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Grindelwald v. Lauterbrunnen - and where to stay

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Grindelwald v. Lauterbrunnen - and where to stay

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Old Oct 24th, 2007, 03:04 PM
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Grindelwald v. Lauterbrunnen - and where to stay

Hi all. We will be in this area next July and are looking into hotels.

We are debating b/w Lauterbrunnen and Grindelwald. We will have a car, so transportation by train isn't an issue.

We are family of 4 and know that it isn't easy to get hotel rooms for 4.

Any suggestions?
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Old Oct 26th, 2007, 12:01 PM
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I faced the exact same question this past summer when going to the Bernese Oberland with our two children, 9 and 4 years. I did a lot of research on Fodors and the web and am happy to pass on our experience.
After much research we opted for Wengen, just above Laterbrunnen and loved it. I would definitely give Laterbrunnen a miss. No charm, just a busy strip on the motorway to the end of the valley. This is a resort which is past its best. Also visited Murren which is charming, although more remote and quite quiet. Nice for a daytrip, as you need to go through the village on the way to Shilthorn (i.e. the Piz Gloria Restaurant from James Bond). Definitely worth a visit on a sunny day, and much cheaper than the Jungfrau trip.
Wengen is on the line up to the Jungfrau, car free and has beatiful views of waterfalls and the Jungfrau.
We stayed at the Alpenrose in a family room for four. Wonderful family run hospitality, lovely large open lounge area for relaxing after dinner or during the day. If you want a pool, the Beausite Hotel is a good option, although quite pricey. Went in to have a look and seems nice, although not as homely as the Alpenrose.
We didn't visit Grindelwald, but other visitors at the hotel went first to the Alpenrose and then took the train from Wengen down to Grindelwald for a further four days. Different walks and bigger town, although not car free and not as charming.
Lots to do in Wengen.There is an open air swimming pool, public tennis courts, lots of walks, train and cable car rides.
I know that you will love Wengen and I would encourage you to look further into that option. There is a big carpark in Laterbrunnen, across the road from the train. The train leaves several times per hour and only takes about 15 minutes to get to Wengen. The ride is very pretty and pleasant.

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Old Oct 26th, 2007, 12:06 PM
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karens, you already have a couple of responses to your previous question on the same topic:

http://fodors.com/forums/threadselec...p;tid=35085172
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Old Oct 26th, 2007, 01:03 PM
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yes, I know betty, but when I posted this, there was actually no Swiss responses on the other thread.

Veyrier - thanks so much for your insights. Did you have a car? I just thought with a car, Wengen would be more of a hassle? I was unaware of the carpark, so that's good to know.

I've done a lot of research overall, but little on the actual Berner Oberland area. I know I want to see the waterfalls in the L. Valley, and visit Wengen. What else di you like in this area? Did you visit Murren, and was it OK to get to to from Wengen?
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Old Oct 27th, 2007, 02:10 AM
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Hi Karen,
We took the Golden Pass Railway trip from Geneva to Interlaken and then connected with the local train to Laterbrunnen and then just hopped across the platform to the Wengen train.
We went to the Trembelback Falls in the Laterbrunnen valley. Spectacular! Save this trip for a rainy day as you are inside caves and don't need sunshine. The falls are a 7 minute bus or car ride up the road from Laterbrunnen.
Took a day trip to Shilthorn, which was also terrific. To get there, we took the train down to Laterbrunnen and then the cablecar up to the ridge above Laterbrunnen. This connects to a little train which travels above the valley to Murren. You then walk thru Murren to another cable car which takes you up to 10,000 feet. We had lunch in the restaurant while revolves and took in the spectacular views of the Jungrau, EIger mountains, and could also see all the way to Interlaken. We had a walk around Murren on the way down. Quaint village, but quite quiet for a family, although there was a playpark and a sports complex.
We also took the cablecar from Wengen up to Manlichen to do the Kleinschigen walk. We took a picnic and stopped halfway. At the other end we took the train back down to Wengen. Even our 4 year old did this walk!
You can also travel up to the Jungfrau in about 1.5 hours, but as we had done Shilthorn, we plan to save that trip for our next visit.
We also enjoyed an easy and beautiful walk to Marys Cafe and onward to the end of the ridge. I've not seen it mentioned on Fodors, but it was really beautiful and easy for the children. There is a paved path most of the way, past waterfalls and traditional Swiss houses , on the way out of Wengen. As you come around a bend, the Jungfrau hits you in the face! Breathtaking on a sunny day and a really easy walk, about an hour. We stopped for delicious homemade crumble and cake at Mary's Cafe, en route.
The children played tennis and mini/golf. You can also rent bikes and drive down the path from Manlichen to Grindelwald, but our youngest isn't ready for this thrill yet!
We spent four nights in Wengen with the VonAllmens, who run a wonderful family hotel. Margaret, Peter's wife, is Scottish and came to Wengen for a summer job and never went back. There eldest daughter also works in the Hotel. They are all so helpful and full of ideas and info. to fill your stay.
Gimmelwald is meant to be another unspoilt village, but didn't have enough time to get there.
Interlaken is also within easy reach, about 45 minutes from Wengen, changing trains in Laterbrunnen.
No place in the valley is very far from Wengen. The trains run very regularly, and the hotel staff will have all the timetables and info.
Happy planning!
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Old Oct 27th, 2007, 04:30 AM
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I agree with Veyrier about that walk (I think it is the Staubach bench walk -- can't remember the exact name in Swiss). I stumbled on it taking a little stroll after dinner from the Alpenrose. Just continue past the house with the animals next door to the Alpenrose and merge into the main road.

We were also very happy with the Alpenrose and Wengen. We drove there and used the parking garage. very easy.

I think Alpenrose also has a chalet that is right next door and offers more space. not sure if it is for larger groups, though.

For anyone who stays in the Alpenrose, the south facing rooms are well worth the extra expense, as they're the ones with the view.
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Old Oct 29th, 2007, 02:58 PM
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Hi karens,

I agree that you should stay in Wengen to get the best ambiance and views, and yes to stay at the wonderful Alpenrose Hotel. I've stayed there two times.

I wonder if you would reconsider driving -- especially since you're considering staying in a car-free town. Most of the places you'll want to get to (Muerren, Jungfraujoch, Schilthorn, etc) do not allow cars either. Your car will likely just sit in the car park accummulating parking fees and rental fees.

It's really incredibly convenient and easy to use Swiss trains. There are train stations in both Zurich and Geneva airports, so it's good right from the start. You can wheel a luggage cart all the way from baggage claim to the train track! Also, children under 16 travel for free on the trains.

If you'd like to give the trains a try, we'd be very happy to give you a hand. Anyway, you can research the train schedules and fares at the Swiss rail site,

www.rail.ch

And you can research some Passes at

www.swisstravelsystem.com

Good luck!

s
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Old Oct 29th, 2007, 04:44 PM
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Thanks, swandav. Our itinerary is Munich-Salzburg-Fussen-Lauterbrunnen/Berner Oberland and then home through Zurich. Since we are traveling with our 2 kids, we wanted the convenience of a car, that's why we're not doing the train thing.
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Old Oct 30th, 2007, 01:49 AM
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Hi again,

I don't understand how two kids drives you (!) to a car???

s
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Old Oct 30th, 2007, 02:15 AM
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Old Oct 30th, 2007, 05:14 AM
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I was going to post a repsonse but Veyrier said what I would have said. We stayed in Wengen with oru 2 children and loved it. It's one of those places that I like to think we'll get back to some day. We were touring Germany, Austria and Switzerland, and had a car. We left the car at the parking garage in Lauterbrunnen.
We went to Grindelwald. It's a very nice town but we preferred the no-car, no-tour bus ambience of Wengen. Lauterbrunnen is just a transportation hub at the end of the road.
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Old Oct 30th, 2007, 06:36 AM
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I think a car gives you flexibility, even if the trains are good in Switzerland.

We did a similar trip last year to Germany and Switzerland but we stayed in Lauterbrunnen. Instead of taking the bus to Stechelberg station for the cable car to Schilthorn, we just drove. No big deal, there is a large car park. We also were able to drive around Thunersee and stop whenever we wanted for photo ops, etc.
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Old Oct 30th, 2007, 08:08 AM
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Switzerland has wonderful transportation options and they all connect -- right on time.

How old are your 2 children? Can they carry small backpacks? I think a train is more comfortable than a car for children. More space, don't have to be strapped in, toilet at the end of the car. And the kids would probably love a train ride.

All the places you want to go are easily accessed by train. (And bus to Neuschwanstein if that's why you're going to Fussen; Swiss buses are great.)
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Old Oct 30th, 2007, 03:39 PM
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Mimar, I think some folks are just car folks and some are train folks. We are the former, altho I'm sure there is nothing wrong with the latter. I still like being able to stop where and when I want to. My husband is really into photography so he likes being able to stop and take photos when he sees something interesting.
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Old Oct 30th, 2007, 03:48 PM
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About the car -- have you *tried* the train? How do you know you're not a train person if you haven't tried it?

A train is very flexible, especially in Switzerland, where they run many times an hour. You can print the schedules ahead of time and get to the station just on time.

You can stop, get off, take photos, grab a bite or a cup of coffee, then jump on the next train. No getting lost, no worried about having wine with lunch, no worried about parking.

It's SO much nicer to people watch on the trains(school kids, matrons with weekly shopping, young women with babies, older couples out hiking, and young sophisticates with Gucci bags . . . ) than to be isolated inside a hermetic vehicle.

And especially in the BO, where, what, 90 percent of the tourist destinations do not allow cars?

Though I'm an American, I really really don't get this love affair with the auto.

s
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Old Oct 30th, 2007, 04:05 PM
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Swandav, I don't either! One of the reasons I love Switzerland so much is the wonderful transport system---trains, boats, cablecars.

Karens---how old are your kids? Children 15 and under ride free on Swiss trains (with a parent).

I'd say use a car in Germany, but train (and boat, and cablecar) in Switzerland,
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Old Oct 31st, 2007, 12:50 AM
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If you are staying in the Berner Oberland only, do not get a car. The transportation in Switzerland is outstanding and you'll be hiking and walking more than in the car.

Consider renting a holiday flat (ferienwohnung). If you're staying a week, this will definitely be the most cost effective option.

To drive a car or ride the train in Switzerland?

A train is more advantageous when:
- you're visiting the main sites only
- are afraid of driving on our tight roads
- are travelling on a budget
- you get car sick on windy roads
- everyone wants to see the sights (and not just the driver)

A car is more advantageous when:
- you're visiting people living in small towns or in the country
- you're visiting small towns and don't have much time
- you want to drive over the passes
- you're changing hotels almost daily and have lots of luggage

Hopefully others can add to this list.
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Old Oct 31st, 2007, 01:51 AM
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Hi schuler,

In this rare case, I disagree with your post. I almost always visit small villages and towns (Villeneuve, Morges, Kuesnacht, Yvoire in France, Weggis, Brig, Chateau d'Oex, Saanen, Zweisimmen, Zuoz, Guarda . . .) and think they are wonderfully connected by train, bus, or ferry. That's the beauty of the Swiss system -- it goes everywhere!

s
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Old Oct 31st, 2007, 01:57 AM
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Karens:

I think the reasons you stated for using a car make great sense, and we LOVE European train travel.

And no-one's mentioned the COST FACTOR: we're planning a trip similar to yours (Mosel/Rhine, France to Lyon, back through Switzerland), and I'm finding the car, even including gas, etc. to be about half the price of the train travel, and that's just for two people.

Besides, for a photographer, being able to get off at the next train stop won't help when there's no simple way to get back to the point he saw the shot he wants.

You'll have a great time whatever transport you use.
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Old Oct 31st, 2007, 02:00 AM
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Hi Swandav,

No problem. But I'm thinking of places like Illgau, Alosen, Bennau, Oberiberg and other villages in my area. They are all accessible by bus once an hour but if you're on a tight schedule, it can be a problem.

Your advice on this board is invaluable and I'm convinced you know more about Switzerland than I do. I always enjoy reading your posts.
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