-@ joannyc – I think I can safely speak for rialtogrl when I say that we were both thinking of you as we sipped our sunrise mimosas! Thanks for the inspiration. -

Indeed we did! Thanks from me too!

LOL! I hope you found a lovely spot to have some delicious "eye openers" and watch a glorious sunrise, ladies!

There was some hippy chick close to us singing/chanting with her eyes closed as the sun came up. Then she took a selfie. It was pretty funny. Of course, she probably thought we were a little weird opening little bottles of cava at 7 in the morning.

That is too funny! LOL!

@ noe847 – The museum of Basque culture in San Sebastian / Donostia is, of course, the SAN Telmo. Oops!

@ marigross – Thanks! I hope you continue to enjoy my recap!

@ thursdaysd – Ooh, I must have good risotto fortune: I’ve never had trouble finding it for one!

@ rialtogrl & joannyc -- I assure you, joannyc, that rialtogirl picked the PERFECT place from which to savor that sunset -- may we ALL have many more occasions for inspirations like that! And thanks so much for the laugh, rialtogrl – I had completely forgotten that woman! I would have said new-ager rather than hippy (I seem to remember crystals), but the image works either way, I think. I had the sense that she wanted to burst into song like Ella or Maria von Tropp, but instead “respected” everyone else’s space by being quite – which is to say that there was a sort of eerie, off-key quality to sounds that occasionally veered from whispered lilt to hum and at other times to atonal whisper. And then the selfie – not something I saw coming, LOL! If I have to choose between cava at 7 a.m. or selfies at ANY time of day, I admit it – I’ll go for the mimosas. ;-)

... von Trapp....

Did I just say "sunset" -- oops! Sunrise. and "quite"? Make that "quiet." Either I need to do more editing, or my auto-correct function needs to do less! ;-)

Thanks, @ kja, for the info; it is helpful.

We are armed with paper maps and I will double check those to see if they're of fairly recent date. I'm looking forward to reading your car escapades! We will not be driving quite as extensively in the Pyrenees as you did but we are seriously considering stopping overnight in Taüll to see a few of the Romanesque churches on our way back to Barcelona. On the early part of our trip, the first night out of Barcelona we are planning to stop in Jaca and I'm hoping for a stop at the nearby San Juan de la Pena, which I know you missed.

We are quite interested in getting a feel for the history and culture of the Basque region. The Telmo is definitely on our list for San Sebastian but we will be in Bilbao first and for a fairly limited time so I have wondered whether to see the Meseu Vasco. Your input has moved it up on the list. Whether we can see the other museums in Bilbao will depend on time.

A question about the Viscaya Bridge to Getxo: can we fairly easily cross there with our car? Or is the wait too long?

Kja, are you drinking mimosas now??? They are morning beverages!!! LOL!!! ;-)

@ noe847 – I’m glad you are finding my comments helpful!

If you have any interest in Romanesque art or architecture, I think you might enjoy stopping in Taüll or elsewhere in the Vall de Boi – it is a beautiful area, and these churches and their murals are remarkable. Of course, you can see the original murals once in Barcelona….

As for the Viscaya Bridge, my understanding is that it is a regular part of many people’s commute and the delays are rarely long – but I could easily be mistaken, and what is “too long” is, of course, open to interpretation. And I’m sure the timing matters, too. I was there on a Sunday morning, and I don’t remember seeing any cars that had to wait for more than one gondola (i.e., the one after the next), but I really wasn’t paying attention. If makes a difference, and if one of the real experts on the area (like mikelg) doesn’t weigh in on the timing, then you might consider posting a separate thread on the Puenta Viscaya. Sorry I can’t be more definitive!


@ joannyc – Trust me, I know not to add juice to cava during the evening!!! I am now raising my glass of cava to your attention to ensuring that I imbibe appropriately! ;-)

Thanks for that link on solo travelling!

Thanks, everyone, for reading along so far! Now, what some might consider the CORE of my report:


What I enjoyed <u>MOST</u> about this trip, in no particular order:

• The incredible diversity of my experiences! That might not seem too surprising, given that I had planned the trip in part to maximize the range of my experiences, but OMG, I succeeded beyond my wildest imaginings!

... I saw brilliant works of art from masterpieces of prehistory to works gaining modern acclaim and an astonishing array of truly fine work from countless ages in between, including works as unusual and memorable as the Painted Forest of Oma.

... And I saw ancient dolmen to buildings by Gehry and impressive architectural achievements from just about every Western style in between – and not just majestic preRomanesque and Romanesque and Gothic and Moderniste structures, but also varying styles of hórreos and city fortifications and everyday architecture, too.

... I saw the fascinating red and tan and green mesa-studded tapestry of La Rioja; and the high plains across to Léon, with distant snow-capped mountain ranges marking every horizon;, and the glorious peaks and valleys and alpine lakes of the Picos de Europa; and the rippling cloud tops filling the green, green valleys to the north; and the powerful, heaving, crashing tides of the Bay of Biscay and the the cliffs and harbors and beachs and protected waterways of the Costa Verde; and the battling waters of the Rio Urumea as it attempts to deposit its waters against the incoming tides at Donostia; and the differently glorious peaks and valleys and sparkling reservoirs of the Pyrenees; and the incredibly different waves of the Mediterranean; and the beaten, but unyielding, fingers of rock and wind-whipped vegetation of the Costa Brava; and the greens and golds of Catalunyan farmland; and oh, SO much diversity in the natural scenery I encountered!

... And I got to see these gloriously diverse landscapes not just from a car (which, IMO, is not the best place for a driver to take in the scenery), but also from miradors and balconies and walks, some of which were very short and easy and a few that were more challenging. And I had time to contrast these experiences of more open areas with city streets, where I had time to watch people while savoring a glass of wine with a view of an intriguing plaza. I had time to experience the hustle and bustle of modern life in cities that remain geographically defined, at their cores, by medieval times. I had time to listen to the quiet calls of birds in the late twilight and to listen to the different kind of quiet that settles on a cobbled lane within a city’s ancient walls at night.

... I tasted extraordinary flavors, whether as simple as Pimientos de Padrón or as complex as a Basque seafood soup, whether traditional or gastronomic, whether fish or seafood or poultry or fresh meat or dried meat or tapas or pintxos or dessert or cheese or bread or fruit or OMG, the quince jelly! What incredible foods!

... And, of course, I savored luscious wines and effervescent cavas and other beverages (txakolí and orujo and various house liqueurs which I was so kindly offered at several restaurants) -- and have I even mentioned the delicious coffee or juices?

... And so many other differences, too – the range of meat cuts in markets (from trotters to pigs’ ears and essentially everything in between) and the flowers (alpine, wild, and cultivated) and the feel of the air, so different in each location….

... Well, I think we can agree I met my goal of having a diversity of experiences!

• I saw the Castellers – oh my, what a delight! I never watched a tower being built without a frisson of fear – the little ones are so very little! But at least the little ones wear helmets, and it is obvious that they are very much in the mind of every casteller out there. I was awed by the strength and coordination and teamwork that every tower required and feel incredibly priviledged to have seen them.

• I heard L'Escolania! Whatever one thinks of the tradition – and I’m not sure what I think of placing such young boys (and some of them are VERY young) into intensive training – hearing them sing is a incredible and transporting joy, particularly in a place that provides the accoustics (and visual aesthetics) of Montserrat’s Basilica. So moving!

• And I experienced so many moments when I caught a glimpse of the ways in which music and art have a fundamental place in Spanish life – the incredibly evocative and ethereal sounds produced by a woman playing a set of metal domes outside Girona’s cathedral and the appreciative audience that had gathered around her; the majestic glory of the waves crashing around the Peine de los Vientos in Donostia, waves that also inspire squeals of joy from people young and old, and breath-y piping sounds from associated accoustic elements; the painted “lockers” embedded in buiding walls in Cadaques; the use of Gaudi’s hexagonal tile pattern for sidewalks in Barcelona….

• And I caught other glimpses into ways of life other than my own: Families out for a Sunday evening stroll along Lekeitio’s harborfront; and women at the market, chatting with the same sellers from whom they have purchased their produce for countless years; and young couples sneaking a few moments together in the darkening shadows of park benches; and dogs bounding happily along the beach….

• I was able to “see” the murals of the Vall de Boi both in situ and under optimal viewing circumstances, particularly for Sant Climent de Taüll. The church itself is lovely and is in a gorgeous setting. Inside, it has a few remnants of its original murals – pieces too small or too damaged to have been tranferred. The walls also hold recreations of the original murals that were removed. (These statements are also, I believe, true of Santa Maria de Taüll and the other churches in the valley whose frescoes were removed.) Sant Climent is, I believe, unique in that it now offers a “video-mapping” show on occasion – and I had timed my trip to take advantage of this opportunity! A lasar show staged within the church recreates the painting of the interior, drawing attention to features that might otherwise escape notice. Wonderful! I was thrilled to have seen this laser show, and these churches, and must admit that I was a bit trepiditious about what I would think of seeing the original murals once in Barcelona’s Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya. I needn’t have worried – the originals have a jaw-dropping richness of detail, and moreover, are arranged in ways that give one closer and better physical access to some of these details. I found the experiences not just complimentary, but synergistic. How fortunate I am!

• I saw – and experienced – the works of Antoni Gaudi. I cannot say, with honesty, that I loved everything he did. I can say that adored the vast majority of what I saw! And I stand in absolute awe of his genius. Remarkable. How fortunate we ALL are that he had the chance to create spaces that the rest of get to explore. Awesome!

• I benefited from the extraordinary patience and generosity of many, many guides with whom I interacted. I had the incredibly good fortune to work with some outstanding men and women who went above and beyond what their jobs required to ensure that I understood what they were showing or telling me. As just a few examples: My guide at the Hornos de la Pena spent more than twice as long with me as the tour was slated to take, and shared with me not just the cave’s extraordinary gems, but also his love of them. The guide at Santa Maria del Naranco carefully selected clear, simple Spanish words until she was sure I understood and even though it was late, she allowed me my fill of time on that amazing church’s portico. The woman at the Ermita Santa Ana in Castro Urdiales patiently struggled to find ways to communicate the various purposes to which the building had been put, and she did so successfully.

• And more generally, I welcomed the warmth and kindness and helpfulness of the many Spaniards with whom I came in contact. As already noted, I knew very little Castillian and nothing of the other primary languages of the regions I visited, but people were unfailingly kind and patient and helpful. As examples, when my ATM card was eaten at Madrid’s Barajas Airport, a very nice woman tried to call the emergency number listed on the machine using her own phone; it didn’t work, but it was very kind of her to try. Sseveral times, when I realized that I was the last person in a restaurant and had just been served my entrée, I commented – only to be firmly reassured there was no problem and, as proof, I was often presented with a complimentary glass of the house liqueur. (After the third time this happened, I quit commenting on whether others were there – I feared that I was triggering some hospitality norm that required them to prove my welcome.) A very sweet man in Santa Maria de Cadaqués made sure that I stood within the small area within which one can see Santa Maria’s crown formed by the morning light. And when I asked a woman in Léon for directions, and she realized that I hadn’t understood her, she simply turned around and walked several blocks with me. What wonderful kindnesses! And these are just some examples of the hospitality with which I was greeted.

Let me be clear: These are just a FEW of the things that I liked MOST about this trip. They may be the most salient of the things I liked best, at least upon quick reflection, but they are not ALL of the things I enjoyed by ANY means!!!

It was a trip with many wonderful moments!

But it was not perfect. Next up: The things I liked LEAST.

I am awe struck by the amount you covered on this jaunt, and by your appreciation for even the small things. Just a marvelous report. I am setting it aside to re-read and am eagerly awaiting the rest…I now have to rethink the plan for my own next visit in order to include a few of the highlights that you detailed so well here!

I am such a wimp for being so squeamish about the driving when here you drove in and out of hamlets and cities with no apparent problem and no one in the passenger seat to navigate for you.

<<I am such a wimp for being so squeamish about the driving when here you drove in and out of hamlets and cities with no apparent problem and no one in the passenger seat to navigate for you.>>

While I'm more than happy to give kudos to Kja to have done this on her trips, many of us solo female travelers do this every trip and don't really think much about it. Just the way we travel. For me, I'm a car person, not a train/bus person unless it's the first leg of my trip (after an overnight flight) from the airport to my first stop.

@ Adelaidean – You are most welcome for that link to the solo travel superthread. I think you will find that Fodor’s has a number of committed solo travelers who are happy to share their experiences and expertise, even if we sometimes forget to post our trip reports on that thread. ;-) (And BTW, thank you for reminding me to do so!)


@ ekscrunchy – thanks so much for your kind words! I’m glad that you are finding some useful bits of information in my ramblings and am sure that you will have a wonderful trip no matter what you decide.

I must admit that I love driving – or at least I did, until I met the car I drove on this trip! Like everything else I do when traveling, I just approach it as an adventure: If I get lost, well, I’ll get back on track somehow – no use doing anything other than enjoying myself! (And oh my gosh, it is easier now with GPS systems than in the old days of printed maps only!) That said, I have so far taken road-trips only when I conclude that a rental car will allow me the freedom to do things that otherwise would be too difficult or would take too much time. So for example, visiting the caves with prehistoric art that I saw on this trip would have been MUCH more difficult without a car. I like taking public transportion – its generally a greener option than driving (at least for a solo traveler), and I can relax and enjoy the scenery and, if it’s a route used by locals, get some glimpses into their lives that aren’t otherwise readily accessible.

And while I didn’t have anyone in the passenger seat to navigate for me, I also didn’t have anyone in the passenger seat making me nervous by audibly praying for his / her life. ;-)


@ joannyc – I’m picturing you in a convertible, and you are smiling. May you have MANY more delightful road trips!

Thanks for the further info about the Vall de Boi. The Romanesque is my absolute favorite architectural period, and I was already planning to visit the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya in Barcelona - which will have to be on the day our flight from the US lands, unfortunately, but if anything will keep me awake it will be Romanesque church murals! Now after reading your "favorites" description we've decided to stay two nights in Taüll to absorb a little more of the mountain ambiance, rest (husband) and make sure to see a few of the churches (me). I've reserved the Hotel el Rantiner and am really hoping I can catch the video mapping at Sant Climent.

@ noe847 – oh, if you enjoy Taüll even half as much as I did, then you will have a great time there! I think I mentioned that only four of the churches were open when I was there, but I’m pretty sure that several of the others are open starting in early June, so you may be in for quite a treat! I urge you to stop at the visitors’ information center in Erill la Vall at your earliest convenience – or contact them ahead of time! – to get hours and map out a route. With a love of the Romanesque, I think you will find much to savor in the region.

The Rantiner suited me very well – I think you’ll find that the family who runs it are very gracious and welcoming hosts. And you might consider dining one evening at El Caliu – delicious!

Let us know what you think!

Hi, all --

Another note about trip highlights:

I just realized that I didn’t include a separate bullet in my “liked most” list for prehistoric art – a terrible oversight, as seeing these magnificent works of art was, for me, among the undisputed highlights of this trip. For one thing, I was awed by the fantastic geologic formations of the caves. With the exception of Pech Merle, the caves with prehistoric are that I had previously seen have not had particularly interesting geological features, and found it wonderful to imagine our ancestors seeing what their artists had created in such beautiful and fantastic and magnificent natural settings. As for the incomparable artwork, I am awed to think of the resources that social groups would have had to devote to support the artists who created these masterpieces. I am awed to think what these creations much look like in the flickering of a torch, when so many of the figures must seem to move. I am awed by the craftsmanship and artistry and vision and expressiveness of these ancient masters. And I am awed by the efforts to preserve these works, and that I have somehow had the great good fortune to see them.


OK, time to “get down to brass tacks,” as the saying goes. I did NOT like everything I experienced on this trip. Some things were DECIDEDLY less than perfect.

So here’s what I liked <u>LEAST</u>, in no particular order:

• I did NOT like my rental car. An Opel Corsa, it was little – so it offered good gas mileage -- and that was a good thing, but that was just about the ONLY good thing I have to say about it. It had so little oomph that I swear the only reason bicyclists didn't pass me in the mountains was a fear of what it would mean to be anywhere near it. (Cyclists did pass me elsewhere!) Even when I held the gas pedal fully and firmly to the floor, I still struggled to keep that car moving forward on some of those mountains! Going up hill, it had no oomph; coming down hill, it seemed to offer little control, all too often giving me the sense that it was skidding out. And the car had a structural part that was perfectly positioned to completely block my view of the road on any left-turn switchback. Gotta love that, right? Especially when driving km after km of blind switchbacks. And the car was so lightweight that gusts of wind sometimes seemed to shift it markedly to one side or the other – a particular delight on the windy blind switchbacks around the Cap de Creus and Sant Pere de Rodes. And apparently just for chuckles, the car’s radio came on without warning at random moments, sometimes quite loudly. I’m happy to drive at whatever speed feels comfortable to ME, but I hate to be the person who keeps everybody else waiting. So when cars came up behind me, I tried to pull off whenever I could. But sometimes, there were no turnoffs for very long stretches. I was fortunate to be traveling a bit off-season, so it was relatively uncommon for long strings to build up. Still, there’s nothing fun about driving a car in which one has less than complete confidence when in unfamiliar, narrow, twisting roads. And BTW, I’m not complaining about the roads – as a rule, I thought them well maintained and well signed. I did not like this car, I did not find it’s controls well-positioned (some were actually counter-intuitive to me), and I sincerely hope I never encounter a Corsa again! That said, it did get me where I wanted to go….

• Losing an ATM card to a machine upon arrival in Barajas was NOT something I enjoyed. I still have no idea what went wrong; I know I hope I never again need to trust a card to a machine that isn’t attached to an open and functioning office where some actual person might be able to help me. All I know is that the card went in and did not come out, nor did any money. Jet-lagged and sleep-deprived, it took me a while to realize that if I couldn’t get the card, then no one else could, either – and it was only once I came to that realization that I felt able to leave the machine. Fortunately, I did have a back-up ATM card, but I won’t pretend that I found it easy to use after that! (Actually, I didn’t use it at the airport – I was willing to bear the cost of using a credit card to withdraw cash until I had a clearer head and different machine.)

• As I understand it, Barcelona’s soccer team played, and won, a game against Bilbao’s team on my last Saturday in Spain. I admit that soccer is not among my interests, but I have nothing against it, either. I wasn’t quite so disinterested in the masses of drunken fans who began making their presence loudly known by very early that day and who proceeded to do what drunken fans do anywhere in the world: Make too much noise and take up too much space, all with no awareness that they might not be fully adored for doing so. I could have done without. I could also have done without the huge bruise I have on my face from where a drunken young fan tripped and slammed his shoulder into me. And I could definitely have done without the celebration, which apparently was hosted right outside my “quiet” room on the Plaza Catalunya. The bone-shaking drums, ear-splitting firecrackers, and never-welcome drunken fight songs went on until well past 2:30 a.m. These are NOT among my fondest memories of this trip. ;-)

• While just about anyone in Barcelona could probably have told me who played for them that day, NO ONE I could find at the Tablao de Carmen or Poble Espanyol could tell me the names of the performers who took part in the flamenco performance the night I was there. That struck me as very unfortunate!

• One complaint about the food – yes, really! I LOVE fresh vegetables, but found it nearly impossible to order fresh vegetables as part of a dinner. The few times I was delighted to find a salad listed, it was 2 or 3 times as much as I wanted and with tuna or other meats. Better too much than none, though! Still, a small salad, or a plate of chopped or sliced fresh vegetables, would have been SO welcome SO many times! Does anyone know: Are servings of raw vegetables a part of the local cuisine anywhere in these parts of Spain? Or is that just not done?

• I walked through Barcelona’s Parc de la Ciutadella one lovely weekend afternoon and was barely able to avoid getting stoned! Oh, am I confusing my liked least / most lists…?

• And the one thing I liked least of all: There was simply too much that I wanted to see, do, experience, and taste! ;-)


Hmmm, seems that my “liked least” list is a tad shorter than my “liked most” list – who saw that coming?!? ;-) To be absolutely clear: I did, indeed, love this trip. The things I didn’t like were, at most, minor irritations. (Well, the car was a MAJOR irritation, but I managed to navigate it to where I wanted to go!) The things I liked best were the things that make me love to travel.

I feel incredibly fortunate to have ventured into parts of this varied and rewarding part of the world, and while I had to make some very difficult choices to fit a sample of its treats into a month-long trip, I regret none of those choices – I simply feel fortunate to have had the experiences I did.

Next up: Some observations I offer by way of thanks….

Other than answering questions, the one remaining thing I want to do is to say a few words to each of you who helped me plan this trip. I benefited from any number of threads started by others, as well as several that I began, including my initial post:
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...n-may-2015.cfm

Followed by a more detailed planning thread:
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-catalunya.cfm

And then by a thread focused on San Sebastian / Donostia:
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...n-donostia.cfm

And several threads with more narrowly defined questions, including:

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-to-burgos.cfm
http://www.fodors.com/community/europe/teverga.cfm
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...ondarribia.cfm
http://www.fodors.com/community/europe/vall-de-boi.cfm
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...l-drop-off.cfm

Thank you all so much the generous and helpful advice!

Several of you have, I’m sure, recognized your footprints throughout my itinerary. (All mis-stepps were mine and mine alone.) There is NO WAY I can thank each of you for every inspiration you offered. I will, however, try to thank each of you who offered suggestions on one or more of these threads for just one specific thing that made a particular difference to me, hoping you will understand that in doing so, I am thanking you for ALL your comments.

And if I skip anyone, please forgive and let me know so I can correct the error!

Okay, turning to each of you in alphabetical order:

annhig – As I splurged for the parador in Leon, I thought of you and your comments about its linens. Oh my! I was especially taken by the incredibly luxuriant linen towels placed beside the bed in each of the paradors I visited. NOW I understand why you still remember them after so many years!

Bettsydney: As you suggested, Maria Arrate and her staff at the charming Erletxe in Laguardia / Biasteri were able to arrange my reservations to visit the Monasterios Suso y Yuso. It’s a wonderful B&B run by a delightful, knowledgable, and welcoming woman, and it was a privilege to see those monasteries!

crosscheck – I can see why you enjoyed your time in the Dali Triangle – so much to see! I wanted to thank you in particular for mentioning Besalú, which (although not related to Dali insofar as I know) I thought well worth seeing and a made for a good stopping point on my way from Taüll to Cadaqués.

Cruiseluv – Thanks so much for encouraging me to see the Picos de Europa – magnificent, and so different than the Pyrenees! Although I did not make the full circular walk of the Lakes of Covadonga, I got to see them, and OH what a beautiful sight they are!

danon – I found the Museum of Torture in Santillana del Mar fascinating. I had seen an extensive collecion of implements of torture that had been used during the Inquisition once before, and so was prepared for much of what I saw, but this museum placed some of these “tools” much more squarely in the domain of the everyday world of public punishment than I had previously allowed myself to imagine. Seeing this museum made me wonder how a Christian’s understanding of the crucifixion would be different if it were not seen as unusually, exceptional, and tortuously barbaric punishment? I have no answers – just a way of looking at history and religion that is new for me..

HappyTrvlr -- Although I didn’t take that little pedestrian ferry from Hondarribia to Hendaye, I can see why you love this part of the world – it has SO much to offer, doesn’t it?

joannyc – Fully expecting to think of you with every sunrise mimosa of the rest of my travel days, I’ll single you out for recommending delightful Comillas: From the Casa Capricho (my first real exposure to Gaudi!) through its stunning cemetery, from its tiny old and narrow corners to the open expanses by the beach… Lovely!

kimhe – Fodorites are incredibly fortunate to be able to call upon your knowledge of, and love of, Spain. So where to begin? I guess with breakfast – and your mention of breakfast pintxos in San Sebastian / Donostia. Until I read your comment about that (perhaps on someone else’s thread), I had no idea one could find pintxos for breakfast! And how perfect – not just a great way to start the day, but also to greatly increase my exposure to pintxos and the joys of dining in Basque country. It allowed me a greater range of accomodations, too, because I quit looking for a place with a good breakfast buffet. MANY thanks, kimhe!

Kwoo – I see why you so enjoyed Cadaqués – what an absolutely beautiful place to walk around and admire the Mediterranean and enjoy the flowers and paintings that people have used to adorn the white-washed exteriors of their homes!

lincasanova – Thank you for pointing me in the direction of Laguardia / Biasteri – what a perfectly lovely place to stay! Once I realized that I could visit La Rioja without worrying about public transportation, it quickly became clear to me that THIS little city would meet my needs perfectly – lots of charm, a gorgeous setting, enough restaurants to satisfy, and a few sites that really set it apart. I’m so glad I stayed there!

lreynold1 – OH, how I envy you for having sufficient experience with the cheeses of Asturia to have chosen a favorite! I made sure to taste La Peral – heavenly! I think I would have to spend a year there to taste enough to come up with a favorite. Of course, one could do worse that try…

LuisJp – I believe you were the first person to bring the incredible Painted Forest of Oma to my attention. I came REALLY close to skipping it. I thought: Seriously? Hike an hour in and an hour out just to spend some time looking at blotches of paint on bark? But several people mentioned it, and I finally decided that I could do worse than take a pleasant walk of a few hours, particularly because it was a gorgeous day. So, an hour later, I saw a pair of trees with yellow triangles on them -- I've arrived! A few steps later -- oh, that's interesting, from here the two trees look like one and the shape like a single diamond. And hmmm, there's a small triangle on the ground that points straight to the diamond. OK, there's another little arrow on the ground ... Oh my, if I stand right over it, I can see something else! Once I got the hang of it, I came to one marked spot where I simply couldn't make the images come together -- until I stooped down: oh, it's designed for a little person! Absolutely awesome! I am so glad that you and so many people told me to make sure I saw this place – thank you so much!

mamamia2 – I managed to time my visit to Potes to include its Monday market and can see why you mentioned it – oh, I do love a good local market!

Michael – Your picture of the soon-to-be flooded village in the Pyrenees proved immensely helpful to me in a way that you might not have anticipated. My TomTom did a pretty good job of getting me where I wanted to go, but while driving in the Pyrenees one day, it kept “changing its mind,” telling me to turn around when possible, sending me off again, telling me to turn around, etc. When it shouted, “Turn left NOW,” while I was traveling at high speed on a bridge over a reservoir, the likely truth dawned on me: Remember Michael’s picture? Maybe the TomTom’s map predates the reservoir!?! So I pulled out my map (yes, I did have one) and soon navigated my way out of that area.

Mikelg – Your love of Bilbao and the Basque country shines through every word you write, and we are all the beneficiaries of that passion. Although I was not able to arrange to tour Remelluri’s wine-production facilities, it would never have occurred to me that one might simply walk through a vineyard until I read about the option while checking out your recommendation. Once there, I easily found the map and got only a tiny bit lost. ;-) I enjoyed seeing the vines close up, and seeing the ways in which different grapes not only differ in their growth, but also in their cultivation. And I enjoyed seeing the side an old monastery, the remains of an ancient church, and even a glimpse of a deer bounding through the vines, all in a gorgeous setting. What a pleasant place to stroll! For this idea, and so many others, eskerrik asko, Mikel!

Pvoyageuse – You were so right about Sant Pere de Rodes – the views were stunning! Getting there was well worth every white-knuckled moment it took to navigate that whimpy rental car up, around, and down those roads in the midst of winds that often seemed stronger than the car itself!

Rialtogrl – Not only did I get the advantage of your wonderful insights and recommendations about this part of Spain, but what a delight to have met you, and to have done so at Montserrat, which I know holds a very special place in your heart! It was a privilege to see the light shifting as it touched the fantastic crags and abutments of that magical mountain, and oh, to hear L'Escolania under the Black Madonna’s gaze in that beautiful Basilica! It still makes me shiver. I am so glad we got to share some good food, good wine, good conversation, and a few of those moments that simply bring tears of wonder to ones eyes…. Until next time!

ribeirasacra – Particular thanks for encouraging me to spend a few nights in La Rioja, rather than visiting it from Bilbao – that really worked out well for me!

Robert2533 – As another expert on Spain, you, too, provide a wealth of information that benefits us all. And I’ll start at the beginning with you, too – my ride from Madrid to Burgos. I readily admit that I find the start of any trip – those first few hours after landing – among the most stressful. I’m jet-lagged and disoriented; my ears aren’t accustomed to the language, I don’t know exactly what I’m looking for, etc. The very first thing I did after claiming my luggage at Barajas was to go to the ATM machine, and I’ve already said how that turned out – me with no euros and one less ATM card. Once I did everything I could think of to resolve that situation, I did what I could to get back on track. Soon, I was on the bus to Burgos, sitting beside a window on the right side, just as you had recommended, comitted to trying to relax after the stresses of the preceding few hours. And as I took note of the Bodegas Portia, and then the spires of the Parador de Lerma, and then – at last – Burgos’s cathedral rising above the city, I thought: Aaah, I’m in Spain and I am at the start of a journey that will be full of wonderful moments, a journey that is already special because of the advice I’ve been given by fellow Fodorites. Thanks so much!

Rubicund – In the end, I didn’t make it to the Caldes de Boi, but not for lack of interest! Thanks again for letting me know that you and your wife enjoyed it.

Southam – Thanks for adding your voice to those endorsing Bilbao’s Museum of Fine Arts. Much as I was glad to see the Guggenheim, I preferred the art at the Museo de Bellas Artes and was happy to spend several hours roaming its halls. While I was there, it had a special exhibit, “The 50s: Fashion in France 1947-1957,” which not only held some gorgeous clothing, but also displayed it in and around the works of art in its permanent collection – fascinating use of space!

sssteve – Thank you again for reminding me of the obvious, but essential, concept of spitting. Thanks to you, I allowed myself to consider staying outside of a public-transportation hub in La Rioja (how I loved Laguardia / Biasteri!) and I allowed myself to plan a variety of activities in La Rioja other than wine tastings -- and I so enjoyed those things! Sometimes it really is helpful to state the obvious. ;-)

yorkshire – Your recommendation to walk from San Sebastian to Pasaia and eat lunch in Donibane was perfect! As I mentioned, I’m a bit wary of solo hikes these days, and so want some level of comfort that others will be on the trail. For most of my hike, I had the spectacular scenery all to myself, but I passed just enough others to know that the trail was well used. Thanks so much!


So that’s the end of my report. Questions are welcome at any time.

Your "What I liked most" list should immediately be published as a seperate article, a very much out of the ordinary trip highlights report. What rhytm and music!

And all kinds of celebrations on Saturday the 30th of May by more or less drunk and very loud Barcelona fans should of course be understood, praised and wholeheartedly supported. This season has seen the ultimate crowning of the best team on earth, and we are seriously talking all kinds of teams and all times and places. And Lionel Messi is beyond doubt the greatest artist in the history of sports, beating Muhammed Ali by an inch. On your night he scored one of the finest goals of his career in the Copa del Rey final against Athletic Bilbao. It was a night for crowning of the king: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bOX2QpfMkq4

For the second time Barcelona won the treble (unprecedented) this spring, both the national league, Copa del Rey and Champions League in the most widespread sport on earth in the hardest leagues in the world (the Spanish and the European). The main moment of the season and perhaps in all football history (including Pele and Maradona) was how he almost on his own destroyed Bayern Munich in the Champions League semi-final a month ago. A kind of artistry that could only be met by the finest moments of a flamenco performance in a church in Antequera in September 2007: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=brrJrIPKMtc