tessietoes

I'll be in Paris & Grasse for a seminar then to Rimini for a work retreat. Not sure where to plug Mugaritz in there but I'm specifically going back to San Sebastian to dine. This is not just any restaurant in my head. Oh no no no no no. I've been dreaming about trying this place since we returned from our first trip to SS and after literally dreaming about it in my dreams. I almost never dream of food but what I saw was so vivid, something of an alien texture...pink, foamy and looked too good to wake up. I had a chance to try his food at the SLS hotel, a Pop Up he did, but I got so intimidated I didn't walk the few steps from the main to check it out. I've regretted that since so that brings us to present time, June in particular. I normally travel with my fiance but timing wise I could be going alone. I don't think I will, and I really hope not but life goes on.

Life REALLY went on after reading AJPeabody's trip report to Paris last year this morning! I'm going to try his chocolate recommendations Any Paris anything will make me happy so whatever Paris anything you have please share. I might go easy on the museums this time. It will be my fifth visit so will go light on the must sees unless it's a must see again such as an early walk to Notre Dame. I can't tell you how beautiful Notre Dame is empty with only silence and morning rays. Anywhere cool to go? And I mean weather-wise as June I hear could be scorching.

From Paris I plan to take the train to Nice and renting a car staying in Grasse for 3 days then could wander around perhaps a week total. We've stayed in Villefranche twice which we loved and have driven the coast all the way to Monaco. We also had a lovely tour of Fragonard and wouldn't mind another similar experience. What did you enjoy in Grasse? I'd love some ideas including museums around the area. Should have 3-4 days with a car.

What's the best way to get to Rimini from Nice airport? Do I fly to Bologna or Florence? I should have 5-6 extra days in the Emilia Romanga area with a car --or is train better? I'm really excited to explore the food and terrain in this region.

So you see, I don't know how to get to Mugaritz with my plan. Any insight appreciated.

Thank you in advance!

StCirq

Beneath the travel hyperbole lies a sense of geography I'm not understanding in the least. You're going to Paris, OK, that's understandable. Then Grasse (why? Are you a perfume fan? I found Grasse to be an enormous bore, considering all the other wonders in the area). Then over to the Adriatic Coast to Rimini, which is already a bit of a stretch, given the logistical limitations of wandering from southeastern France into anywhere in Italy. And then you want to zoom all the way over to northeastern Spain for a single restaurant with pink foam?

Not much of this is making any sense to me, but good luck.

Nonconformist

Sounds like Paris, Grasse and Rimini are all for work so not optional? But she has some free time between the latter two?

Not clear about the timing logistics, but if you want to go from Rimini to San Sebastian you're probably going to have to fly. Bologna-Bilbao? But definitely make sure you can get a reservation at the restaurant for the right dates before booking anything.

ekscrunchy

If you are food crazy, why not stay in the Basque region and try the many fantastic places there: Have you been to Elkano, Etxebarri (just naming two that I liked). And the ones in Bilbao. What about the lamb country near Sepulveda or Ribera del Duero? For me it would be a lot easier to keep the car and just drive around there, rather than having to fly to ER. Maybe leave that for another trip entirely.

Do you have the table at Mugaritz? Don't go further until you nail that down.

tessietoes

Haven't been to Elkano or Etxebarri but they look great! Thanks ekscrunchy.
Restaurante Elkano de Guetaria: cocina selecta del mar
Menua « Etxebarri

So here's the pre final draft. Had to move some dates around and looked at flights. This itinerary looks doable time wise. I'd love your input on how to make the trip more efficient logistically especially the driving parts. Can you also recommend a good guidebook for the Emilia Romagna region or food blog sites, apps. Anything useful for first timers. There's a lot of driving involved-- any tips to save costs greatly appreciated!! We usually rent with Hertz - heads up on hidden fees, laws, what to look out for, best maps, best cards for points/rewards, any tips for me?

I need a new luggage too - can you recommend a hard case with no outer pockets under $100 bucks. Extra durable with 4 spin wheels?

Ok so the itinerary:

Fly to Barcelona - 3 nights
Fly to San Sebastian - 10 nights then drive to Bilbao Airport (will have car) - Mugaritz and will return to Bar Azkena where we went twice last year. Would love some of your favorites - museums and drivable spots. I'll check my old San Sebastian thread for this also.
Fly to Milan - 3 nights first time - any recommendations? Very excited about this part, new city!
Rent car and drive to Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena to Rimini then return car (retreat - car not needed)
Get car again and drive to Bologna, Ravenna, Ferrara all the way to Venice - can we take the train and not get the car again or better with car in terms of site seeing? Retreat plus a week - any hotel recommendations with AC in the Emilia Romagna area? I need a good guidebook for this area if you could recommend some of your favorites or blogs.
Venice - our 2nd time - would love to discover other islands, some hand blown glass-making etc. 10 nights
Then fly to Nice, rent car drive to Grasse 7 nights
Train to Paris 12 nights
Train to London or fly back from Paris (not sure yet depends on work) - 3-5 nights
Fly home

I'll be back with more specifics but that's the draft and would love some help adding in fun activities to do, live music, self-touring ideas, art shows, any Venusian symbols - statues, paintings, etc? We've done a similar length trip a couple times in the past but not this much driving. It seems to be a lot of driving. Any train advice?

Food wise, Mugaritz is a super splurge. I'd say for every 1 super splurge you're looking at maybe 15 cheap eats, 8 moderates and 3 splurges. Please recommend your favorite restaurants. I know there's plenty but just the extra good ones. If there's a view or interesting scenery, anything creative then the better! I usually like having either appetizer and entree or entree and dessert with or without wine or all of the above. Just depends you know.

cheap eats = 25 euros per person plus drinks
moderate = 35-75 euros per person plus drinks
splurge = 100 per person + plus drinks
super splurge = 300 per person + plus drinks

StCirq, why not, yes, yes and Thank you! I'll be doing my research. Many many thanks everyone!!

tessietoes

That ratio is so wrong! I meant to say Mugaritz is most likely our only super splurge so more of the rest.

tessietoes

Thanks Nonconformist!

ekscrunchy

Get a copy of the Fred Plotkin Italy "food bible," and a copy of the Slow Food Osterie app or guidebook.

For Spain, look at the online Repsol guide.

When are you going? Did you book Mugaritz? If you want to go there, or Etxebarri, and you certainly should go to the latter, you need reservations months ahead. Etxebarri costs nothing close to 300 pp before drinks.

Do you know Maribel's Basque region online guide?

StCirq

We spent almost a week in Milan at the end of last November and loved every minute of it. Yes, I know it's hardly on anyone's must-see list, but maybe that's what we loved about it. We rented a fabulous apartment at a fabulous price on the edge of the Brera neighborhood and just wandered all over every day (no Duomo, no Last Supper - we had already seen those years ago). The Museo della Scienza e della Technologia (also known as the Leonardo da Vinci museum as it houses dozens of his models) had us spellbound for several hours. The Brera neighborhood was full of fascinating artisan shops. And Peck, not far from the cathedral, is by far the most amazing food store I have ever been in in my life (and that's saying something). Can't reccomend restaurants because we kept buying food at Peck and eating it in our apartment.

ekscrunchy

St. Cirq:

Would you mind sharing the link to that apartment in Milan? Many thanks!

StCirq

ekscrunchy, Fodors is not letting me post links at the moment, but Google Cool & Lux Central Apartment in Milano and you'll find it. We stayed there for 5 nights last December for 453€ (with our booking.com discount), and it was wonderful. Huge bedroom, washer/dryer in the apartment, comfortable, spacious, with a nice balcony overlooking a quiet street and the very nice Bar B just across from us. It was at most a 10-minute walk to the Duomo and that whole area, and the neighborhood was filled with interesting shops and cafés.

ekscrunchy

Many thanks! I've not been to Milan in about 20 years and your trip sounds so perfect. I love the idea of eating most of my meals from Peck. Are there several rental flats in the building?
It looks as if this is the case since I see a choice of either 3- or 1-bedroom apartments.... Great price, too.

StCirq

Yes, I think there are a half-dozen or so flats in the building. As you may know, we live in Europe and do loads of "budget" traveling around here when we can, and that stay in Milan was one of the highlights of our adventures. We thought it was a tremendous bargain, especially since we could run to Peck for goodies. I got roundly slapped down by a Fodorite who happily doesn't seem present here any more for shopping at Peck, which she deemed a major tourist venue, but when we were there it was ALL Italians with their briefcases on their way home from work, and picking up some fresh tagliatelle and bolognese sauce and salad cost us under 10 euros and was amazing. We could have picked up any number of other delicacies. The concierge in the building was also just a sweetheart. The whole experience was one of our best in traveling all over Europe. The receptionist from Cool & Lux who met us at the apartment was also very professional. We loved the whole experience and the neighborhood was superb. There's also a lovely garden area on the ground floor of the apartment which we didn't take advantage of, unfortunately, it being in the deadof winter when we were there.

janisj

>>ekscrunchy, Fodors is not letting me post links at the moment,<<

Why is that?

I've been able to post links all along. Is this the link? ** COOL & LUX CENTRAL APARTMENT, MILAN **

nanabee

I agree St.Cirq, Milan is a very cool, artistic city. Very liveable and doesn't have the hustle and bustle feel of a tourist town. I love the various neighborhoods we were able to explore. I wish we could have spent a lot more time there.

Nonconformist

Adding that time at the beginning definitely makes it work. Have a great time.

StCirq

I have no idea, janis. I found at least half a dozen links to the apartment but couldn't copy and paste a single one. Maybe it wasn't Fodors but rather something wrong with my own equipment. Haven't had any other problems with links, though, just that one.

tessietoes

Hi again!

Those descriptions of Milan make me look forward to it even more!! Thank you I'm looking forward to Peck and also seeing the Last Supper. So the trip is still on but we're narrowing down to 5 weeks plus retreat. I overestimated the amount of travel time I had again. So it's:

Paris 7-- Grasse 3--- Marseille 3--- San Sebastian 12----retreat in Rimini 8 ---- Emilia Romagna and Milan 8

We will be in Paris for a week. Then from there we'll take the train to Nice then get a car and drive to Grasse. We're thinking of driving to Marseille after 3 nights. Is this a good idea or should we take the train? Do we need a car around Marseille? We plan to be there 2-3 nights. I didn't see any direct flights to San Sebastian from Nice. So it's Marseille to Biarritz then drive to San Sebastian. Is there a better way?

Is there a direct flight from San Sebastian to Bologna? We should have about 8 days around the Emilia Romagna area and Milan combined after my retreat in Rimini before flying home from Milan. Where should we base for 3-4 days? We will have a car the whole time so can stop in out of the way places and restaurants. We haven't booked any hotels yet if you have some recommendations 150-250 euros.

Thanks! Slowly coming together