In an earlier post, I got some great advice about our 2nd italy trip- into Rome, Sorrento, Orvieto, Lucca and out of Milan. Suggestions were great, but I kept coming back to the fact that we didn't have enough time to do many things we wanted in the south, while we were searching for things in the north- you know when a trip just doesn't feel right?

So Jan 4, I called United to find out how much it would cost to rebook our non-refundable tickets to arrive and depart Rome. I was informed that the non-stop Air One code share out of Milan had been cancelled, and United could only offer a one-stop through Frankfurt at the same price. I asked if they would re-book with a Rome departure (non-stop), and offered to pay the difference in price if they waived the change fee; in their infinite wisdom, United opted to refund the original $3500 ticket cost, rather than take an additional $600 from me and keep my business- and we wonder why the airline industry is in trouble???

The upshot- I was able to rebook on USAir, same dates in and out of Rome, for about $600 less than original tickets, and our itinerary is full of things we really want to do. But I do still need some help, and experienced advice, esp. re: Naples.

So-
4/3 arrive Rome, train to Orvieto
4/3-4/6 Orvieto- B&B Ripa di Medici (onsite covered parking space available)
Rent car- half day trip to Civita di Bagnoregio, maybe drive to Siena if we are so inclined.
4/6 - Drive to Sorrento-Drop car.
4/6-4/9 Sorrento Flats- day trips to Pompeii, Capri, Amalfi Coast. May stop at Pompeii on trip from Orvieto. Considering hiring a driver to make most of time.
4/9-4/11 Naples-have 3 places – need to pick one fast.
4/11 Rome- Albergo Senato (Splurge!)
4/12 RomeCabs to Airport, back to reality.

Questions:
Driving:
Anyone know the drive time from Orvieto to Pompeii and to Sorrento? Is there a “rush hour” around the Naples/Sorrento area? If we stop in Pompeii on the way in, we will not hire a driver for Amalfi Coast- just take bus; but only if major traffic is not a problem on the drive to Sorrento.

Circumvesuviana:
I really wasn’t worried about this- until I read a trip report that freaked me out-about the crowds and being pick-pocketed. We were not planning to rent a car till I read that report, because everything has good train/bus connections, and we genuinely like going local. But now I’m not sure I want to be dragging (carryon) luggage and 2 kids on this train. Can we easily and safely manage if everyone carries their own bag?


Naples:
Really looking forward to time here- but I can’t seem to settle on lodging. Have availability confirmations from:

B&B DonnaRegina Via Luigi Settembrini- Everyone’s favorite, 2 sleeping areas, but not sure about neighborhood.

Hotel Piazza Bellini, Via S.M. di Costantinopoli, looks fine, but double room with 2 extra beds is tight fit, least expensive.

Albergo Palazzo Decumani, Piazzetta Giustino- looks like nicer area, most expensive- have to reserve 2 rooms, not sure if I want kids in separate room in Naples.

Anyone familiar with the areas around these- They all get good reviews, and it looks like they are all in centro storico area. I understand some of these areas can be seedy/rundown, which is not a problem. I just don’t want to be anywhere that is truly unsafe, as we do walk around at night. Donna Regina is my favorite, any thoughts?

Thanks in advance!

We stayed at the DonnaRegina a few years ago with our then 13 y/o daughter and found it really unique, interesting and generally positive experience (the bathroom/shower was probably the biggest negative). It definitely is not in an area frequented by a lot of tourists (Piazza Bellini will have more activity), but we didn't feel unsafe. I'm on a conference call and can't post a lot now, but you might find that part of our trip report helpful:

http://www.onelittleworld.com/campania_10.html

ms_go, Thanks- actually, your trip report was the one that clued me in to Donna Regina in the first place! My daughters are 14 and 10, and it was great to hear some experiences of a young woman that age. Thanks for the information- just have to decide if we want to be that far away, given that we really have only 1 full day.

I traveled alone (with lugggage) on the Circumvesuviana in September. Depending on time of year, the train will have plenty of people, but you need to keep your eye on stuff as you would on any subway/commuter train and just avoid all the touts in the Naples train station. The biggest problem is a flight of stairs you have to use to change trains. If your children can't manage the stairs, one of you will have to help.

Hi Dcl - Why not base for your entire stay in Sorrento?

It hardly seems worth the hassle to change hotel for 2 nights in Naples - you can easily day-trip there from Sorrento.

JMO ...

Steve

kybourbon- Is that flight of steps only an issue for the local commuter train, or do you have to climb to catch the regular national trains? Last trip, my husband cut his leg badly on a train step while carrying one of the kids' bags, so the rule since then has been everyone carries their own. Not an issue for the older daughter, but maybe for the 10 year old if steep steps.

Steve- I went back and fourth about just that idea, but in the end, there is something you get from seeing a city at night, especially in Italy, that you don't get from day trips. Also, our girls are 10 and 14, and getting moving early is a struggle on a good day, and for 2 days of trips, we'll probably lose less time by moving just once. But I appreciate the thought.

All the regular national trains have about three steps, often very steep and narrow. Often it's easiest for one person to get on the train so the one on the platform can pass the bags up the steps.

However, I believe kybourbon was referring to the steps at the Naples station you must descend to reach the Circumvesuviana platform--a different part of the station from the other trains.

I was referring to the flight of stairs in the Naples train station. The trains from Rome arrive upstairs and the Circumvesuviana is downstairs. You encounter a flight of stairs (although much remodeling was going on when I was there in September so perhaps they will do something about this) and after you get down the stairs you get to the escalator. The Circumvesuviana train itself does not have steps to maneuver. When you arrive Sorrento train station and are exiting the train, go to your left (instead of following the crowd) as there is a ramp to enter the train station so you can roll your luggage (if your luggage doesn't have wheels then ignore this). Then follow the crowds to the exit, but instead of following them down the stairs go left again (tracks to your back - you want to go to the far left side) and you will find a small elevator. If you need to buy a phone card to call your hotel for pick-up, buy it upstairs in the little tobacco/coffee shop.

If you are using the Leonardo Express train the very first car by the conducter has no steps. All the other cars require you to maneuver narrow steps. If you are departing Rome Termini to FCO and want to avoid steps on the train, stay at the head of the tracks. FYI - The ticket machine beside the Leonardo track at Termini is cash only. If you want to use credit cards, you must use the machines towards the front of Termini.

As for steps on most trains (when will Europe ever get with handicap access?), have one person jump on (unless you only have a minute or two to board) and see if you are at the right end of the car. One end of the cars on ES trains will have luggage racks while the other end usually doesn't. It's difficult to drag your luggage down the aisles if you intend to store it.

There aren't any ES trains for Rome/Orvieto so you will either use R (no reserved seats available) or IC trains. When you arrive Orvieto, you must buy ticket(s) for the funicular and bus. Be sure to buy the combo which covers both, not just the funicular(I think funicular only is about .70€ and the combo is .90€0. When you get off the funicular there will be two bus lines to choose from (A & B? - green or orange? - I don't remember). Check with your hotel and they will tell you which one to use. Tell the driver your hotel and you will be dropped very close.

You don't need to rent a car for Civita Bagno Reggio unless you want to. You can take a bus from in front of the Orvieto train station (be sure to buy your return ticket at the same time). If you decide to use the bus, post back and I will give you further directions/info.

There are two bus options between Sorrento and Rome that lets you avoid Naples train station. One is the Marozzi and I can't remember the other one at the moment, but it had more options. I'll try to find the name if you are interested. With the bus your luggage is stored underneath so you don't have to worry about it and the travel time is about 3 - 3 1/2 hours. The bus drops at the Tiburtina train station in Rome (it's also on the metro line and is a major bus hub) and you can metro from there or taxi. Cost is about 17€ one way for an adult.
http://www.marozzivt.it/

I would stay in Sorrento the entire time instead of switching to Naples. You can take the Circumvesuviana for a daytrip to Naples or take a ferry/hydrofoil. I would also visit Pompeii from Sorrento. It's about a 30 minute ride on the Circumvesuviana from Sorrento and the entrance is right across from the Pompeii Scavi train stop.

kybourbon- Wow- thank you for all the information! I was referring to the steps in the Naples station, so it looks like just one big staircase- the DD's will just have to pack light! Especially appreciate the bus info from Rome to Sorrento. I checked the Marrozi site; will have to spend some more time this weekend with the translation, but this might be a good option for us. We may still rent a car, though, just to have the flexibility while we are in Orvieto and on the way to Sorrento. I found a great rate with AutoEurope, and even with gas and parking, it will be cheaper to rent than take trains and busses. Still, all this is great for the trip to Orvieto, and from Sorrento to Naples to Rome if thats how it all pans out. Thanks again.

I did book the Hotel Piazza Bellini, it's most centrally located with 2 nearby metro stops. They also have a 48 hr cancellation policy, so if we get to Sorrento and decide to just stay put, I can cancel easily. Still think it is better to move (for us)- getting everyone up, moving and fed before 10 is a stretch, and adding a commute to that really puts a dent in how much we will be able to do and still get back at a reasonable time. But, we are flexible, and I think at this time of year in Sorrento, we will probably have the flexibility to change plans at the last minute if that seems best.