Falling Hard for Turkey – Sept. 14 – 28, 2012
Nov 2nd, 2012, 08:09 AM
#21
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Istanbul – Day Six – Going Native
Shopping & More Shopping
We tried to go to Lades 2 for breakfast but they were closed for construction. We ended up instead at Saray Muhallebicisi. I thought they only served desserts, but when we peeked in we saw people eating the egg dish menemen.
Thus fortified, we then took our first Metro ride to Osmanbey. I had wanted to go to Nişantaşı, but I’d forgotten to bring my printout of Enigma2007’s Nisantasi walk, so naturally we got lost. Instead, we ended up at the Istanbul Military Museum.
The museum is very large and impressive, detailing Turkish military history all the way through the Ottoman Empire and into the 20th century wars. The Armenian room was rather disturbing, with a decidedly pro-Turkey bent. But if you’re a military buff all the weaponry and costumes and history makes it a must-visit. They even had camel saddles!
My husband and I parted ways after we got back to our apartment to do individual shopping. Next thing you know, I was following some jaywalkers across the multiple lanes of traffic, tram tracks, and sidewalk barriers of Kemeralti Caddesi, When I reached the other side, having not batted an eye, I realized with a thrill Istanbul had sunk into my bones. I was jaywalking like a native! Too bad it was our last day.
I headed back to Gulluoglu to see if I could buy some baklava as gifts. Next time before I go I’ll need a primer, because they were so busy that I could not figure out the system there and how to ask someone if they were able to pack for travel. I slinked away, intimidated. However, back on the streets in Karakoy I found bought some evil eye souvenirs. (Yes, they are everywhere, so don’t buy the first ones you see.)
Back in Galata, I found all the little independent boutiques I’d neglected to identify before our trip—right off of “Musician Street.” I was kicking myself that I hadn’t figured this out earlier in the week.
I found a large vintage closing store off of Istiklal, which I wish I’d had more time to explore. Then off to Koska to buy some Turkish Delights as gifts, and stock up on as much pişmaniye—the halva cotton candy--as I could stuff in my luggage.
I finally tracked down a souvenir for myself at a jewelry store across from the Museum of Innocence. The store makes jewelry that are supposedly replicas of ancient artifacts. Mine is a silver birdbath that is a reproduction of a Hittite item.
We had a late lunch of wet burgers at the famed Kizilkayalar off Taksim Square, but agreed we preferred kokorec.
Our last dinner was at the amazing Hayvore at the end of our street, which has old-fashioned Turkish cuisine interpreted with a twist. Then we headed back at Vera, where we tried their kokorec plate. Unlike the other two places we went to, where the kokorec was being constantly roasted, they chopped up the kokorec then stir-fried it before serving it to us. I felt the flavor was lacking a bit with this method.
One last bag of roasted chestnuts from the street, and then home to finish packing.
Shopping & More Shopping
We tried to go to Lades 2 for breakfast but they were closed for construction. We ended up instead at Saray Muhallebicisi. I thought they only served desserts, but when we peeked in we saw people eating the egg dish menemen.
Thus fortified, we then took our first Metro ride to Osmanbey. I had wanted to go to Nişantaşı, but I’d forgotten to bring my printout of Enigma2007’s Nisantasi walk, so naturally we got lost. Instead, we ended up at the Istanbul Military Museum.
The museum is very large and impressive, detailing Turkish military history all the way through the Ottoman Empire and into the 20th century wars. The Armenian room was rather disturbing, with a decidedly pro-Turkey bent. But if you’re a military buff all the weaponry and costumes and history makes it a must-visit. They even had camel saddles!
My husband and I parted ways after we got back to our apartment to do individual shopping. Next thing you know, I was following some jaywalkers across the multiple lanes of traffic, tram tracks, and sidewalk barriers of Kemeralti Caddesi, When I reached the other side, having not batted an eye, I realized with a thrill Istanbul had sunk into my bones. I was jaywalking like a native! Too bad it was our last day.
I headed back to Gulluoglu to see if I could buy some baklava as gifts. Next time before I go I’ll need a primer, because they were so busy that I could not figure out the system there and how to ask someone if they were able to pack for travel. I slinked away, intimidated. However, back on the streets in Karakoy I found bought some evil eye souvenirs. (Yes, they are everywhere, so don’t buy the first ones you see.)
Back in Galata, I found all the little independent boutiques I’d neglected to identify before our trip—right off of “Musician Street.” I was kicking myself that I hadn’t figured this out earlier in the week.
I found a large vintage closing store off of Istiklal, which I wish I’d had more time to explore. Then off to Koska to buy some Turkish Delights as gifts, and stock up on as much pişmaniye—the halva cotton candy--as I could stuff in my luggage.
I finally tracked down a souvenir for myself at a jewelry store across from the Museum of Innocence. The store makes jewelry that are supposedly replicas of ancient artifacts. Mine is a silver birdbath that is a reproduction of a Hittite item.
We had a late lunch of wet burgers at the famed Kizilkayalar off Taksim Square, but agreed we preferred kokorec.
Our last dinner was at the amazing Hayvore at the end of our street, which has old-fashioned Turkish cuisine interpreted with a twist. Then we headed back at Vera, where we tried their kokorec plate. Unlike the other two places we went to, where the kokorec was being constantly roasted, they chopped up the kokorec then stir-fried it before serving it to us. I felt the flavor was lacking a bit with this method.
One last bag of roasted chestnuts from the street, and then home to finish packing.
Nov 2nd, 2012, 08:10 AM
#22
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Heading Home
In the morning, we dragged our luggage up Istiklal to take the Havatas bus. I’d scouted out the location the other day, and was glad I did because it wasn’t nearly as straight-forward as I thought it would be.
For those of you wondering how to find the Havatas stop at Taksim: essentially, if you're coming up Istiklal toward Taksim Square, look for the Ataturk monument and pretend you can head straight through it to the other side of Taksim Square. (In reality, a traffic circle surrounds it). When you're on the other side of the square, continue along the sidewalk slightly to your left. In front of you should start to see a bunch of fast food restaurants. (You should be able to see a McDonald's awning in the distance.) You'll continue past these restaurants until you see the Turkish Airlines sign past the fast food restaurants. Keep walking. You'll start to finally see the Havatas signs and buses on your left lining the street. On the buses will be clearly marked which ones are for SAW and which ones for Ataturk, but it doesn't hurt to confirm with the bus driver standing on the street. Then just give them your luggage, get on, and just before the bus leaves someone comes on board to collect your money.
At the airport we went thought the familiar security line for entering the terminal. Then…be warned…the Turkish Airlines counter for the U.S. is on the other side of the main Turkish Airlines international counter. We stood in a line for a bit until someone told us we were in the wrong line. When we went over to the other side, we saw they had counters designated for each upcoming U.S. flight.
Then another security line, blessedly short, to get to the gates. We had our last Turkish meal at the food court—again surprisingly good, but maybe it was just in comparison to fast food airport food—and I saw the shops that had the Gulluoglu baklava, nicely packaged in plastic boxes. Next time, I’ll definitely get final souvenirs at the airport.
When we got to the gate, there was yet another security line to get to our Turkish Airline gate. I was glad we didn’t wait until the last minute because the line got increasingly long as we got closer to boarding time. So give yourself some extra time when you head to the gate.
This time around, they let the Comfort Class passengers board with Business Class. We settled in, and prepared to say goodbye to Istanbul.
In the morning, we dragged our luggage up Istiklal to take the Havatas bus. I’d scouted out the location the other day, and was glad I did because it wasn’t nearly as straight-forward as I thought it would be.
For those of you wondering how to find the Havatas stop at Taksim: essentially, if you're coming up Istiklal toward Taksim Square, look for the Ataturk monument and pretend you can head straight through it to the other side of Taksim Square. (In reality, a traffic circle surrounds it). When you're on the other side of the square, continue along the sidewalk slightly to your left. In front of you should start to see a bunch of fast food restaurants. (You should be able to see a McDonald's awning in the distance.) You'll continue past these restaurants until you see the Turkish Airlines sign past the fast food restaurants. Keep walking. You'll start to finally see the Havatas signs and buses on your left lining the street. On the buses will be clearly marked which ones are for SAW and which ones for Ataturk, but it doesn't hurt to confirm with the bus driver standing on the street. Then just give them your luggage, get on, and just before the bus leaves someone comes on board to collect your money.
At the airport we went thought the familiar security line for entering the terminal. Then…be warned…the Turkish Airlines counter for the U.S. is on the other side of the main Turkish Airlines international counter. We stood in a line for a bit until someone told us we were in the wrong line. When we went over to the other side, we saw they had counters designated for each upcoming U.S. flight.
Then another security line, blessedly short, to get to the gates. We had our last Turkish meal at the food court—again surprisingly good, but maybe it was just in comparison to fast food airport food—and I saw the shops that had the Gulluoglu baklava, nicely packaged in plastic boxes. Next time, I’ll definitely get final souvenirs at the airport.
When we got to the gate, there was yet another security line to get to our Turkish Airline gate. I was glad we didn’t wait until the last minute because the line got increasingly long as we got closer to boarding time. So give yourself some extra time when you head to the gate.
This time around, they let the Comfort Class passengers board with Business Class. We settled in, and prepared to say goodbye to Istanbul.
Nov 2nd, 2012, 08:13 AM
#23
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Final Wrap-Up:
"Things I Enjoyed the Most"
Roasted chestnuts everywhere
The call of the Alpine swifts overhead
The view of the Old City from our apartment balcony
Kabap restaurants
Kokorec
Pişmaniye
Chora Church
All those gorgeous mosques everywhere
Staying off Istiklal, within proximity to all those great restaurants and shops
Watching the protests that marched along Istiklal nearly every other day, and trying to figure out what the cause was.
Unexpectedly bumping into the South African couple we’d seen in Selcuk and Cappadocia on Istiklal, in the evening, among the crowd, going the other direction.
Visiting Ibo at the Spice Market
"New Things We Intend to Hit Next Time"
Rumeli Fortress
The Museum of Innocence
The Istanbul Modern
Pierre Loti Café (perhaps by taking the Backpacker’s Travel tour, so we can also hit the Chora Church again without getting lost…again)
Kanlica to try their famous yogurt
The Asian side and Nisantasi walks I meant to take
Istanbul Eats “Secrets of the Old City” tour
All those boutiques I missed
"Things I Enjoyed the Most"
Roasted chestnuts everywhere
The call of the Alpine swifts overhead
The view of the Old City from our apartment balcony
Kabap restaurants
Kokorec
Pişmaniye
Chora Church
All those gorgeous mosques everywhere
Staying off Istiklal, within proximity to all those great restaurants and shops
Watching the protests that marched along Istiklal nearly every other day, and trying to figure out what the cause was.
Unexpectedly bumping into the South African couple we’d seen in Selcuk and Cappadocia on Istiklal, in the evening, among the crowd, going the other direction.
Visiting Ibo at the Spice Market
"New Things We Intend to Hit Next Time"
Rumeli Fortress
The Museum of Innocence
The Istanbul Modern
Pierre Loti Café (perhaps by taking the Backpacker’s Travel tour, so we can also hit the Chora Church again without getting lost…again)
Kanlica to try their famous yogurt
The Asian side and Nisantasi walks I meant to take
Istanbul Eats “Secrets of the Old City” tour
All those boutiques I missed
Nov 5th, 2012, 11:59 AM
#24
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I am glad you enjoyed the Turkey Experience fully. next time in Cappadocia drop in for a cup of tea & coffee no matter business or no business 
I was loughing reading one or two line about rick s. book and suggestion; Harem needs additional admission where treasury doesn't is the simple explanation of why there were different crowds but you managed to enjoy either way.
Regards,
Murat
I was loughing reading one or two line about rick s. book and suggestion; Harem needs additional admission where treasury doesn't is the simple explanation of why there were different crowds but you managed to enjoy either way.
Regards,
Murat
Nov 6th, 2012, 07:39 AM
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Murat, I would love to meet you if we get back to Turkey next year. Your advice over the years has been invaluable.
Yes, we did enjoy Topkapi, in spite of it all. Next time we'll hit the Treasury first. ;-)
Yes, we did enjoy Topkapi, in spite of it all. Next time we'll hit the Treasury first. ;-)
Nov 9th, 2012, 09:17 AM
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PegS, I'm just taking time to read your trip report ... I do believe we channeled each other! While we didn't spend a night in Selcuk, we did just about exactly what you did and where you did it. Uncanny.
We stayed in the same apartment on Turnacıbaşı Street. We stayed in the Aydinli Cave Hotel and found Cem and Mustafa to be as charming as you did. Some of the logistics were different (we flew to Nevsehir instead of Kayseri; we took AtlasJet to and from Izmir on the same day; we had Royal Balloons ... like that) but on whole amazingly similar.
Wasn't it great?
We stayed in the same apartment on Turnacıbaşı Street. We stayed in the Aydinli Cave Hotel and found Cem and Mustafa to be as charming as you did. Some of the logistics were different (we flew to Nevsehir instead of Kayseri; we took AtlasJet to and from Izmir on the same day; we had Royal Balloons ... like that) but on whole amazingly similar.
Wasn't it great?
Nov 9th, 2012, 06:41 PM
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I liked the variety ... Gave me a flavor for both sides. If we were to ever return I'd rent something in a more residential neighborhood to see what life is like without a major tourist attraction two blocks away. And something that wasn't 77 steps up! ;-) We were in Room 12 at Aydinli, which wasn't the highest, but still up there.
Nov 9th, 2012, 07:08 PM
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Um...guess what room we were in at Aydinli. Yep! So funny. We must have the same tastes.
I totally agree about the steps. I loved the location of the apartment, but even after a week I was huffing a bit by the time we got to the last flight.
I totally agree about the steps. I loved the location of the apartment, but even after a week I was huffing a bit by the time we got to the last flight.
Nov 10th, 2012, 06:32 AM
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So, we had the same basic destinations, same apartment, same room in the same cave hotel, had Megan as our Istanbul Eats tour guide (and thus frequented the same Spice Market vendors she recommended -- Ibo loved us as much as he did you) ate at the same restaurants, took the same bus to the airport... Wonder how often something like this happens?
Peg, be sure to let me know where your next vacation is. Would be spooky if we match up again!
Peg, be sure to let me know where your next vacation is. Would be spooky if we match up again!
Nov 12th, 2012, 09:57 AM
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We've been talking about Scandinavia (Denmark, Norway, one other....maybe trying to squeeze in Iceland if we take Icelandic Air) or Japan for awhile. But there's also a very real chance we end up back in Turkey next year. I feel like there's still so much to explore, and wouldn't mind going when my memory is still fresh enough so I'm not bumbling through it again.
Nov 13th, 2012, 04:56 AM
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Well, Peg, if you change your mind and decide on Africa, be sure to let me know. That's where we're leaning at the moment. A colleague of mine is raving about the safari and Victoria Falls and candlelit dinners by the Zambezi. He's the same one who raved about the Hagia Sophia and Turkish food and look what happened there.
Jan 26th, 2013, 01:47 AM
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Hi PegS,
I've actually posted this as a general question on the forum as well but I was quite taken by your comment thatyou came across many ATMs that dispensed US$ and Eyro as well as TLY.
Were those ATMs associated with a particular brand? And were they all over,or just in bigger towns.
Thanks for your report. Greg
I've actually posted this as a general question on the forum as well but I was quite taken by your comment thatyou came across many ATMs that dispensed US$ and Eyro as well as TLY.
Were those ATMs associated with a particular brand? And were they all over,or just in bigger towns.
Thanks for your report. Greg
Jan 28th, 2013, 07:54 AM
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Hi Greg. I saw ATMs...and they were pretty much all of them...that dispensed all three currencies in Goreme. I also believe we saw them in Sultanahmet by all the big sights, but along Istiklal they were all TL only.
Feb 2nd, 2013, 06:50 AM
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Loved your report! I am planning a trip to Istanbul later this year. How was the weather in late September? You mentioned arriving in 50 degree rain! We try to avoid super hot weather. Wonderground.com suggests it can be very hot in September. Thanks for all the info!
