Hello,
My family will be traveling to Denmark and Norway for three weeks in July. We'll be spending a little more than half the trip in Denmark (Copenhagen - Helsingor - Aero - Arhus). Then we'll take the ferry from Hirtshals to Kristiansand. (Do we need a reservation for this ferry? We won't have a car.) We'll spend a night in Kristiansand and then head toward Bergen. I'm figuring we'll take the train to Stavanger and then boat to Bergen. Does anyone know if I need a reservation for the boat trip? I'm still deciding between 2 or 3 nights in Bergen(any opinions?) and then do Norway in a Nutshell toward Oslo, where we'll stay four nights before going home. I have a somewhat silly question about the Nutshell route. It sounds as if most people do it going from Oslo to Bergen. Is there a reason that direction is preferred, other than travel logistics? We'd be going the opposite way.
Thanks for any advice you can give.

I can only help on the later part of your trip. For a start I think that 4 nights might seem a bit much for Oslo although it's a lovely town with plenty to see, rather downgraded in the guidebooks to my mind. Perhaps 3 nights would be enough and then you could use the other night somewhere on the nutshell.
Unless you have a definite thing for set routes, I advise you not to treat this area as 'the Nutshell Tour' but to look at the parts and see what you want to do. I found the idea of taking the car ferry and the Flåmsbahn in both directions was quite irresistable.
If you would like my notes and some URLs for stuff I have done with photos, please e-mail me - but I have yet to go south of the Oslo/Bergen railway. [email protected]

jeg: I can provide a little help. Spend at least a couple of days on Aero. Be sure to do some biking out into the countryside; neat little villages, beautiful farms, little, old village churches. You'll need a day to walk the village of Aeroskobing; really charming. Get out onto the side streets and see the quaint little pastel houses with beautiful plants all around.
Den Gamla By at Arhus is interesting and fun. It should take the better part of a day. We had breakfast, lunch and dinner at the cafes and restaraunts and stayed for evening entertainment.
The Arhus Cathedral dates from the 1400s. Huge and interesting. There are pedestrian-only streets in the town center which are fun. We enjoyed perusing the shops and we always go into the food markets when we travel to see how people live. There is a canal scene with waterside cafes and restaurants. We enjoyed eating here with live entertainment on a stage out on the water. We were there for the annual international jazz festival (every July) and it was great fun. I remember a particular evening when we were walking by the cathedral and it started to pour down rain. We dashed for a door way which was on the square where the large tent had been erected for the festival. So, there we were, great jazz eminating from the tent and as we looked around the square, every doorway had people tapping thier feet to the great music. Be sure to see the Radhus, city hall, which dates from 1941 and is very unusual. We stayed in a little hotel adjacent with a great balcony view of this building.
Without a car, you won't need a reservation for the ferry at Hirtshals. I don't know about the boat, but if Bjorn sees this thread, he probably can help you.
Bergen is fantatsic. You can "do" it in two days, but if you like an unhurried pace, stopping to read every sign and post as we do, take the three days. Hanging around the market at the marina is great fun.
We did both the Nutshell and then traveled (by car) to some of the fjords. I don't think it makes any difference which way you go on the Nutshell. I agree four days might be too much for Oslo unless you just want to kick back. Take three days and use the extra day for boat trips (from Bergen) into the fjords. Be sure to take a ferry out to Bygdey from the harbor (in Oslo). You'll see the Vikingskiphuset (museum, fantastic!), the Norsk Folkemueum (skansen) and the Fram or kon-tiki boat. Wandereing the penninsula is fun as well.
Don't know how young your children are, but their are a couple of ride fairs for kids, Tivoli in Arhus and VikingLandet at Oslo if appropriate.
This is a great part of the World. Have a great trip.

Thank you davidx and joegri for your advice. (Davidx, I'll e-mail you for notes.) Is there a particular town you'd recommend for one night somewhere along the nutshell tour? I'm open to reducing our time in Oslo to three nights. Any particular recommendation for a fiord trip while we're in Bergen? Thanks again!

It's "travel logistics", as you say,I think. It's the same trip, same views, just less people, so I imagine it would be better. Except I think it would be more fun going down on the Flamsbana (very steep!) than up, so that is probably an advantage going the other way. From Voss, you'd be going down the steep path by bus. We spent 1 day in Bergen after going on the tour from Oslo, which wasn't enough time.

Also, I disagree with cutting a day off Oslo, especially in good weather, because you really need to spend an entire day at the Vigeland Sculpture Park in Frogner Park and on a warm July day, bring your swimsuits and go to the Frognerbadet, a fabulous swimming pool that looks more like a country club. (If you enjoy meeting the locals, we found local swimming pools are great for this!).

So that only leaves you 3 days to do everything else, and there is SO much to do and see, especially for families.

I also highly recommend Trondheim if you have the time, and want to see daylight for 22 hrs. It is such a beautiful city and great for bike riding as well.

My point of view, having been to Bergen and Oslo twice over XXXX years is, always fly one way, train the other.
Returning to Oslo in a couple weeks and I feel first or XXX times that 3 days are enough, especially if you know the local tour spots. It is a long train ride to Bergen, but well worth the sights. One direction is enough on a time limited holiday. Go there either by train or plane, doesn't matter-same route- and save precious travel time in the other direction on the plane. If you buy ahead with your International plane ticket, you might save money...but remember..time IS money!!!
and enjoy our favorite Bergen restaurant,The Unicorn. On the Brigen(old waterfront) it is colorful and delicious, but make reservations as it is very popular. If you are there during market day on the wharf, looky loo and buy a fantastic sea food sandwich. Most vendors will custom order your preferences! you are in for SUCH A GREAT HOLIDAy!!!!!