else.
We ended up with a very nice bottle of Chianti, and we ordered just on Margarita pizza to share. The mediocrity and disappointment of the pizza was surpassed only by the surly and petulant staff. The owner, who took our pizza order, used any delay time in the ordering process (and we and our fellow diners gave him many) to yell - yes, YELL - at the wait staff as well as the kitchen help back inside. We were afraid he was going to have a heart attack before we were able to finish our wine and get out of there. No such drama, though. I think this was the only experience we had of really bad service anywhere in our trip. Mostly it was warm and gracious, sometimes a little aloof, but only this place qualified as "bad." It was kind of funny, though, and I'm glad we were there, if only for a little contrast.
We ended up with a very nice bottle of Chianti, and we ordered just on Margarita pizza to share. The mediocrity and disappointment of the pizza was surpassed only by the surly and petulant staff. The owner, who took our pizza order, used any delay time in the ordering process (and we and our fellow diners gave him many) to yell - yes, YELL - at the wait staff as well as the kitchen help back inside. We were afraid he was going to have a heart attack before we were able to finish our wine and get out of there. No such drama, though. I think this was the only experience we had of really bad service anywhere in our trip. Mostly it was warm and gracious, sometimes a little aloof, but only this place qualified as "bad." It was kind of funny, though, and I'm glad we were there, if only for a little contrast.
Nov 7th, 2012, 01:34 PM
#34
I love the markets in Europe, and each time I visit one, I regret not being in an apartment (next visit, I say to myself!) Resplendent with the most beautiful selection of vegetables, and incredible displays of fish and seafood, the prices looked very reasonable, and I could see how, if you're a cook, you could eat very well in Venice for a fraction of the cost>>
hanabilly, we did rent an apartment in Venice, and though I'm not sure we actually saved that much, we ate well when we ate in. Because it was Easter sunday while we were there [we arrived on good friday] we hit the market early on the saturday morning, and bought some lovely lamb to roast [with a large spring of rosemary thrown in] some potatoes [did we want them to boil or to roast?] and various veggies. with the wine we bought from the shop round the corner that will fill your plastic bottle from their vat, and the strawberries we had for dessert, we had a real easter feast. I suppose that we ate in 1/2 of the time, and in restaurants the rest.
hanabilly, we did rent an apartment in Venice, and though I'm not sure we actually saved that much, we ate well when we ate in. Because it was Easter sunday while we were there [we arrived on good friday] we hit the market early on the saturday morning, and bought some lovely lamb to roast [with a large spring of rosemary thrown in] some potatoes [did we want them to boil or to roast?] and various veggies. with the wine we bought from the shop round the corner that will fill your plastic bottle from their vat, and the strawberries we had for dessert, we had a real easter feast. I suppose that we ate in 1/2 of the time, and in restaurants the rest.
Nov 7th, 2012, 01:51 PM
#35
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Best of both worlds. I do love restaurant eating - from researching, seeking them out, and discovering new delights, but I enjoy cooking as well. (Not so crazy about doing the dishes, though.)
In Umbria we were staying out in the country, and really didn't want to drive "home" in the dark, and especially not after enjoying the local wine! We would eat a nice meal out at noon with just a glass or mezzo of wine, and eat a simple meal or snack in the evening. Worked perfectly.
In Umbria we were staying out in the country, and really didn't want to drive "home" in the dark, and especially not after enjoying the local wine! We would eat a nice meal out at noon with just a glass or mezzo of wine, and eat a simple meal or snack in the evening. Worked perfectly.
Aug 2nd, 2013, 11:13 AM
#36
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Well, now nearly 8 months after our return, I am back to complete this report. Wow, I could have had a baby in the time it took me to get back here...maybe thirty or so years ago, anyway! No babies, but we have welcomed a new member to our household. Just weeks after our return, my father in law passed away. My dear mother in law is unable to live alone, so for now she is here with us. We are enjoying having her here, but we do find that the rhythm of our lives has changed and priorities do get adjusted.
Aug 2nd, 2013, 12:31 PM
#37
hanabilly - welcome back. I'm looking forward to your finishing it soon.
but we do find that the rhythm of our lives has changed and priorities do get adjusted.>>
what a lovely way of putting it.
but we do find that the rhythm of our lives has changed and priorities do get adjusted.>>
what a lovely way of putting it.
Aug 2nd, 2013, 06:17 PM
#38
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hanabilly - it's nice to see your TR pop up - I was hoping you would come back to finish it. We want to visit parts of Umbria during our trip next year so I'm really looking forward to your report.
Aug 3rd, 2013, 12:52 PM
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Okay, my re-entry isn't starting well. Yesterday I typed 3 or 4 paragraphs for today’s post. Using a smallish laptop I am not completely comfortable with, I performed a magic act and somehow it all disappeared. Grrrr. There was not even any wine involved, which is my usual excuse for silly mistakes. This one's all on me.
