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First Timers to Portugal... Questions galore!

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First Timers to Portugal... Questions galore!

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Old Apr 16th, 2022, 11:57 AM
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First Timers to Portugal... Questions galore!

Maybe or maybe not!

We are working on an itinerary that I am sure I'll be asking for critique on but for now a general question about where to stay in Lisbon upon arrival. We like walking through neighborhoods (husband is an urban planner/architect), seeing all the usual sites, good food etc. We are also getting close to 60 so long gone are the 12 hour hiking around all day travels of our youth but we are still in good shape and can go all day, just not as much as when we were 20.

We'll be in Lisbon 5 nights upon arrival with one overnight for Sintra (leaving our things and taking an overnight bag with us). We're flying out of Lisbon and will have 2 nights upon return from Porto.

So the question is, for the start of our trip what neighborhood is the best to consider for accommodations? Is Chiado a good, central area for our base?
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Old Apr 16th, 2022, 12:11 PM
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Chiado makes a good base, but make sure that you're on a quiet, side street, not directly on the Praça Luis Camões. The Praça there has become extremely busy and with lots of taxi, tram and tuk-tuk traffic. We liked very much the new and beautiful Marriott-branded "The Ivens" (if you have points to use) that sits on the corner of Rua Ivens and Rua Capelo, a very pleasant, quiet and convenient area. Or there are some nice apartments in Chiado, like the one poster russ_in_la rented in his wonderful report here:
3 Weeks in Portugal: A photographic report of a trip in progress

Because many Lisbon buildings still don't have elevators, if you need an apartment, make sure the building is fitted with an elevator to avoid a 3-4 storey walk up.

Another lovely area is the Avenida da Liberdade, inspired by the Champs Elysées, with beautiful fin de siécle architecture. The dividing line between the busy and bustling Baixa area with its buskers, street vendors, fast food places, heavy traffic and the more tranquil and pleasant Liberdade neighborhood begins north of the Hard Rock Café. There are many nice hotels on the Avenida but not an abundance of apartments. When not renting an apartment, we stay in a hotel mid-way up the Avenida, before reaching the Marqués de Pombal square and Eduardo VII park.
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Old Apr 16th, 2022, 01:03 PM
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We loved the Hotel Avenida Palace in Lisbon. Great location, fabulous service, beautiful historic hotel, best breakfast buffet anywhere, even a free lending library with travel books. . .. Good price point, also.

Contact them directly for best prices, or if you need special accommodations. We arrived from the States at 10:00am, expecting to have to wait until 3pm to check in. Nope-- they said we have your room ready for you now, because I had informed them of our flight arrival time. We were so happy to be shown to our room, instead of having to kill that much time when we were exhausted.

https://www.hotelavenidapalace.pt

In general, we loved Portugal, even though we did not go further from Lisbon than Sintra, Cascais and Estoril. We'd love to return and see Porto and the Algarve.
Great food, too. We found the people to be welcoming and gracious. Plus, they speak English.

Last edited by MoBro; Apr 16th, 2022 at 01:08 PM.
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Old Apr 17th, 2022, 07:20 AM
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What are questions galore? Cannot find translation.
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Old Apr 17th, 2022, 07:36 AM
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Helena,
questions galore=many, many questions
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Old Apr 17th, 2022, 08:11 AM
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Minooka1145,
The hotel that we frequently use is the Hotel Britânia, a member of the small Heritage group. It's an Art Deco gem, a classified monument, so the hotel must maintain all its original Art Deco elements. So, it's not for fans of contemporary architecture. One must appreciate its Art Deco design.
(For sleek, hip, contemporary: the Memmo Príncipe Real, Memmo Alfama)
(For new, lavish & with a colonial, explorers' theme: The Ivens)
(For new & palatial with views in Chiado: Palácio Ludovice)

We enjoy the small Britânia for many reasons:
We receive an unbeatable sr. rate including a copious buffet breakfast during low season (unlimited Nespresso!), the staff is wonderful and kind, they always either have our room ready or treat us to coffee and pastéis de nata in the library while waiting for our room (never a long wait), there's a complimentary afternoon tea spread from 5-7, a decanter of port in every room (that the maid refills), guests have free entrance for 4 museums including the stunning Gulbenkian, there's an evening sandwich menu in the English bar for those who don't want to dine out (also room service we never use), two cute, inexpensive and authentic eateries (Taberna Anti-Dantis, A Cozinha Sr Lisboa ) sit a short walk away, and it's on a very quiet street that runs parallel to the elegant Avenida da Liberdade.

There is a huge amount of hotel construction going on right now in Lisbon, so something for everyone's taste and budget.
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Old Apr 18th, 2022, 12:39 PM
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Thank you Maribel! 1st time I saw this word, and (stupid) translators were not helping.

So, concerning where to stay: although I'm portuguese, I'm from Porto, so in Lisbon I'm a tourist! My opinion is never stay near the river. Even if you stay in a higher place, like Chiado, or Bairro Alto, it is still near Tejo. My favourite places are near Saldanha, or even Areeiro (or Quinta das Conchas, a beautiful park with parrots on the trees). Near Saldanha square, lot's of side streets, those lovely streets in Lisboa with trees and commerce, like restaurants, coffee-shops, nice hair-dressers, etc. In my opinion, it is better to stay where locals live, instead of where tourists go. And then you just use public transport, even if it is not metro or a bus, one can use uber or taxi, it's cheap. And it's not like very far away. One does not need to be in the center of things - that only leads to stress.
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Old Apr 18th, 2022, 01:26 PM
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How much do I love the Fodor's forums. Seriously, this is the best forums on all the internet!

I booked Le Consulat based on TA feedback and availability. The Ivens, Palacio Ludovice and Avenida Palace are lovely as well. The Ivens is completely booked for the first part of our trip but I'm going to check all of these for our last 2 nights in Portugal before flying home.

Sadly my husband is against staying in a VRBO or AirBnB, but Bed and Breakfasts themselves are acceptable so perhaps later in our trip.

Here's the rough outline of our itinerary I'm working with. We know there's lots of driving but since things aren't that far apart it's really more about exploring. I took a lot of tips from Russ in LA (if you are reading this Russ, thank you again!). The only downside I can see to this itinerary, that my husband hasn't caught on to yet, is that we don't be in any one place long enough to do our laundry, lol. We'll get it worked out but my husband gets obsessed with sending laundry out.

We don't have Algarve planned on this trip and don't feel a huge need to go. We also don't have Duoro Valley wine tasting scheduled since my husband doesn't drink and I am a horrible day drinker (but after 5.....!!).

Our arrival is 5/15 (Sunday). I have Sintra scheduled for after Lisbon but would it maybe make as much sense to put it on as our last stop before going back into Lisbon. So perhaps leaving Lisbon and heading east to Evora/Marvao etc maybe going to Coimbra and other places a bit more on the interior, then to Porto, Braga and then driving down the coast at the end of our trip, stopping in Obidos to see Alcobaba, Batalha, Tomar etc? Or am I just overthinking it all? If stop in Sintra at the start, we'll be there on a Wednesday and Thursday night; If we do it at the end with the current allocated time in each town, it would be Wednesday and Thursday.

Nights 1-4: Lisbon (4 nights) Leave late afternoon on 5th day to drive to Sintra, hoping to miss the day trippers but still have time to wander around Sintra
Nights 5-6 Sintra (2 nights) Early day in Sintra to stay a bit ahead of the crowds.
Nights 7-8 Evora (3 nights) See Monsarez, Estremoz, Marvao
Nights 9-10 Obidos (2 nights) See Alcobaca, Batalha, Tomar
Nights 11-12 Coimbra (2 nights) Conimbriga Ruins stop on the way
Nights 13-14 Braga and Guimaraes (2 nights) I know we could combine with Porto. I tend to prefer smaller towns to larger cities which is why I'm leaning towards spending 2 nights here before Porto.
Nights 15-17 Porto (3 Nights) Is this too much time in Porto? I see trip reports that people really enjoy Porto, more so than Lisbon. Is stopping in Aveiro to see the odd gondolas worth the stop. Back to Lisbon for last evening
Night 18 Lisbon



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Old Apr 18th, 2022, 01:44 PM
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About Le Consulat: I would check any TA and booking.com remarks about street noise, if there are any.
It sits directly on the now very, very busy, bustling Praça Luis de Camões, as does the newly renovated Hotel Bairro Alto.
I've been in it but never stayed there so I don't know about their sound proofing, which may be perfectly fine with double glazed windows to keep out the noise of the praça below.

My only other suggestion would be to stay in Tomar and visit Obidos rather than spend 2 nights in Obidos, but others may feel very differently.
I love Guimarães and will return in October and also to Braga.
3 nights for me in Porto wouldn't be at all too many. There's lots to explore within the center of the city and beyond... to the Crystal Palace gardens, the park and Pink Art Deco house of the Serralves Foundation in Boavista, beaches of Foz, Matosinhos for a seafood feast.
Just some thoughts.
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Old Apr 18th, 2022, 01:56 PM
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Minooka - 3 nights ion Porto is not at all too much!

Are you from NEPA?
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Old Apr 19th, 2022, 11:31 AM
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Maribel, thank you for your advice on the Consulat. There's a few reviews regarding noise, mainly from the bar on the 1st level, not from outside. I've already asked if we can have a 'quiet' room. If it becomes an issues, we'll move hotels but I think we should be ok. It's always a gamble!

Also, I decided earlier today that Tomar would make a better base for us so great minds and all! I'm going to reconfigure our travels a little bit anyway after looking at distances and things so hope to post an update.

Seamus, NEPA= Northeast PA? Surely not Nepal, lol. Yes, I'm originally from the Lehigh Valley. Do we have a connection?
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Old Apr 19th, 2022, 11:48 AM
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A "quiet room" should do the trick at Le Consulat.
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Old Apr 19th, 2022, 12:04 PM
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One does not need to be in the center of things - that only leads to stress.

I can vouch for that. We're currently in Lisbon and the crowds in the center have been panic inducing. I kid you not.
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Old Apr 19th, 2022, 12:25 PM
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What Mel has told you is why I can't recommend anymore any lodging in BAIXA, the flat center, from Rossio Square or its neighbor, Praça da Figueira, down south to the city's gateway, the Praça do Comércio, also known as Terreiro do Paço.

The Corpo Santo Hotel and the Alma Lusa Hotel sit in Baixa west of this rectangle, on relatively quiet squares, but still, it's hard to avoid the constant hustle and bustle anywhere in Baixa.

I still prefer a quiet side street in Chiado (there are some) or a hotel on or off the Avenida da Liberdade, above the Hard Rock and below Marqués de Pombal square, to its west or east. It makes for a much less stressful stay.

I stayed many years ago in Saldanha in August when we needed a pool (it was the Holiday Inn) but haven't returned lately. We used the metro there to get around in the days before uber.
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Old Apr 19th, 2022, 07:32 PM
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Minooka, I indeed hail from NEPA (not Nepal, LOL) and Minooka is the name of a neighborhood in South Scranton. I know there is also a Minooka, IL but whenever I hear the word I think of NEPA
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Old Apr 20th, 2022, 06:11 AM
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We also stayed at the Avenida Palace. Fabulous location and beautiful hotel.
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Old Apr 20th, 2022, 10:45 AM
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Seamus, LOL, Minooka was the name of one of my cats! I don't know where it originated from, just that my aunt knew someone who named all her cats that and it just fit!
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Old Apr 20th, 2022, 11:38 AM
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Thanks all for the feedback on the hotel location in Lisbon. I'll take some time and look for an alternative. I was hesitant to book on the/near Avenida Liberdade because I was afraid it would feel like any commercial area in the US or Europe. Plus heading out for dinner in the evening that would be more interesting than a business district restaurant but truth be told, we often resort to eating big lunches and skipping dinner or just having a light snack. But your points are all valid!

As for the rest of the trip, I went down a very dark rabbit hole, saw Alice and am now trying to temper my want to see and do it all with reality.

While I am playing with the itinerary, where does Monsanto stand with the groups list of places to see? It looks like an amazing stop but I'm trying to figure out how to make it work if we stop in Marvao for a night, see the Castelo Branco on our way to Tomar or Coimbra. It looks like Marvao-CB-Monsanto-Coimbra or Tomar is 4.5 hours of driving which just makes for a long day of driving.

I'm also considering adding a visit to the thermal spa in Lusa for a relaxing day as part of our trip. Anyone have any feedback on the spa there?


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Old Apr 20th, 2022, 12:09 PM
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The Avenida da Liberdade hotels are not all corporate. I don't see it as a characterless business district, actually. Yes, there's the Tivoli and Sofitel but also the Valverde (a Relais & Châteaux), Porto Bay Liberdade, Fontecruz Autograph Collection (a bit too dark for me), NH Collection, Heritage Lisboa Plaza and Heritage Liberdade, all boutique hotels.

The avenue was modeled on the Champs Elyseés but has no fast food joints, no street vendors/trinket sellers, no line of mediocre restaurants with buskers enticing you in. Yes, it's lined with luxury boutique shopping (and has a Ladurée). It reminds me a bit of Saint-Germain. It has a beautifully paved with swirls promenade in the center and lots of benches (now each is dedicated to a famous female fado singer) to sit and rest on one's walk up to the Eduardo VII Park.

For dinner, we sometimes head to Chiado (it's walkable) as most of our favorite restaurants are there, or if we don't want to walk and stay close by, we have petiscos to share at Rubro Avenida, Taberna anti-Dantas, A Cozinha Sr Lisboa or Cervejaria Liberdade.
There's also the Quiosque O Melhor Bolo de Chocolate do Mundo and the Banana Café Quiosque on the avenue for snacks, drinks and sandwiches,.

And Solar dos Presuntos, a highly regarded restaurant and locals' favorite, recently renovated, is just a couple of blocks off the avenue, along with Restaurante Bomjardim, home of the piri piri chicken that everyone loves.

Lisbon's original Grande Dame Hotel, the Avenida Palace, doesn't sit on the Avenida da Liberdade but is tucked away next to the Rossio rail station on Rossio Square. It's kind of an oasis in a very bustling area but with great service and piano music at night. I subscribe to their newsletter. It's a Fodor's favorite.

I haven't been to Monsanto. It's on my list but has never been on my route since it's off to the east, near the Spanish border.
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Old Apr 20th, 2022, 12:58 PM
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Waiting to see if anyone else chimes in on Monsanto.

My husband will like the hotel area you are recommending and I'll do some work on it but what I am finding with rooms in our budget seem to sit on the Avenue. It will just take more digging but for now we have the original room at the Consulat. For me, you lose me at Champs Elysees, lol. I don't see the charm in the wide boulevards and boutique areas. But honestly, the rest of our trip will have small towns to explore I can exchange the charm for the quiet. Right now the hotel in Lisbon is the least of my concerns since I need to get the rest of the trip planned out. It always works out but since my husband is busy with work he's being utterly useless in helping to plan or giving any feedback.

I am considering leaving some of the area that borders Spain for a western Spain trip. We've been to various parts of Spain numerous times but seems there's always more to explore or revisit.
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