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Exploring Trastevere...

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Old Feb 10th, 2008 | 08:28 PM
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Exploring Trastevere...

On our third trip to Rome, we hope to FINALLY venture into Trastevere!

I read somewhere here on this great forum that it's nice to take cab up to Janiculum Hill for the view, and then "walk down to Trastevere" from there.

1. Which area or streets of Trastevere should we focus on to get the most of our afternoon / early evening?

2. Would it be okay to time this so as to walk down during dusk and then have dinner in Trastevere?

3. How long is the walk and how much time should we allow for the area?

We'd like to see the main church, shops, and enjoy the local flavor of the area.

Thanks for any tips or advice on your favorite things in the area.

dina
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Old Feb 11th, 2008 | 04:03 PM
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anyone, please?

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Old Feb 11th, 2008 | 04:47 PM
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I've seen a detailed walks for all areas of Rome, but have forgotten which web site it was on. See if this one helps any.
http://www.vagabondo.net/index.php/c...me:_Trastevere
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Old Feb 11th, 2008 | 05:45 PM
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Thanks, kybourban.
That website did have good information.

Would love to hear more about your favorites in Trastevere!

thanks!
dina
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Old Feb 11th, 2008 | 05:54 PM
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Da Meo Patacca (?) is a fun restaurant in Trastevere with a great musical group that strolls around during the meal. Fun place- I think they have a web site to check out. Have a great trip. We went to Janiculum also and it was well worth it.
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Old Feb 11th, 2008 | 05:59 PM
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Also there is a canon they fire everyday at noon by the Giribaldi statue. We heard it everyday the rest of our trip!!
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Old Feb 12th, 2008 | 09:49 AM
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Thanks, TexasTiger!
I made note of your comments!

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Old Feb 12th, 2008 | 10:09 AM
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Wow I wish I had had that "Vagabondo" information the last time I was wandering around the Trastevere. I remember the church had lovely mosiacs inside and we have stopped for refreshments several times in the piazza there (however I suspect those restaurants are more pricey than those on the little alleyways further in). I had to laugh at the post that mentions the strolling musicians - one night we were eating in a little restaurant and a older gentleman (perhaps the owner) came out and played the guitar. From the building across the street came some techno music - the louder the old man played, the louder the techno music became - quite the battle of the bands and I assume the generations as well. Have a wonderful trip!
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Old Feb 14th, 2008 | 06:33 PM
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That is so funny, Sue!

I can't wait to explore the area.

Any other comments or tips are appreciated!!

thanks!

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Old Feb 14th, 2008 | 11:16 PM
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Here is a little extract from my trip report (hoping to finish this weekend now that my daughters engagement party is over and I am back into work with the new term commencing)I think the area had lots of character and hope to return there one day.
From day 3 "We walked from the Vatican through the Trastevere district and again hunger and thirst helped us to decide on a restaurant for lunch. It was a lovely little restaurant, of course in a little laneway, called La Concinara. The walking had earnt us entrees of Zucchini flowers and Stracciatella soup, followed by mains of Fettucine Porcini and seafood Risotto. Yum, wish I was back there. Oh, and of course a bottle of red!
After lunch we visited Basilica Di Santa Maria in Trastevere with stunning mosaics and bell tower(these bells ring every 15mins) We walked back to our apartment having gelati on the way.Of course, one gelato a day!
After a relaxing dinner on the balcony we returned to the Basilica Di Santa Maria for mass and a concert featuring a beautiful choir. They were wonderful and the setting was wonderful. We sat in the café at the Piazza and enjoyed coffee and desert before a lovely walk back to our apartment in the rain- lucky we had our wet weather gear. It was lovely crossing the Tiber with Castel Sant Angelo in the background.Then a bit of Italian TV – South Park in Italian. Another great day in Italia!"

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Old Feb 15th, 2008 | 12:07 AM
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We crossed the Tiber to Travestere on the bridge near the Orthodox Jewish Temple. Incidentally, in the street behind the Temple is some of the best pizza you'll find in all of Rome. Also fried artichokes.
Once you cross the bridge, just roam the streets - it's all interesting. We had dinner in a wonderful restaurant called Da Ottello. Antipasta buffet, then the entree is brought to the table. Small tables fairly close together, so if you are fortunate, you get to meet other people. When we were there our "table mates" were a couple, each married to other people, who met one week each year.
It was quite dark when we re-crossed the bridge and the buses had stopped running and no taxis were to be found, so we had to return to Travestere to catch a taxi from the line-up that waits by their side of the bridge.
Incidentally, our visit was in 1996, so things may have changed by now!
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Old Feb 15th, 2008 | 04:03 AM
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If you go up to the Janiculum, you can take a cab (or a #870 bus from near the Vatican) to Piazzale Garibaldi for the view. (there is another bus stop before it with a monument to Anita Garibaldi and the Manfredi lighthouse but we did not stop there)
From the Piazzale Garibaldi stop you can either walk down through the botanical gardens to the area near Palazzo Corsini which is at the northern end of Trastevere or go downhill on a route that will end up near Santa Maria de Trastevere. We did the latter.
On the way you can see the monumental Fontana dell'Acqua Paola on Via Garibaldi. Following the Via Garibaldi downhill you will reach San Pietro in Montorio. In its courtyard is Bramante's Tempietto, considered to be the first Renaissance building in Rome. From San Pietro there are stairs going farther downhill ending at Via della Paglia in Trastevere. This street will take you to Santa Maria in Trastevere and its piazza.
Our family rented an apartment last year in the ghetto section of the city, so we finished our walk by crossing over the Isola Tiberina with its ancient pedestrian bridge, church of San Bartolomeo all'Isola, etc.

The whole walk probably took us about 2 1/2 hours with stops to see the San Pietro interior and have gelato, etc. We had already visited the interior of Santa Maria de T on another walk. It has beautiful mosaics on the facade and interior as another poster has noted.

We have a DK Eyewitness guide to Rome which has walking tour suggestions and points out other things to see along the way. It estimates 2 hours for the Janiculum and Trastevere

If you get a good tourist map of the city you will see the various stops I am suggesting marked and will understand the route better

the church of Santa Cecelia in Trastevere and surrounding neighborhood, farther south than Santa Maria in T;, is also worth exploring.

We concentrated on restaurants in the ghetto area and did not eat in Trastevere so I can't recommend restaurants there
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Old Feb 15th, 2008 | 04:31 AM
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Hello dina, Trastevere is a good place to stay at night in Rome there are lots of restaurant or trattoria where you can have good food it depend't your budget:

The best restaurant in trastevere are:
www.checcoercarettiere.it
Via Benedetta 10 tel 06.5817018
www.soralella.com
Via di Ponte Quattro Capi 16 tel 06.6861601
Alberto ciarla
Piazza San Cosimato 40 tel 06.5818668
Augusto
Piazza de Renzi 15 tel 06.5803798

About your choose to stay in Gianicolo, i think is too quite, better is to find an accommodation in trastevere where you can walk easy to vatican or across Tevere river to piazza Navona ecc.. i think is better to stay in Trastevere that is in the center of Rome and well connected by pubblic transport.

Here is a website where you can find lots of B&B in Trastevere, i can suggest you "Your Nest in Rome" that is superior quality B&B such as a luxury Hotel or "Il Trasteverino B&B" or "Cuore Trasteverino" always in trastevere area use www.allhome.eu to reach them so you can watch their pics among with Google Maps, for each lodging you contact direct the owner so is easy to have special price.

Sorry for my english i'm roman.

Have good time in Rome.

Mauro

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Old Feb 15th, 2008 | 06:31 AM
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We walked up (to Piazza Garibaldi)and took a cab down. Here's a bit from my trip report:

We crossed the Ponte G. Mazzini and up Via Corsini for a long walk to the Botanical Gardens. What a wonderful gem this place is. If you have never been and are looking for a place to relax, unwind and cool off please find your way to these gardens. The entry fee is only 4 euro each and the area covers 30 acres on the Gianicolo Hill, below the Piazza Garibaldi. Save your ticket, it is a beautiful little work of art. I am a gardener so this was a special treat for me. Even though nothing was in bloom, everything was still green and the smell of the gardens was fresh and sweet.

Got a quick coffee for stamina for the impending walk up – up- up Via Cosini to the steep and winding Via Garibaldi. If you choose to walk this road, be very careful as it is one lane each way, many blind spots because of the curves and no sidewalks to speak of. You have to inch your way along the shoulder very close to the cars at times. You will eventually make your way to the top of the Gianicolo and to the Piazza Garibaldi.

Once there, you’ll be treated to a breathtaking view of the city. The angle of this view does not include St. Peter’s unless you walk across the street to see it on the other side. None the less, a view you will not tire of..the walk is another story.
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Old Feb 15th, 2008 | 04:35 PM
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Thanks so much for everyone for all the great information!! I really appreciate your thoughtfulness.

dina
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Old Feb 16th, 2008 | 03:32 AM
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dina4--sandi travelnut's description of the strenuous walk "up up" the hill is the main reason I suggest getting to the top by bus or taxi and walking down, down.

Here is a link to a thread from last fall about restaurants in Trastevere that you might find useful
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=35031888
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Old Feb 16th, 2008 | 06:21 AM
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If it's getting dark then don't try walking up or down. It's just too dangerous and there are no sidewalks.
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Old Feb 16th, 2008 | 06:48 AM
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good advice, Sandi.

vttraveler - i was definitely thinking to walk DOWNHILL. everytime we've been in rome it's SO hot!

I will check out that thread later today. thanks so much!!

dina
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Old Feb 16th, 2008 | 07:01 AM
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dina4:

You might walk to check out the Botanical Garden in Trastevere, which is part of the University of Rome’s Department of Plant Biology. I just happened to bump into it while strolling about in May 2006, but the flyer I’m consulting now says its between Via della Lungara and the Giancolo Hill, in the garden of Palazzo Corsini. Its 30 acres include a rose garden, Japanese garden, ponds, greenhouses, and large variety of trees and shrubs. I was particularly struck by the succulents and orchids. I know they have guided tours. It’s a nice respite fom the streets.
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Old Feb 16th, 2008 | 07:18 AM
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That sounds so lovely. I adore visiting gardens, so I will definitely make note of that. (sandi loved it, too)

Thanks!

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