We had a terrific vacation to Venice, Florence and Positano and I'd love to share some of the highlights with all of you who have been absolutely indispensible in the planning of our fab trip. I'm always amazed at the generosity of those who contribute to this forum, and I try to return the favor when I can (altho I'm still quite a novice traveller!). <BR> <BR>We enjoyed a great vacation on a budget, so I hope those with similarly limited funds will gain some useful information here. <BR> <BR>We arrived at Marco Polo on Friday afternoon and opted for the quick and easy express bus from the airport to Piazzale Roma (30 min, Lit. 5,000). From there it was a quick trip on the motoscafo to our fab hotel on the Zattere, LA CALCINA (tel: 041-5206466 / fax: 041-5227045 / email: [email protected]). <BR> <BR>I must take some time here to lavish praise on this wonderful little hotel. We had room #3, which had 2 large windows looking out on the wide-open vista of the Zattere, the Giudecca Canal and Giudecca Island across the way. Along with this gorgeous sight to greet us every morning, we enjoyed the best and most abundant breakfasts of our trip in La Calcina's charming breakfast room. However, the best part was really the large floating terrace in front, which was bathed in sunlight from sunrise to sunset every day. We luxuriated on this deck every afternoon, sipping cocktails and soaking up all the incredible atmosphere which only Venice has to offer. Our room was immaculate and the staff was wonderful - I can't recommend this hotel highly enough. I can't remember the daily rate for our room, but our bill for 3 nights was just under $400 - and that's including extras like our daily cocktails. <BR> <BR>Thoroughly pleased with ourselves for having scored such terrific accomodations, we went off in search of lunch. We found Trattoria Antico Capon in nearby Campo Santa Margherita and had a great little meal, sitting outside and watching the neighborhood children playing ball while their mothers and grandmothers gossipped in little clusters. This was another great place to soak up local atmosphere, since it wasn't crawling with tourists and we could enjoy the peace and ordinary life of the neighborhood. <BR> <BR>From there we went on to the Rialto Bridge and Piazza San Marco, which were thoroughly congested with tourists, but no less impressive because of it. With its cleaned-up facade, the basilica was positively brilliant, and gave off a powerful sense of past glory that was pretty thrilling. <BR> <BR>We walked along the Riva Schiavone, which was quite overrun with tourists, when we caught sight of the sleek and sexy Cipriani water taxi, which was just then boarding. Deciding on the spot that we would have dinner at Harry's Dolci, we hopped on and set off in style for the Cipriani hotel. Feeling like movie stars, we looked back at San Marco, bathed in rich golden afternoon sun and absolutely stunning. <BR> <BR>Surprisingly, the Cipriani was not especially interesting (at least what we saw of it), so we went off in search of Harry's Dolci. Little did we know that it was a 1/2hr. walk from the hotel! No matter, since we had a lovely stroll along the Giudecca Canal. The Giudecca was completely undiluted by the presence of tourists, despite the fact of the Cipriani hotel or the youth hostel. <BR> <BR>Harry's Dolci was deserted (it was only 7pm) and we had the benefit of no less than five delightfully attentive waiters. We had one of our best meals in Venice here, altho "budget" it was decidedly not: our little dinner of appetizers and dessert was over $70 (including cocktails)! <BR> <BR>OK - I just decided that I can't continue to bore you with every tiny detail of our Venice experience, so I'll stick to highlights now: <BR> <BR>*Walking around Venice - the whole city is a highlight. I couldn't get enough of the tiny windy streets that would suddenly open onto an utterly charming little canal or precious little campo. There's just nothing on earth like this magical city on the water. <BR> <BR>*The Campanile - absolutely breathtaking! Venice in all its glory spread out in front of us, offering an eye-opening perspecitive on this city, which can feel like a rather dark rabbit warren of tiny streets when you walk through it. For maximum impact, I recommend this as one of the last things you do in the city. <BR> <BR>*Ostaria Ponte del Diavolo - this open-air restaurant in Torcello was a real treat. First, it's located in Torcello, which makes for a wonderful little day trip from Venice. Second, it's positively enchanting: a rather large restaurant, it was packed with local families enjoying a leisurely Sunday brunch, from grandparents down to their little grandchildren. Every so often one table or another would break into robust song or a rhyming toast, and the feeling of good cheer and la dolce vita was totally infectious. It was the only time on our trip when we felt that we weren't just tourists on the outside looking in, but actually participating in a special slice of Italian life. Oh, and by the way, the food was amazing! Don't miss it! <BR> <BR>The only down side was that the restaurants were decidedly hit-or-miss. Although they were recommended in guidebooks or on this forum, we found the following to be rather disappointing: Trattoria Acciughetta, Osteria da Alberto, and, worst of all, Trattoria San Trovaso (AWFUL food, ambience and service). <BR> <BR>There's so much more I'd love to share, but I'll leave it at that for now. Florence and Positano notes to follow when I recharge my batteries! Please DO ask questions if there's anything I can help answer - it helps me keep that vacation glow going! <BR> <BR>Happy travels to you all, <BR>Jane <BR>

Thanks Jane, I've saved this to my disc.

Thanks Jane <BR> <BR>That was great! Keep them coming. It's always interesting to me to read where and what other people have done. And it's informative too. Helps us to decide where to go, what to do, and what not to do. So I, for one, appreciate it. <BR>Lenore <BR> <BR>

Sounds FABULOUS!

Hi Jane <BR> <BR>Great report!! I was in Venice in 1998 and your wonderful notes and discriptions brought it all back again!! <BR>There is nothing like soaking up "La Familia" at an Itallian resturant!! <BR> <BR>Looking foreward to the rest of your trip report <BR> <BR>JOHN <BR>

Hi Jane. What a great report on Venice - can hardly wait for our trip next spring. Thank you again for personally responding to me regarding La Calcina -we are definitely booking this hotel. <BR>I look forward to the rest of your report, especially on Florence. <BR> <BR>Susan

Susan, I can't wait to hear about *your* trip next year so I can relive the glories of Venice! It was absolutely my favorite part of the trip and I could go on and on about it! <BR> <BR>One warning, though: Venice in late May, while sunny, had very brisk breezes and we both immediately came down with wheezing colds. I'm not sure exactly when in the spring you will be there, but be advised to bring light jackets and/or something to cover your neck (cotton turtlenecks, silk scarves, etc.). <BR> <BR>Also, if you are definitely staying at La Calcina and are arriving at Marco Polo, I do recommend taking the bus from the airport. While less "Venetian" and scenic than the water taxi, it is twice as fast, cheaper, and possibly more reliable: one couple arrived at La Calcina without their luggage because it had been dropped off at the wrong place by the water taxi (not sure how that happened...). <BR> <BR>And John - no kidding, there is something really special about the way Italian families enjoy a meal. There's a feeling of being completely in the moment of enjoying your company, good food, and a beautiful day - and of not being afraid to let a song go out of your heart or shout with joy at the table. Whatever it is, we don't have it here in the US, and that's a crying shame.

Where did you stay in Positano?

Jane. <BR>What a wonderful post. Thank You for all the info. We are in the process of solidifing a place to stay and are still up in the air about a number of hotels, so your vote of confidence was encouraging to read about regarding La Calcina. Thanks again <BR>John

Jane, I really enjoyed hearing about your travels in Venice and I look forward to hearing more about Positano when you post it. One question, I will be in Sorrento and Positano in October. Can you recommend some memorable restaurants in either place.

Jane! Thanks so so much for bringing Venice into my mind this afternoon. My eyes misted up reading your report!

I know I have to get my act together and post my notes on Florence and Positano, but to answer a couple of questions: <BR> <BR>In Positano we stayed at Casa Albertina - LOVED IT!!! An incredible bargain (have to look up the price - sorry) and we had a huge terrace, gorgeous views, and blinding sunlight every morning. Breakfast and dinner were included and, altho dinner was mediocre, we did have some great lunches: <BR> <BR>Cumpa Cosima - you MUST take the day trip to Ravello, a beautiful little hamlet in the hills, and have lunch here. Even though there were tons of tourists, the atmosphere was positively joyous due to the warmth and good cheer of the proprietors. The food was outstanding - simple, ultra-fresh and incredibly flavorful. There was much singing and back-slapping here as well. DO have a delightful limoncello after lunch: better than dessert and so much fun to drink (they serve it ice-cold in a frosted shooter glass). <BR> <BR>Other good eats: Bucca di Bacco in Positano was great. The food was perfectly fine, but its location on the beach and unobstructed view made it fun, fun, fun. <BR> <BR>People have said that restaurants up in the hills of Positano are much better, but we didn't stay long enough to venture up there. If dinner weren't included in our hotel rate, I would have tried Mama Rosa's(?), which was recommended by the locals and by guidebooks. <BR> <BR>Sorry I can't be more detailed than that since I don't have my notes in front of me, but I'll try to organize and post on Florence and Positano soon.

Hi, Jane. Thanks for the excellent notes on Venice. My wife and I just returned from 2 weeks in Switzerland/Italy with only 2 nights and 1 day in Venice, staying at the Hotel Campiello, only about a 3 minute walk from the basilica. We are ready to go back tomorrow.