Getting Flashed in Puglia and Other Adventures
Oct 20th, 2012, 08:05 AM
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<b>Trip report continued: Final mini-cycle and onto Lecce</b>
After breakfast, some of us chose to do a last really short loop (9.3 miles) cycle through Uggiano La Chiesa. Funny how these short things are so enjoyable. About seven of us made our way through shady lanes to the town and stopped for a last cappuccino.
We all said goodbye to our views (sniff, sniff)and then joined the shuttle to the Lecce train station.
OK--here is where things get sort of funny. I had spent hours trying to decide between the <b>Patria Palace</b> and the <b>Risorgimento Resort</b> before deciding upon the Risorgimento. I had decided to treat ourselves to a bit of luxury, but certainly had not ordered a suite or anything.
It turns out that the Risorgimento was having an AC crisis, so they had reserved a room for us at the Patria Palace for one night, and then we'd return to the Risorgimento TO A SUITE the second night.
Maybe getting flashed was a sign that I had been blessed by trip gods.
We took a taxi from the station to the Patria. Yeah, we could have walked it, but it was just far enough away that getting a taxi made sense.
The Patria was old but just lovely. Large spacious room with big windows overlooking the hotel entrance. Huge bathroom, nice tub. Mirrors. Mirrors. After a week of being in hotel rooms with not enough light or mirrors to pluck my eyebrows and not enough room in the shower to shave my legs, I was in heaven.
In fact, I was in heaven so much, for the next few days I spent little time walking Lecce. I would creep out of the room long enough to grab gelato or sweets from the myriad of places in the town, but otherwise, I could be found soaking in a tub, reading my Kindle, etc happily ensconced in my hotel room(s).
My husband is the one who ventured forth and explored the town. And since he never remembers details, you guys are out of luck. Let me just say that Lecce is a rather Baroque town with ancient ruins, too. And while that is all well and good, let me tell you that you have to come here for...
Desserts, Gelato, Confections!!!!!! They should just rename the town "Dolci, Italy" and be done with it.
We really don't do sweets. We went on a gelato-fest for a week in Florence (where there's intense competition for gelato status), but otherwise, if we do desserts and baked goods, we're inclined towards French boulangeries and patisseries.
We've revised our thinking.
In our two days of tasting, we agreed that Lecce may be the dessert capital of our world. It seemed as though every third restaurant was actually some sort of confectionery.
While we certainly enjoyed the wares of <b>Pasticceria Natale</b> we can most highly recommend repeated stops at <b>Caffe Alvino</b>, where the gelato takes second place to the myriad of possible dolci one could consume. There was this coated-gelato on a stick that was fabulous, and we found ourselves consuming huge quantities of pasticciotto, a cream-filled cake that is to die for. Just think of some taste you'd like, and you could find something similar in their endless refrigerated cases.
We have strongly suggested to our brother-in-law, who can eat sweets all day and never gain a pound, that he just move to Lecce to experience his heaven on earth.
Dinner that night was reserved weeks ahead at <b>Alle due Corti</b>, which I was able to do by email. A longtime family establishment, it is known for its ciceri e tria (crisply fried pasta with chickpeas), which I ordered. I forget what my husband ordered, but no matter what, it was good but not great. The house wine was "meh". But we enjoyed our night, and as always, we loved watching the locals in action in restaurants. The table next to us was a lot of fun, and we passed them our half-full carafe of house wine before we left to wish them a good evening.
We slept well in our lovely room, and after enjoying a simply sumptuous breakfast at the Patria, where the local dolci were well represented, we prepared to move to our suite at the Risorgimento.
Wow! What a difference in atmosphere. Very modern. And we ended up in what I think was one of the penthouse suites, which included a seating area, a bedroom area, a lovely bathroom, a two-person hot tub in an alcove off of the main room, and a lovely long, very private terrace. OMG. Remember, I didn't book this at all!
So of course, we did what we always do when we get a terrace: we did our laundry. I'm not kidding. As soon as we moved in, we strung up our stretchy clotheslines, blew up our hangers, and went to work. It felt so good to know we'd have clean underwear for the remaining few days of the trip.
My husband left to do some audiotour at some church while I settled in to catch up on my Kindle reading list. I told you I had "checked out" of touring!
Dinner that evening was at some restaurant off of the square that we just happened into. Very small but nice. Lime green decor touches. Sorry that I did not write down the name.
After a quick dolci hit at Alvino, we made our way to our hotel and took down our laundry. Again, sleep was blissful.
After a good hotel breakfast (but NOTHING like the display of the Patria Palace), we got a taxi to the Brindisi airport.
I just was not on my game here. I knew that the Pugliair shuttle's pricing would be good, its timing would not work well with our flight schedule. But I should have searched for an alternate and much cheaper shuttle to Brindisi. It was 50 Euros for the taxi to Brindisi. Still, our taxi was clean, our driver was kind, and we actually liked the airport, too. Ironically, I was able to pick up more tourist information about Puglia there than at any other juncture throughout the trip.
<b>Next: On to Rome--Aventino and a Testaccio Food Tour</b>
After breakfast, some of us chose to do a last really short loop (9.3 miles) cycle through Uggiano La Chiesa. Funny how these short things are so enjoyable. About seven of us made our way through shady lanes to the town and stopped for a last cappuccino.
We all said goodbye to our views (sniff, sniff)and then joined the shuttle to the Lecce train station.
OK--here is where things get sort of funny. I had spent hours trying to decide between the <b>Patria Palace</b> and the <b>Risorgimento Resort</b> before deciding upon the Risorgimento. I had decided to treat ourselves to a bit of luxury, but certainly had not ordered a suite or anything.
It turns out that the Risorgimento was having an AC crisis, so they had reserved a room for us at the Patria Palace for one night, and then we'd return to the Risorgimento TO A SUITE the second night.
Maybe getting flashed was a sign that I had been blessed by trip gods.
We took a taxi from the station to the Patria. Yeah, we could have walked it, but it was just far enough away that getting a taxi made sense.
The Patria was old but just lovely. Large spacious room with big windows overlooking the hotel entrance. Huge bathroom, nice tub. Mirrors. Mirrors. After a week of being in hotel rooms with not enough light or mirrors to pluck my eyebrows and not enough room in the shower to shave my legs, I was in heaven.
In fact, I was in heaven so much, for the next few days I spent little time walking Lecce. I would creep out of the room long enough to grab gelato or sweets from the myriad of places in the town, but otherwise, I could be found soaking in a tub, reading my Kindle, etc happily ensconced in my hotel room(s).
My husband is the one who ventured forth and explored the town. And since he never remembers details, you guys are out of luck. Let me just say that Lecce is a rather Baroque town with ancient ruins, too. And while that is all well and good, let me tell you that you have to come here for...
Desserts, Gelato, Confections!!!!!! They should just rename the town "Dolci, Italy" and be done with it.
We really don't do sweets. We went on a gelato-fest for a week in Florence (where there's intense competition for gelato status), but otherwise, if we do desserts and baked goods, we're inclined towards French boulangeries and patisseries.
We've revised our thinking.
In our two days of tasting, we agreed that Lecce may be the dessert capital of our world. It seemed as though every third restaurant was actually some sort of confectionery.
While we certainly enjoyed the wares of <b>Pasticceria Natale</b> we can most highly recommend repeated stops at <b>Caffe Alvino</b>, where the gelato takes second place to the myriad of possible dolci one could consume. There was this coated-gelato on a stick that was fabulous, and we found ourselves consuming huge quantities of pasticciotto, a cream-filled cake that is to die for. Just think of some taste you'd like, and you could find something similar in their endless refrigerated cases.
We have strongly suggested to our brother-in-law, who can eat sweets all day and never gain a pound, that he just move to Lecce to experience his heaven on earth.
Dinner that night was reserved weeks ahead at <b>Alle due Corti</b>, which I was able to do by email. A longtime family establishment, it is known for its ciceri e tria (crisply fried pasta with chickpeas), which I ordered. I forget what my husband ordered, but no matter what, it was good but not great. The house wine was "meh". But we enjoyed our night, and as always, we loved watching the locals in action in restaurants. The table next to us was a lot of fun, and we passed them our half-full carafe of house wine before we left to wish them a good evening.
We slept well in our lovely room, and after enjoying a simply sumptuous breakfast at the Patria, where the local dolci were well represented, we prepared to move to our suite at the Risorgimento.
Wow! What a difference in atmosphere. Very modern. And we ended up in what I think was one of the penthouse suites, which included a seating area, a bedroom area, a lovely bathroom, a two-person hot tub in an alcove off of the main room, and a lovely long, very private terrace. OMG. Remember, I didn't book this at all!
So of course, we did what we always do when we get a terrace: we did our laundry. I'm not kidding. As soon as we moved in, we strung up our stretchy clotheslines, blew up our hangers, and went to work. It felt so good to know we'd have clean underwear for the remaining few days of the trip.
My husband left to do some audiotour at some church while I settled in to catch up on my Kindle reading list. I told you I had "checked out" of touring!
Dinner that evening was at some restaurant off of the square that we just happened into. Very small but nice. Lime green decor touches. Sorry that I did not write down the name.
After a quick dolci hit at Alvino, we made our way to our hotel and took down our laundry. Again, sleep was blissful.
After a good hotel breakfast (but NOTHING like the display of the Patria Palace), we got a taxi to the Brindisi airport.
I just was not on my game here. I knew that the Pugliair shuttle's pricing would be good, its timing would not work well with our flight schedule. But I should have searched for an alternate and much cheaper shuttle to Brindisi. It was 50 Euros for the taxi to Brindisi. Still, our taxi was clean, our driver was kind, and we actually liked the airport, too. Ironically, I was able to pick up more tourist information about Puglia there than at any other juncture throughout the trip.
<b>Next: On to Rome--Aventino and a Testaccio Food Tour</b>
Oct 20th, 2012, 10:30 AM
#44
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AlessandraZoe: oh my goodness, you have THE gift! I have been on that bike with you, seen your flasher (yuck!), eaten the food and marvelled over the views. I have laughed and even shed a couple of tears of nostalgic longing for our beloved Apullia!
But you really got me with the hanging of the laundry scene: DH and I also travel with inflatable 'hangars' to quick-dry laundry! Now, please clarify, are you lucky enough to have found actual rubber hangars or are these, like mine, a packet of kids balloons???
I often wonder who is more startled when they encounter our balloons: the chambermaids/housekeepers when they spy colourful balloon 'animals' dressed in our intimates or the airport security who curiously examine our multi-packs of coloured rubber...I take Nellie McClung's advice seriously "Never apologize, Never explain".
But you really got me with the hanging of the laundry scene: DH and I also travel with inflatable 'hangars' to quick-dry laundry! Now, please clarify, are you lucky enough to have found actual rubber hangars or are these, like mine, a packet of kids balloons???
I often wonder who is more startled when they encounter our balloons: the chambermaids/housekeepers when they spy colourful balloon 'animals' dressed in our intimates or the airport security who curiously examine our multi-packs of coloured rubber...I take Nellie McClung's advice seriously "Never apologize, Never explain".
Oct 20th, 2012, 11:54 AM
#45
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I've told people about those balloons! It's such a great idea.
We own real blow-up hangers, although I''m so sad we can't use our perfectly good original ones anymore. Those had metal hooks one inserted into the plastic after blow-up. They sort of look funny under the X-ray...looks as though we are bringing through weapons of mass destruction. It's bad enough that I'm risking jail time with my cupful of Ultra Tide powder.
Thanks for enjoying this. Now that I'm nearing the end, I'm starting to get into this.
We own real blow-up hangers, although I''m so sad we can't use our perfectly good original ones anymore. Those had metal hooks one inserted into the plastic after blow-up. They sort of look funny under the X-ray...looks as though we are bringing through weapons of mass destruction. It's bad enough that I'm risking jail time with my cupful of Ultra Tide powder.
Thanks for enjoying this. Now that I'm nearing the end, I'm starting to get into this.
Oct 21st, 2012, 06:36 AM
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AZ: as a result of your blog/TR, DH and I are contemplating a trip back to Pezze di Greco, Cisternino and environs to be again with family and friends...step one? track down some of those inflatable hangars (w/o the X-ray scarey bits)!!!! Thanks for your report.
Oct 22nd, 2012, 05:27 AM
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I didn't get to Gallipoli at all. We only were on the Ionian side enough to dip our toes in and then cycled across the heel back to the Adriatic.
I would say that Santa Maria di Leuca is nothing to write home about. The coastline DOWN to it is worth it.
And I thank you for raising this issue (plus thanks for the compliment)of the coast, for it gives me a chance to say that this route was very frequented by many cycling groups of all nationalities and skills. We talking teams of "swish, swish, swish" speed cyclists, to Austrians, Australians, British, other American tours, etc with uprights, dropped handles, front bike bags, etc.
There were not that many cars because it was October, and that made all the climbs and downhills much more feasible and enjoyable.
In other words, this is a) a good, no-brainer cycling route for anyone with decent abilities and b) October is a great month to do it because I would never want to cycle it mid-season with endless car traffic.
I would say that Santa Maria di Leuca is nothing to write home about. The coastline DOWN to it is worth it.
And I thank you for raising this issue (plus thanks for the compliment)of the coast, for it gives me a chance to say that this route was very frequented by many cycling groups of all nationalities and skills. We talking teams of "swish, swish, swish" speed cyclists, to Austrians, Australians, British, other American tours, etc with uprights, dropped handles, front bike bags, etc.
There were not that many cars because it was October, and that made all the climbs and downhills much more feasible and enjoyable.
In other words, this is a) a good, no-brainer cycling route for anyone with decent abilities and b) October is a great month to do it because I would never want to cycle it mid-season with endless car traffic.
Oct 22nd, 2012, 05:35 AM
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<b>END TRIP REPORT</b>
I'm going to end this trip report here because the rest of our stay was in Rome, although I'm happy to answer any questions that I can about this Puglia portion.
Going forward, I will write separate reports or posts on these topics:
<b>A Short Aventino Stay in Rome with a Food Tour</b>
<b>Taralli</b>
<b>Cycling with Cycling Companies--Why We Do It and With Whom</b>
The titles may be different, but you get the idea.
As soon as I write on any of the topics above, I'll refer to this report, and I'll list the topic link on this report, too. Hope this plan works well for everyone's needs.
I'm going to end this trip report here because the rest of our stay was in Rome, although I'm happy to answer any questions that I can about this Puglia portion.
Going forward, I will write separate reports or posts on these topics:
<b>A Short Aventino Stay in Rome with a Food Tour</b>
<b>Taralli</b>
<b>Cycling with Cycling Companies--Why We Do It and With Whom</b>
The titles may be different, but you get the idea.
As soon as I write on any of the topics above, I'll refer to this report, and I'll list the topic link on this report, too. Hope this plan works well for everyone's needs.
Oct 24th, 2012, 01:24 PM
#52
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As promised...<b>Link to Two Days in Rome part of this report (which includes Perilli and Food Tour)</b>
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-testaccio.cfm
As of this post, I'm not finished with it yet, but I'm certainly getting there!
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-testaccio.cfm
As of this post, I'm not finished with it yet, but I'm certainly getting there!
Oct 26th, 2012, 08:39 AM
#53
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Have finished the Rome report and am now in the midst of completing this one at your request:
<b>Why Do A Cycling Tour: A Review of Various Tour Companies and General Tips </b>
http://www.fodors.com/community/trav...neral-tips.cfm
<b>Why Do A Cycling Tour: A Review of Various Tour Companies and General Tips </b>
http://www.fodors.com/community/trav...neral-tips.cfm
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