Peg...I see where you want to eventually take in the Pierre Loti cafe...great..one of the highlights of my two visits.

Make a note for your next trip to incomparable Istanbul...must get to Pierre Loti Cafe before 5 pm, sit outside, have a tea or coffee or (?) and at 5 slightly out of sync, you will hear the call to prayer emanating from several mosques while your gazing at the handsome Golden Horn below. Enjoy.
I first came across this description in Lonely Planet more than 20 years ago, although it was hinted to me while working with the Turkish Airforce years before that. I have since recommended the experience to many Fodorites and family/friends.

stu tower

peg..forgot to mention, It seems to me I saw in another post of yours some time ago that your husband is a BU grad.

stu tower, Emerson College, (Boston) '51 A.B., BU '53, Ed.M

Your detailed report will provide some concrete help to Fodorites planning to visit Turkey.
stu

Stephh, that day was the only cool day we had. It got progressively warmer as we were there. I wouldn't say it was hot like Cappadocia was but we got quite uncomfortably hot trekking along under the sun.

Tower, thanks for the Pierre Loti tip. It sounds wondrous. And, yes, my husband is a BU grad. I can't believe you remembered!

Stu remembers everything

Hey Murat...how's everything going? I hope well...
stu

Peg and others, I clicked on the link for the apartment you rented, and it is no longer for rent. I found another listing that is in the same neighborhood. We've rented apartments in London before, but never anywhere else in Europe. What do you think of this apartment/location? Was it convenient enough to the metro, sites you can walk to (we walk a LOT on urban trips)? We'll also be 4 adults, and in Istabul for six nights.

http://www.vrbo.com/411373#rates

sf, I loved the location. Depending on where along the mile-long Istiklal St. you are, you're relatively close to transportation. If you're close to the middle of that street you probably have a 10 - 15 min walk to transportation on either end. (There's the tram that runs along the street but I'd only take it if you are not in a hurry because it's super slow). On the Taksim Square side you're another 5-10 min to the metro. On the other end of the street you're at the Sishane metro station or you can take the funicular down and walk another few minutes over to the Karakoy station at the end of the Galata Bridge.

However, be warned you're not on the side where the major historic sites are. If you're only in Istanbul for a few days I can see staying closer to Sultanahment, because otherwise you're spending at least 1/2 hour or more each day trekking over. However, if you're there longer--as we were--it was great being out of tourist central and in an area full of evening options.

Peg, we'll be there 6 nights and our son and DIL will be there 8 nights - that's why I was thinking an apartment would make sense. I'll try to figure out exactly where the apartment is.

sf, it looks like it's on the same street as the apartment I stayed at. I really did love the location, as long as you don't mind not being right at a metro. The only thing I couldn't figure out from the listing is what floor the apartment is on. If it's high up without an elevator that might be something to consider.

I'm pretty sure it's on the 3rd floor, which we will take into consideration. Thanks!

We will be flying from Kayseri to Izmir with Sunexpress. Just curious if they checked the weight of your carry on and checked baggage. When it refers to one carry on I gather that means nothing else even a purse. I'm praying the flight is not cancelled as they are the only one to fly direct without routing through Istanbul.By the way a great report.

Whistler, I honestly don't remember. We checked our bags, so our carry-on was just my bag and my husband's messenger bag. I"m pretty sure they didn't take those from us and weigh, but I can't be absolutely sure.

What I do remember is that when we flew Kayseri to Istanbul the grumpy guy who checked us in told us we really should check in our luggage (which we hadn't planned on doing) so we did. I was annoyed when I saw plenty of people taking the same size luggage onboard as carryons.

Kayseri did seem altogether a less laid-back airport than Izmir overall. I wonder if it's just because the cramped feeling of it made everyone more grumpy.

Dear PegS,
I like to read travel blogs, and I loved to read yours. I mostly read Istanbul posts to find out how a "strangers" observes my hometown. I learned quite a lot from your post, thank you. I am living in the northern-european side of the city, and actually when I go to touristic part of the city (i.e constantinople peninsula) I feel myself as a tourist also. Sometimes i feel jelous about tourist really enjoy the the town, becouse as an employee in the financial district, the city itself becomes a workplace for me and holiday means for me is to escape from istanbul. But I have few suggestions for you if you come again: 1) you can attend a underground city tour, you can check antonina tour website, there is a roman city beneath the visible city, I'm sure you'll be impressed. 2) to eat good fish and meze's, try fish restaurans around sarıyer neighbourhood. I can suggest beylerbeyi also 3) attend a turkish wedding ceremony, or go to a football match. You may find turks when entertaining to be very joyfull. 4) in istanbul you can find much more diverse food cultures, but you can add cities as antakya, gaziantep, adana or mardin to your list. 5) you should see pamukkale 6) consider taking a blue voyage

best regards..

niyazi, we will be in Istanbul in June, so I have a few questions. What is "pamukkale" and what is a "blue voyage"?

We're considering a blue voyage. Do they offer day trip options or only the week long overnight ones?
Thanks for the tips niyazi!

Niyazi, thank you for the great ideas! I had no idea I could do an underground city tour, which sounds especially fascinating. I really hope to also make it during hamsi season.

I know what you mean about not exploring your own city. I work in San Francisco, one of the world's favorite tourist spots. Yet it always amazes me that on weekends I don't take advantage of all the city as to offer.

Sf: I'm not niyazi, but, but visiting Pamukkale and a blue voyage would be things you'd do outside of Istanbul. Here's info on both:
http://www.turkeytravelplanner.com/go/Aegean/Pamukkale/
http://www.turkeytravelplanner.com/special/yacht/

Peg, I work in San Francisco too!

Ha sf7307! I wondered, given your username!

I realized that I havent mentioned my best holiday destination that I adored and looking forward to go back: Kackar mountains in the Black Sea region. However I found out that there are no proper english websites for those local tour operators. (That seems a good business opportunity by the way) Below is the link of the tour I attended, its in turkish but all the guys could speak english. It'a a nature/tracking and culture tour that I can highly recommend. It requireds some physical strength though.

http://www.bukla.com/gp-tour/dogu-karadeniz-yaylalari

english websites for gourmet tours is also lacking. as a native, I dont need agents for such tours, but you may need one to arrange connections. I found out one agent that ı took a tour before also makes such tours to adana, gaziantep and antakya. I recomment one of such tours also. you will really feel enough to eat especially you may find antakya (antioch) quite interesting, as it hosts worlds first church found by Saint Peter himself before he went to Rome, one of the capitols of helenic state, third biggest Roman city ot the time etc. etc. but novadays, its quite close to a problamatic syrian border, therefore it may me wise to wait for settling down no problem with other cities.

http://www.deepnature.com/gurme-turlari

@happyTrvlr: As far as I know, a true blue voyage is at least a week long, there are surely daily trips but the concept is different.

@sf7307: PegS's links are quite informative, no more to add, but both are outside istanbul activities. For istanbul, you can beat PegS's track, its a perfect 5-days program. You may just add prince's island tour to it, especially Buyukada. To find out how middle-class istanbul people spend a day, you may also have a walk in Bagdat Caddesi (Baghdat Street)in suadiye district- optional

Thank for reading