Foodie Suggestions for Dordogne
Mar 18th, 2011, 08:55 PM
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Foodie Suggestions for Dordogne
I have been reading some wonderful old "foodie" threads,dating back to 2006,in which there were great trip reports /conversations,highlighting restaurants,shops,'fermes' ,wines.......but that was a while ago.I would love some suggestions from people who have been to the Dordogne recently.We will be at the Esplanade in Domme for our first 4 nights..Have not yet booked the rest.It would be great to hear from the "foodies out there"!! ALSO...anyone have any experience with Easter Sunday ??Essential to book ahead??
Mar 19th, 2011, 02:47 AM
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I would book at least a day ahead, or call that morning, for all meals. And further in advance for weekend meals. Not sure how many places are open on Easter Sunday but if they are, I would book as far ahead as possible, even up to a week ahead.
Mar 19th, 2011, 07:17 AM
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This is the restaurant section of my 20+ page Dordogne itinerary. If you would like the entire itinerary, e-mail me at [email protected]
Restaurants
My wife and our friends consider me to be a gourmet chef. Many say that they would rather eat at our house, than dine at restaurants in San Francisco. Fine dinners are very important to us. When I consider an area to visit in France, one of the first things I do is to get out the Red Michelin guide and make sure there are plenty of restaurants in the area. Upon arrival at a Gite, the first day is usually spent scurrying about and checking out the menus at the various restaurants that are close by. We usually eliminate about 20% of the restaurants that are on my list because the menu isn’t interesting enough. I like to eat at places where I will be served something new, creative, or places with a multi course fixed price selection. Six to eight courses (small courses) are what I look for. My wife can’t go for more than about four courses. We dine at about 30 to 40 restaurants in France each year. We can’t afford to do that if we eat at expensive places. If there is one thing that I’ve discovered in my 25 years of traveling in France, it’s that you don’t have to pay big bucks to get good meals.
In the Dordogne, most restaurants have Magret du Canard (duck breast) on the menu. This is something I prepare at home quite often. I always cook it several times at the Gite when we vacation in France. Therefore I never order it at restaurants, and I bypass restaurants where it’s about the only thing on the menu – which is often the case in the Dordogne.
The following is from my wife’s diary, covering our 2 week trip to the Dordogne in Sept ’00, with updates from our one week Sept ’03, four week ’05, and 2 week ‘09 trips.
Sept ’09 trip note:
What a difference 4 years makes! After our ’05 vacation, I developed this itinerary and selected 6 restaurants that I though were excellent and superior to the others. Since then, Jardin d’Epicure in St Cyprien closed (in ‘07 or ‘08). When we arrived in the Dordogne in June of ’09, two others were closed – La Meynardie near Salignac-Eyvigues, and Velo Rouge in la Bugue. La Maynardie had a big sign outside the restaurant that indicated they would be closed for ’09. However, the place was not boarded-up or in use as another enterprise, and there were sill placards along the road directing drivers to the restaurant (the placards, however, had “Ferme” printed on them). I’ll leave la Marnardie in my description below in case it opens in ’10. In addition, several restaurants reduced the number of selections on their menus, took some of my favorite dishes off the menu (perhaps “dumbed down” the menu a bit), but also offered lower priced “fixed price” selections. This is good for budget travelers, but I was disappointed. We also noticed that cheese courses were disappearing or becoming optional.
The Top Six
L’Esplanade in Domme 05 53 28 31 41
http://esplanade-perigord.com/
This is a Michelin 1 star restaurant. (lost star in ’02)
We had a great table by a window overlooking the Dordogne. Though a 1 star restaurant, the service was most pleasant We had a great dinner, Daddy & I each had the “turban of eggplant caviar”. The turban was a slice of marinated eggplant wrapped around caviar. This was followed by lotte (monkfish) en casserole. Daddy started with lobster bisque, then followed with filleted sole with cepes. Stu had the menu a 380FF. He started with a pan seared foie gras, then lobster ragout with a potato millefeuille. Then, he had lamb with truffle slices with a vegetable flan and a “package” of other vegetables. We had a cheese course & selections from the dessert chariot. The dessert chariot was the restaurant serving piece equivalent of an architecture “folly”. The chariot incorporated all sorts of swiveling trays, shelves, and lids – accommodating all the gateaux (with a heavy leaning toward chocolate), the bowls of fruit based sweets, and a number of sauce boats with the “de rigeur” selection of sauces appropriate to each dessert selection. Chocolate mint cake landed on Stu’s & my plate, & daddy went for the Black Forest cake.
Sept ‘05
We did not dine at l’Esplanade when we visited the Dordogne in ’03. We had heard a few rumblings that it had slipped a bit. We returned in ’05, and thought it was as good (if not better) than ever.
We had an attractive plate of Amuse Bouche items – a small cup of vichyssoise, saumon marine on toast, prosciutto wrapped around melon, a slice of pate en croute. Stu had the menu a 50E. Cepes presse (terrine) in pastry topped with several large meaty sautéed fresh cepes with a light veal stock sauce. Then he had a demi-pigeon roti (a point) served with an exquisite deep, dark colored game sauce. It was accompanied by strips of roasted carrots & parsnips & a cube of crisp polenta speared with a cherry tomato. I had the menu a 42E. Thin “sheets”/slices of Sandre marine, served with marinated vegetables layered with crispy light pastry. Then I had Pintade stuffed with herbs under the skin – cooked to perfection – velvety, buttery texture with a light butter game sauce. We both had dessert selections from the dessert chariot - and what an awesome set of choices!! Pineapple tart/orange tart, cups of berries, fruit napoleons – but Stu had the chocolate/caramel “dome” with crème anglaise, and I had the chocolate ganache (maximum, strength chocolate) with red berry coulis.
June ‘09
Dinner was excellent – just as we remembered from past visits. However, the cheese selection was not as large, and the dessert ‘chariot” disappeared – replaced by a choice of about 3 options.
La Plume d’Oie in Roque Gageac 05 53 29 57 05
This restaurant is right on the road bordering the Dordogne. We both started with the house aperitif (couldn’t quite put our finger on the contents, but it may have had some peach liqueur). I had the menu a 195 FF, starting with what was called a “bisque”, but actually was 2 lobster ravioli (perfect pasta with melt in your mouth stuffing), with a fabulous lobster sauce. Then I had the “declinaition” of fish. Although I had my dictionary, I could not find this word defined in a food context (the related verb was “to reject”), but decided for “go for it” anyway & it was a good decision. It was 3 different fish fillets beautifully sautéed & sauced. No cheese course for me, but the desert was incredible chocolate mania !!! – a small cup of coffee with ice cream & chocolate drops which were partially melted, with a round of what was basically chocolate truffle filling topped with hard chocolate and (yes there was more !) a ball of chocolate sorbet. I figured that with the coffee & chocolate, the caffeine would keep me going for a week. Stu had the menu a 295FF starting with the foie gras in aspic – but unfortunately, we forgot to write down his remaining courses.
Sept ’03
We were the first people there; we remembered the hostess/co-owner from our prior visit: quite a character. Stu debated between the 24 and 35E menus, ultimately deciding on the 24E menu with langoustines & scallops as an a la carte addition. We had two wonderful Amuse Bouche courses: pastry cups filled with buttery sautéed cepes and a thin, fried crispy “tortilla” square topped with fromage blanc and then topped with a walnut. THEN, we had a small cup of cold potato vichyssoise soup garnished with chopped chives! Stu then had 3 langoustines and 3 scallops in a buttery saffron sauce, while I had a langoustine ravioli with a buttery crustacean sauce – so rich a sauce spoon was provided. We both had the cannette next (it was served on this menu for two only). This included the breast in a red wine reduction and a confit of the leg in a pilaf with vegetables. There was also a tian/quenelle made with a grain (described as ble, wheat on the menu). For dessert, Stu had an assortment of three chocolate decadences. I had a creation with meringue wafers alternating with layers of peach fondant, all with a peach coulis.
Sept ’05
The hostess was just as we remembered her from prior visits – quite a character. We discussed various topics of interest before and after the meal. We found out that she and her husband (the chef) had owned the restaurant for 25 years. We started with a plate of savories - pickled salmon on a toasted pastry, a luscious little tartlet filled with wild mushrooms, and a crème de foie gras on toast. We then had an amuse bouche of cream of leek soup with chives. We both had the 45E menu. Stu started with a presse (terrine) of chicken and foie gras, confit de pruneau, and a small side of frisee. His main course was grilled rascasse with saffron butter sauce, with broccoli & creamed root vegetables, garnished with chives. Cheese selections from the chariot. For dessert he had “all around chocolate” – chocolate sorbet, raspberry sorbet (granted – not chocolate, but a nice contrast), chocolate truffle in a small cup with a walnut half, a layered bittersweet chocolate hard “wafer” alternating with chocolate & caramel mousse. My choices were langoustine raviolis with crustacean sauce & julienned leeks & green onions. Breast of cannette with a vinegar reduction sauce & cubes of crispy-on-the-outside-&-creamy-on-the-inside potatoes (or perhaps polenta). Selections from the cheese cart, and then the same chocolate dessert as Stu.
June ‘09
Another wonderful dinner.
Le Presidial in Sarlat 05 53 28 92 47
Sept ‘05
We had reserved for dinner at the Presidial in Sarlat, but went to town early for a beer/wine before dinner. The evening was very warm and the townspeople/tourists who remained at 7PM were strolling without great purpose through the streets of town. We stopped at a café on the main square. Sarlat was simply magical at that time of evening. As we looked around the square and down the adjacent streets, it was rather awesome to think that the town is essentially as it was hundreds of years ago: stone buildings, some with half-timbering, some times awkwardly placed, one adjacent to another; imposing “public type” buildings next to smaller ones with their inconsistent, wildly sloping rooflines often set off by slate tiles glimmering in the last day sun rays. If straw were spread in the streets and the people changed into medieval garb, I hazard to say that you’d swear you had been catapulted several hundred years back in time.
Our dinner spot was absolutely captivating! I’m just speculating, but it seemed to have been a very upscale home at one time, made of golden stone with a black/charcoal slate roof with a small round corner tower and a dome/minaret shaped belvedere-type ornament perched in the middle of the roof. Since the evening was very warm & still, the dining was set up in the beautiful garden/courtyard. All this essentially in the middle of the center of Sarlat! I can’t imagine a more enchanting setting – I was truly in heaven. We had an amuse bouche plate of treats: smoked salmon slices with caviar on toast, puff npastry savories & cooked quail eggs with a creamy sauce.
Stu had the menu a 40E
-A coquille St Jacques salad – greens topped with several horizontally-sliced (but still joined) seared scallops, dressed with a lobster vinaigrette and topped with a small slice of foie gras poele, accompanied by tomato slices.
-Pigeoneau stuffed with cepes with a Perigord sauce, with pommes dauphinoise, & grilled eggplant.
-Cabecou on a bed of greens
-Tart tatin
I had the menu of 26E (still can’t believe the prices)
-Saumon marine: a boule of diced salmon “wrapped” in a thin salmon slice, served with a vinaigrette & herbs & capers
-Fillet of Daurade in a buttery fish stock sauce
-Cabecou
-Nougat Glacee, this time accompanied by a red berry sorbet.
We dined here again with friends. This time we dined inside and the décor/ambience was lovely. It was just as enjoyable as dining outside.
June ’09:
The dinner was not as elegant as it was on our two previous visits. However, the restaurant offered a very good 19E menu and another 25E menu. I’ll leave it in the “Top 6” – mainly because walking through Sarlat in the evening is remarkable, and the ambience of the restaurant is quite nice.
La Meynardie near Salignac-Eyvigues 05 53 28 85 98
Sept ‘05
This restaurant is in a farmhouse way out in the country, down a small road, in a forest. The restaurant is definitely off the beaten path, although there are signs all along the way to make sure you don’t get lost and/or simply give up on ever finding it because it’s in such an unlikely location. We took winding roads taking us through small, fairly non-descript, but typical French towns and continued farther and farther into the countryside. Then voila, there is was, isolated in a fairly wooded setting. We really felt like we’d done the ‘over the meadow and through the woods’ in getting there. The setting couldn’t be more “idealistic” for someone seeking a restaurant in the middle of nowhere. The “farmhouse” consisted of several buildings – one being the restaurant and outdoor dining terrace. The restaurant had a lovely traditional interior, but, as it continues to be very warm, dinner was served outside. It was a very pleasant setting – a dense arbor of grapevines sheltering a patio surrounded by bright geraniums & a tidy gravel courtyard with wonderful old stone outbuildings.
We started with a plate of quail eggs & diced tomatoes, black sausage, & foie gras on toast. The Amuse Bouche was a cold green vegetable soup. We speculated that spinach was among the greens in the soup.
Stu had the menu a 50E
-Risotto au ecrevisse, topped with a truffle slice. Three large ecrevisse were tented on top of the risotto –they had been shelled already (tho served with the shells in place), so no hand-to-hand combat (or a bib) was required to enjoy the course
-Lotte served with nettle butter, topped with a sauteed wild (meaty) mushroom and diced tomatoes, also with a slice of truffle.
-Pigeoneau served with a mushroom duxelle & potato gallette
-An assortment of 3 local cheeses with perfectly dressed greens with a “sweet” walnut vinaigrette
-Symphonie of Desserts – an amazing course with an equally amazing presentation – 7 individual items in all – on a large white square plate were:
-a soufflé Grand Marnier – a hollowed egg shell in an egg cup
-crème brulee – in a very small crème brulee cup
-Ille Flotante in a wonderfully shaped small glass
-Sorbet with a croustillant perched on top.
-Fruit “cocktail” with liqueur in another imaginatively shaped glass
-Chocolate fondant praline
-a chewy brownie-type square
I had the 31E menu, which was equally remarkable
-Foie Gras de canard prepared 2 ways
-Served layered with artichoke heart. I had presumed the foie would simply be set atop a heart, Nooo – far more sophisticated - it was if the choke heart had been pressed onto a small mold, then layered with a sweet apple slice, the layered with the luscious foie gras
-the second foie gras was served more classic “en terrine” – delicious – but here too the presentation was art: on a large frosted rectangular plate there was a grilled halved cherry tomato on a dollop of orange marmalade, apple slices with fig compote, the “en gelee’ wrapped in a slice of smoked magret, coarsely ground walnuts, a slice of truffle, fleur de sel, and walnut bread toasts
-Magret de Canard stuffed with cepes en croute. This was totally different from any magret I’ve ever had, in that it was not sliced thinly for serving, but was rather a half-breast with the mushroom duxelle in the center & then all wrapped in pastry. It was served with heavenly potatoes dauphinois, sautéed chanterelle mushrooms, and a deep reduction sauce!!!
-Astonishingly, I actually decided to decline the cabecou/salad cheese course
-Two slices of perhaps the best Nougat Glacee I’ve ever had – with crunchy, sugary bits of walnut contrasting with the smooth rice ice cream.
We dined here a second time with four internet friends.
June ’09 – closed for ‘09. I think it has closed permanently.
Le Manoire de Bellerive in le Buisson de Cadouin 05 53 22 16 16
June ‘09
Michelin 1 star
This restaurant backed to the Dordogne (on the back of the building) – oddly since the restaurant (at least the interior rooms that were open/available) overlooked the front of the building. This was a very classic manor-house style restaurant, with an elegant interior and service also outside on the terrace. You entered into a charming entryway/foyer and then proceeded into the dining rooms. Though it was a warm evening, we opted (as only a few others did) to eat inside, since the outside, while pleasant, with lovely table settings and comfortable cushioned chairs and surrounded by lawn/trees, seemed to offer less of a backdrop for a special dinner. We did, however, sit immediately adjacent to the large French doors which were opened up, so we felt we got the best of both worlds: seating in the elegant inside dining room while overlooking and enjoying the outdoors as well.
Presented with the usual dilemma of the degustation menus being offered only to the whole table, I went along with Stu’s pleading look and we both agreed to have the 70E Mushroom menu. Calling it the Mushroom Menu actually does the menu an injustice since, while mushrooms played a part in each plate, the selections were clearly well beyond that.
We started with 2 Amuse Bouches:
First Amuse Bouche:
- Melon soup with a melon ball wrapped in pancetta
- A pastry cone with chevre filling
- A “spoon” with ½ cherry tomato and tomato compote
Second Amuse Bouche:
- An oyster with chevre mousse with pureed green apple
- Oyster liqueur, foamed and served warm in a ‘spoon’
Dinner Courses
- Brittany lobster in mushroom cappuccino, with a dice of zucchini and mushrooms (awesome! – I wanted a quart to take home!)
- Osso bucco de lotte roti, with spinach leaves, chantrelles in ginger with vanilla sauce
- Duo of ris and poitrine de veau with a swath of parsley puree, morilles and peas in a rich veal stock reduction
- 4 cheeses with dark berry compote – including one local walnut-flavored cheese
- Pre-dessert: panna cotta with grenadine gelee, topped with whipped cream and blueberries, served in a martini glass
- Tower-shaped tiramisu cake layered as follows from the bottom up: cake layer – mushroom layer – ice cream layer
Accompanied by a Jaubertie Mirabella Rose
Le Grand Bleu in Sarlat 05 53 31 08 48
June ‘09
Michelin 1 star (Michelin 1 knife/fork – which is rare for a 1-star restaurant).
Although this was “only” a 1 knife/fork, my impression was that the restaurant was simple, but sophisticated and, minimally, the artwork displayed was truly memorable, but not in a classic ‘pleasing paintings on the wall’ sort of way. All the artwork was obviously done by one person and consisted of pieces/portions of metal signage arranged as a collage-type ‘painting’. Some of the pieces were multi-colored, as different signs tend to be, while one that I found to be particularly appealing and memorable was composed entirely of signs in red (for example the classic ‘do not enter’, sign and others that are harder to recall). The metal sign-based art drew my eye all evening and I truly believe I would have considered purchasing an all-red one if the opportunity had presented itself. I have never seen anything this unique and found it to be a refreshing contrast to the stylish somewhat classic French interior.
We started out with 3 amuse-bouche items: Smoked duck on a crisp, a St Pierre (fish) beignet, and ravioli stuffed with ricotta, olive, and walnut.
Stu had the menu a 60E:
- Langoustines on apple salad with Szechwan pepper and crustacean ice cream
- St. Pierre accompanied with a vegetable confit gateau (cake) served with a warm vinaigrette
- Ris de veau on a potato mousseline with shallot butter and port syrup
- Peach soufflé with peach confit, vanilla ice cream and warm chocolate sauce
Ellen had the menu a 33E
- Salmon sushi with mango basmati ice cream and combawa oil
- Cabillaud served on a nettle coulis with sweet garlic and argan oil
- (Same peach soufflé as Stu)
Great Restaurants at a very reasonable price
Le Relais des Cinque Chateau, in Vezac 05 53 30 30 72
You really can see 5 castles from the restaurant. There was a wedding party in progress, but we sat in an enclosed garden area which, while simple, was quite lovely. Stu examined the “menu de degustation” & pronounced it even “too much” for him !!, so he settled on “Le menu Beynac” (198FF). I had “Le Menu Terroir” (155FF). Though I had a 3 course meal, my actual first course was a small cup of thick tomato puree cold “soup” which was served as an additional amuse bouche (we had already had one) to equalize the number of courses, since Stu had five. I started officially then with a slice of cold foie gras with toasts (the prescribed method) followed by magret de canard with a rich reduced sauce accompanied by cepes, thin green beans, roasted potatoes, and ratatouille !! The dessert was a walnut soufflé (we are in walnut country here) served cold almost like ice cream, with a sort of walnut liqueur drizzled over all. I almost forgot to mention that my foie gras course included a glass of sweet local wine called Monbazillac. Stu started with foie gras cooked in phyllo pastry with a reduced late harvest wine sauce. This was followed by sandre (white fish) rolled & stuffed & served with a chive cream sauce with mushroom duxelles. Then he had a veal loin with morel & chanterelle mushrooms in a reduced sauce with accompaniments like mine. He then had a cheese course (3 selections from a quite varied tray) and the duo of chocolate for dessert – white & dark chocolate layered mousse with a pistachio cream sauce. A very relaxing & excellent 3 hour French meal.
Sept ’03
Stu had wanted the “Grand Menu” at 49E, but it was required for the entire table & I simply couldn’t sign up for a 7 (!!) course meal. So Stu consoled himself with the menu a 35E. He started with grilled daurade served on a bed of salicorns. Following this was magret de canard with a red wine reduction, served with a wedge of potatoes dauphinois wrapped with a bacon slice, accompanied by sliced peaches and a green bean & julienned carrot melange topped with a herbed grilled tomato. The cheese chariot was his next course. All this was concluded with a “chocolate caramel temptation” layered chocolate & pastry, topped with a caramel layer. I choose the menu a 21.50E, starting with a crustacean terrine (mousse texture) which was wrapped in a rouget fillet (cold) accompanied by 3 dollops of flavored “mayonaise” sauces. Then I had the rascasse (fish) served with a lobster chive cream sauce. My cheese course was a small young cabecou (goat) cheese with a green salad. The cheese was very flavorful & the lemony dressing on the greens was a good accompaniment. My dessert was a walnut parfait (ice cream) drizzled with a walnut liqueur (a real winner).
Sept 05
It had been a beautiful & very warm day, do dinner was served outside (a very plesent ambience with the notable nearby chateaux providing the views).
The amuse bouche included olives, pickled vegetables, small pastry savories, & halved tomatoes with mozzarella.
Stu had le menu a 36.50E Gourmande
-Assiette Perigordine with smoked magret, mach with walnut dressing topped with slices of summer truffles, foie gras 2 ways – mi-cuit with ground walnuts & sauteed with fleur du sel., accompanied by cherry compote, diced tomatoes, pink & white segments, a smoked maget & foie gras terrine, asparagus spear, & sprouts. Stu proclaimed this to be “the best yet”.
-Saint Jacques (scallops) & pineapple en brochette with a curry sauce served over salicorns, fava beans, root vegetables, & ratatouille.
-Surpreme de pintade with risotto & mushrooms with fried parsley/tomatoes.
-cheese course
-strawberries layered with croustillant and cream anglaise with strawberry coulis
I had the menu a 21.90E – it’s amazing that you can get an excellent dinner for this price.
-Gazpacho soup
-Rougets and leeks in a phyllo packet with a crustacean sauce served with salicorns, roasted tomatoes & rice
-to even things up with Stu’s additional course, I had another amuse bouche: a warm foie gras emulsion topped with a tomato puree, served in a tall glass.
-cheese course
-souflee glace with walnut dice & walnut liqueur – awesome!
This was truly an exceptional meal. The presentations were marvelous and the choices of menus and courses were fantastic. In fact, I made a last-minute change in menus – it was difficult to pick! Amazing value too: we both had kirs, 2 half-bottles of wine, Badoit, - 99E total.
We dined here a second time with friends who were visiting.
Belle Etoile, in Roque Gageac 05 53 29 51 44
We ate in their upstairs dining room looking out over the Dordogne. We had an amuse bouche of melon sorbet with Monbazillac (sweet) wine. Daddy & I each had the menu a 150FF. I had (my favorite) Rougets followed by a salad with goat cheese (cabecou) and, for dessert, a pastry “packet” with apples & walnuts with caramel sauce. Daddy had a fillet of beef, also with salad/chevre and a “chaud/froid” strawberry dessert with vanilla ice cream and Monbazillac sabayone. Stu had the menu a 195FF. He started with scallops sautéed on a bed of celery root puree with a “band” of carrots surrounding the scallops. He then had riz de veau (sweetbreads) & chevre salad.
Sept ’05
We dined in a different dining room on this visit. This one was east of the entrance, and a little more elegant than the other room.
Toasts with spiced avacado puree were on the table, and our Amuse Bouche was a pumpkin/chestnut veloute with whipped cream froth served in a tiny white soup tureen.
Stu had the menu a 37E:
-Fillet de Rouget in a bread crumb crust with a shellfish vinaigrette and tiny shellfish.
-Fillet of Boeuf with a Pecharmant (local red wine) sauce, a tart de pommes de terre and onion confit
-Warm cabecous salad
-Tart Tatin (like a miniature pie with a crinkled crust) with grand Marnier/Vanilla ice cream with a pool of crème anglaise on the side, drizzled with chocolate.
I had the menu a 23E
-Saumon marine – interesting presentation with the stripes of salmon wrapped around a bread stick (looking line a wand) accompanied by a herbed fromage blanc.
-Surpreme de Cannette with a green cabbage compote and potato gallette
Glazed strawberries with rosemary ice cream
Stu’s note – I almost never order beef in Europe because when I have, I’ve almost always been disappointed. The beef I ordered here was cooked perfectly, but the taste was not there. Prime beef in the US is much tastier.
We dined here again in ’09.
La Metarie east of les Eyzies de Tayac, just below Beyssac Chateau on the D47 05 53 29 65 32
Sept ’05
It had an attractive, very welcoming, very French décor (stone walls, pastel tablecloths, wood rush-seat chairs, several large wooden antique-style cupboards & buffets). We both had the 24.50E menu (Choices of 1 entrée/appetizer, 1 plat/main course, & 1 dessert from among many appealing choices). We started with a little plate of savory pastries and then an Amuse Bouche of the traditional garlic soup (appeared to be streaked with egg white);
Stu’s Menu:
-Riz d’Agneau, braised, with a reduction-type creamy sauce, accompanied by a mounded green salad and asparagus tips, served on a rectangular plate.
-Quail breast in a pastry crust, with mushrooms, vegetables inside. The quail legs were sauteed & served outside the pastry. This was accompanied by a long, crisp, dressed lettuce leaves and a tall glass of light vegetable emulsion
-Delice aus Chocolate (excellent, Stu says)
My Menu
-Salmon marine with 7-grain toast. Here, I must elaborate! I really like salmon marine, so I order it frequently, so I can claim to be a bit of a “subject matter expert”. This presentation (in spite of its modest description on the menu) was amazing. The salmon marine was thinly layered on a fairly thin bread, with a thin layer of “something herbed” between them. Interestingly, a circle had been cut from the middle of the bread/salmon square and, in that opening was a tall cylindrical (small) glass with a green/vegetable froth – almost like a vegetable or herbed whipped cream. Coarsely ground walnuts & snipped chives were sprinkled around the plate along with a dollop of caviar on the side. A bread stick was in the cylindrical glass.
-Fillet du Cabillaud on a bed of cepes & pastry with cepe cream sauce, served with a fricassee of girroles, asparagus tips, and a “cylinder” or ratatouille.
-A “verre au chocolate” dessert. A glass tumbler, layered with coffee mousse, chocolate, topped with coffee whipped cream.
We were both dazzled by this restaurant, not only for the wonderful food, and value (2 menus, 2 kirs, 2 half-bottles of wine, ½ badoit, for 82E), but also by the presentations and the ambience.
We dined here again in ’09.
Le Bistro de l’Octroi in Sarlat 05 53 30 83 40
June ‘09
This restaurant sits on a ‘point’ between 2 streets in Sarlat, not in the heart of the historic district, but somewhat outside that area, but still within the city. Though we would have ordinarily felt hesitant to sit outside under those circumstances, the terrace did look appealing while, the inside looked less so on a warm evening. It turned out that the terrace was very pleasant, not particularly noisy and I had a dreamy view of the late day sun bathing the old buildings across the way with golden light. The servers were a bit understaffed, so service was a bit slow, but the ambiance of the evening offset what might have been a too-slow meal.
As we had eaten many cheese and dessert courses over the past days, we both opted for the a la carte menu for our choices.
I had:
- The tartine of cabecous (goat cheese) with salad
- Poele (sautéed) scallops (noix de St. Jacques) with cepe sauce and a small square cepe frittata accompanied by white lentils
Stu had:
- Salad of ris d’agneau
- Scallops with sautéed foie gras and summer truffles and salad
- Lotte au saffron with a cepe frittato and while lentils
Other very good restaurants
Pres Gaillardou east of Roque Gageac on the Route to Vitrac 05 53 59 67 89
Sept ‘05
We started with an amuse bouche of Salmon Crème brulee topped with pistachio & tumeric bread crumbs.
Stu had the menu a 46E (toujours le gourmet/gourmand)
-Due of foie gras – mi cuit and poele, layered- starting with celery root, topped with toasted brioche, & then the foie gras, with raison & fig sauce
-Scallops with sun-dried tomatoes & linguini with pesto & fresh tomatoes, served on a large white shell shaped dish with shell-type ribbings.
-Lamb shank on a bed of buttered mashed potatoes with morilles & a reduction sauce
-grilled local cheese wrapped in phyllo with almonds & a dressed salad
-Caflouti
I had the menu a 28E
-carpachio of magret de canard with foie gras oil with pistachios & walnuts & salad greens – absolutely heavenly & a meal in itself
-Sandre & moules poached in saffron cream with zucchini polenta
-same cheese as Stu
-Souffle glace with honey & lemon & peach sauce
Le Moulin de l’Abbaye in Brantome 05 53 05 80 52
Sept ’05
We had reserved at the 1-star Le Moulin de l’Abbaye – and inn/restaurant in an absolutely gorgeous setting along the river, with rolling lawns & flowers out to the water’s edge.
We both had the menu a 75E (clearly a 1 star spot!)
We started out (the pre-amuse bouche) with a plate of goodies: melon & raspberries speared on toothpicks, cherry tomatoes on round breads with a small dash of pesto between them, bread rounds layered with thick country ham/bacon topped with a dollop of pesto & melted cheese, and 2 pastry “horns” filled with Brandade.. The horns were spiked into small white soup bowl & secured in place with dried lentils.
The Amuse Bouche course followed:
-a green vegetable emulsion in a glass with a straw. It was served on a frosty rectangular plate with marinated red pepper strips, artichoke heart and some sort of “terrine/meat” cube.
My Menu:
-Marinated Sturgeon in a lemon/dill en gelee-type “sauce”, served in a martini glass topped with caviar and several small dollops of salted whipped cream, accompanied by buckwheat blinis.
-Bar (fish) fillet with langoustines on a bed of spinach with a fricasee of girolles. The fish was served with a miso type sweet ingredient.
-Cheese chariot – they had our favorite – Epoisse from Burgundy
-Raspberry and hibiscus compote with layers of meringue-like puff pastry, red berry coulis and a rich vanilla ice cream
Stu’s menu:
-a cold terrine of sweetbreads & leeks, wrapped in proscuitto with vinaigrette and chestnut dice
-Whole roasted pigeon with foie gras & toast and summer savory & a ragout of artichoke heart & green beans, served in a reduction sauce.
-Slow-poached peach served with honey & thyme with shortbread & almond ice cream.
We also had a “pre” and “post” dessert courses
Pre – a 3 layered warm dessert served in a glass. Bottom layer was barley sweetened rice cooked in milk, middle layer was warm caramel, and top layer was a pear compote.
Post – 2 small cold crème brulees, 2 small profiteroles and raspberry pastry tarts.
La Treille in Vitrac 05 53 28 33 19
This is a small, low key family owned hotel/restaurant in a nice setting. We ate in a glass-enclosed dining room that could be opened to the outdoors in warmer weather. I had the menu a 138FF. We both had an amuse bouche of smoked magret de canard with melon. I started with the marinated salmon (diced with olive oil, onions, cucumber, & tomato), followed by fillets de rougets (red mullet fish) served with tapenade. This dish was simply awesome !! I then had another amuse bouche. This was, I believe, intended to somewhat equalize the number of courses between Stu & me (the server said I would be waiting between courses because of Stu’s selection & all I could say was “c’est normale”). I choose what seemed to be the lightest dessert: 2 balls of sorbet (I asked for only one – cassis), & even that was way beyond simple – it was served with a splash of some sort of liqueur & topped with a light cookie/gallette. Stu had the menu a 235FF. He too had a special amuse bouche of seared foie gras, followed with a crustacean soup – creamy with chunks of seafood plus several langoustines at the bottom of the bowl. Then Stu had a “tart” with pastry, caramelized turnips and seared foie gras. Then !! Stu had 3 pieces of white fish sautéed and served on a bed of cepes, fava beans, & accompanied by a “signature” garnish of small tubes of cooked pasta, stuffed with cheese & then sautéed. This was followed by a “breather” course of sorbet mirabelle – that is, plum sorbet with prune liqueur. Then came a pastry packet of pigeon breasts (squab) with candied nuts and a perigord sauce. The legs of the squab were roasted & served outside the packet. With a paltry !! number of courses, the dessert was preceded by a “small dessert” – a crème brulee served warm. The “real” dessert was a rich chocolate gateau served with coffee ice cream. Incredibly, Stu’s meal (excluding the amuse bouche for the table) was 8 courses !!! Even more remarkabely was the fact that this meal for the two of us, with 2 aperitifs, 2 half-bottles of wine, and a bottle of mineral water was a total of 583FF including service/tip and taxes. With the current exchange, this was $80. We both agreed that this may be one of the best meals we have had in France & from a “value” point of view, it may be the best. We talked about how wonderful it was all the way back to the Gite.
We ate at La Treille twice.
Sept ’03
Stu had the menu a 34E, and I had the menu a 24E. Stu also added to his menu, a pigeon dish (a la carte) which was one he remembered from our prior trip. We started with an amuse bouche for the table: pastries with tomato & also pastry wrapped boudin sausages. Stu’s next course was roasted garlic soup, and when it arrived I was served a second amuse bouche of crème de langoustines soup, so that I would have something to nibble on while Stu had his added courses. Stu then proceeded with foie gras pot au feu with carrots & parsnips, followed by a fish course of sandre atop a red wine reduction sauce & served with carrots & zucchini cut into an elliptical shape. Next came his piece de resistance: rare pigeon breast in a philo pastry packet. Also inside the packet was a huge slice of foie gras. This not only added to the flavor, also the foie gras oil melted into the pigeon breasts. The legs and thighs were deep fried & served alongside the pastry packet. The packet was served on top of a reduced game sauce & summer truffles. Also on the plate was the restaurant’s signature pasta tubes & cheese, plus carrots & zucchini. For his cheese course, Stu had a cabacou round served on top of toast with honey drizzled over the top. For dessert, he had a “soft” (melting) chocolate cake with chocolate sorbet. I started with a salad aux senteurs du Perigord – not your typical green salad, but rathar a small serving of greens accompanied by typical flavors of the area: gesiers, smoked magret, candied walnuts, & terrine of foie gras. This was followed by rouget fillets – some topped with tapenade & some garnished with diced tomato, onoin, & red pepper. I had walnut ice cream drizzled with walnut liqeur for dessert. When the bill came, Stu expected to see the full price for the a la cart order of pigeon, but saw only a 7.50E “supplement”. When we questioned this, our server said the chef had adjusted the size of Stu’s fish course, resulting only in the supplement, rather than the full a la cart price.
Sept ’05
Things have changed. When we “scouted out” this restaurant, the menu selections had changed dramatically. The interesting & creative items we dined on before, were nowhere to be found on the menu. It seemed like they “dumbed down” the selections, so now it’s now primarily a foie gras, magret, and beef menu. I cook an excellent magret with cassis & peppercorn sauce at home and in Gites while in France, and we always pick up a “log” of mi-cuit foie gras at the market in St Cyprien. I also don’t order beef in France – I think ours in the US is tastier (see Belle Etoile description).
Hostellerie de la Bouriane, in Gourdon 05 65 41 16 37
The dining room was “classic French” – fairly simple in a room with a large stone hearth, heavy draperies, large wood serving cabinet, chairs with rush seats, & tables with pink tablecloths. Elegant, comfortable, and not at all stuffy. I had the menu a 160FF, starting with the poultry terrine, followed by a whole grilled bar. The fish was fabulous & a very pleasant treat on the 160FF menu. It was served on a bed of thick herbed butter sauce. A cheese tray was presented with a number of choices. As it was rolled over, the server carefully lifted a “towel” that was protecting the freshness of the cheeses. For dessert, I chose the walnut cake with crème anglaise. Since walnuts are a local specialty this seemed an appropriate choice tho’ this version seemed more pastry than a cake. In any case, it was excellent. Stu had the menu a 230FF. He started with an interesting aperitif (de la region) – Crème de noix and cassis with red Cahors wine. Quite good, tho’ it does sound strange! Next came two very large slices of mi-cuit foie gras (an unfathomable quantity at home), followed by a fillet of beef with Perigordine sauce (rich & dark). He too had the cheese course, followed by a fruit tart with vanilla ice cream.
Hotel Madeleine, in Sarlat 05 53 59 10 41
I had the meal a 168FF, starting with a garlic & onion soup which (thankfully) was subtly flavored with both & had a slightly thickened consistency. I then had salmon marinated with fennel & chives, followed by a chicken leg (jambonette de poulet) stuffed with aromatic ingredients & served with a zucchini flan & green peppercorn sauce. I chose cassis sorbet for dessert which, since the French can’t bear a plain dessert, was “dolled up” with small cookies. Stu had the menu a 250FF, starting with a lentil soup that was exquisite. This was followed by Lotte with caramelized orange sauce & orange segments, then (!) with “cou d’Oeil”(literary, “neck of goose”) in a almost black dark sauce called civet (which we later, unfortunately, found out to be a blood sauce!!!). He had tiramisu for dessert which was presented from an incredible chariot- dark polished wood frame with giant casters and an enormous gliding silver dome.
Restaurants we dined at, but would not recommend
Hotel du Chateau near Le Bugue
La Borderie in Taminies
L’Esterel in Marquay
Restaurants we “checked out”, but the menu did not seem interesting enough, or the décor was not “charming” enough
La Ferme de Maraval in Cenac
Auberge des Platanes in Roque Gageac
Plasaince in Vitrac
Ferme Auberge le Colombier in Vitrac
Quatra Saisons in Sarlat
Rosignol in Sarlat
Aub des Lys d’Or in Sarlat
Remparts in Beynac
La Petite Tonnelle in Beynac
Gabarrier in Ales les Mines – seems overpriced too
Stu Dudley
Restaurants
My wife and our friends consider me to be a gourmet chef. Many say that they would rather eat at our house, than dine at restaurants in San Francisco. Fine dinners are very important to us. When I consider an area to visit in France, one of the first things I do is to get out the Red Michelin guide and make sure there are plenty of restaurants in the area. Upon arrival at a Gite, the first day is usually spent scurrying about and checking out the menus at the various restaurants that are close by. We usually eliminate about 20% of the restaurants that are on my list because the menu isn’t interesting enough. I like to eat at places where I will be served something new, creative, or places with a multi course fixed price selection. Six to eight courses (small courses) are what I look for. My wife can’t go for more than about four courses. We dine at about 30 to 40 restaurants in France each year. We can’t afford to do that if we eat at expensive places. If there is one thing that I’ve discovered in my 25 years of traveling in France, it’s that you don’t have to pay big bucks to get good meals.
In the Dordogne, most restaurants have Magret du Canard (duck breast) on the menu. This is something I prepare at home quite often. I always cook it several times at the Gite when we vacation in France. Therefore I never order it at restaurants, and I bypass restaurants where it’s about the only thing on the menu – which is often the case in the Dordogne.
The following is from my wife’s diary, covering our 2 week trip to the Dordogne in Sept ’00, with updates from our one week Sept ’03, four week ’05, and 2 week ‘09 trips.
Sept ’09 trip note:
What a difference 4 years makes! After our ’05 vacation, I developed this itinerary and selected 6 restaurants that I though were excellent and superior to the others. Since then, Jardin d’Epicure in St Cyprien closed (in ‘07 or ‘08). When we arrived in the Dordogne in June of ’09, two others were closed – La Meynardie near Salignac-Eyvigues, and Velo Rouge in la Bugue. La Maynardie had a big sign outside the restaurant that indicated they would be closed for ’09. However, the place was not boarded-up or in use as another enterprise, and there were sill placards along the road directing drivers to the restaurant (the placards, however, had “Ferme” printed on them). I’ll leave la Marnardie in my description below in case it opens in ’10. In addition, several restaurants reduced the number of selections on their menus, took some of my favorite dishes off the menu (perhaps “dumbed down” the menu a bit), but also offered lower priced “fixed price” selections. This is good for budget travelers, but I was disappointed. We also noticed that cheese courses were disappearing or becoming optional.
The Top Six
L’Esplanade in Domme 05 53 28 31 41
http://esplanade-perigord.com/
This is a Michelin 1 star restaurant. (lost star in ’02)
We had a great table by a window overlooking the Dordogne. Though a 1 star restaurant, the service was most pleasant We had a great dinner, Daddy & I each had the “turban of eggplant caviar”. The turban was a slice of marinated eggplant wrapped around caviar. This was followed by lotte (monkfish) en casserole. Daddy started with lobster bisque, then followed with filleted sole with cepes. Stu had the menu a 380FF. He started with a pan seared foie gras, then lobster ragout with a potato millefeuille. Then, he had lamb with truffle slices with a vegetable flan and a “package” of other vegetables. We had a cheese course & selections from the dessert chariot. The dessert chariot was the restaurant serving piece equivalent of an architecture “folly”. The chariot incorporated all sorts of swiveling trays, shelves, and lids – accommodating all the gateaux (with a heavy leaning toward chocolate), the bowls of fruit based sweets, and a number of sauce boats with the “de rigeur” selection of sauces appropriate to each dessert selection. Chocolate mint cake landed on Stu’s & my plate, & daddy went for the Black Forest cake.
Sept ‘05
We did not dine at l’Esplanade when we visited the Dordogne in ’03. We had heard a few rumblings that it had slipped a bit. We returned in ’05, and thought it was as good (if not better) than ever.
We had an attractive plate of Amuse Bouche items – a small cup of vichyssoise, saumon marine on toast, prosciutto wrapped around melon, a slice of pate en croute. Stu had the menu a 50E. Cepes presse (terrine) in pastry topped with several large meaty sautéed fresh cepes with a light veal stock sauce. Then he had a demi-pigeon roti (a point) served with an exquisite deep, dark colored game sauce. It was accompanied by strips of roasted carrots & parsnips & a cube of crisp polenta speared with a cherry tomato. I had the menu a 42E. Thin “sheets”/slices of Sandre marine, served with marinated vegetables layered with crispy light pastry. Then I had Pintade stuffed with herbs under the skin – cooked to perfection – velvety, buttery texture with a light butter game sauce. We both had dessert selections from the dessert chariot - and what an awesome set of choices!! Pineapple tart/orange tart, cups of berries, fruit napoleons – but Stu had the chocolate/caramel “dome” with crème anglaise, and I had the chocolate ganache (maximum, strength chocolate) with red berry coulis.
June ‘09
Dinner was excellent – just as we remembered from past visits. However, the cheese selection was not as large, and the dessert ‘chariot” disappeared – replaced by a choice of about 3 options.
La Plume d’Oie in Roque Gageac 05 53 29 57 05
This restaurant is right on the road bordering the Dordogne. We both started with the house aperitif (couldn’t quite put our finger on the contents, but it may have had some peach liqueur). I had the menu a 195 FF, starting with what was called a “bisque”, but actually was 2 lobster ravioli (perfect pasta with melt in your mouth stuffing), with a fabulous lobster sauce. Then I had the “declinaition” of fish. Although I had my dictionary, I could not find this word defined in a food context (the related verb was “to reject”), but decided for “go for it” anyway & it was a good decision. It was 3 different fish fillets beautifully sautéed & sauced. No cheese course for me, but the desert was incredible chocolate mania !!! – a small cup of coffee with ice cream & chocolate drops which were partially melted, with a round of what was basically chocolate truffle filling topped with hard chocolate and (yes there was more !) a ball of chocolate sorbet. I figured that with the coffee & chocolate, the caffeine would keep me going for a week. Stu had the menu a 295FF starting with the foie gras in aspic – but unfortunately, we forgot to write down his remaining courses.
Sept ’03
We were the first people there; we remembered the hostess/co-owner from our prior visit: quite a character. Stu debated between the 24 and 35E menus, ultimately deciding on the 24E menu with langoustines & scallops as an a la carte addition. We had two wonderful Amuse Bouche courses: pastry cups filled with buttery sautéed cepes and a thin, fried crispy “tortilla” square topped with fromage blanc and then topped with a walnut. THEN, we had a small cup of cold potato vichyssoise soup garnished with chopped chives! Stu then had 3 langoustines and 3 scallops in a buttery saffron sauce, while I had a langoustine ravioli with a buttery crustacean sauce – so rich a sauce spoon was provided. We both had the cannette next (it was served on this menu for two only). This included the breast in a red wine reduction and a confit of the leg in a pilaf with vegetables. There was also a tian/quenelle made with a grain (described as ble, wheat on the menu). For dessert, Stu had an assortment of three chocolate decadences. I had a creation with meringue wafers alternating with layers of peach fondant, all with a peach coulis.
Sept ’05
The hostess was just as we remembered her from prior visits – quite a character. We discussed various topics of interest before and after the meal. We found out that she and her husband (the chef) had owned the restaurant for 25 years. We started with a plate of savories - pickled salmon on a toasted pastry, a luscious little tartlet filled with wild mushrooms, and a crème de foie gras on toast. We then had an amuse bouche of cream of leek soup with chives. We both had the 45E menu. Stu started with a presse (terrine) of chicken and foie gras, confit de pruneau, and a small side of frisee. His main course was grilled rascasse with saffron butter sauce, with broccoli & creamed root vegetables, garnished with chives. Cheese selections from the chariot. For dessert he had “all around chocolate” – chocolate sorbet, raspberry sorbet (granted – not chocolate, but a nice contrast), chocolate truffle in a small cup with a walnut half, a layered bittersweet chocolate hard “wafer” alternating with chocolate & caramel mousse. My choices were langoustine raviolis with crustacean sauce & julienned leeks & green onions. Breast of cannette with a vinegar reduction sauce & cubes of crispy-on-the-outside-&-creamy-on-the-inside potatoes (or perhaps polenta). Selections from the cheese cart, and then the same chocolate dessert as Stu.
June ‘09
Another wonderful dinner.
Le Presidial in Sarlat 05 53 28 92 47
Sept ‘05
We had reserved for dinner at the Presidial in Sarlat, but went to town early for a beer/wine before dinner. The evening was very warm and the townspeople/tourists who remained at 7PM were strolling without great purpose through the streets of town. We stopped at a café on the main square. Sarlat was simply magical at that time of evening. As we looked around the square and down the adjacent streets, it was rather awesome to think that the town is essentially as it was hundreds of years ago: stone buildings, some with half-timbering, some times awkwardly placed, one adjacent to another; imposing “public type” buildings next to smaller ones with their inconsistent, wildly sloping rooflines often set off by slate tiles glimmering in the last day sun rays. If straw were spread in the streets and the people changed into medieval garb, I hazard to say that you’d swear you had been catapulted several hundred years back in time.
Our dinner spot was absolutely captivating! I’m just speculating, but it seemed to have been a very upscale home at one time, made of golden stone with a black/charcoal slate roof with a small round corner tower and a dome/minaret shaped belvedere-type ornament perched in the middle of the roof. Since the evening was very warm & still, the dining was set up in the beautiful garden/courtyard. All this essentially in the middle of the center of Sarlat! I can’t imagine a more enchanting setting – I was truly in heaven. We had an amuse bouche plate of treats: smoked salmon slices with caviar on toast, puff npastry savories & cooked quail eggs with a creamy sauce.
Stu had the menu a 40E
-A coquille St Jacques salad – greens topped with several horizontally-sliced (but still joined) seared scallops, dressed with a lobster vinaigrette and topped with a small slice of foie gras poele, accompanied by tomato slices.
-Pigeoneau stuffed with cepes with a Perigord sauce, with pommes dauphinoise, & grilled eggplant.
-Cabecou on a bed of greens
-Tart tatin
I had the menu of 26E (still can’t believe the prices)
-Saumon marine: a boule of diced salmon “wrapped” in a thin salmon slice, served with a vinaigrette & herbs & capers
-Fillet of Daurade in a buttery fish stock sauce
-Cabecou
-Nougat Glacee, this time accompanied by a red berry sorbet.
We dined here again with friends. This time we dined inside and the décor/ambience was lovely. It was just as enjoyable as dining outside.
June ’09:
The dinner was not as elegant as it was on our two previous visits. However, the restaurant offered a very good 19E menu and another 25E menu. I’ll leave it in the “Top 6” – mainly because walking through Sarlat in the evening is remarkable, and the ambience of the restaurant is quite nice.
La Meynardie near Salignac-Eyvigues 05 53 28 85 98
Sept ‘05
This restaurant is in a farmhouse way out in the country, down a small road, in a forest. The restaurant is definitely off the beaten path, although there are signs all along the way to make sure you don’t get lost and/or simply give up on ever finding it because it’s in such an unlikely location. We took winding roads taking us through small, fairly non-descript, but typical French towns and continued farther and farther into the countryside. Then voila, there is was, isolated in a fairly wooded setting. We really felt like we’d done the ‘over the meadow and through the woods’ in getting there. The setting couldn’t be more “idealistic” for someone seeking a restaurant in the middle of nowhere. The “farmhouse” consisted of several buildings – one being the restaurant and outdoor dining terrace. The restaurant had a lovely traditional interior, but, as it continues to be very warm, dinner was served outside. It was a very pleasant setting – a dense arbor of grapevines sheltering a patio surrounded by bright geraniums & a tidy gravel courtyard with wonderful old stone outbuildings.
We started with a plate of quail eggs & diced tomatoes, black sausage, & foie gras on toast. The Amuse Bouche was a cold green vegetable soup. We speculated that spinach was among the greens in the soup.
Stu had the menu a 50E
-Risotto au ecrevisse, topped with a truffle slice. Three large ecrevisse were tented on top of the risotto –they had been shelled already (tho served with the shells in place), so no hand-to-hand combat (or a bib) was required to enjoy the course
-Lotte served with nettle butter, topped with a sauteed wild (meaty) mushroom and diced tomatoes, also with a slice of truffle.
-Pigeoneau served with a mushroom duxelle & potato gallette
-An assortment of 3 local cheeses with perfectly dressed greens with a “sweet” walnut vinaigrette
-Symphonie of Desserts – an amazing course with an equally amazing presentation – 7 individual items in all – on a large white square plate were:
-a soufflé Grand Marnier – a hollowed egg shell in an egg cup
-crème brulee – in a very small crème brulee cup
-Ille Flotante in a wonderfully shaped small glass
-Sorbet with a croustillant perched on top.
-Fruit “cocktail” with liqueur in another imaginatively shaped glass
-Chocolate fondant praline
-a chewy brownie-type square
I had the 31E menu, which was equally remarkable
-Foie Gras de canard prepared 2 ways
-Served layered with artichoke heart. I had presumed the foie would simply be set atop a heart, Nooo – far more sophisticated - it was if the choke heart had been pressed onto a small mold, then layered with a sweet apple slice, the layered with the luscious foie gras
-the second foie gras was served more classic “en terrine” – delicious – but here too the presentation was art: on a large frosted rectangular plate there was a grilled halved cherry tomato on a dollop of orange marmalade, apple slices with fig compote, the “en gelee’ wrapped in a slice of smoked magret, coarsely ground walnuts, a slice of truffle, fleur de sel, and walnut bread toasts
-Magret de Canard stuffed with cepes en croute. This was totally different from any magret I’ve ever had, in that it was not sliced thinly for serving, but was rather a half-breast with the mushroom duxelle in the center & then all wrapped in pastry. It was served with heavenly potatoes dauphinois, sautéed chanterelle mushrooms, and a deep reduction sauce!!!
-Astonishingly, I actually decided to decline the cabecou/salad cheese course
-Two slices of perhaps the best Nougat Glacee I’ve ever had – with crunchy, sugary bits of walnut contrasting with the smooth rice ice cream.
We dined here a second time with four internet friends.
June ’09 – closed for ‘09. I think it has closed permanently.
Le Manoire de Bellerive in le Buisson de Cadouin 05 53 22 16 16
June ‘09
Michelin 1 star
This restaurant backed to the Dordogne (on the back of the building) – oddly since the restaurant (at least the interior rooms that were open/available) overlooked the front of the building. This was a very classic manor-house style restaurant, with an elegant interior and service also outside on the terrace. You entered into a charming entryway/foyer and then proceeded into the dining rooms. Though it was a warm evening, we opted (as only a few others did) to eat inside, since the outside, while pleasant, with lovely table settings and comfortable cushioned chairs and surrounded by lawn/trees, seemed to offer less of a backdrop for a special dinner. We did, however, sit immediately adjacent to the large French doors which were opened up, so we felt we got the best of both worlds: seating in the elegant inside dining room while overlooking and enjoying the outdoors as well.
Presented with the usual dilemma of the degustation menus being offered only to the whole table, I went along with Stu’s pleading look and we both agreed to have the 70E Mushroom menu. Calling it the Mushroom Menu actually does the menu an injustice since, while mushrooms played a part in each plate, the selections were clearly well beyond that.
We started with 2 Amuse Bouches:
First Amuse Bouche:
- Melon soup with a melon ball wrapped in pancetta
- A pastry cone with chevre filling
- A “spoon” with ½ cherry tomato and tomato compote
Second Amuse Bouche:
- An oyster with chevre mousse with pureed green apple
- Oyster liqueur, foamed and served warm in a ‘spoon’
Dinner Courses
- Brittany lobster in mushroom cappuccino, with a dice of zucchini and mushrooms (awesome! – I wanted a quart to take home!)
- Osso bucco de lotte roti, with spinach leaves, chantrelles in ginger with vanilla sauce
- Duo of ris and poitrine de veau with a swath of parsley puree, morilles and peas in a rich veal stock reduction
- 4 cheeses with dark berry compote – including one local walnut-flavored cheese
- Pre-dessert: panna cotta with grenadine gelee, topped with whipped cream and blueberries, served in a martini glass
- Tower-shaped tiramisu cake layered as follows from the bottom up: cake layer – mushroom layer – ice cream layer
Accompanied by a Jaubertie Mirabella Rose
Le Grand Bleu in Sarlat 05 53 31 08 48
June ‘09
Michelin 1 star (Michelin 1 knife/fork – which is rare for a 1-star restaurant).
Although this was “only” a 1 knife/fork, my impression was that the restaurant was simple, but sophisticated and, minimally, the artwork displayed was truly memorable, but not in a classic ‘pleasing paintings on the wall’ sort of way. All the artwork was obviously done by one person and consisted of pieces/portions of metal signage arranged as a collage-type ‘painting’. Some of the pieces were multi-colored, as different signs tend to be, while one that I found to be particularly appealing and memorable was composed entirely of signs in red (for example the classic ‘do not enter’, sign and others that are harder to recall). The metal sign-based art drew my eye all evening and I truly believe I would have considered purchasing an all-red one if the opportunity had presented itself. I have never seen anything this unique and found it to be a refreshing contrast to the stylish somewhat classic French interior.
We started out with 3 amuse-bouche items: Smoked duck on a crisp, a St Pierre (fish) beignet, and ravioli stuffed with ricotta, olive, and walnut.
Stu had the menu a 60E:
- Langoustines on apple salad with Szechwan pepper and crustacean ice cream
- St. Pierre accompanied with a vegetable confit gateau (cake) served with a warm vinaigrette
- Ris de veau on a potato mousseline with shallot butter and port syrup
- Peach soufflé with peach confit, vanilla ice cream and warm chocolate sauce
Ellen had the menu a 33E
- Salmon sushi with mango basmati ice cream and combawa oil
- Cabillaud served on a nettle coulis with sweet garlic and argan oil
- (Same peach soufflé as Stu)
Great Restaurants at a very reasonable price
Le Relais des Cinque Chateau, in Vezac 05 53 30 30 72
You really can see 5 castles from the restaurant. There was a wedding party in progress, but we sat in an enclosed garden area which, while simple, was quite lovely. Stu examined the “menu de degustation” & pronounced it even “too much” for him !!, so he settled on “Le menu Beynac” (198FF). I had “Le Menu Terroir” (155FF). Though I had a 3 course meal, my actual first course was a small cup of thick tomato puree cold “soup” which was served as an additional amuse bouche (we had already had one) to equalize the number of courses, since Stu had five. I started officially then with a slice of cold foie gras with toasts (the prescribed method) followed by magret de canard with a rich reduced sauce accompanied by cepes, thin green beans, roasted potatoes, and ratatouille !! The dessert was a walnut soufflé (we are in walnut country here) served cold almost like ice cream, with a sort of walnut liqueur drizzled over all. I almost forgot to mention that my foie gras course included a glass of sweet local wine called Monbazillac. Stu started with foie gras cooked in phyllo pastry with a reduced late harvest wine sauce. This was followed by sandre (white fish) rolled & stuffed & served with a chive cream sauce with mushroom duxelles. Then he had a veal loin with morel & chanterelle mushrooms in a reduced sauce with accompaniments like mine. He then had a cheese course (3 selections from a quite varied tray) and the duo of chocolate for dessert – white & dark chocolate layered mousse with a pistachio cream sauce. A very relaxing & excellent 3 hour French meal.
Sept ’03
Stu had wanted the “Grand Menu” at 49E, but it was required for the entire table & I simply couldn’t sign up for a 7 (!!) course meal. So Stu consoled himself with the menu a 35E. He started with grilled daurade served on a bed of salicorns. Following this was magret de canard with a red wine reduction, served with a wedge of potatoes dauphinois wrapped with a bacon slice, accompanied by sliced peaches and a green bean & julienned carrot melange topped with a herbed grilled tomato. The cheese chariot was his next course. All this was concluded with a “chocolate caramel temptation” layered chocolate & pastry, topped with a caramel layer. I choose the menu a 21.50E, starting with a crustacean terrine (mousse texture) which was wrapped in a rouget fillet (cold) accompanied by 3 dollops of flavored “mayonaise” sauces. Then I had the rascasse (fish) served with a lobster chive cream sauce. My cheese course was a small young cabecou (goat) cheese with a green salad. The cheese was very flavorful & the lemony dressing on the greens was a good accompaniment. My dessert was a walnut parfait (ice cream) drizzled with a walnut liqueur (a real winner).
Sept 05
It had been a beautiful & very warm day, do dinner was served outside (a very plesent ambience with the notable nearby chateaux providing the views).
The amuse bouche included olives, pickled vegetables, small pastry savories, & halved tomatoes with mozzarella.
Stu had le menu a 36.50E Gourmande
-Assiette Perigordine with smoked magret, mach with walnut dressing topped with slices of summer truffles, foie gras 2 ways – mi-cuit with ground walnuts & sauteed with fleur du sel., accompanied by cherry compote, diced tomatoes, pink & white segments, a smoked maget & foie gras terrine, asparagus spear, & sprouts. Stu proclaimed this to be “the best yet”.
-Saint Jacques (scallops) & pineapple en brochette with a curry sauce served over salicorns, fava beans, root vegetables, & ratatouille.
-Surpreme de pintade with risotto & mushrooms with fried parsley/tomatoes.
-cheese course
-strawberries layered with croustillant and cream anglaise with strawberry coulis
I had the menu a 21.90E – it’s amazing that you can get an excellent dinner for this price.
-Gazpacho soup
-Rougets and leeks in a phyllo packet with a crustacean sauce served with salicorns, roasted tomatoes & rice
-to even things up with Stu’s additional course, I had another amuse bouche: a warm foie gras emulsion topped with a tomato puree, served in a tall glass.
-cheese course
-souflee glace with walnut dice & walnut liqueur – awesome!
This was truly an exceptional meal. The presentations were marvelous and the choices of menus and courses were fantastic. In fact, I made a last-minute change in menus – it was difficult to pick! Amazing value too: we both had kirs, 2 half-bottles of wine, Badoit, - 99E total.
We dined here a second time with friends who were visiting.
Belle Etoile, in Roque Gageac 05 53 29 51 44
We ate in their upstairs dining room looking out over the Dordogne. We had an amuse bouche of melon sorbet with Monbazillac (sweet) wine. Daddy & I each had the menu a 150FF. I had (my favorite) Rougets followed by a salad with goat cheese (cabecou) and, for dessert, a pastry “packet” with apples & walnuts with caramel sauce. Daddy had a fillet of beef, also with salad/chevre and a “chaud/froid” strawberry dessert with vanilla ice cream and Monbazillac sabayone. Stu had the menu a 195FF. He started with scallops sautéed on a bed of celery root puree with a “band” of carrots surrounding the scallops. He then had riz de veau (sweetbreads) & chevre salad.
Sept ’05
We dined in a different dining room on this visit. This one was east of the entrance, and a little more elegant than the other room.
Toasts with spiced avacado puree were on the table, and our Amuse Bouche was a pumpkin/chestnut veloute with whipped cream froth served in a tiny white soup tureen.
Stu had the menu a 37E:
-Fillet de Rouget in a bread crumb crust with a shellfish vinaigrette and tiny shellfish.
-Fillet of Boeuf with a Pecharmant (local red wine) sauce, a tart de pommes de terre and onion confit
-Warm cabecous salad
-Tart Tatin (like a miniature pie with a crinkled crust) with grand Marnier/Vanilla ice cream with a pool of crème anglaise on the side, drizzled with chocolate.
I had the menu a 23E
-Saumon marine – interesting presentation with the stripes of salmon wrapped around a bread stick (looking line a wand) accompanied by a herbed fromage blanc.
-Surpreme de Cannette with a green cabbage compote and potato gallette
Glazed strawberries with rosemary ice cream
Stu’s note – I almost never order beef in Europe because when I have, I’ve almost always been disappointed. The beef I ordered here was cooked perfectly, but the taste was not there. Prime beef in the US is much tastier.
We dined here again in ’09.
La Metarie east of les Eyzies de Tayac, just below Beyssac Chateau on the D47 05 53 29 65 32
Sept ’05
It had an attractive, very welcoming, very French décor (stone walls, pastel tablecloths, wood rush-seat chairs, several large wooden antique-style cupboards & buffets). We both had the 24.50E menu (Choices of 1 entrée/appetizer, 1 plat/main course, & 1 dessert from among many appealing choices). We started with a little plate of savory pastries and then an Amuse Bouche of the traditional garlic soup (appeared to be streaked with egg white);
Stu’s Menu:
-Riz d’Agneau, braised, with a reduction-type creamy sauce, accompanied by a mounded green salad and asparagus tips, served on a rectangular plate.
-Quail breast in a pastry crust, with mushrooms, vegetables inside. The quail legs were sauteed & served outside the pastry. This was accompanied by a long, crisp, dressed lettuce leaves and a tall glass of light vegetable emulsion
-Delice aus Chocolate (excellent, Stu says)
My Menu
-Salmon marine with 7-grain toast. Here, I must elaborate! I really like salmon marine, so I order it frequently, so I can claim to be a bit of a “subject matter expert”. This presentation (in spite of its modest description on the menu) was amazing. The salmon marine was thinly layered on a fairly thin bread, with a thin layer of “something herbed” between them. Interestingly, a circle had been cut from the middle of the bread/salmon square and, in that opening was a tall cylindrical (small) glass with a green/vegetable froth – almost like a vegetable or herbed whipped cream. Coarsely ground walnuts & snipped chives were sprinkled around the plate along with a dollop of caviar on the side. A bread stick was in the cylindrical glass.
-Fillet du Cabillaud on a bed of cepes & pastry with cepe cream sauce, served with a fricassee of girroles, asparagus tips, and a “cylinder” or ratatouille.
-A “verre au chocolate” dessert. A glass tumbler, layered with coffee mousse, chocolate, topped with coffee whipped cream.
We were both dazzled by this restaurant, not only for the wonderful food, and value (2 menus, 2 kirs, 2 half-bottles of wine, ½ badoit, for 82E), but also by the presentations and the ambience.
We dined here again in ’09.
Le Bistro de l’Octroi in Sarlat 05 53 30 83 40
June ‘09
This restaurant sits on a ‘point’ between 2 streets in Sarlat, not in the heart of the historic district, but somewhat outside that area, but still within the city. Though we would have ordinarily felt hesitant to sit outside under those circumstances, the terrace did look appealing while, the inside looked less so on a warm evening. It turned out that the terrace was very pleasant, not particularly noisy and I had a dreamy view of the late day sun bathing the old buildings across the way with golden light. The servers were a bit understaffed, so service was a bit slow, but the ambiance of the evening offset what might have been a too-slow meal.
As we had eaten many cheese and dessert courses over the past days, we both opted for the a la carte menu for our choices.
I had:
- The tartine of cabecous (goat cheese) with salad
- Poele (sautéed) scallops (noix de St. Jacques) with cepe sauce and a small square cepe frittata accompanied by white lentils
Stu had:
- Salad of ris d’agneau
- Scallops with sautéed foie gras and summer truffles and salad
- Lotte au saffron with a cepe frittato and while lentils
Other very good restaurants
Pres Gaillardou east of Roque Gageac on the Route to Vitrac 05 53 59 67 89
Sept ‘05
We started with an amuse bouche of Salmon Crème brulee topped with pistachio & tumeric bread crumbs.
Stu had the menu a 46E (toujours le gourmet/gourmand)
-Due of foie gras – mi cuit and poele, layered- starting with celery root, topped with toasted brioche, & then the foie gras, with raison & fig sauce
-Scallops with sun-dried tomatoes & linguini with pesto & fresh tomatoes, served on a large white shell shaped dish with shell-type ribbings.
-Lamb shank on a bed of buttered mashed potatoes with morilles & a reduction sauce
-grilled local cheese wrapped in phyllo with almonds & a dressed salad
-Caflouti
I had the menu a 28E
-carpachio of magret de canard with foie gras oil with pistachios & walnuts & salad greens – absolutely heavenly & a meal in itself
-Sandre & moules poached in saffron cream with zucchini polenta
-same cheese as Stu
-Souffle glace with honey & lemon & peach sauce
Le Moulin de l’Abbaye in Brantome 05 53 05 80 52
Sept ’05
We had reserved at the 1-star Le Moulin de l’Abbaye – and inn/restaurant in an absolutely gorgeous setting along the river, with rolling lawns & flowers out to the water’s edge.
We both had the menu a 75E (clearly a 1 star spot!)
We started out (the pre-amuse bouche) with a plate of goodies: melon & raspberries speared on toothpicks, cherry tomatoes on round breads with a small dash of pesto between them, bread rounds layered with thick country ham/bacon topped with a dollop of pesto & melted cheese, and 2 pastry “horns” filled with Brandade.. The horns were spiked into small white soup bowl & secured in place with dried lentils.
The Amuse Bouche course followed:
-a green vegetable emulsion in a glass with a straw. It was served on a frosty rectangular plate with marinated red pepper strips, artichoke heart and some sort of “terrine/meat” cube.
My Menu:
-Marinated Sturgeon in a lemon/dill en gelee-type “sauce”, served in a martini glass topped with caviar and several small dollops of salted whipped cream, accompanied by buckwheat blinis.
-Bar (fish) fillet with langoustines on a bed of spinach with a fricasee of girolles. The fish was served with a miso type sweet ingredient.
-Cheese chariot – they had our favorite – Epoisse from Burgundy
-Raspberry and hibiscus compote with layers of meringue-like puff pastry, red berry coulis and a rich vanilla ice cream
Stu’s menu:
-a cold terrine of sweetbreads & leeks, wrapped in proscuitto with vinaigrette and chestnut dice
-Whole roasted pigeon with foie gras & toast and summer savory & a ragout of artichoke heart & green beans, served in a reduction sauce.
-Slow-poached peach served with honey & thyme with shortbread & almond ice cream.
We also had a “pre” and “post” dessert courses
Pre – a 3 layered warm dessert served in a glass. Bottom layer was barley sweetened rice cooked in milk, middle layer was warm caramel, and top layer was a pear compote.
Post – 2 small cold crème brulees, 2 small profiteroles and raspberry pastry tarts.
La Treille in Vitrac 05 53 28 33 19
This is a small, low key family owned hotel/restaurant in a nice setting. We ate in a glass-enclosed dining room that could be opened to the outdoors in warmer weather. I had the menu a 138FF. We both had an amuse bouche of smoked magret de canard with melon. I started with the marinated salmon (diced with olive oil, onions, cucumber, & tomato), followed by fillets de rougets (red mullet fish) served with tapenade. This dish was simply awesome !! I then had another amuse bouche. This was, I believe, intended to somewhat equalize the number of courses between Stu & me (the server said I would be waiting between courses because of Stu’s selection & all I could say was “c’est normale”). I choose what seemed to be the lightest dessert: 2 balls of sorbet (I asked for only one – cassis), & even that was way beyond simple – it was served with a splash of some sort of liqueur & topped with a light cookie/gallette. Stu had the menu a 235FF. He too had a special amuse bouche of seared foie gras, followed with a crustacean soup – creamy with chunks of seafood plus several langoustines at the bottom of the bowl. Then Stu had a “tart” with pastry, caramelized turnips and seared foie gras. Then !! Stu had 3 pieces of white fish sautéed and served on a bed of cepes, fava beans, & accompanied by a “signature” garnish of small tubes of cooked pasta, stuffed with cheese & then sautéed. This was followed by a “breather” course of sorbet mirabelle – that is, plum sorbet with prune liqueur. Then came a pastry packet of pigeon breasts (squab) with candied nuts and a perigord sauce. The legs of the squab were roasted & served outside the packet. With a paltry !! number of courses, the dessert was preceded by a “small dessert” – a crème brulee served warm. The “real” dessert was a rich chocolate gateau served with coffee ice cream. Incredibly, Stu’s meal (excluding the amuse bouche for the table) was 8 courses !!! Even more remarkabely was the fact that this meal for the two of us, with 2 aperitifs, 2 half-bottles of wine, and a bottle of mineral water was a total of 583FF including service/tip and taxes. With the current exchange, this was $80. We both agreed that this may be one of the best meals we have had in France & from a “value” point of view, it may be the best. We talked about how wonderful it was all the way back to the Gite.
We ate at La Treille twice.
Sept ’03
Stu had the menu a 34E, and I had the menu a 24E. Stu also added to his menu, a pigeon dish (a la carte) which was one he remembered from our prior trip. We started with an amuse bouche for the table: pastries with tomato & also pastry wrapped boudin sausages. Stu’s next course was roasted garlic soup, and when it arrived I was served a second amuse bouche of crème de langoustines soup, so that I would have something to nibble on while Stu had his added courses. Stu then proceeded with foie gras pot au feu with carrots & parsnips, followed by a fish course of sandre atop a red wine reduction sauce & served with carrots & zucchini cut into an elliptical shape. Next came his piece de resistance: rare pigeon breast in a philo pastry packet. Also inside the packet was a huge slice of foie gras. This not only added to the flavor, also the foie gras oil melted into the pigeon breasts. The legs and thighs were deep fried & served alongside the pastry packet. The packet was served on top of a reduced game sauce & summer truffles. Also on the plate was the restaurant’s signature pasta tubes & cheese, plus carrots & zucchini. For his cheese course, Stu had a cabacou round served on top of toast with honey drizzled over the top. For dessert, he had a “soft” (melting) chocolate cake with chocolate sorbet. I started with a salad aux senteurs du Perigord – not your typical green salad, but rathar a small serving of greens accompanied by typical flavors of the area: gesiers, smoked magret, candied walnuts, & terrine of foie gras. This was followed by rouget fillets – some topped with tapenade & some garnished with diced tomato, onoin, & red pepper. I had walnut ice cream drizzled with walnut liqeur for dessert. When the bill came, Stu expected to see the full price for the a la cart order of pigeon, but saw only a 7.50E “supplement”. When we questioned this, our server said the chef had adjusted the size of Stu’s fish course, resulting only in the supplement, rather than the full a la cart price.
Sept ’05
Things have changed. When we “scouted out” this restaurant, the menu selections had changed dramatically. The interesting & creative items we dined on before, were nowhere to be found on the menu. It seemed like they “dumbed down” the selections, so now it’s now primarily a foie gras, magret, and beef menu. I cook an excellent magret with cassis & peppercorn sauce at home and in Gites while in France, and we always pick up a “log” of mi-cuit foie gras at the market in St Cyprien. I also don’t order beef in France – I think ours in the US is tastier (see Belle Etoile description).
Hostellerie de la Bouriane, in Gourdon 05 65 41 16 37
The dining room was “classic French” – fairly simple in a room with a large stone hearth, heavy draperies, large wood serving cabinet, chairs with rush seats, & tables with pink tablecloths. Elegant, comfortable, and not at all stuffy. I had the menu a 160FF, starting with the poultry terrine, followed by a whole grilled bar. The fish was fabulous & a very pleasant treat on the 160FF menu. It was served on a bed of thick herbed butter sauce. A cheese tray was presented with a number of choices. As it was rolled over, the server carefully lifted a “towel” that was protecting the freshness of the cheeses. For dessert, I chose the walnut cake with crème anglaise. Since walnuts are a local specialty this seemed an appropriate choice tho’ this version seemed more pastry than a cake. In any case, it was excellent. Stu had the menu a 230FF. He started with an interesting aperitif (de la region) – Crème de noix and cassis with red Cahors wine. Quite good, tho’ it does sound strange! Next came two very large slices of mi-cuit foie gras (an unfathomable quantity at home), followed by a fillet of beef with Perigordine sauce (rich & dark). He too had the cheese course, followed by a fruit tart with vanilla ice cream.
Hotel Madeleine, in Sarlat 05 53 59 10 41
I had the meal a 168FF, starting with a garlic & onion soup which (thankfully) was subtly flavored with both & had a slightly thickened consistency. I then had salmon marinated with fennel & chives, followed by a chicken leg (jambonette de poulet) stuffed with aromatic ingredients & served with a zucchini flan & green peppercorn sauce. I chose cassis sorbet for dessert which, since the French can’t bear a plain dessert, was “dolled up” with small cookies. Stu had the menu a 250FF, starting with a lentil soup that was exquisite. This was followed by Lotte with caramelized orange sauce & orange segments, then (!) with “cou d’Oeil”(literary, “neck of goose”) in a almost black dark sauce called civet (which we later, unfortunately, found out to be a blood sauce!!!). He had tiramisu for dessert which was presented from an incredible chariot- dark polished wood frame with giant casters and an enormous gliding silver dome.
Restaurants we dined at, but would not recommend
Hotel du Chateau near Le Bugue
La Borderie in Taminies
L’Esterel in Marquay
Restaurants we “checked out”, but the menu did not seem interesting enough, or the décor was not “charming” enough
La Ferme de Maraval in Cenac
Auberge des Platanes in Roque Gageac
Plasaince in Vitrac
Ferme Auberge le Colombier in Vitrac
Quatra Saisons in Sarlat
Rosignol in Sarlat
Aub des Lys d’Or in Sarlat
Remparts in Beynac
La Petite Tonnelle in Beynac
Gabarrier in Ales les Mines – seems overpriced too
Stu Dudley
Mar 20th, 2011, 12:41 AM
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Stu:
Things change here over the years.
La Meyardie is closed for good
Bellerive in Le Buisson has changed hands, no longer a star - haven't been back for a long time.
La Plume d'Oie - the hostess died a year or two ago. Restaurant as far as I know, is still open.
Hotel Madeleine in Sarlat has changed hands. Again, haven't tried the new owners.
Ditto for La Metairie - not recommended by friends who have been.
Par contre:
Le Vieux Logis is still wonderful - their weekday 'tapas' lunch is not quite as much of a bargain as it was, now 42 Euros, but spendid food, wonderful setting. We were there Friday and continue to enjoy it. A highlight.
St Cyprien - Le Bistrot d'Epicure. Interesting inventive food and warm welcome.
Things change here over the years.
La Meyardie is closed for good
Bellerive in Le Buisson has changed hands, no longer a star - haven't been back for a long time.
La Plume d'Oie - the hostess died a year or two ago. Restaurant as far as I know, is still open.
Hotel Madeleine in Sarlat has changed hands. Again, haven't tried the new owners.
Ditto for La Metairie - not recommended by friends who have been.
Par contre:
Le Vieux Logis is still wonderful - their weekday 'tapas' lunch is not quite as much of a bargain as it was, now 42 Euros, but spendid food, wonderful setting. We were there Friday and continue to enjoy it. A highlight.
St Cyprien - Le Bistrot d'Epicure. Interesting inventive food and warm welcome.
Mar 20th, 2011, 07:33 AM
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Carlux
Thanks for the updates. I'll delete La Meyardie from my "itinerary", and "note" where the ownerships have changed for the others you mentioned.
Plume d'Oie is in the '11 Michelin Red Guide, so I think he is still hanging on. When we were there in June of '09, we were served by the hostess's husband - the chef. We asked him where she was, and he said that she had brain cancer & was in the hospital. She survived a previous bout of breast cancer, but didn't make it this time. He said that Belle Etoile was doing their bed linen laundry for his BB, and that others in the village were giving him help until things took their course. I'm glad he's still trying to make a go of it. They have operated the restaurant for more than 25 years.
Stu Dudley
Thanks for the updates. I'll delete La Meyardie from my "itinerary", and "note" where the ownerships have changed for the others you mentioned.
Plume d'Oie is in the '11 Michelin Red Guide, so I think he is still hanging on. When we were there in June of '09, we were served by the hostess's husband - the chef. We asked him where she was, and he said that she had brain cancer & was in the hospital. She survived a previous bout of breast cancer, but didn't make it this time. He said that Belle Etoile was doing their bed linen laundry for his BB, and that others in the village were giving him help until things took their course. I'm glad he's still trying to make a go of it. They have operated the restaurant for more than 25 years.
Stu Dudley
Mar 20th, 2011, 11:43 AM
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Yes, we knew Hiddy and Mark very well - celebrated our first Christmas in the Dordogne with them, as their guests at the restaurnt, and even helped clean the restaurant, do the laundry, etc. Always very good food.
Mar 20th, 2011, 07:35 PM
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EKS.....I am so pleased you responded.I so enjoyed your 2006 trip report,and took many notes.We will definitely pick up one of those green pamphlets and lunch at the fermes you described.Stu,we will tote your updated itinerary with us,and are so grateful for your generosity. And Carlux.....thank you for providing the latest information.
We will be staying in Domme at the Esplanade,for 4 nights,and wonder if you have any current reviews of the restaurant? Are there any other restaurant/food stops you recommend ??AND,on our last day,a Sunday,we will leave Rocamadour bound for a Toulouse/Monday,10 A.M. flight.We would appreciate itinerary suggestions for Sunday,as well as eating/sleeping suggestions.Thanks so much !!This is great.
We will be staying in Domme at the Esplanade,for 4 nights,and wonder if you have any current reviews of the restaurant? Are there any other restaurant/food stops you recommend ??AND,on our last day,a Sunday,we will leave Rocamadour bound for a Toulouse/Monday,10 A.M. flight.We would appreciate itinerary suggestions for Sunday,as well as eating/sleeping suggestions.Thanks so much !!This is great.
Mar 27th, 2011, 03:06 AM
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Mimar: I would book ahead even at lunch, unless you are going in very low season. I think the restaurant appreciates that. On another trip (I don't know if I mentioned this) to the same area, we made a very wide detour off our route to eat in a small place I had read about. I wanted to call ahead but my friend insisted it was not necessary. We finally arrived, near 2pm and in the pouring rain, and I don't need to tell you the end of the story! The owner specifically told us that if we had phoned ahead, she would have made room for us, but since we had not......too bad for us. My friend heard about that one for a long time!
Mar 27th, 2011, 03:14 AM
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Many fodorites collaborated on an updated restaurant list last summer, if you haven't found it. Scroll down for the edited list:
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...uested-svp.cfm
One restaurant I've heard is fantastic is in Domme: Cabanoix et Chatigne. I was persuaded by my in-laws not to try it because of the somewhat pricey lunch menu, and then later they went themselves and have not shut up about how wonderful it is!
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...uested-svp.cfm
One restaurant I've heard is fantastic is in Domme: Cabanoix et Chatigne. I was persuaded by my in-laws not to try it because of the somewhat pricey lunch menu, and then later they went themselves and have not shut up about how wonderful it is!
Mar 27th, 2011, 05:33 AM
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Haven't heard of Cabanoix et Chataigne, but it looks good.http://www.restaurantcabanoix.com/
Regarding Easter, most restaurants should be open for Sunday lunch. Many are not open Sunday evening because French people go out for lunch. We always find it good to reserve, and especially for this weekend, which will be busy, as lots of French people are likely to be on holiday.
(In fact we virtually always call to reserve now, unless we are just wandering through Sarlat and stops somewhere. Normally we have to drive somewhere, and why would you want to do that without knowing where you are going? Yesterday there was beautiful sunny weather, and we decided to take advantage of the sun and look for a restaurant where we could eat outside. First choice is closed Saturday lunch and Sunday night. Second is closed until 15 April. Third time lucky, in Domme.http://www.auberge-delarode.com/gb/auberge_delarode.htm)
Monday is another issue. Lots of places close Monday anyway, and this is a holiday Monday. On the other hand, this means there will be lots of customers, and so places may be open.
You really need to check the places you want to go, but there should still be a lot of choice. Easter is the beginning of the spring season, and places that close in the winter will have reopened.
Regarding Easter, most restaurants should be open for Sunday lunch. Many are not open Sunday evening because French people go out for lunch. We always find it good to reserve, and especially for this weekend, which will be busy, as lots of French people are likely to be on holiday.
(In fact we virtually always call to reserve now, unless we are just wandering through Sarlat and stops somewhere. Normally we have to drive somewhere, and why would you want to do that without knowing where you are going? Yesterday there was beautiful sunny weather, and we decided to take advantage of the sun and look for a restaurant where we could eat outside. First choice is closed Saturday lunch and Sunday night. Second is closed until 15 April. Third time lucky, in Domme.http://www.auberge-delarode.com/gb/auberge_delarode.htm)
Monday is another issue. Lots of places close Monday anyway, and this is a holiday Monday. On the other hand, this means there will be lots of customers, and so places may be open.
You really need to check the places you want to go, but there should still be a lot of choice. Easter is the beginning of the spring season, and places that close in the winter will have reopened.
Apr 1st, 2011, 06:59 PM
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Thank you for the reservation reminders.We will discipline ourselves to plan ahead.I was planning to make dinner reservations a Belle Etoile,but christycruz indicates it is closed until mid-July !! I will email them to be sure.It was at the top of our list.Will any other restaurants on the list be closedThank you Christy for making the list more current. I had not seen it before. We will carry it with us.If you made any other discoveries I hope you will share them.Carlux,I appreciate your latest restaurant discoveries,and will hi-light them on our list....and reserve a table.Do you think many restaurants will still be shuttered in mid-April ??? i would not have thought so.Important information !!!I love getting these up-dates ,and am excited to know about recent restaurant finds and other suggestions.
