Go Back  Fodor's Travel Talk Forums > Destinations > Europe
Reload this Page >

Grindelwald Last Week in May

Search

Grindelwald Last Week in May

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Mar 9th, 2006, 05:21 AM
  #1  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 11,244
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Grindelwald Last Week in May

I will be arriving in Grindelwald late on a Saturday afternoon, and departing the following Saturday morning for Lucerne, staying in Weggis. So, this gives me basically 6 days to tour the area.

The plan is to tour, take 's, eat, drink , take in the ambiance of the area, and doing some non-strenuous hikes. No churches/museums this trip.

What from the following list can I reasonably do without running from pillar to post. What would you add/subtract from this list. What's the best and the wurst (pun intended).

Murren
Wengen
Gimmelwald
First
Kleine Scheidegg
Lauterbrunen
Jungfraujoch
Schlichtorn
Spiez (take boat to/from Thun)
Brienz
Short hikes to?

Not trying to cram 10 lbs. into a 5 lb. bag, how would you prioritize, and did I leave anything off this list that's a must do/see.

Budman is offline  
Old Mar 9th, 2006, 05:47 AM
  #2  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,345
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hi Budman,

Looks terrific! You've got everything I can think of. Unfortunately, because I usually ski there, I don't have any good hikes to suggest. But there are dozons of posts here on hikes, so just do a text search (or search the www.grindelwald.ch or www.wengen.ch pages).

When are you going? Peak of summer? Spring? Fall? Anyway, it'll be lovely.

Have fun!

s
swandav2000 is online now  
Old Mar 9th, 2006, 05:49 AM
  #3  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,345
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Oh. Sorry. "Last Week of May"; you'd think I would have read that!

s
swandav2000 is online now  
Old Mar 9th, 2006, 06:00 AM
  #4  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 11,244
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Any recommendations for lunch/dinner would also be welcomed, i.e., a nice place on the lake in Thun or overlooking views in the higher elevations.

Not looking for 4/5* 3-4 course meals - just soup/salad/wurst for lunch. Maybe splurge a little for dinner once or twice.
Budman is offline  
Old Mar 9th, 2006, 06:18 AM
  #5  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,345
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hi Again,

I'm a total bust for you! I usually take half-board at the hotels and eat lunches up on the mountains during the ski day. I did have a fabulous lunch in Wengen once, but haven't been able to locate the name of the restaurant (it was in a hotel).

A friend of mine who lives in Zurich recommended the restaurant "Schuh" in Interlaken to me, but I didn't think it was much.

I'm sure others will have good recommendations. Just wanted you to know I wasn't ignoring this --

s
swandav2000 is online now  
Old Mar 9th, 2006, 06:22 AM
  #6  
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 10,881
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Hi Budman,

We ate in Grindelwaldblick up on the Kleine Scheidegg. It was very good. If you are planning an easy hike, go from Männlichen to Kleine Scheidegg and have lunch or dinner there.
kleeblatt is offline  
Old Mar 9th, 2006, 06:43 AM
  #7  
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 711
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Go to grindelwald.com and follow the prompts including the "E" (upper right) for the English version. Go to the summer version as it includes hiking suggestions for the entire BO region ect.. Have a nice trip!!! Mike
barbmike is offline  
Old Mar 9th, 2006, 06:48 AM
  #8  
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 711
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Another suggestion, purchase the 6 day summer hiking pass for around $150-175 as it includes the entire Interlaken/Grindelwald/Wengen/Murren/mountain areas. I've used it, and it's great. Mike
barbmike is offline  
Old Mar 9th, 2006, 11:58 AM
  #9  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 11,244
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks for the link. $150 for a 6-day hiking pass? I didn't know they charged for hikes. I'm not going to do anywhere near that much hiking. I'm thinking that the 10-day 1/2 fare card/pass will probably be the way to go.

There were numerous hikes and descriptions on that website. Instead of downloading & printing, I could probably get the information at the Grindelwald tourist office when I get there?
Budman is offline  
Old Mar 9th, 2006, 12:43 PM
  #10  
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,518
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I don't know what the hiking conditions will be at the end of May (there may be snow on the higher areas), but with a train/lift pass, you could have a really fun day and hit seven of the things on your list:

Ride the gondola from Grindelwald up to Mannlichen (30 minutes), and hike along the ridge from there to Kleine Scheidegg (#1). In the alternative, you could take the train from Grindelwald up to Kleine Scheidegg.

AT KS you can catch the train up to the Jungfraujoch (#2)(this will cost you even if you have a pass).

Back at KS, you can either walk down to Wengen (#3), or take the train. From Wengen take the train down to Lauterbrunnen (#4).

From Lauterbrunnen, you can do a loop: walk or postbus to Stechelberg, gondola to Gimmelwald (#5) and/or Schilthorn (#6); from Gimmelwald walk to Mürren (#7), and catch the funicular back down to Lauterbrunnen. From Lauterbrunnen take the train back to Grindelwald (via Zweilütschinen, not back over the ridge).

Now---in reality, you can't do ALL of this and have any time to look around and enjoy.

But for a reasonable plan, assuming you have good weather, you could break it into two days: the Mannlichen-Kleine Scheidegg--Jungfraujoch on one day (with a walk down to Wengen if there's time), and over to Lauterbrunnen and the Stechelberg-Gimmelwald-Mürren loop the next.

The First lift is at the other end of Grindelwald and would be a separate, half-day excursion. The walk out to the Bachalpsee is lovely and not strenuous.

So that's three of your days there. I'm afraid I can't help with Spietz, Thun, or the lakes.

Wherever you go, there's good Swiss wine to be found on the way.
enzian is offline  
Old Mar 9th, 2006, 12:53 PM
  #11  
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,518
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I think that summer "hiking pass" must include the lifts and trains in the area. I've done a lot of hiking there and never seen such a thing. The hiking itself is free; you only need a map not a pass. And yes, the tourist infomation office should have a nice hiking guide. I could suggest some additional hikes here but, as I said, I don't know what will be open and snow-free in late May; I've only been there in August.
enzian is offline  
Old Mar 9th, 2006, 01:59 PM
  #12  
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 10,287
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes on 2 Posts
Budman, I am sure you will enjoy Switzerland, or as I like to call it, the Cha-Ching capital of the world. We loved our 3 days there in 2003, but your wallet does take a hit from trains and gondolas, but that's why they invented beer, eh?

We did take the early morning to the Jungfraujoch (if you get their early enough and leave early enough there is a discount). Be sure to walk out on the ice and fall on your ass. It's a sure way to get a laugh from your wife.

Once back in Grindelwald, I then gave Tracy an opportunity to catch her breath, and we took the gondola to Mannlichen (had lunch at the top) and walked to Kleine Scheidegg. Easy hike with great panoramas. We then took train back to Grindelwald.

If you have a really overcast day, go to Trummelbach Falls, which are actually inside the mountain. We also took gondola to Murren that same day. If it's really too overcast to go up to Murren and Gimmelwald that day, there is a nice walking path by the river.

On our final day, we took the gondola to First and walked to Bachalpsee, where a cow tried to eat Tracy's lunch. Quite a moooving experience. Lots of great views on that hike, too.

We had good (and relatively inexpensive) fondue in the restaurant at Hotel Eiger in town.

Where are you staying?

Have fun.


maitaitom is offline  
Old Mar 9th, 2006, 02:05 PM
  #13  
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,518
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
You can take some of the sting out of the "Cha-ching" with the right train pass. At least you feel the pain only once, when you buy it.
enzian is offline  
Old Mar 9th, 2006, 02:10 PM
  #14  
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
My husband and I love this area, especially in May, when the first spring flowers are blooming. Your list sounds terrific, but we would add two suggestions. From the village of Wilderswil, take the rack and pinion railway up to Schynige Platte with its Alpine Garden and hiking trails. Even if you don't take one of the hikes, the views along the way and especially at the top are utterly stunning. I'll never forget the first time our train rounded a corner and there before us was the Lauterbrunnen Valley with the Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau, to name just a few, spread out before us. Words can't begin to describe the visceral impact of that panorama. My husband had to literally drag me back to the train when it was time to leave.

Second, for an easy hike with great scenery (and the congenial companionship of the occasional milk cow) take the funicular from Lauterbrunnen up to Grutschalp and walk to Murren. Level, easy path with bubbling brooks and Heidi-esque scenery every step of the way. You can also take the train from Grutschalp to Murren, but walking is way more fun.

One day, we started in the morning with this walk, then caught the cable car in Murren and went up to the Schilthorn, came back down to Murren for lunch, took another cable car down to Stechelberg, visited the Trammelbach Falls, then strolled through the valley (flat, level paths) to Lauterbrunnen and were back at our hotel in Wengen in time for dinner. A full day, but not a particularly strenuous one, as we stopped many places along the way.

Have a wonderful trip!
dmcwriter is offline  
Old Mar 9th, 2006, 02:32 PM
  #15  
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
One more tip--several people have mentioned walking back down from Kleine Scheidegg to Wengen. A beautiful walk, to be sure. We heard, and saw, several avalanches rumbling down the surrounding mountains. But if you have any knee problems at all, or even the merest HINT of a knee problem, you might consider riding the train down.

I remembered reading in Rick Steve's book that this path with its long, unrelenting descent is hard on the knees, but I didn't know I HAD any problems until we came down this trail. By the time we got half-way down, I was in so much pain, I literally turned around and walked down backwards for stretches at a time to get some relief, with my husband calling out course corrections and potential hazards. I felt like an idiot, but the only other option was crawling! Great scenery though, very peaceful--even backwards.

My husband said that's probably why we met mostly Swiss walking UP the trails (including the Eiger Trail) and riding back down on the trains, instead of the other way around!
dmcwriter is offline  
Old Mar 9th, 2006, 02:53 PM
  #16  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 11,244
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
WOW! That's exactly what I've been looking for. Thanks all. Great help. Don't stop.

maitaitom, we're staying at an apartment in Chalet Alta. That should take a little of the "Cha-Ching" out of it. We can eat in for breakfast and some meals, and wine & beer in the refrig.

I'm thinking the Half Fare Card for 99 SFr would probably work best. I got a headache checking all the prices on all the modes of transportation just to figure out the break-even point. I'll save receipts and learn a lesson for next time or someone else.

I want to go to Thun and thought the boat from Spiez would be nice. Could do two places in one day and cruise on the river. Anybody done that? Anything other than the Castle to visit in Thun? Lunch on the lake?

My biggest problem on this entire trip will be getting Mrs. Budman in one of those gondolas. I'll have to blindfold her and walk her on.
Budman is offline  
Old Mar 9th, 2006, 02:58 PM
  #17  
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,518
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
DMCwriter---you are absolutely right about that trail down to Wengen; I only mentioned it because Budman said he wanted "non-strenuous" hikes, meaning not uphill. But I'm with you---I love the hiking in Switzerland because we can hike UP and ride down.

I was going to mention the nearly-level walk from the top of the Pfingstegg lift out to Stieregg. However, I see the route has been changed due to a landslide, so I know nothing about the new trail. It's worth taking a look at the photos, though (especially the outhouse perched on the edge of the cliff): http://www.walkingswitzerland.com/wa...s01/w009.shtml

The walk from Mannlichen to Kleine Scheidegg enjoys substantially the same views as the Wengon one (and more), and it's not at all steep. Plus riding the gondola up makes a nice variation on taking the (crowded) train up from Grindelwald.

enzian is offline  
Old Mar 9th, 2006, 03:03 PM
  #18  
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,254
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hello Budman,

You've got a lot of great suggestions here for hikes. This area is literally a hiker's paradise. And yes, the tourist information inside the train station office has everything you need. They speak perfect English and are very patient explaining everything to the endless tourists.

I do, however, have to chuckle when it is mentioned that the hike from the top of First to the lake. I don't know what shape you're in, but I don't think I've ever huffed and puffed more on an easy hike than that. Straight uphill, IMHO, for a large part of it. Of course, the Swiss were passing us right and left while we were gasping for breath. And of course, DH wanted to take "this trail" down, we lost the trail markers halfway down, and 4 hours later found our chalet. Next day my legs wouldn't move, but all the more time for chocolate to soothe my aches!
(And also at First, you can take the scooters downhill instead of the buckets. Pretty neat experience.)

The station has a great television that shows the weather up on top the mountains, so keep this in mind when deciding how far up to go that day. Jungfraujoch is really expensive, and I've been up there when it was a whiteout. Not good at all. So if you want to go there, make it a clear day.

Same for Schilthorn. Views of the glaciers are terrific on the terrace, but the price is not justified on a cloudy day. If you do make it up, though, take time for a Coupe Denmark or similar ice cream in the revolving restaurant.

Planning where you eat is easy. If you take the Mannlichen to Kleine Scheidegg hike (1-1/2 hrs., mostly very flat) in the morning, have lunch at Kleine Scheidegg in the outdoor restaurant - wurst & rosti - the best in town! Lots of beer there too. They cook it outside in these huge kettles. Yum! For a treat, try the apfelstrudel with the vanilla sauce for dessert. Yum yum!

You will find that most Swiss hike uphill. They actually think that's easier. Not me. I'm a downhill hiker. The hiking map gives the elevations, so you can decide which is best for you.

The waterfall at Lauterbrunnen is really cool. You walk up hundreds of steps to the top and are literally inside the mountain with the water rushing by. Once back down, there's a nice cafe right next to the parking lot where you can find some refreshment.

In Grindelwald, there's 2 grocery stores, Migros and Co-op. The Co-op is bigger so there is more selection. We liked to stop there after our day's hiking, pick up some freshly baked bread, wine, cheese, go back to the chalet, and sit outside on the balcony enjoying the views. Then we'd be ready for dinner in an hour or two.

Most of the shops and stores in town are closed on Sundays, so keep this in mind when you need groceries.

Are you going to do cooking? The Co-op has a great line of their own products, and we especially like the Rosti mit speck (bacon), fry it up in a pan like hashbrowns and serve with some schnitzel you get from the meat counter. Have a homemade Swiss meal in your own apartment! And don't forget the Nutella to put on your breakfast croissants. (Get the croissants fresh in the mornings at the bakery just after the traffic circle - so fresh!)

There's quite a number of good restaurants in town, pricey but good. Probably about 30 CHF for a 3-course meal, 15-20 CHF for pizza or wurst and fries. The Derby Hotel restaurant (right at the train station) has a nice menu and good food, good salad bar, friendly staff. Try the sliced pot roast with gravy with gratin potatoes - delicious. There's Uncle Tom's pizza about 10 minutes down the street from the station, very popular. Across the street from Uncle Tom's is an Italian place (can't remember the name), that's got a great grilled lamb platter as well as pizza and pasta.

The larger hotels cater to the big tour groups, so we haven't eaten there. There's quite a number of smaller places mostly attached to hotels that line the street. They've got outdoor seating, and they post their menus.

Oh, I almost forgot. Take the Pfingstegg lift up (short ride). You'll have fun on the alpine slide. For a couple bucks, you ride down on this little toboggan with terrific views of the valley.

And there's the Gletscherschut (sp?) at the end of town. A cool walk through the ravine on a catwalk built into the side of the mountain. Don't go right after you eat, though, if you get queasy.

You'll love Weggis. The boat rides are so relaxing. We like to pay the extra $$ to ride first class (upper deck). The main deck gets really crowded. Try to go when they're serving a meal, especially at sunset. So beautiful. Love all the houses along the lakeside.

I look forward to hearing all about your travels through Switzerland.

Auf weidersehen!
kopp is offline  
Old Mar 9th, 2006, 03:07 PM
  #19  
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 10,287
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes on 2 Posts
"You can take some of the sting out of the "Cha-ching"

enzian, good line. And, you're right!
maitaitom is offline  
Old Mar 9th, 2006, 03:22 PM
  #20  
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,518
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks, Maitaitom.

I dragged my husband to Switzerland for hiking last summer---he was reluctant to go because he thought it was just all about money and banking. I showed him a different Switzerland than he expected---lovely Alpine scenery, friendly people, reasonable places to stay, and great food (and wine). So now he's a believer.

I loved your story about the cow trying to eat Tracy's lunch. And the recommendation for Trummelbach Falls (especially on a rainy day) is spot on.
enzian is offline  


Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -