Ger's Trip to Rome & Bologna
Oct 23rd, 2016, 01:55 PM
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The number of visitors to Rome has exploded over the last decade. However, I've found that even at most crowded times of the year, there are many lovely places that don't attract the crowds.
September and October are the busiest months in Rome, based on hotel presences.
September and October are the busiest months in Rome, based on hotel presences.
Oct 23rd, 2016, 02:09 PM
#22
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OH, Ger, this is a great report. You are doing everyone a big favor with all the detail of hotels and restaurants.
We spent 9 days in Rome, once, and we stayed at three different places. First a huge tourist hotel way out on the Aurelia, (the end of a group trip,) then, on our own, in historic district at
Yes, Albergo di Senato! with a balcony overlooking the Pantheon, very wonderful, and a big change from the first place!! It is everything you say and worth it.
Third was a great B & B up on via di San Basilio, which was wonderful in other ways, and altogether, we dollar-cost-averaged the hotel nights, coming out rather OK!
Keep writing - I'll be following along with many others. and thanks.
We spent 9 days in Rome, once, and we stayed at three different places. First a huge tourist hotel way out on the Aurelia, (the end of a group trip,) then, on our own, in historic district at
Yes, Albergo di Senato! with a balcony overlooking the Pantheon, very wonderful, and a big change from the first place!! It is everything you say and worth it.
Third was a great B & B up on via di San Basilio, which was wonderful in other ways, and altogether, we dollar-cost-averaged the hotel nights, coming out rather OK!
Keep writing - I'll be following along with many others. and thanks.
Oct 23rd, 2016, 03:47 PM
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bvlenci,
The thing is that we did see lovely places that were uncrowded, though
Some places people mention in that way we're still very full. The line for Dori Pamphili was a half hour long, for instance.
But as a first time visitor, I wanted to see the Pantheon, piazza Navona .
We skipped many of the most crowded places like the Vatican museums and the inside of the Colloseum but even walking in the streets was difficult.
The thing is that we did see lovely places that were uncrowded, though
Some places people mention in that way we're still very full. The line for Dori Pamphili was a half hour long, for instance.
But as a first time visitor, I wanted to see the Pantheon, piazza Navona .
We skipped many of the most crowded places like the Vatican museums and the inside of the Colloseum but even walking in the streets was difficult.
Oct 23rd, 2016, 03:47 PM
#25
Wonderful report. Signorelli's frescoes in the San Brizio Chapel in Orvieto's cathedral are truly a sight to behold, aren't they? Glad you made the trip. I revisited Orvieto this summer, enjoyed it as always.
Oct 23rd, 2016, 03:54 PM
#26
I reported years ago that had gone to revisit Doria Pamphilj and it was crowded, though no wait to get in. I was met with disbelief on this forum.
For what it's worth, there are plenty of places to escape crowds in Rome, but not if you're staying by the Pantheon--or Piazza Navona for that matter! Actually a couple years ago I was taking a class in July, rather last minute, and had trouble finding a place to stay that met my specs (needed reliable wifi for work, wanted to walk to school in 20 minutes or less, wanted AC). I booked a place not that far from Santa Maria Sopra Minerva, just a bit southeast of there, toward Gesu and Collegio Romano. Was very worried about crowds, but my particular street and certain blocks I came to know were devoid of people most of the time, and I learned to walk those routes to and from class to avoid the hordes.
I don't travel in Sept./Oct., so maybe it's busier then. The past several years my visits have been in June/July, afairly busy season I would think.
In any case, Ger, you solved the problem by staying a bit further out in Trastevere. Good call.
For what it's worth, there are plenty of places to escape crowds in Rome, but not if you're staying by the Pantheon--or Piazza Navona for that matter! Actually a couple years ago I was taking a class in July, rather last minute, and had trouble finding a place to stay that met my specs (needed reliable wifi for work, wanted to walk to school in 20 minutes or less, wanted AC). I booked a place not that far from Santa Maria Sopra Minerva, just a bit southeast of there, toward Gesu and Collegio Romano. Was very worried about crowds, but my particular street and certain blocks I came to know were devoid of people most of the time, and I learned to walk those routes to and from class to avoid the hordes.
I don't travel in Sept./Oct., so maybe it's busier then. The past several years my visits have been in June/July, afairly busy season I would think.
In any case, Ger, you solved the problem by staying a bit further out in Trastevere. Good call.
Oct 24th, 2016, 04:11 AM
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Loving this, Ger. Your reports are always so literate and detailed. We are going to Milan and Venice over Christmas, but Rome won't be far behind, as it's been awhile for me and decades for my husband.
Oct 24th, 2016, 05:40 AM
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Hey Ger! So glad my little recommendation helped. I follow her on Facebook (actually I think I'm friends with her on FB, would have to check) and Katie is fabulous and fearless. She visited Lebanon last year, for the food, too.
I saw on FB you went to Trattoria Monti, I really hope you had the red onion flan! I can't recall if I told you about it ahead of time, but I went there specifically to find it. YUMMMMMMM
I saw on FB you went to Trattoria Monti, I really hope you had the red onion flan! I can't recall if I told you about it ahead of time, but I went there specifically to find it. YUMMMMMMM
Oct 24th, 2016, 06:28 AM
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Wonderful, Ger!
Here's my (2005!) TR that includes Bologna:
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...ellagio-tr.cfm
I'm wondering if our hotel, Sofitel, has become the Mercure in which you stayed. The location was the same. I wrote 'Bertina’s' as our best meal. Upon googling, 'BertinO's e Figlio' comes up. I'm sure I mis-wrote in the TR. No doubt, the toddering grandfather is in heaven now so the sons have taken over.
Keep it coming, please!
Here's my (2005!) TR that includes Bologna:
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...ellagio-tr.cfm
I'm wondering if our hotel, Sofitel, has become the Mercure in which you stayed. The location was the same. I wrote 'Bertina’s' as our best meal. Upon googling, 'BertinO's e Figlio' comes up. I'm sure I mis-wrote in the TR. No doubt, the toddering grandfather is in heaven now so the sons have taken over.
Keep it coming, please!
Oct 24th, 2016, 09:50 AM
#31
I reported years ago that had gone to revisit Doria Pamphilj and it was crowded, though no wait to get in. I was met with disbelief on this forum.>>
apologies if i was one of those, Leely2. The fact is that the twice I've been it was pretty well deserted but as both times were in February, perhaps that isn't the best test of overall attendance figures. And at least there was no queue.
thanks for the Bologna link, TD - it should prove useful next year!
apologies if i was one of those, Leely2. The fact is that the twice I've been it was pretty well deserted but as both times were in February, perhaps that isn't the best test of overall attendance figures. And at least there was no queue.
thanks for the Bologna link, TD - it should prove useful next year!
Oct 24th, 2016, 10:15 AM
#32
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Thank you all for your feedback and kind comments. It encourages me to continue knowing that this is useful. I hope to finish the restaurant report this evening, and then start on the sites tomorrow.
TDudette: yours was one of the reports I read for my Bologna planning
.
I will only join long line-ups in very exceptional circumstances; e.g. I lined up for about two hours in the freezing cold at the Capodimonte museum in Naples several years ago to see the largest Caravaggio exhibition ever mounted, and it was worth it!
I have to say that I was lucky with the crowds – most places I visited, with the exception of the Vatican, were almost empty. This was due to the fact that the places I knew would be crowded I visited at 0830/0900 in the morning. I strongly recommend this approach as, come 1100, it becomes insane at the major sites and seriously unpleasant.
Best … Ger
TDudette: yours was one of the reports I read for my Bologna planning
.I will only join long line-ups in very exceptional circumstances; e.g. I lined up for about two hours in the freezing cold at the Capodimonte museum in Naples several years ago to see the largest Caravaggio exhibition ever mounted, and it was worth it!
I have to say that I was lucky with the crowds – most places I visited, with the exception of the Vatican, were almost empty. This was due to the fact that the places I knew would be crowded I visited at 0830/0900 in the morning. I strongly recommend this approach as, come 1100, it becomes insane at the major sites and seriously unpleasant.
Best … Ger
Oct 24th, 2016, 10:20 AM
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Continuing with the Food ....
Monday Day Four: Piazza Navona - La Focaccia
https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restau...ome_Lazio.html
That day, I was wandering around Piazza Navona, and there appears to be few restaurants that don’t have touts. This restaurant comes highly recommended by Tripadvisor and is located in a charming little square opposite the church of Santa Maria della Pace. They are renowned for their piazzas. I had a starter of bruschetta and pasta with pesto for mains. Both were tasty. With two glass of wine and bottle of water the bill was 25 Euro. OK at a push, but I do prefer finer fare.
Tuesday Day Five: Trastevere - Ristorante Paris
http://www.ristoranteparis.it/cucina_en.htm
https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restau...ome_Lazio.html
Following a really stressful morning visit to the Vatican, I was in serious need of peace and quiet for lunch and the afternoon. I headed to Trastevere and found this lovely restaurant, just off the Piazza Santa Maria. I sat outside under an awning as the rain pelted down for over an hour. It was so relaxing. I started with the Pasta alla Vongole (I just can’t get enough of that dish) and the lamb in pistachio. Thoroughly delicious. This restaurant is generally rated as the best in Trastevere, and is an ideal place to dine while exploring this area. With half-bottle of good red wine from the Lazio region and water, the bill was 50 Euros. Don't miss it. People are exceptionally friendly and good-humoured in this area.
Wednesday Day Six: Piazza di Spagna – Nino dal 1934, 11 Via Borgognona
http://www.ristorantenino.it/en
https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restau...ome_Lazio.html
I had an afternoon booking at the Borghese Gallery, so decided to revist Nino’s. I started with pate from Tuscany and followed with Veal. I had actually ordered the pork, but no matter, I was in a hurry so didn’t have time to send it back. Both dishes were very good. With wine and water the bill came to about 45 Euros.
Monday Day Four: Piazza Navona - La Focaccia
https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restau...ome_Lazio.html
That day, I was wandering around Piazza Navona, and there appears to be few restaurants that don’t have touts. This restaurant comes highly recommended by Tripadvisor and is located in a charming little square opposite the church of Santa Maria della Pace. They are renowned for their piazzas. I had a starter of bruschetta and pasta with pesto for mains. Both were tasty. With two glass of wine and bottle of water the bill was 25 Euro. OK at a push, but I do prefer finer fare.
Tuesday Day Five: Trastevere - Ristorante Paris
http://www.ristoranteparis.it/cucina_en.htm
https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restau...ome_Lazio.html
Following a really stressful morning visit to the Vatican, I was in serious need of peace and quiet for lunch and the afternoon. I headed to Trastevere and found this lovely restaurant, just off the Piazza Santa Maria. I sat outside under an awning as the rain pelted down for over an hour. It was so relaxing. I started with the Pasta alla Vongole (I just can’t get enough of that dish) and the lamb in pistachio. Thoroughly delicious. This restaurant is generally rated as the best in Trastevere, and is an ideal place to dine while exploring this area. With half-bottle of good red wine from the Lazio region and water, the bill was 50 Euros. Don't miss it. People are exceptionally friendly and good-humoured in this area.
Wednesday Day Six: Piazza di Spagna – Nino dal 1934, 11 Via Borgognona
http://www.ristorantenino.it/en
https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restau...ome_Lazio.html
I had an afternoon booking at the Borghese Gallery, so decided to revist Nino’s. I started with pate from Tuscany and followed with Veal. I had actually ordered the pork, but no matter, I was in a hurry so didn’t have time to send it back. Both dishes were very good. With wine and water the bill came to about 45 Euros.
Oct 24th, 2016, 11:18 AM
#34
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On to Bologna ….
Thursday Day Seven: Bologna: Caminetto d’Ora
http://www.caminettodoro.it/
https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restau...a_Romagna.html
I took the 0945 train to Bologna and arrived in time for an early lunch. This restaurant recommendation I got from Fodorites, and it did not disappoint. It was overcast and cool that day, and I was really looking forward to my first taste of Bologna cuisine. I started with their famous Tagliatelle al Ragu Bolognese, which was divine, and nothing like the tomato sauce covered concoctions one generally gets in Italian restaurants in UK and North America. It is heavy and I probably should have ordered it as a main rather than a starter. I followed with a Guinea fowl stew, which was also delicious, but I couldn’t finish it, as I was stuffed to the gills. Beware: Food in Bologna is heavy and rich and absolutely delicious. Decor is plain – its all about the food.
With two glasses of wine and water, the bill was about 42 Euro.
Friday Day Eight: Bologna: Osteria Bottega
https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restau...a_Romagna.html
This tiny restaurant is a good 20 minutes schlep from the centre, so be prepared for the walk. Of course, it took me 30 minutes to get there, due to the fact I am directionally challenged. No matter, walking in Bologna is a complete joy, and the best thing you can do in this very beautiful city. It was raining again, but the medieval city fathers constructed and the covered walkways to shelter pedestrians.
I got to the restaurant early, and it was yet to open, as I know it is very popular, and wanted to ensure I got a table. The restaurant has few tables, so book ahead or get there early. The ‘Madam’, who runs the front-of-house, has little English, but makes up for it with genuine warmth and charm. The menu is in Italian/English/German, translated in an hilarious manner – I should have taken a picture!
They are famous for their cheese and cured meat starters which, as a single diner, is difficult to take advantage of. There is a mixed started for two of the ‘best of’ which you should definitely order if you are a party of two or more. I thought I should at least try something from that section of the menu, so I ordered some charming sounding dish like ‘Lardo from a black pig that lives up on the mountain’. I just love all bits of the blessed pig, so I ordered that, followed by the Pasta Ragu and then the roasted guinea fowl. My eyes were defiantly bigger than my stomach, but it was going to be a long lunch, as it was teeming rain outside.
The ‘Lardo’ was just that – I actually ate a half a plate of pig fat – thinly sliced, seasoned and delicious. I couldn’t finish it, and it is clearly meant for sharing. The Pasta Ragu was probably better than yesterday’s version. By the time the roasted Guinea fowl arrived, I didn’t have much appetite left. It was very good, but quite ‘gamey’. What I SHOULD have ordered as the main course was the Pigeon and sorry I didn’t, as it gets rave reviews.
Bill, with half litre of excellent wine and water, was about 40 Euros.
I know I keep saying ‘Not to be missed’, but trust me, this is a treasure and well worth the walk. Actually, you will need the before and after constitutional walk to work off those calories.
Next … Off to Ravenna
Thursday Day Seven: Bologna: Caminetto d’Ora
http://www.caminettodoro.it/
https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restau...a_Romagna.html
I took the 0945 train to Bologna and arrived in time for an early lunch. This restaurant recommendation I got from Fodorites, and it did not disappoint. It was overcast and cool that day, and I was really looking forward to my first taste of Bologna cuisine. I started with their famous Tagliatelle al Ragu Bolognese, which was divine, and nothing like the tomato sauce covered concoctions one generally gets in Italian restaurants in UK and North America. It is heavy and I probably should have ordered it as a main rather than a starter. I followed with a Guinea fowl stew, which was also delicious, but I couldn’t finish it, as I was stuffed to the gills. Beware: Food in Bologna is heavy and rich and absolutely delicious. Decor is plain – its all about the food.
With two glasses of wine and water, the bill was about 42 Euro.
Friday Day Eight: Bologna: Osteria Bottega
https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restau...a_Romagna.html
This tiny restaurant is a good 20 minutes schlep from the centre, so be prepared for the walk. Of course, it took me 30 minutes to get there, due to the fact I am directionally challenged. No matter, walking in Bologna is a complete joy, and the best thing you can do in this very beautiful city. It was raining again, but the medieval city fathers constructed and the covered walkways to shelter pedestrians.
I got to the restaurant early, and it was yet to open, as I know it is very popular, and wanted to ensure I got a table. The restaurant has few tables, so book ahead or get there early. The ‘Madam’, who runs the front-of-house, has little English, but makes up for it with genuine warmth and charm. The menu is in Italian/English/German, translated in an hilarious manner – I should have taken a picture!
They are famous for their cheese and cured meat starters which, as a single diner, is difficult to take advantage of. There is a mixed started for two of the ‘best of’ which you should definitely order if you are a party of two or more. I thought I should at least try something from that section of the menu, so I ordered some charming sounding dish like ‘Lardo from a black pig that lives up on the mountain’. I just love all bits of the blessed pig, so I ordered that, followed by the Pasta Ragu and then the roasted guinea fowl. My eyes were defiantly bigger than my stomach, but it was going to be a long lunch, as it was teeming rain outside.
The ‘Lardo’ was just that – I actually ate a half a plate of pig fat – thinly sliced, seasoned and delicious. I couldn’t finish it, and it is clearly meant for sharing. The Pasta Ragu was probably better than yesterday’s version. By the time the roasted Guinea fowl arrived, I didn’t have much appetite left. It was very good, but quite ‘gamey’. What I SHOULD have ordered as the main course was the Pigeon and sorry I didn’t, as it gets rave reviews.
Bill, with half litre of excellent wine and water, was about 40 Euros.
I know I keep saying ‘Not to be missed’, but trust me, this is a treasure and well worth the walk. Actually, you will need the before and after constitutional walk to work off those calories.
Next … Off to Ravenna
Oct 24th, 2016, 11:53 AM
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Ravenna
Be still my heart! This is a most beautiful town, and although I had seen pictures of the Mosaics, I was not prepared for their stunning beauty and workmanship. More about that later when I write about the sites.
Saturday Day Nine: Ravenna: Restaranto Osteria del Tempo Perso
http://www.osteriadeltempoperso.it/
https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restau...a_Romagna.html
Ravenna is a small, very ‘well-heeled’ town, and very elegant. I am sure there are lots of great restaurants. This one was not my first choice, but a very close second, and comes highly recommended for its ‘fusion’ dishes.
I stared with an ‘amuse bouche’ – a delicious carrot/ginger soup. This was followed by Fried shrimps with black rice and tomato-orange cream – very excellent fusion dish, which was pleasant after all the heavy traditional food I had had in Bologna. For the main course, I chose the pork loin stuffed with blackberries. It was good, but the pork was a little dry. Also, at this point, I think my palate was overloaded and I was getting too picky. I would recommend this restaurant, but I should have had the fish, as I had eaten way too much meat at this point in the trip.
I had a very good half bottle of white wine and I think the bill was around 45 Euros.
Next: Back to Bologna
Be still my heart! This is a most beautiful town, and although I had seen pictures of the Mosaics, I was not prepared for their stunning beauty and workmanship. More about that later when I write about the sites.
Saturday Day Nine: Ravenna: Restaranto Osteria del Tempo Perso
http://www.osteriadeltempoperso.it/
https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restau...a_Romagna.html
Ravenna is a small, very ‘well-heeled’ town, and very elegant. I am sure there are lots of great restaurants. This one was not my first choice, but a very close second, and comes highly recommended for its ‘fusion’ dishes.
I stared with an ‘amuse bouche’ – a delicious carrot/ginger soup. This was followed by Fried shrimps with black rice and tomato-orange cream – very excellent fusion dish, which was pleasant after all the heavy traditional food I had had in Bologna. For the main course, I chose the pork loin stuffed with blackberries. It was good, but the pork was a little dry. Also, at this point, I think my palate was overloaded and I was getting too picky. I would recommend this restaurant, but I should have had the fish, as I had eaten way too much meat at this point in the trip.
I had a very good half bottle of white wine and I think the bill was around 45 Euros.
Next: Back to Bologna
Oct 24th, 2016, 12:34 PM
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Sunday Day Ten: Bologna: Restaurant Cesarina
http://www.ristorantecesarina.it/
https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restau...a_Romagna.html
It was a simply glorious sunny day in Bologna, and I walked and walked and walked.
Restaurant Cesarina was a Foderite recommendation, and it was very good, but not spectacular.
It is located in one of the most beautiful Piazzas in Bologna. Please visit the church of Santo Stefano while you are in the area, and walk the surrounding streets.
I chose the Ricotta tortellini with sage butter as a starter, which was very tasty, and followed with the Osso Bucco. Very good food, but not the best I had in Bologna. Again, I am putting this down to a jaded palate. I had too much rich and delicious food at this point. I was also coming down with a cold.
With the usual half-bottle of good wine, the bill was around 45 Euros.
Next: Back to Rome
http://www.ristorantecesarina.it/
https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restau...a_Romagna.html
It was a simply glorious sunny day in Bologna, and I walked and walked and walked.
Restaurant Cesarina was a Foderite recommendation, and it was very good, but not spectacular.
It is located in one of the most beautiful Piazzas in Bologna. Please visit the church of Santo Stefano while you are in the area, and walk the surrounding streets.
I chose the Ricotta tortellini with sage butter as a starter, which was very tasty, and followed with the Osso Bucco. Very good food, but not the best I had in Bologna. Again, I am putting this down to a jaded palate. I had too much rich and delicious food at this point. I was also coming down with a cold.
With the usual half-bottle of good wine, the bill was around 45 Euros.
Next: Back to Rome
Oct 24th, 2016, 01:48 PM
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Monday Day 11: Hi Res
http://www.hotelvaladier.com/hi-res/hi-res.htm
https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restau...ome_Lazio.html
I took the 0745 train from Bologna, as I was missing Rome and its glorious sunshine, and had so much still to do. Unfortunately, I woke up with a sore throat and the sniffles. A big bad cold was on its way, and it has gotten worse since I returned. I am quite a sick puppy
I checked into the very wonderful Albergo del Senato – room was ready for me at 1030. I asked for a restaurant recommendation – something just lovely and posh, just in case I found myself up around Piazza di Spagna, as this was a shopping day, and I had eight pairs of gloves to buy for the sisters and nieces. They recommended Hi-Res, in the Hotel Valadier, just off Piazza del Popolo, as something different, but expensive, a roof-top restaurant with great views of the city.
As it happened, I was close to the Jewish Ghetto at lunch time, and would have dearly loved to go back to Piperno, but it is not open on Monday (nor are many very good restaurants). I really wanted to stay in the area and explore, so I tried another Katie Parla recommendation- Roscioli (http://www.roscioli.com/), but it was full at 1300! Another highly recommended restaurant in the area is Nonna Betta (http://www.nonnabetta.it/prenota/), but that is now so popular, you have to book in advance.
Exploring the Ghetto was just not meant to be. I was feeling quite ill at this point, so decided to grab a taxi and head to the Hi Res.
The food was absolutely delicious, and I wish I had been well enough to truly enjoy it. For 55 Euros, they offer a fixed price menu, and you can chose two courses (A la Carte meu price would be about 75 Euros for two courses).
The meal stared with an ‘Amuse Bouche’ soup, influenced by South Asian cuisine. There were various artisan breads and a very delicious olive oil from Lazio for dipping.
I chose the Seared Prawns in a very mild coconut curry as a starter, and followed with the Iberian Pork Shoulder as the main course. The courses are small, as on a tasting menu, and absolutely perfect. It was a blessed relief from the really heavy food I had eaten previously.
The service was exemplary: the restaurant was almost empty, so I had TWO waiters serving.
The meal, with two glasses of good wine and water came to 88 Euros, which is far more than I had spent to date in any restaurant. Was it worth it?: YES indeed and I would go back in a heartbeat. It is at a completely different level.
This is quite an expensive restaurant in comparison with those in which I had previously dined, but the food is worth the money, and less costly than its equivalent in London. Go for the ‘fixed price’ menu to keep costs down.
BTW, re the view ….. Its mostly of the rooftops in the area. If you hang over the edge on one side, you can see the Piazza del Popolo. This would be a great place for cocktails or wine before dinner, if you don’t want to spend the money in the restaurant.
Next: My last days in Rome
http://www.hotelvaladier.com/hi-res/hi-res.htm
https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restau...ome_Lazio.html
I took the 0745 train from Bologna, as I was missing Rome and its glorious sunshine, and had so much still to do. Unfortunately, I woke up with a sore throat and the sniffles. A big bad cold was on its way, and it has gotten worse since I returned. I am quite a sick puppy
I checked into the very wonderful Albergo del Senato – room was ready for me at 1030. I asked for a restaurant recommendation – something just lovely and posh, just in case I found myself up around Piazza di Spagna, as this was a shopping day, and I had eight pairs of gloves to buy for the sisters and nieces. They recommended Hi-Res, in the Hotel Valadier, just off Piazza del Popolo, as something different, but expensive, a roof-top restaurant with great views of the city.
As it happened, I was close to the Jewish Ghetto at lunch time, and would have dearly loved to go back to Piperno, but it is not open on Monday (nor are many very good restaurants). I really wanted to stay in the area and explore, so I tried another Katie Parla recommendation- Roscioli (http://www.roscioli.com/), but it was full at 1300! Another highly recommended restaurant in the area is Nonna Betta (http://www.nonnabetta.it/prenota/), but that is now so popular, you have to book in advance.
Exploring the Ghetto was just not meant to be. I was feeling quite ill at this point, so decided to grab a taxi and head to the Hi Res.
The food was absolutely delicious, and I wish I had been well enough to truly enjoy it. For 55 Euros, they offer a fixed price menu, and you can chose two courses (A la Carte meu price would be about 75 Euros for two courses).
The meal stared with an ‘Amuse Bouche’ soup, influenced by South Asian cuisine. There were various artisan breads and a very delicious olive oil from Lazio for dipping.
I chose the Seared Prawns in a very mild coconut curry as a starter, and followed with the Iberian Pork Shoulder as the main course. The courses are small, as on a tasting menu, and absolutely perfect. It was a blessed relief from the really heavy food I had eaten previously.
The service was exemplary: the restaurant was almost empty, so I had TWO waiters serving.
The meal, with two glasses of good wine and water came to 88 Euros, which is far more than I had spent to date in any restaurant. Was it worth it?: YES indeed and I would go back in a heartbeat. It is at a completely different level.
This is quite an expensive restaurant in comparison with those in which I had previously dined, but the food is worth the money, and less costly than its equivalent in London. Go for the ‘fixed price’ menu to keep costs down.
BTW, re the view ….. Its mostly of the rooftops in the area. If you hang over the edge on one side, you can see the Piazza del Popolo. This would be a great place for cocktails or wine before dinner, if you don’t want to spend the money in the restaurant.
Next: My last days in Rome
