Florence Sabbath Services
#2
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 4,204
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robbiegirl,
We tried to go to the Synagogue 3 times, but each time it was closed. I'm not sure if this was a security issue of what (this was prior to 9/11), but I'd love to hear about it if anyone has actually been in. Good luck.
We tried to go to the Synagogue 3 times, but each time it was closed. I'm not sure if this was a security issue of what (this was prior to 9/11), but I'd love to hear about it if anyone has actually been in. Good luck.
#3
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 14
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Message: I visited the Synagogue last Sunday. From a sign outside I got the impression that tourists were not encouraged to attend services, and I didn't try. I guess this depends on how well you can fit in. For tourists, they have lockers and a metal detector; you're not allowed to bring in backpacks, cameras or cell phones.
An English-speaking guide showed us around and opened the small museum. Jews were probably present in Florence since Roman times, and there are historical records from the 14th century. I asked about relations with the Medicis and he talked about the intellectual and artistic good times. In the mid-17th century, the Pope pressured Cosimo I to create a Jewish Ghetto. During Nazi occupation, the troops used this Synagogue as a garage and set off bombs inside the building. The Torah scrolls had been previously hidden in the countryside. Some Jews were disguised as monks and hidden in monastaries. Some formed a resistance. Many were deported in 1943.
The guide said today it is a "relaxed" Orthodox congregation. There's an upper gallery for women but most of the time they can use an area downstairs behind a small screen. If you attend services, I hope you post about it. Personally I would only try during the winter when there are fewer tourists, and I'd try to be unintrusive.
I wish I'd eaten at Ruth's vegetarian restaurant nearby, since it got good reviews, but it wasn't open for lunch.
An English-speaking guide showed us around and opened the small museum. Jews were probably present in Florence since Roman times, and there are historical records from the 14th century. I asked about relations with the Medicis and he talked about the intellectual and artistic good times. In the mid-17th century, the Pope pressured Cosimo I to create a Jewish Ghetto. During Nazi occupation, the troops used this Synagogue as a garage and set off bombs inside the building. The Torah scrolls had been previously hidden in the countryside. Some Jews were disguised as monks and hidden in monastaries. Some formed a resistance. Many were deported in 1943.
The guide said today it is a "relaxed" Orthodox congregation. There's an upper gallery for women but most of the time they can use an area downstairs behind a small screen. If you attend services, I hope you post about it. Personally I would only try during the winter when there are fewer tourists, and I'd try to be unintrusive.
I wish I'd eaten at Ruth's vegetarian restaurant nearby, since it got good reviews, but it wasn't open for lunch.
#4
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
As you know, there are many churches in Florence. I even saw a Methodist Church somewhere.
Anyway, I wandered into Santa Maria del Fiori after reading on the sign outside that it was an early 12th century church that originally was outside the city walls. (I hope this is correct; I don't have notes on this.) This church seemed less like a museum than some of the others described in my guidebook.
It was very pleasantly smaller and a bit simpler than the gothic churches. A couple of people were sitting down, so I sat down and contemplated the frescos.
After a few minutes the man started bustling about and I asked him if they were about to have mass. He said yes and invited me to stay. He told me he was from Belgium, I think. I guess it was noon time. Then he scurried up the aisle and behind the altar and rang the bell.
A couple more folks showed up and the woman in front led a litany. Even though I was brought up Episcopalian, I recognized the response which was repeated many times: "Ave Maria, Madre de Dios, priete (sp?)..." Then the man rang the bell again and lit the candles. A few more people came, including a woman with a baby who seemed to be tourists like me. There were maybe 10 people in the congregation, and the two behind me were chatting. The priest came out and the mass began. I could almost figure out what the readings were, but not really. Even though I had no idea what he was saying, I knew I liked the priest and the sermon. It was short and I could tell by the way he looked at us and the tone of his voice that it was practical, focused and caring. I recognized parts of the service and the somewhat familiar rhythms gave meaning to the deliberate liturgical Italian. What a wonderful way to experience that church.
Anyway, that's my other story.
Anyway, I wandered into Santa Maria del Fiori after reading on the sign outside that it was an early 12th century church that originally was outside the city walls. (I hope this is correct; I don't have notes on this.) This church seemed less like a museum than some of the others described in my guidebook.
It was very pleasantly smaller and a bit simpler than the gothic churches. A couple of people were sitting down, so I sat down and contemplated the frescos.
After a few minutes the man started bustling about and I asked him if they were about to have mass. He said yes and invited me to stay. He told me he was from Belgium, I think. I guess it was noon time. Then he scurried up the aisle and behind the altar and rang the bell.
A couple more folks showed up and the woman in front led a litany. Even though I was brought up Episcopalian, I recognized the response which was repeated many times: "Ave Maria, Madre de Dios, priete (sp?)..." Then the man rang the bell again and lit the candles. A few more people came, including a woman with a baby who seemed to be tourists like me. There were maybe 10 people in the congregation, and the two behind me were chatting. The priest came out and the mass began. I could almost figure out what the readings were, but not really. Even though I had no idea what he was saying, I knew I liked the priest and the sermon. It was short and I could tell by the way he looked at us and the tone of his voice that it was practical, focused and caring. I recognized parts of the service and the somewhat familiar rhythms gave meaning to the deliberate liturgical Italian. What a wonderful way to experience that church.
Anyway, that's my other story.
#6
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 433
Likes: 0
Since I speak Hebrew, and went to Orthodox schools, I will try to fit in. I imagine though the congregation is quite small and one would recognize that I didnt belong. I will see if my Rabbi can have any connection for me and perhaps be able to get me in.
Thanks for the post. I would love to experience a Shabbat service in Florence.
Thanks for the post. I would love to experience a Shabbat service in Florence.
#7
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 469
Likes: 0
If you plan to visit the Synagogue, you need to verify the hours that they are open for visitors. The address is Via Farini 4. Telephone: 055-245252. When we visited in September, Ruth's was open for lunch on Sunday. It might be open on other days for lunch but I'm not sure. It is right next to the Synagogue. We very much enjoyed the excellent vegetarian lasagna.
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#10
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 14
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I'm sure you'll be welcomed if you go there to pray. I don't remember exactly what the sign said, but I felt that they had concerns about security and propriety. So many of the larger churches have hordes of tourists passing through at all hours and taking photographs that if you want to control visitors you have to set expectations.
Good idea for Suntraveler to give the address and phone number. This prompted me to search and I found this URL, the contents of which look just like the brochure I got at the gift shop:
http://www.fol.it/sinagoga/inglese.htm
Also see here and go to "useful information in english" for email, Rabbi's name and hours: http://www.fol.it/sinagoga/inglese.htm .
Good idea for Suntraveler to give the address and phone number. This prompted me to search and I found this URL, the contents of which look just like the brochure I got at the gift shop:
http://www.fol.it/sinagoga/inglese.htm
Also see here and go to "useful information in english" for email, Rabbi's name and hours: http://www.fol.it/sinagoga/inglese.htm .
#11
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Sorry, bad copy and paste. Go here
http://www.fol.it/sinagoga/
and then to useful information in English which takes you here
http://www.fol.it/sinagoga/#INFOENG
http://www.fol.it/sinagoga/
and then to useful information in English which takes you here
http://www.fol.it/sinagoga/#INFOENG
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