Five.nights in the Spanish Basque Country: Where would you eat?
Dec 31st, 2017, 07:47 AM
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Five.nights in the Spanish Basque Country: Where would you eat?
We’ll be in the Spanish Basque Country in early September for five nights. If budget is not an issue, where should we eat? Having once gone to five Michelin three stars in one week, I don’t want to repeat that exercise in excess. Much prefer a combination of levels to get a sense of what really special offerings are available. Have car, will drive. Our goal includes food + ambiance + service + welcome. Fancy or simple, either way.
All suggestions greatly appreciated.
All suggestions greatly appreciated.
Dec 31st, 2017, 08:28 AM
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WHERE in Spanish Basque Country? We were in San Sebastián, Bilbao, and other neighboring places last September and don't think we were ever disappointed in the food, anywhere. If you want high-end go to Getaria.
Dec 31st, 2017, 09:04 AM
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If it's an actual restaurant you want to eat in, I can't be of much help. In the 8+ days we were in the area, we practically lived on pintxos, where the concept of "service" is pretty much nonexistent - you walk in, look at the menu and peruse the incredibly varied selection on the bar, order, and your food is either brought to you or you carry it to your table. That is how we ate every day except for one day where we had a nice meal in the courtyard of the Guggenheim in Blibao.
The super-foodie friends we traveled with, however, said the El Elkano in Getaria was close to the best restaurant they had every eaten at, and they mde reservations months in advance.
The super-foodie friends we traveled with, however, said the El Elkano in Getaria was close to the best restaurant they had every eaten at, and they mde reservations months in advance.
Dec 31st, 2017, 12:36 PM
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The number one restaurant in Getaria is ELKANO (www.restauranteelkano.com). Closer to the waterfront is Kaia-Kaipe and Iríbar.
Dec 31st, 2017, 12:51 PM
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I didn't dine in Getaria, but I would definitely recommend some restaurants nearby, including
Bilbao: La Vina del Ensanche
San Sebastian: Casa Urola
San Sebastian: La Muralla
Pasajes de San Juan: Txulotxo
Also in Bilbao, I thought there were pros and cons to Etxanobe.
If interested, see my review on TA (under KJA3).
Bilbao: La Vina del Ensanche
San Sebastian: Casa Urola
San Sebastian: La Muralla
Pasajes de San Juan: Txulotxo
Also in Bilbao, I thought there were pros and cons to Etxanobe.
If interested, see my review on TA (under KJA3).
Dec 31st, 2017, 01:19 PM
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We’re happy to wander, even if it means a drive of an hour or so. That would cover past Bilbao in the west and San Sebastian in the east. Lunch may well be pintxos, but great dining experiences iare what we’re looking for in the evening.
Jan 1st, 2018, 10:27 AM
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Pintxos is always a pre-lunch thing for locals, never a meal...but of course, do as you want! And they are all over the Basque Country, not only in San Sebastian.
My favorites (as a local):
- BILBAO, Mina, Los Fueros, Porrue, Asador Getaria, BlueIzar (wonderful!, Mugarra, Zárate, Zapirain... to name just a few
- SAN SEBASTIAN, Kokotxa, Amelia, Urola, Rekondo, Mirador de Ulía
- GETARIA, my favorite, no doubt, is Kaia Kaipe, with great views too.
And then...so many...near Gernika is Baserri Maitea (lovely 17th century farmhouse restaurant), Portuondo (great fish), Azurmendi (three Michelin star), Patxiku Enea in Lezo near San Sebastian, Bedua in Zumaia (beautiful place), Kamiñoko...this is foodies paradise and there are so many great places!!!
My favorites (as a local):
- BILBAO, Mina, Los Fueros, Porrue, Asador Getaria, BlueIzar (wonderful!, Mugarra, Zárate, Zapirain... to name just a few
- SAN SEBASTIAN, Kokotxa, Amelia, Urola, Rekondo, Mirador de Ulía
- GETARIA, my favorite, no doubt, is Kaia Kaipe, with great views too.
And then...so many...near Gernika is Baserri Maitea (lovely 17th century farmhouse restaurant), Portuondo (great fish), Azurmendi (three Michelin star), Patxiku Enea in Lezo near San Sebastian, Bedua in Zumaia (beautiful place), Kamiñoko...this is foodies paradise and there are so many great places!!!
Jan 1st, 2018, 02:39 PM
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Many thanks for all suggestions. We begin our planning by identifying those requiring advance reservations and then fill in based on ideas we’ve received. For the former, it looks like Arzak, Asador Etzebarri, and Martin Berasetegui on Days One, Three, and Five. We go with no preconception, but hope to be pleasantly surprised. More likely and more pleasing would be to visit and enjoy those that have not yet garnered galactic acclaim.
Jan 2nd, 2018, 11:25 AM
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If I may...Arzak, Berasategui and Etxebarri are quite obvious choices and all of them Michelin starred restaurants (I don´t mean a bad choice, far from it!). As Robert says, quite different one from the other, but if you want to experience "real" places, you may want to try other, less starred, places too.
Jan 3rd, 2018, 01:39 PM
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We will certainly try "other, less starred" places and would be quite pleased to discover the gems among them. We've done stars and unstarred across the continent and always gain great pleasure from those that are less renowned. Nevertheless, we have enough time to sample and will gladly encore as appropriate.
Mar 17th, 2019, 05:49 AM
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Extraordinary dining
We ate at Arzak, Azurmendi, and Martin Berasategui. Here’s our take:
Arzak: Classic three star and most pleasant. We had an enjoyable chat with Elena. The tables were fairly close to one another and no one facet of our visit stood out.
Azurmendi: A unique experience in a roomy, relaxed setting that included a marked measure of fun. Not to be missed if you’re anywhere in the area.
Martin Berasategui: Exceptional, even among Michelin three stars. The room and service are most elegant. And the cuisine: splendid! The only hitch was finding our way there, which required driving down a one-way street (the wrong way) when we got lost a block away.
In order of preference: Martin Berasategui, Azurmendi, Arzak.
Arzak: Classic three star and most pleasant. We had an enjoyable chat with Elena. The tables were fairly close to one another and no one facet of our visit stood out.
Azurmendi: A unique experience in a roomy, relaxed setting that included a marked measure of fun. Not to be missed if you’re anywhere in the area.
Martin Berasategui: Exceptional, even among Michelin three stars. The room and service are most elegant. And the cuisine: splendid! The only hitch was finding our way there, which required driving down a one-way street (the wrong way) when we got lost a block away.
In order of preference: Martin Berasategui, Azurmendi, Arzak.
Mar 17th, 2019, 05:55 AM
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Etzebarri: why we didn’t go
Etzebarri is one of those restaurants where the reservations window opens and then closes a few seconds later when all the places have been taken for any time in the near future. My guess is that you have to keep trying to get a table and then make your travel plans around whatever reservation time/day you have been fortunate to get.
