Ger’s Paris Trip Report: February 2017
Mar 6th, 2017, 11:17 AM
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Monday Morning: A Trip to Saint Denis
It was a cold grey morning.
I took the bus, just up the road, to Montparnasse station, and was there in 15 minutes, then a 40 minute trip, on M13, to Basilique De St-Denis; Be careful about the destination, as the line splits at some point, so get on the right train – you want the one whose final destination is Saint-Denis-Université
I had read that the area around Saint Denis Cathedral was not great – and yes, it is a rather skanky area. From a London perspective, its like visiting London, wanting to visit Westminster Cathedral, and arriving at Lewisham, only worse. I suggest you don’t plan to have lunch there. Its not violent or anything, its just bloody ugly and depressing.
Here is some information on Basilique De St-Denis to help with our planning:
http://www.saint-denis-basilique.fr/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basilica_of_St_Denis
Here are my pictures from the trip to Basilique De St-Denis:
pix.sfly.com/X_8V47_j
This was one of the ‘new things’ on my list. I had wanted to see it for many years, and never managed to make it there.
My first sight of the Basilica: I was shocked, as the facade was not what I had expected at all. Every picture I had seen of it in the past portrayed a black and ominous edifice that conveyed a message of hell and eternal damnation. Not at all: The edifice was a gleaming white vision of delicate loveliness, offering the hope of eternal salvation. Please forgive me, having been bought up a Catholic, I still have these images imprinted on my soul.
They started cleaning the muck of centuries off the building in 2012, and it is now restored it to its original pristine white stone. It looks amazing, and completely out of context with is dismal surroundings
A church had existed there from the 7th century but, in the early 12th century, it was rebuilt.
Think of it. Saint Denis Basilica heralded Europe’s shift from the Romanesque to the Gothic. It is built on a plain, and its radiant white stone would have been visible for miles around - a beacon of light for weary medieval pilgrims, on their way from Canterbury to Santiago de Compestella, and a promise of salvation. Its architecture was innovative and unique, and appeared to defy the laws of gravity (although, clearly, the Law of Gravity had yet to be discovered). How astonished the pilgrims must have been to enter this church and see the massive pillars, the vaulted ceilings and the extraordinary stained glass windows.
In the 21st century, I was captivated and enthralled at its elegance and beauty: how much more shocking must this have been to someone viewing for the first time in the 12th Century?
All that verbiage, I have not even entered the church!
Entrance to the Basilica is free, though the main door to the right. Entrance to “Discover the last resting place of the Kings of France and its unique collection of 70 sculpted tombs” costs you 8 Euros, audio guide extra, and entrance is on the right side of the Basilica. I bought the audio guide – I am not sure it is necessary, as all exhibits are well described.
The funereal statuary are very worth seeing, and some are very accomplished. I am rather fond of statuary from the medieval period, and this is the ‘Who’s-Who’ of the most important dead ancestors in Europe royalty.
Of course, I had to see the rather kitsch statues of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette. Very sad, is the memorial to their son, containing his heart – the poor little boy did no harm to anyone.
Then, I explored the church. It is the Gothic architecture and stained glass windows that are worth coming to see. Excuse my following ramblings, but this IS how I felt when I was there.
For the time, this building was innovative and technologically challenging, as it have never been done before on this scale – it was similar to building a rocket to the moon in the 1960s. It was creating ‘heaven on earth’, telling the story of Christianity to the great mass of illiterate worshippers, in a visual narrative.
It was a labour of love and devotion, created by unknown artists and artisans, worshiping their God, honouring their craft and stretching their talents beyond anything that had been done before.
It is a temple to a well-loved God, but also a temple to the astonishing talents of man, and his compulsion to create extraordinary art.
A word of warning. It was cold outside, but much bloody colder inside – dress warm.
Back in Paris, I had lunch close to the Musée de Cluny.
Next: Musée de Cluny: A continuation of my Medieval journey
It was a cold grey morning.
I took the bus, just up the road, to Montparnasse station, and was there in 15 minutes, then a 40 minute trip, on M13, to Basilique De St-Denis; Be careful about the destination, as the line splits at some point, so get on the right train – you want the one whose final destination is Saint-Denis-Université
I had read that the area around Saint Denis Cathedral was not great – and yes, it is a rather skanky area. From a London perspective, its like visiting London, wanting to visit Westminster Cathedral, and arriving at Lewisham, only worse. I suggest you don’t plan to have lunch there. Its not violent or anything, its just bloody ugly and depressing.
Here is some information on Basilique De St-Denis to help with our planning:
http://www.saint-denis-basilique.fr/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basilica_of_St_Denis
Here are my pictures from the trip to Basilique De St-Denis:
pix.sfly.com/X_8V47_j
This was one of the ‘new things’ on my list. I had wanted to see it for many years, and never managed to make it there.
My first sight of the Basilica: I was shocked, as the facade was not what I had expected at all. Every picture I had seen of it in the past portrayed a black and ominous edifice that conveyed a message of hell and eternal damnation. Not at all: The edifice was a gleaming white vision of delicate loveliness, offering the hope of eternal salvation. Please forgive me, having been bought up a Catholic, I still have these images imprinted on my soul.
They started cleaning the muck of centuries off the building in 2012, and it is now restored it to its original pristine white stone. It looks amazing, and completely out of context with is dismal surroundings
A church had existed there from the 7th century but, in the early 12th century, it was rebuilt.
Think of it. Saint Denis Basilica heralded Europe’s shift from the Romanesque to the Gothic. It is built on a plain, and its radiant white stone would have been visible for miles around - a beacon of light for weary medieval pilgrims, on their way from Canterbury to Santiago de Compestella, and a promise of salvation. Its architecture was innovative and unique, and appeared to defy the laws of gravity (although, clearly, the Law of Gravity had yet to be discovered). How astonished the pilgrims must have been to enter this church and see the massive pillars, the vaulted ceilings and the extraordinary stained glass windows.
In the 21st century, I was captivated and enthralled at its elegance and beauty: how much more shocking must this have been to someone viewing for the first time in the 12th Century?
All that verbiage, I have not even entered the church!
Entrance to the Basilica is free, though the main door to the right. Entrance to “Discover the last resting place of the Kings of France and its unique collection of 70 sculpted tombs” costs you 8 Euros, audio guide extra, and entrance is on the right side of the Basilica. I bought the audio guide – I am not sure it is necessary, as all exhibits are well described.
The funereal statuary are very worth seeing, and some are very accomplished. I am rather fond of statuary from the medieval period, and this is the ‘Who’s-Who’ of the most important dead ancestors in Europe royalty.
Of course, I had to see the rather kitsch statues of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette. Very sad, is the memorial to their son, containing his heart – the poor little boy did no harm to anyone.
Then, I explored the church. It is the Gothic architecture and stained glass windows that are worth coming to see. Excuse my following ramblings, but this IS how I felt when I was there.
For the time, this building was innovative and technologically challenging, as it have never been done before on this scale – it was similar to building a rocket to the moon in the 1960s. It was creating ‘heaven on earth’, telling the story of Christianity to the great mass of illiterate worshippers, in a visual narrative.
It was a labour of love and devotion, created by unknown artists and artisans, worshiping their God, honouring their craft and stretching their talents beyond anything that had been done before.
It is a temple to a well-loved God, but also a temple to the astonishing talents of man, and his compulsion to create extraordinary art.
A word of warning. It was cold outside, but much bloody colder inside – dress warm.
Back in Paris, I had lunch close to the Musée de Cluny.
Next: Musée de Cluny: A continuation of my Medieval journey
Mar 6th, 2017, 12:34 PM
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Monday Afternoon: Musée de Cluny: A continuation of my medieval journey
Musée de Cluny, I had visited a couple of times before, but not recently. I remembered it with affection, and wanted to visit again on this trip.
Here is some information on Musée de Cluny to help with your planning:
http://www.musee-moyenage.fr/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mus%C3...Moyen_%C3%82ge
Here are my pictures from the visit:
pix.sfly.com/f3z6MCJz
London has extraordinary large and important collections of medieval art, in the National Gallery, the British Museum and Victoria and Albert Museum. However, there was always something special about the Cluny.
I am not going to say much about this visit, other than there are some absolute treasure you will not see anywhere else. You see the embryo of the Renaissance emerging, by the sophistication on the draping of the gowns, the emergence of real people in the faces.
In particular, there are the series of tapestries of “The Lady and the Unicorn”, which must be seen up close to truly appreciate. I would compare it to viewing Claude Monet's Water Lilies at Musée de l'Orangerie.
http://www.tchevalier.com/unicorn/tapestries/
I still had some energy left, so I headed to the Consiergerie, as it had been several years since I had been there.
http://www.paris-conciergerie.fr/
It is educational about the Revolution, with interesting visual displays, in both French and English. Might be interesting for kids, and those not familiar with the Revolution. But, I know a lot about the Revolution, and have read exhaustively on the topic since I was 15 until now, so not particularly edifying for me. I thought in the past the Consiergerie was more interesting. A bit of a dud IMO.
Decision: Hop on a bus or walk? I still had too much energy to dissipate. I walked back toward the hotel and picked up a roasted chicken and bottle of wine on the Rue Mouffetard on the way.
Showered, drank a glass or two or wine, feasted on bits of roasted chicken, and planned my day in Rouen.
Next: A Pilgrimage to Rouen.
Regards ... Ger
Musée de Cluny, I had visited a couple of times before, but not recently. I remembered it with affection, and wanted to visit again on this trip.
Here is some information on Musée de Cluny to help with your planning:
http://www.musee-moyenage.fr/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mus%C3...Moyen_%C3%82ge
Here are my pictures from the visit:
pix.sfly.com/f3z6MCJz
London has extraordinary large and important collections of medieval art, in the National Gallery, the British Museum and Victoria and Albert Museum. However, there was always something special about the Cluny.
I am not going to say much about this visit, other than there are some absolute treasure you will not see anywhere else. You see the embryo of the Renaissance emerging, by the sophistication on the draping of the gowns, the emergence of real people in the faces.
In particular, there are the series of tapestries of “The Lady and the Unicorn”, which must be seen up close to truly appreciate. I would compare it to viewing Claude Monet's Water Lilies at Musée de l'Orangerie.
http://www.tchevalier.com/unicorn/tapestries/
I still had some energy left, so I headed to the Consiergerie, as it had been several years since I had been there.
http://www.paris-conciergerie.fr/
It is educational about the Revolution, with interesting visual displays, in both French and English. Might be interesting for kids, and those not familiar with the Revolution. But, I know a lot about the Revolution, and have read exhaustively on the topic since I was 15 until now, so not particularly edifying for me. I thought in the past the Consiergerie was more interesting. A bit of a dud IMO.
Decision: Hop on a bus or walk? I still had too much energy to dissipate. I walked back toward the hotel and picked up a roasted chicken and bottle of wine on the Rue Mouffetard on the way.
Showered, drank a glass or two or wine, feasted on bits of roasted chicken, and planned my day in Rouen.
Next: A Pilgrimage to Rouen.
Regards ... Ger
Mar 6th, 2017, 01:00 PM
#43
A word of warning. It was cold outside, but much bloody colder inside – dress warm.>>
that's my abiding memory of St Denis too, Ger. It was perishing - and the same time of year too. However afterwards we got warm cheering the England Rugby team at the nearby Stade de France [I seem to remember that we lost].
I think we went to the Musee de Cluny on that same trip, and though we enjoyed it, we were not blown away by the tapestries. Monet, OTOH.....
that's my abiding memory of St Denis too, Ger. It was perishing - and the same time of year too. However afterwards we got warm cheering the England Rugby team at the nearby Stade de France [I seem to remember that we lost].
I think we went to the Musee de Cluny on that same trip, and though we enjoyed it, we were not blown away by the tapestries. Monet, OTOH.....
Mar 6th, 2017, 01:09 PM
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Ann: I have a rugby moment to share later. My darling Niece made me go out to an Irish pub in the Latin Quarter to watch Ireland slaughter France! I would have prefered to do it in the hotel in my PJs.
Mar 6th, 2017, 01:22 PM
#45
come on Ger - let's have the story. you poor thing, having to watch it in a pub - quel horreur!
reminds me of when DH and I went to Madrid one February weekend. to my surprise [how stupid can you be] the first place we "happened" to end up in was an Irish pub where they were showing the Saturday afternoon 6 nations' matches. first up - Italy v Scotland - the match when Italy scored in the first minute as I recall. The second match, Ireland v England, we lost. oh the shame.
reminds me of when DH and I went to Madrid one February weekend. to my surprise [how stupid can you be] the first place we "happened" to end up in was an Irish pub where they were showing the Saturday afternoon 6 nations' matches. first up - Italy v Scotland - the match when Italy scored in the first minute as I recall. The second match, Ireland v England, we lost. oh the shame.
Mar 6th, 2017, 02:05 PM
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Ann:
The Fields of Athenry: A beautiful Irish ballad, that was sung by the Irish soccer supporters during the World Cup in France last year, with dignity, pride, on key, and knowing the words.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zr1rzSSMsac
The hoards in the pub that night, most of whom were NOT Irish, were so bollocked drunk that they could not hold the tune and did not know the words. It was a national embarrassment! They let the side down.
I was appalled!
The Fields of Athenry: A beautiful Irish ballad, that was sung by the Irish soccer supporters during the World Cup in France last year, with dignity, pride, on key, and knowing the words.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zr1rzSSMsac
The hoards in the pub that night, most of whom were NOT Irish, were so bollocked drunk that they could not hold the tune and did not know the words. It was a national embarrassment! They let the side down.
I was appalled!
Mar 6th, 2017, 06:38 PM
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After 10 or so trips to Paris, we finally went to the Cluny last March and I loved the tapestries. They were stunning. I also found St. Denis extremely cold. We froze. I am really enjoying your trip report. Thank you for taking the time to write it.
Mar 6th, 2017, 10:39 PM
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OReilly wonderful report, and thanks for including the restaurant reviews. I intend to review pertinent parts and take notes for our upcoming trip in September.
It's a beautiful ballad, by the way.
Just a comment on kerouac's Orsay vs D'Orsay. We have an ongoing joke about the time my husband asked for "the il conto" in Italy.
It's a beautiful ballad, by the way.
Just a comment on kerouac's Orsay vs D'Orsay. We have an ongoing joke about the time my husband asked for "the il conto" in Italy.
Mar 7th, 2017, 12:22 PM
#54
Just a comment on kerouac's Orsay vs D'Orsay. We have an ongoing joke about the time my husband asked for "the il conto" in Italy>>
dare I mention "with au jus" in that context, sundried? Not that you would ever say that of course.
Ger - to my shame I didn't know that that was the name of the song being sung by the Irish fans who I agree were some of the stars of the show. And the Welsh and the Icelanders.
Not, sadly the English, either on or off the pitch.
dare I mention "with au jus" in that context, sundried? Not that you would ever say that of course.
Ger - to my shame I didn't know that that was the name of the song being sung by the Irish fans who I agree were some of the stars of the show. And the Welsh and the Icelanders.
Not, sadly the English, either on or off the pitch.
Mar 7th, 2017, 06:17 PM
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Ger, what fun to read your report. You tried some of my favorite restaurants and gave passing grades to a couple that disappointed me once too often, but well done nonetheless!
Pottoka was my secret (and that of many others I'm sure) for several years and then became more widely known. Good to hear it's still good. L'Ange 20 sounds like a must for next time.
Eating at les Papilles can be a challenge to those of us who were taught to finish what we were served, but oh, it's so good you feel you must do it, or at least I try. In answer to your question about how it works, no you have no choices, so it's not a good place for people who have food issues. Luckily though they rarely do anything really odd.
There is always a soup, served from the terrine into your plate, which has some cut-up ingredients awaiting their bath of liquid. That is followed by the main course, always served from a casserole onto your plate. This is usually a braise of meat or poultry. I don't think in many visits I've ever had fish. A bit of cheese and salad next, then a dessert. Bertrand, the owner (he of the tattoos) has always selected good and not overly expensive matching wines at our request. Since the resto is also a wine shop the cost is a modest markup on the retail price. Sorry you and your niece weren't happy with the choice. Did you ask to change it? I suspect he would have agreed to do so, but who knows.
I would agree that steering people away from Au Pied de Cochon is a good deed. You may have been lucky with your steak but everything I've tried at this over-priced tourist trap over the last years has been virtually inedible. I've finally stopped hoping for better.
Good for you having learned the wonder of the bus system. Unless you're in a major hurry there's no reason to go underground when one can enjoy the city above.
Pottoka was my secret (and that of many others I'm sure) for several years and then became more widely known. Good to hear it's still good. L'Ange 20 sounds like a must for next time.
Eating at les Papilles can be a challenge to those of us who were taught to finish what we were served, but oh, it's so good you feel you must do it, or at least I try. In answer to your question about how it works, no you have no choices, so it's not a good place for people who have food issues. Luckily though they rarely do anything really odd.
There is always a soup, served from the terrine into your plate, which has some cut-up ingredients awaiting their bath of liquid. That is followed by the main course, always served from a casserole onto your plate. This is usually a braise of meat or poultry. I don't think in many visits I've ever had fish. A bit of cheese and salad next, then a dessert. Bertrand, the owner (he of the tattoos) has always selected good and not overly expensive matching wines at our request. Since the resto is also a wine shop the cost is a modest markup on the retail price. Sorry you and your niece weren't happy with the choice. Did you ask to change it? I suspect he would have agreed to do so, but who knows.
I would agree that steering people away from Au Pied de Cochon is a good deed. You may have been lucky with your steak but everything I've tried at this over-priced tourist trap over the last years has been virtually inedible. I've finally stopped hoping for better.
Good for you having learned the wonder of the bus system. Unless you're in a major hurry there's no reason to go underground when one can enjoy the city above.
Mar 9th, 2017, 12:00 PM
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Thank you all, once again, for your feedback.
Sorry about the silence, I have been in Birmingham for the last few days with a client. I'll probably be there three days a week for the next three weeks. In order to afford to go to Paris, I must do penance in Birmingham . I can't say I love the city, however, the people of Birmingham are very warm, kind and friendly.
shellio: Your description of dining at Les Papilles is invaluable, and I wish I had had it before I visited. Those of you that intend to dine there, and you absolutely should, take note, so you are prepared for this great experience. Au Pied de Cochon: Steak was fine, but, as I said, overpriced, and service marginal. Agree, I will not go back.
Pottaka: Oh Dear, now so many of us know about it, it is clearly NOT a secret anymore. One day in the future, there may be a line-up of Fodorites outside this restaurant fighting each other for a table.
If you are a fan of Basque food, and in London, try http://www.eneko.london/. And, you must read The Basque History of the World, if it still in print: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Basque-Hist.../dp/0099284138
Oh Lord, my “awful” experience in the Louvre was nothing terribly awful, in the grand scheme of things. I want to assure everyone that I was not mugged in an alley, my bag was not stolen, and nobody punched me, or was even rude to me. It was simply a matter of high expectations, and extreme disappointment, and I am now feeling very embarrassed for mentioning it.
Best regards … Ger
Sorry about the silence, I have been in Birmingham for the last few days with a client. I'll probably be there three days a week for the next three weeks. In order to afford to go to Paris, I must do penance in Birmingham
. I can't say I love the city, however, the people of Birmingham are very warm, kind and friendly.shellio: Your description of dining at Les Papilles is invaluable, and I wish I had had it before I visited. Those of you that intend to dine there, and you absolutely should, take note, so you are prepared for this great experience. Au Pied de Cochon: Steak was fine, but, as I said, overpriced, and service marginal. Agree, I will not go back.
Pottaka: Oh Dear, now so many of us know about it, it is clearly NOT a secret anymore. One day in the future, there may be a line-up of Fodorites outside this restaurant fighting each other for a table
. If you are a fan of Basque food, and in London, try http://www.eneko.london/. And, you must read The Basque History of the World, if it still in print: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Basque-Hist.../dp/0099284138
Oh Lord, my “awful” experience in the Louvre was nothing terribly awful, in the grand scheme of things. I want to assure everyone that I was not mugged in an alley, my bag was not stolen, and nobody punched me, or was even rude to me. It was simply a matter of high expectations, and extreme disappointment, and I am now feeling very embarrassed for mentioning it.
Best regards … Ger
Mar 9th, 2017, 12:22 PM
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Hi OReilly - I'm enjoying your report -- and your restaurant recommendations. Last time I was at the Louvre I was having problems with my hip and was pretty uncomfortable from that and just suddenly felt overwhelmed by the Louvre -- it just seemed so much work to find your way around -- and had to leave after we'd only been less than an hour. Much prefer the Orsay or the Orangerie.
Mar 18th, 2017, 04:54 AM
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Tuesday 21st February: A Pilgrimage to Rouen
I had looked at various options for a day-trip out of Paris. Some, I discounted because of the cost, as I had not booked well in advance.
Rouen emerged due to three factors:
• It was a cheap day-trip (12-16 Euros each way, at short notice)
• I have had a long and abiding love for Jeanne D'Arc (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Joan_of_Arc), since I was about eleven years old – she was my first female hero. I admired her bravery, her FU attitude and her insistence at playing on a level playing field with men. I also have to say, I was astonished at her ‘gifts’ – her apparent prescience, for want of a better word, and her military capabilities, that could not have been learned – spooky! However, I could never have made that ultimate sacrifice for either God or Country.
• Architecture, a personal passion. The Medieval cathedral, celebrated in numerous paintings by Monet, and of course the timbered buildings.
Here are some resources to help you with your planning:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rouen
http://www.rouentourisme.com/en/
http://mbarouen.fr/en
I took a bus, from just around the corner from the hotel, to ST LAZARE station (30 minutes door to station, as promised on the RATP.FR website/app) to catch the 0853 train to Rouen. I was very surprised how light the traffic is in Paris at that time of the morning, particular crossing from the Left to the right Bank. In London, it is now complete pandemonium in the city, due to roadworks, and I would never rely on a bus to get me from A to B in time, certainly if crossing from the South to the North Bank of the river. Well done Paris - I am very impressed!
With plenty of time to spare, I found the platform, got on-board and enjoyed the short trip to Rouen.
I had left a cold but sunny Paris just over an hour before, and arrived in a grey and miserable Rouen. I felt I was home in Dublin!
In the same way the Eskimos/Sami may have dozens of words for snow, the Irish may have an equal number of words for rain. I was to experience several versions of rain during the day. No wonder our Norman invaders felt so happy in Ireland and we could not extricate the bastards – Ireland felt like their own homeland of Normandy.
This might help you understand the Irish relationship with rain, ‘tongue in cheek’ obviously:
http://www.dailyedge.ie/irish-rain-s...75040-Jan2014/
When I arrived, it was what we Irish call a ‘soft rain’, meaning there is a visible mist in the air, coming at you from every side, neither warm nor cold, and you can’t actually see a raindrop, and it is futile to use an umbrella.
The Tourism Office is in Place de la Cathedrale, about 10 minutes’ walk from the train station. Go there first. There was a very warm welcome, and the young staff were delighted to help me plan my visit to Rouen. I was very disappointed that the Musée des Beaux-Arts was closed on Tuesday. Very bad planning on my part – I SHOULD have checked this out before planning to be in Rouen on Tuesday - I am so angry with myself for making such a basic mistake! I picked up an audio guide and map that takes you through the highlights of the town. Highly recommended for a day-trip.
The Guided tour starts in front of the glorious cathedral.
Here are my pictures for the day. They are not great, and do not do justice to the town:
pix.sfly.com/yhVUSVAV
By the time I left the Tourist Office, the rain had moved to ‘Spitting Rain’, so I was glad to escape into the Cathedral for shelter.
http://www.cathedrale-rouen.net/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rouen_Cathedral
The Cathedral’s glorious Gothic Façade is of course famous for its many wonderful paintings by Claude Monet.
Inside, the stained glass windows are numerous and extraordinary. In addition, there are the tombs of the Dukes of Normandy, including Richard the Lionheart.
By the time I left the Cathedral, there was’ Wetting Rain’. Other tourists, who were clearly NOT Irish (nor perhaps Scottish nor Welsh), sought shelter in cafés, waiting for the rain to clear. I, being Irish, knew that the rain would NOT clear any time soon, so I trooped on, exploring the town.
I had high expectations, and these were exceeded. I had not expected to see such a large variety of the famed timbered houses – street upon street, dating from the Middle-Ages.
I headed to the Church of St. Maclou, another beautiful church, in the flamboyant Gothic style, with magnificent carved doorways, constructed with great artistry and devotion by unknown craftsmen. Just around the corner is the St. Maclou Ossuary, the last necropolis to be found in a city centre, its origins dating back to the great plague of 1348.
I then proceeded down the very picturesque Rue Dammiette, now tenanted by fancy antique shops. Further on is the equally lovely Rue Eue des Robes, once the centre of the linen-making area, and then on to the large and impressive Saint Ouen Abbey Church, built in the 14th century. Unfortunately, it had closed early for lunch, so I headed back to the St. Maclou to have a very mediocre lunch.
I continued my exploration after lunch, when the rain was bordering on ‘rotten rain’, still insufficient for a hardy Irish person to take shelter. The attraction of exploring in the rain is that one tends to have the grey miserable streets all to oneself, so well worth the drenching!
I eventually made my way to the perfectly gorgeous market Square and the Church of Jeanne D’Arc. After a few solemn moments of reflection at the spot where she was burned (cruelly roasted as it turns out, as the pyre had been built high so all could see). Also, it was normal for the executioner to strangle the victim before the pyre was lit, but this was not possible due to the height of the pyre, so she died an unnecessarily horrible death. Interestingly, she was condemned to death based on a bizarre and almost never used technicality - a Biblical clothing law, as she continued to insist to dress as a man when in prison, probably to protect herself from rape.
The modern church, built in 1979, is truly beautiful, its roof representing an overturned boat, and the colourful stained glass windows come from the 16th century Church of Saint Vincent. Candles were lit and prayers were said for family and friends struggling with illness.
Back outside, I headed back toward the Cathedral, taking in the Hotel de Bourgtheroulde, a magnificent town-house from the early Renaissance, now a very exclusive hotel. Then, down the Rue de Horloge to see the imposing clock, originally built in the 14th Century.
I dropped the audio guide back at the tourist office, and headed back to St. Ouen cathedral to explore the inside – more flamboyant gothic architecture and glorious stained glass windows.
Still having some time to kill before my train at 1650, I headed toward the train station to the Museum of Antiquities. It is small, and houses an eclectic collection of items from Greek, Roman, Medieval and Renaissance periods. I was very lucky that day, as it had an exhibition of illuminated manuscripts; mediaeval and Renaissance collections of Normandy’s museums and collections.
http://museedesantiquites.fr/en
Back to the train station in time for my train back to Paris.
Reflections on the trip to Rouen:
Rouen is a perfect day out from Paris – fascinating, different, cheap and close. Highly recommended for those of you, like myself, that have been to Paris many, many times, and also for those that perhaps have ten or more days in Paris. In winter, you have to be aware that your day ends at about 1600 because of the light, but if visiting in spring or summer, take advantage of the longer days, set out early and stay later. Don’t do as I did, and miss out on the Fine Arts Museum!
Rouen also has enough treasures and sights to enjoy for a 2-3 day stay so, if in Normandy, plan to spend at least a night there.
Next: An Art Frenzy: Museo de Orsay, MUSÉE DE L'ORANGERIE, Marmottan
I had looked at various options for a day-trip out of Paris. Some, I discounted because of the cost, as I had not booked well in advance.
Rouen emerged due to three factors:
• It was a cheap day-trip (12-16 Euros each way, at short notice)
• I have had a long and abiding love for Jeanne D'Arc (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Joan_of_Arc), since I was about eleven years old – she was my first female hero. I admired her bravery, her FU attitude and her insistence at playing on a level playing field with men. I also have to say, I was astonished at her ‘gifts’ – her apparent prescience, for want of a better word, and her military capabilities, that could not have been learned – spooky! However, I could never have made that ultimate sacrifice for either God or Country.
• Architecture, a personal passion. The Medieval cathedral, celebrated in numerous paintings by Monet, and of course the timbered buildings.
Here are some resources to help you with your planning:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rouen
http://www.rouentourisme.com/en/
http://mbarouen.fr/en
I took a bus, from just around the corner from the hotel, to ST LAZARE station (30 minutes door to station, as promised on the RATP.FR website/app) to catch the 0853 train to Rouen. I was very surprised how light the traffic is in Paris at that time of the morning, particular crossing from the Left to the right Bank. In London, it is now complete pandemonium in the city, due to roadworks, and I would never rely on a bus to get me from A to B in time, certainly if crossing from the South to the North Bank of the river. Well done Paris - I am very impressed!
With plenty of time to spare, I found the platform, got on-board and enjoyed the short trip to Rouen.
I had left a cold but sunny Paris just over an hour before, and arrived in a grey and miserable Rouen. I felt I was home in Dublin!
In the same way the Eskimos/Sami may have dozens of words for snow, the Irish may have an equal number of words for rain. I was to experience several versions of rain during the day. No wonder our Norman invaders felt so happy in Ireland and we could not extricate the bastards – Ireland felt like their own homeland of Normandy.
This might help you understand the Irish relationship with rain, ‘tongue in cheek’ obviously:
http://www.dailyedge.ie/irish-rain-s...75040-Jan2014/
When I arrived, it was what we Irish call a ‘soft rain’, meaning there is a visible mist in the air, coming at you from every side, neither warm nor cold, and you can’t actually see a raindrop, and it is futile to use an umbrella.
The Tourism Office is in Place de la Cathedrale, about 10 minutes’ walk from the train station. Go there first. There was a very warm welcome, and the young staff were delighted to help me plan my visit to Rouen. I was very disappointed that the Musée des Beaux-Arts was closed on Tuesday. Very bad planning on my part – I SHOULD have checked this out before planning to be in Rouen on Tuesday - I am so angry with myself for making such a basic mistake! I picked up an audio guide and map that takes you through the highlights of the town. Highly recommended for a day-trip.
The Guided tour starts in front of the glorious cathedral.
Here are my pictures for the day. They are not great, and do not do justice to the town:
pix.sfly.com/yhVUSVAV
By the time I left the Tourist Office, the rain had moved to ‘Spitting Rain’, so I was glad to escape into the Cathedral for shelter.
http://www.cathedrale-rouen.net/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rouen_Cathedral
The Cathedral’s glorious Gothic Façade is of course famous for its many wonderful paintings by Claude Monet.
Inside, the stained glass windows are numerous and extraordinary. In addition, there are the tombs of the Dukes of Normandy, including Richard the Lionheart.
By the time I left the Cathedral, there was’ Wetting Rain’. Other tourists, who were clearly NOT Irish (nor perhaps Scottish nor Welsh), sought shelter in cafés, waiting for the rain to clear. I, being Irish, knew that the rain would NOT clear any time soon, so I trooped on, exploring the town.
I had high expectations, and these were exceeded. I had not expected to see such a large variety of the famed timbered houses – street upon street, dating from the Middle-Ages.
I headed to the Church of St. Maclou, another beautiful church, in the flamboyant Gothic style, with magnificent carved doorways, constructed with great artistry and devotion by unknown craftsmen. Just around the corner is the St. Maclou Ossuary, the last necropolis to be found in a city centre, its origins dating back to the great plague of 1348.
I then proceeded down the very picturesque Rue Dammiette, now tenanted by fancy antique shops. Further on is the equally lovely Rue Eue des Robes, once the centre of the linen-making area, and then on to the large and impressive Saint Ouen Abbey Church, built in the 14th century. Unfortunately, it had closed early for lunch, so I headed back to the St. Maclou to have a very mediocre lunch.
I continued my exploration after lunch, when the rain was bordering on ‘rotten rain’, still insufficient for a hardy Irish person to take shelter. The attraction of exploring in the rain is that one tends to have the grey miserable streets all to oneself, so well worth the drenching!
I eventually made my way to the perfectly gorgeous market Square and the Church of Jeanne D’Arc. After a few solemn moments of reflection at the spot where she was burned (cruelly roasted as it turns out, as the pyre had been built high so all could see). Also, it was normal for the executioner to strangle the victim before the pyre was lit, but this was not possible due to the height of the pyre, so she died an unnecessarily horrible death. Interestingly, she was condemned to death based on a bizarre and almost never used technicality - a Biblical clothing law, as she continued to insist to dress as a man when in prison, probably to protect herself from rape.
The modern church, built in 1979, is truly beautiful, its roof representing an overturned boat, and the colourful stained glass windows come from the 16th century Church of Saint Vincent. Candles were lit and prayers were said for family and friends struggling with illness.
Back outside, I headed back toward the Cathedral, taking in the Hotel de Bourgtheroulde, a magnificent town-house from the early Renaissance, now a very exclusive hotel. Then, down the Rue de Horloge to see the imposing clock, originally built in the 14th Century.
I dropped the audio guide back at the tourist office, and headed back to St. Ouen cathedral to explore the inside – more flamboyant gothic architecture and glorious stained glass windows.
Still having some time to kill before my train at 1650, I headed toward the train station to the Museum of Antiquities. It is small, and houses an eclectic collection of items from Greek, Roman, Medieval and Renaissance periods. I was very lucky that day, as it had an exhibition of illuminated manuscripts; mediaeval and Renaissance collections of Normandy’s museums and collections.
http://museedesantiquites.fr/en
Back to the train station in time for my train back to Paris.
Reflections on the trip to Rouen:
Rouen is a perfect day out from Paris – fascinating, different, cheap and close. Highly recommended for those of you, like myself, that have been to Paris many, many times, and also for those that perhaps have ten or more days in Paris. In winter, you have to be aware that your day ends at about 1600 because of the light, but if visiting in spring or summer, take advantage of the longer days, set out early and stay later. Don’t do as I did, and miss out on the Fine Arts Museum!
Rouen also has enough treasures and sights to enjoy for a 2-3 day stay so, if in Normandy, plan to spend at least a night there.
Next: An Art Frenzy: Museo de Orsay, MUSÉE DE L'ORANGERIE, Marmottan
