Maribel

Now that is an outstanding bargain for sure!

ekscrunchy

After three nights at the HOTEL SAN FRANCISCO MONUMENTAL, at the edge of Santiago's old town, we packed up our ever-growing amount of cases and bags, and took a taxi to the rental outpost of Sixt, across from the train station. I had originally thought that we would collect our car at the airport but I changed my mind after seeing how distant the airport was from the city of Santiago. I used to be a confirmed AutoEurope/Kemwell customer but for the past few rentals in Spain and Italy, we have gravitated to SIXT and have been very happy with their prices and service.
(The automatic BMW that we rented was very comfortable, even if large. We prefer a GPS included, and we require an automatic. The price was about 100 euro per day which I know some will think is extortionate, but the automatic is not negotiable).

The drive to the Isla de la Toxa was very easy. Great roads and polite drivers. I did all of the driving, here and elsewhere.


I have to break here; we are in Lanzarote now, the second leg of our trip, and dinner time is fast approaching.....

ekscrunchy

Before I go into the La Toja section, I have to laugh, as I re-read what I wrote about the drivers in Galicia, and how polite we found them to be.

We are now in Lanzarote and I have never encountered drivers like this anywhere in Spain, or even in Italy!
They tail two inches from your rear. If you make the "mistake" of stopping at a red light, they honk the horn and let you have it with gestures...
Honestly I am shocked by the difference between here and the mainland and when I brought this up with the few locals I've met so far, they agreed that the drivers here are "the worst!" At first I thought it was because I was driving an obvious rental car but apparently that does not matter.....
Anyway, it's a little stressful but I can get myself into the zone where I do not care and just drive along at a pace that makes me comfortable. I do pull over if a huge line of cars has built up behind me....



So....LA TOJA.

This is a tiny island known for its reputation as a health resort with thermal waters. It's also the home of Magno La Toja black soap, that I have used for years. THE place to stay is the Grand Hotel La Toja, now part of Eurostars. This is a wonderful old-world hotel, but old world in the best sense. It is not dowdy or run down (as I had read in certain reviews on a famous travel site). The staff were as kind as they could be. We had a lovely room with a small balcony overlooking the river of Arousa where we watched small boats manned by fisherman in pursuit of clams, right in front of our room.

There is a thermal indoor spa (extra charge) and a heated outdoor pool large enough to do some good swimming. We had been told when we booked that these were shuttered but happily, both were open. There was a big wedding our first night there, a Saturday, but we were not bothered eat all by noise and it was great to look down on the festivities; apparently the families are very big in the "stone" business (this info from the front desk staff, no names offered). But the hotel has hosted everyone from the current and former King of Spain and many celebrities and I imagine that every year, entire families decamp to the cool climate of the Galician coast to refresh and relax. But it was not at all stuffy. We loved this hotel!!!!

Our first of two meals nearby was at CULLER DE PAU, a tasting menu-only restaurant in a handsome contemporary space overlooking the water and vast gardens the provide much of the produce that appears on the plates of diners fortunate enough to dine here. We depended on the GPs in our car, which led us astray, but we met up with a lovely woman who led us about 5 miles in her car to the restaurant, which is not very easy to find.

This is not my favorite type of restaurant as I approach some tasting menus as I would a marathon...a forced march through so many courses that make me full and tired about halfway through. But CULLER was so lovely, and the pace was perfect and we were not overwhelmed by too many courses....

I did not take any detailed notes, so will just post some photos of our dinner here. Suffice to say that I would recommend this restaurant to anyone who finds themselves in the area. Most unusual is the my partner, who has shunned fish for the 25 yers or so that I've known him, actually loved the food and happily devoured, for example, the raw shellfish on the menu..

The restaurant also has rooms for overnight guests.

I am so tired right now, (too much Canarian sun and wind..) so please forgive the paltry details of the dishes:




We were seated at a window table with a lovely view of the hurts and the sea beyond. Server explaining all the greens from the gardens the roll down to the sea.

Rich broth with seaweed, pork shoulder and spinach, among other ingredients...incredible. Look at the gorgeous hand-made napkins.

ekscrunchy

From Santiago, we rented a car at the railroad station from Sixt and drove to the Isla de La Toxa and I have to thank both Maribel and HappyTraveler for recommending the GH La Toxa, one of the classic old hotels of Europe and one that I would happily spend a few weeks during the summer season. I cannot say enough about the impeccable service, the kindness of the staff, and the lovely room that we had, overlooking the river where we watched the small boats searching for clams.

I think already talked a bit about our dinner at CULLER DE PAU (I am writing two reports at once; the other is a food-focused brief on another site, dedicated to food--www.hungryonion.org, a sort of successor to the late lamented Chowhound; forgive if I repeat myself here, please)

I just cannot rave enough about La Toxa, a tiny island connected by a bridge to the mainland town of O'Grove, famous for at least two wonderful restaurants focusing on Galician seafood. But the hotel itself is a charm....a "grand hotel" in every sense of the word. There are not all that many Southern European hotels that uphold the tradition these days and this is one of them...

From the hotel, we visited the former factory of Magno La Toja, makers of the lovely black soap that has occupied a place in my bathrooms for many years. It's now a lovely small museum with a shop that sells, of course, the Magno soap and other products.

Here are a few photos of the hotel, and the Magno museum/shop:

Bridge from O''Grove to La Isla de la Toxa

View from our room at GH La Toxa...

Breakfast area at GH La Toxa..truly a grand hotel!!

Former factory of Magno bath products, now a museum and shop

Classic ad for the bath products which are well known to everyone in Spain

Exterior of the Gran Hotel La Toxa, now a Eurostars property....a glorious old-world hotel that has hosted the former and current Kings of Spain, among other notables. When we were a wedding took place and was interesting to watch the festivities from our room.

Maribel

Very very Old World elegance of the very good kind. It looks exactly as I remembered it from a few years ago. Sigh, my first visit as a young girl, 1973,

ekscrunchy

Maribel, yes, that hotel brought back so many memories of other places in other times. It's wonderful that it still exists and is kept up so beautifully.


From La Toxa, we took a pretty, easy drive along the coastal route, through Sanxenxo to the small city of Pontevedra, a real gem and one I would deem essential in a visit to Galicia. The Parador is a lovely example of these government-run accommodations and everything, from the staff to the rooms to the public areas, lacked for nothing. There is no on-site parking (unless you happen to have a handicapped permit) but there is an underground garage (9 euro for 24 hours) a couple of blocks away. I can't say enough about the kindness of the staff here, and the handsomeness of the period rooms.

We had two nights in Pontevedra, and spent the days wandering around (I visited the food market, about a block from the Parador, on the water, and took a walk of about a half an hour into the commercial area, home to a wonderful food shop where I purchased many locals foodstuffs, mostly tins of seafood).

Here are a few pics of the exterior of the Parador, the food shop, and Pontevedra:




Drive to Pontevedra, along the coastal route; there is also a faster autoroute; notice Gallego language on sign

Exterior of the excellent Parador de Pontevedra; drop your bags here and park the car in nearby garage..9 euro for the day

Pontevedra scene

J Juncal, top food shop in Pontevedra commercial district, about 20 minutes' walk from Parador

Another shot of Parador exterior, formerly a residence and later an orphanage; wonderful place to stay in this charming small city

Maribel

Interesting eks,
Inside the gate in that stone courtyard they used to park guests' cars. We handed them our car key, and they parked for us (thank goodness!), but the next morning we went out and were amazed at how many cars they managed to squeeze into a space for no more than 5 to 8. The Spanish art of parking...

ekscrunchy

We stayed two nights in Pontevedra; one of these was a Monday when most restaurants are closed.
On that first night we had an unmemorable dinner at Restaurante 5 Puertas.

But on Tuesday night, our last in Galicia, we struck gold at the restaurant O EIRADO DA LENA, on a picture-perfect square in the historic district.
I highly recommend this restaurant; which has only about six tables. This was among our favorites during the week we spent in Galicia. If we had had more time, I would have returned for another meal here! Advance booking essential; can be done online.

With water and wine, our total bill was 107 euro.




Carta, O EIRADO DA LENA. (needs accent over the "N") Very reasonable prices; we found this to be true in all of the restaurants we chose during our week in the region.

Pickled mackerel in escabeche, starter.

Raw veiras, a species of scallop, with the plate of excellent breads in rear.

Smashingly great combination of white asparagus and crab....I would consider this a "must" if it remains on the menu...

My partner ordered turbot and was delighted with this fish.

Restaurant exterior, on a film-set-worthy plaza in the historic district of Pontevedra, Galicia

Pontevedra scene, at night


The following morning, we drove an easy route to the airport outside Santiago de Compostela, where we returned our car at SIXT, and boarded our (inexpensive) direct Vueling flight of about two hours-plus, to the island of Lanzarote, in the Canarias, landing shortly before 8pm, Canarian time.

Maribel

That is a film worthy plaza. And on that same plaza the Eirado de Leņa chef, Iņaki Bretal, has opened a casual gastrobar,Loaira Xantar. (xantar=midday meal in galego).
Michelin recommended.

ekscrunchy

You know I had that on my list; I think there was some confusion as to whether or not they were open on Monday night.
That plaza is just glorious!

A week was good but one really needs at least two, bare minimum, to get a feel of Galicia, I imagine.
What about A Coruna? I know there are great places to eat.....maybe combine with western Asturias??

Maribel

Well, yes, in A Coruņa there are also fine places to eat, but as you know, you can spend two weeks easily in Asturias alone, along the coast from Ribadeo, Galicia to past Llanes then down south to Oviedo and further down to the Cuenca Minera (some exciting openings there) and eat extraordinarily well. Asturias is, after the Basque Country, my favorite northern Spain region for great dining.

Loaira is open on Mondays for both lunch and dinner.