Going to Tangier
#2
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I believe the best port is still Algeciras. There is a choice between car ferries and hydrofoils. Hydrofoils are significantly faster, but also significantly less comfortable if there are choppy waves in the straits. <BR>Tangiers is mobbed by day trippers, so it gets a bit weird. You will certainly be accosted by rug sellers, would-be guides, etc. You can protect yourself either by taking a tour or by firmly but POLITELY saying "No, thank you," preferably in Arabic, and walking on. Outside of the old section, Tangiers isn't too interesting. The old section is nice, though. There are also rail and bus connections to other parts of Morocco which I, personally, like a lot more.
#4
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I went to Tangier from Tarifa which is a town about 1/2 west of Algeciras which is a big, dirty port city. It was very easy with no hassles or lines. Also, Tarifa is a nice town known for their windsurfing. You might want to stay and spend the evening there. <BR> <BR>You might want to think twice about even going to Tangier. It was not worth our time and trouble. On many strong recommendations, we took a tour. We expected it to be a rip off but it was more of a rip off than we'd even imagined. There was really nothing to see in Tanigier. In retrospect, I would have either not gone, or gone alone, braved the hustlers, and been able to see more. Email me for more info. <BR> <BR>If you are planning to be that far south anyway, I found Gibraltar a lot more pleasant an interesting.
#6
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Do not even think about going to Tangier by yourself. As bad as it might be, a tour will provide you with the security that you find in numbers. Heard about and witnessed a lot of harrassment for people on their own, specially in the open markets. A medina is not a place to wander on your own and where to try to "figure out" the proper acceptable behavior. <BR> <BR>I visited Tangier in November 1993 by taking a hydrofoil ride from Algeciras. Wouldn't do it again; once is about enough. If the curiosity is getting the best of you, go in an organized tour, either purchase it at a hotel or at the port in Algeciras. E-mail if you need details.
#7
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I've taken numerous weekend trips to Tangier from Algeciras and Tarifa. You have to have the right attitude for Tangier. I've been to the American Legation which is wonderful there. The Hotel Continental is great if you don't want high class. But the medina is not somewhere to go alone. People at hotel can get you guides who won't make it just one carpet stop. Madini's Perfumes is also great. And yes, it's dirty but so are lots of other places.
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#8
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The quickest and most enjoyable way to Tangier from Spain is from Tarifa, an amazing windusrfing city with a beautiful old town - it beats ugly industrial Algecerias as a port. There is only one ferry a day and leaves at 10 am and takes one hour to Tangier avoiding the roughest part of the Straits of Gibraltar. Tangier is one of my favorite places in the world (I try to go often) - its light and atmosphere (which can be very decadent) has inspired artists and writers for generations. The Hotel Continental is the best place to stay and Cafe Haffa is the best place to drink mint tea and smoke just like the beats did 40 years before. Read Paul Bowles before going to help understand the heart of the city. Be warned that the people of Tangier can be aggressive and threatening but it is part of the charm. Don't get a guide - go alone and ignore all false
#9
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Peter- I completely respect your opinion about Tangier, but found it a bit too unreal to say, and quote -"Be warned that the people of Tangier can be aggressive and threatening but it is part of the charm."- Please explain this one to me, as was wasn't charmed; I wanted to be left alone. <BR> <BR>On the other hand, I digged the recommendation about Paul Bowles ('The Sheltering Sky') Good book.
#10
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At the risk of starting another flame war, I must say I didn't find Tangiers all that dangerous or threatening. Certainly not enough to make me wish I'd taken a tour. I was traveling with my husband and we were accosted repeatedly by people selling things, or trying to act as tour guides. But we put them off with a smile and a polite no thanks, and they did not become belligerent. My husband still proudly recalls the would-be guide who offered him 100 camels for me! Of course, that's their standard line, but we had fun with it anyway. <BR>We did notice in Morocco that if you become angry or upset by a tout, they are likely to respond badly. In their minds, they are just trying to make an honest living, so they feel insulted when people react as if they were some kind of attacker. <BR>I would also suggest very modest dress. I wouldn't wear shorts, even if it's 100 degrees and everyone else on the ferry is in them. (This goes for men, too.) <BR>I can understand that someone who just steps away from a tour and is suddenly accosted by a rug seller or whatever, without any preparation, might find the experience threatening. But if you know what you're in for, and go with a pleasant but confident attitude, yes, the touts can have a certain charm. And if it all gets too much, retreat to a cafe and order a soothing mint tea.
#11
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<BR>Is anyone familiar with city tours of Tangier by Sightseeing Bus,thus perhaps avoiding the rug sellers etc.City tours such as I have experienced with Cityrama in Paris and Gray Line in San Francisco have been very interesting and pleasant. <BR>Any suggestions?
#12
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Didn't see any sightseeing busses when I was there; the medina streets are too narrow, and crowded, for a bus, I think. <BR>The government of Morocco is working very hard to make the country less off-putting for tourists. One of their laws is that only "licensed" guides be hired; both the tourist and "unlicensed" guide are in trouble if an unlicensed guide is hired. For about $25, you can hire a licensed/official guide, who has had to pass actual tests about the culture and history. They are hired through your hotel or the tourist office; they do NOT hang around the port or train stations. These guides are sacrosanct; no one will bother you if they have you in tow. They will take you to a rug shop, a souvenir shop, a Berber pharmacy - they get a kickback from these places - but the focus of the tour is to educate you on their country and give you a chance to see their culture. 90% tour, 10% shopping. If you tell them you are interested in purchasing something in particular (like pottery, for example), they will take you to a store that they feel will treat you well. I highly recommend hiring one of these folks; they have a great deal of information to give, and they have access to things that a lone traveler does not. In every city that we hired a licensed guide, we got more than our $25 worth. In Tetouan, we got suckered into hiring a tout: 10% tour, 90% visiting shops...and a gnawing fear that if we didn't buy something, we'd be abandoned in the medina to find our own way out.
#14
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The medina is definitely a walking tour! <BR>There are a couple of sights outside the medina (such as really big mosque) that you might want to visit; the guide will arrange for a car/driver (a taxi) if you want. Be sure you agree on that price before you start out ($20 for a half-day or so). The port is pretty grim; the beach looks great from a distance, but is covered in litter. Further east there are a couple of nice beaches; we missed them as it was raining the day we were going to go. <BR>Despite my don't-bother comments, it's really not a bad city, if you 1) have a couple of weeks to visit the rest of the country or 2) recognize this city is NOT representative of the whole country. <BR> <BR>One night, we were looking for an ATM and wandered all over the city; not one bit of hassling, and I felt safer there than in most U.S. cities at night (the explanation - and this was from a Moroccan - that there is little violent crime: Berbers consider it cleverer to cheat your victim than hit him over the head and take his money. In the case of cheating, the other guy has an equal chance NOT to be cheated. I liked the attitude...). <BR> <BR>One of our fondest memories was sitting in a restaurant near the port/train station, when about 3 BIG German motorcycles pulled up and parked. In full leathers were two riders per bike - and they were couples in their late 40's! Of course, several Moroccan men had to come over and check out the bikes (men are men are men everywhere! you boys and your 'more power'). Squatting down, rubbing chins, undoubtedly discussing the horsepower, how fast, etc. amongst themselves. Soon, they wandered off...then the Arab women quietly converged. In head to toe robes, with their faces partially wrapped, they carefully approached the bikes...and one by one, reached out and stroked the leather seats. Even they knew "very cool" when they saw it.... <BR> <BR>



