Espagne, Olé! Ancient to modern, through Andalucia, Toledo and Madrid
Jun 21st, 2015, 02:51 AM
#161
Original Poster
Patience, I haven't forgotten you, loyal readers! I have just had a hectic week and am trying to find time to finish up the last section on Madrid.
Perhaps I'm just not ready to end the trip! Although I have yet to edit the photos, so maybe that's what I"m putting off.
Jet lag was on reason that I was able to get so much written the first 2 weeks post-trip! I was up way too early to go to work but was wide awake -- now that I've settled in to some semblance of normal sleeping, I don't have my morning writing time anymore.
It's getting there, though.
Perhaps I'm just not ready to end the trip! Although I have yet to edit the photos, so maybe that's what I"m putting off.
Jet lag was on reason that I was able to get so much written the first 2 weeks post-trip! I was up way too early to go to work but was wide awake -- now that I've settled in to some semblance of normal sleeping, I don't have my morning writing time anymore.
It's getting there, though.
Jun 23rd, 2015, 02:18 AM
#165
Original Poster
Okay, loyal readers, here goes the beginning of the end....
MADRID
I have had a lot of difficulty writing up the section on Madrid. It probably reflects our lagging energy at the end of the trip so I’ve been struggling with capturing the experience. Arriving in a major city at the end of a trip does have drawbacks because of the lack of energy and diminished drive for sightseeing.
We liked Madrid, didn’t love it, but that might be due, in large part, to our lack of energy. We’ve both been dealing with some health issues that have impacted our energy; I don’t walk as extensively as I used to and the afternoon siesta was a necessary break for us both. And we clearly missed some of the cultural aspects of Madrid, as we were usually home by 11:00pm (23:00).
Without a doubt, there are many sights and areas that we didn’t see, and I hope that someday, we’ll get back to see some of the neighborhoods and sights that we didn’t see this time. I would’ve loved to see flamenco in Madrid, but by this point in the trip, we had been to 4 flamenco shows, and M. had seen enough. So that’s something else to return for!
We were fortunate to have a friend in Madrid, and we met up with her for one evening – it was a pleasure to know someone locally, and hanging out with her and talking with our AirBnB host really added to a more personal relationship to the city.
Most of our time spent in Madrid was in the downtown area, from the Paseo del Prado and the Barrio de Las Letras to the Palacio Real, wandering the smaller streets, coming upon the Plazas, and getting a flavor of the major sights in the city. We explored a little of the neighborhoods beyond the major downtown areas, though not extensively. We tended to eat locally, and even ate in our own apartment one evening – that was a treat!
What we loved was the ART. And I do mean ART with capital letters! We went to the 3 major art museums – the Prado, the Reina Sofia, and the Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza. Wow, is all I can say! Each one stands out for their remarkable collections and presentation. We saw one each day, and they were, without a doubt, highlights for us. The collections are so stellar that seeing art we had read about and seen only in books, was just thrilling.
On to Madrid….
May 20/Wednesday
We aced the weather in Malaga as it was overcast when we left, with showers predicted for the afternoon. Good breakfast at the hotel, a quick taxi cab to the train station and that's that. We arrive in Madrid, after an easy ride on the train, at 11:50am, for the final leg of the trip. El viaje es maravilloso!
From Atocha, it was perhaps a 15-minute walk to our AirBnB apartment, Prado Museum Air Apt Madrid (https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/339171) on Calle de Jesus, just of Calle de Las Huertas. Our host was not available, but the concierge/doorman had keys for us, so we were able to let ourselves in and get settled before we met with him.
The apartment is in a fabulous location – right in the middle of Las Letras, former home to many writers of the Spanish Golden Age, this is a charming, bohemian, Greenwich-village (NYC) like neighborhood, filled with tapas bars, restaurants and shops. It’s a short walk to Paseo del Prado and the major art museums.
There was a discussion a while back over the neighborhood and being perhaps unsavory or too loud at night. Not so! It was a very sweet apartment, nicely set up with simple furniture, and a lot of light; it was a pleasant and comfortable place to end our trip.
After a while, our host, Cesar, came by; he is a very lovely man who lives in the building with his wife and his warmth and enthusiasm was a wonderful welcome to Madrid. We spent some time talking with him, first getting oriented to the apartment and the city and then about travels and Spain. He was available by phone whenever we needed him, and, when we had a problem understanding how to use the washing machine, his wife came over to help us out. He provided us with a neighborhood map identifying retaurants, shops and other places of interest and had put together a nice guide of the different parts of the city. He was just a pleasure to know and having that contact really added an extra dimension to our trip.
After settling in, we took off for our afternoon walk to get a feel for the city. We wandered through the streets and plazas, seeing the charming Plaza Santa Ana, the grand Plaza Mayor, and over to the Palacio Real. We spent some time walking around the Plaza Mayor – a large, attractive square, with its Habsburg buildings and a heroic statue of King Phillip III, this feels . Surprisingly not too crowded, either.
We stopped into the Mercado de San Miguel, an upscale market filled with lots of stalls, took a quick walk around and continued on our way.
Over to the Palacio Real (didn’t go in today, just wanted to get an idea where it was) and then walked partway along the Gran Via, a pretty boring, commercial stretch.
We walked through the Puerta del Sol, a carnival! This is the Times Square of Madrid. A major plaza, filled with street theater of all kinds – musicians, painted/costumed people, hustlers of fake goods, you name it it’s there. We walked through, getting the vibe and moved on.
After shopping and taking a late siesta, we went out for dinner. By 8:30-9:00pm, restaurants were starting to fill up, and we had a hard time deciding where to go. We stayed within our neighborhood, and wandered into several places to see about availability, but by this time, the wait was too long or the place was too crowded. Reservations are needed for the more popular places
We settled on Maceiras Taberna, right around the corner from where we were staying. By the time we got there, it was near 10:00pm (22:00) and hopping, but a lot of fun. A casual, Galican restaurant, with long tables that are shared by patrons. Crowded, chaotic fun! We had cod croquetas, pulpo (octopus – their specialty), and crab and clam dish that was so-so. The pulpo was excellent – tender and tasty.
End of day 1 in Madrid!
MADRID
I have had a lot of difficulty writing up the section on Madrid. It probably reflects our lagging energy at the end of the trip so I’ve been struggling with capturing the experience. Arriving in a major city at the end of a trip does have drawbacks because of the lack of energy and diminished drive for sightseeing.
We liked Madrid, didn’t love it, but that might be due, in large part, to our lack of energy. We’ve both been dealing with some health issues that have impacted our energy; I don’t walk as extensively as I used to and the afternoon siesta was a necessary break for us both. And we clearly missed some of the cultural aspects of Madrid, as we were usually home by 11:00pm (23:00).
Without a doubt, there are many sights and areas that we didn’t see, and I hope that someday, we’ll get back to see some of the neighborhoods and sights that we didn’t see this time. I would’ve loved to see flamenco in Madrid, but by this point in the trip, we had been to 4 flamenco shows, and M. had seen enough. So that’s something else to return for!
We were fortunate to have a friend in Madrid, and we met up with her for one evening – it was a pleasure to know someone locally, and hanging out with her and talking with our AirBnB host really added to a more personal relationship to the city.
Most of our time spent in Madrid was in the downtown area, from the Paseo del Prado and the Barrio de Las Letras to the Palacio Real, wandering the smaller streets, coming upon the Plazas, and getting a flavor of the major sights in the city. We explored a little of the neighborhoods beyond the major downtown areas, though not extensively. We tended to eat locally, and even ate in our own apartment one evening – that was a treat!
What we loved was the ART. And I do mean ART with capital letters! We went to the 3 major art museums – the Prado, the Reina Sofia, and the Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza. Wow, is all I can say! Each one stands out for their remarkable collections and presentation. We saw one each day, and they were, without a doubt, highlights for us. The collections are so stellar that seeing art we had read about and seen only in books, was just thrilling.
On to Madrid….
May 20/Wednesday
We aced the weather in Malaga as it was overcast when we left, with showers predicted for the afternoon. Good breakfast at the hotel, a quick taxi cab to the train station and that's that. We arrive in Madrid, after an easy ride on the train, at 11:50am, for the final leg of the trip. El viaje es maravilloso!
From Atocha, it was perhaps a 15-minute walk to our AirBnB apartment, Prado Museum Air Apt Madrid (https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/339171) on Calle de Jesus, just of Calle de Las Huertas. Our host was not available, but the concierge/doorman had keys for us, so we were able to let ourselves in and get settled before we met with him.
The apartment is in a fabulous location – right in the middle of Las Letras, former home to many writers of the Spanish Golden Age, this is a charming, bohemian, Greenwich-village (NYC) like neighborhood, filled with tapas bars, restaurants and shops. It’s a short walk to Paseo del Prado and the major art museums.
There was a discussion a while back over the neighborhood and being perhaps unsavory or too loud at night. Not so! It was a very sweet apartment, nicely set up with simple furniture, and a lot of light; it was a pleasant and comfortable place to end our trip.
After a while, our host, Cesar, came by; he is a very lovely man who lives in the building with his wife and his warmth and enthusiasm was a wonderful welcome to Madrid. We spent some time talking with him, first getting oriented to the apartment and the city and then about travels and Spain. He was available by phone whenever we needed him, and, when we had a problem understanding how to use the washing machine, his wife came over to help us out. He provided us with a neighborhood map identifying retaurants, shops and other places of interest and had put together a nice guide of the different parts of the city. He was just a pleasure to know and having that contact really added an extra dimension to our trip.
After settling in, we took off for our afternoon walk to get a feel for the city. We wandered through the streets and plazas, seeing the charming Plaza Santa Ana, the grand Plaza Mayor, and over to the Palacio Real. We spent some time walking around the Plaza Mayor – a large, attractive square, with its Habsburg buildings and a heroic statue of King Phillip III, this feels . Surprisingly not too crowded, either.
We stopped into the Mercado de San Miguel, an upscale market filled with lots of stalls, took a quick walk around and continued on our way.
Over to the Palacio Real (didn’t go in today, just wanted to get an idea where it was) and then walked partway along the Gran Via, a pretty boring, commercial stretch.
We walked through the Puerta del Sol, a carnival! This is the Times Square of Madrid. A major plaza, filled with street theater of all kinds – musicians, painted/costumed people, hustlers of fake goods, you name it it’s there. We walked through, getting the vibe and moved on.
After shopping and taking a late siesta, we went out for dinner. By 8:30-9:00pm, restaurants were starting to fill up, and we had a hard time deciding where to go. We stayed within our neighborhood, and wandered into several places to see about availability, but by this time, the wait was too long or the place was too crowded. Reservations are needed for the more popular places
We settled on Maceiras Taberna, right around the corner from where we were staying. By the time we got there, it was near 10:00pm (22:00) and hopping, but a lot of fun. A casual, Galican restaurant, with long tables that are shared by patrons. Crowded, chaotic fun! We had cod croquetas, pulpo (octopus – their specialty), and crab and clam dish that was so-so. The pulpo was excellent – tender and tasty.
End of day 1 in Madrid!
Jun 23rd, 2015, 10:56 AM
#166
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Enjoyed the first installment. Looking forward to the rest.
Madrid will be our last stop too, but at the end of only a 2 week vacation. We won't visit the number of "sights" as we did on our last trip to Spain - just a few cathedrals and alcazars this time - lol. Hopefully, we'll still be enthusiastic when we get to Madrid!
When we travel, we're usually done our days by midnight, at the latest. I'm hoping we can stay up "late", at least a night or two, to take in the late night cultural aspects of Madrid.
Madrid will be our last stop too, but at the end of only a 2 week vacation. We won't visit the number of "sights" as we did on our last trip to Spain - just a few cathedrals and alcazars this time - lol. Hopefully, we'll still be enthusiastic when we get to Madrid!
When we travel, we're usually done our days by midnight, at the latest. I'm hoping we can stay up "late", at least a night or two, to take in the late night cultural aspects of Madrid.
Jun 23rd, 2015, 03:38 PM
#168
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I am meditating on your initial impressions of Madrid. We also are going to end our (first, and too-short) visit to Spain in Madrid before flying home. Perhaps it is the richness of the initial impact of places you visited, like Seville and Granada's Alhambra, that produces a little bit of a letdown when you arrived in a big capital city like Madrid? Surfing the Fodor Forum and other places, you see two kinds of reactions to Madrid: love it or...well, it's good as a big city but....
Looking forward to your comments on the blockbuster sites such as the Prado and the Palacio Real. In the past couple of years I have been less eager to devote time and energy to these five-star things ("please please don't make me see St. Peter's again, I'll be good, I promise") However, the Alhambra and the Giralda loom on the horizon.
Do continue to give us your very subjective impressions of these places. I find them very helpful.
Looking forward to your comments on the blockbuster sites such as the Prado and the Palacio Real. In the past couple of years I have been less eager to devote time and energy to these five-star things ("please please don't make me see St. Peter's again, I'll be good, I promise") However, the Alhambra and the Giralda loom on the horizon.
Do continue to give us your very subjective impressions of these places. I find them very helpful.
Jun 24th, 2015, 02:33 AM
#169
Original Poster
EYWandBTV,
I don't know why, exactly, we didn't "love" Madrid, but we really liked it (I feel so junior high school now - "no, I don't love you, but I really like you"). But I do think it's a culmination of many things that are particular to us -- Madrid was at the end of the trip and our energy was flagging and making sense of a larger city was harder. We just didn't have the full drive anymore.
We also have had some health issues which have, as I said, impacted us as well. I have some difficulty walking long distances, and that does make a difference in a large city, as we used to walk for miles without a problem. We are just not late night folk. And, while we do like good food, by this point, we weren't going far from home for our meals, either, which we might've done earlier in the trip. So, had we done this more, and experienced the nightlife more, it might've added to our overall feeling.
One thing I wished we would've done is taken one of the history tours. Even in my planning, Madrid got short shrift. It was, after all, not the focus of the trip, so while I knew there were many things to see and do in the city, I didn't plan ahead for any activity.
But please don't get me wrong -- we did enjoy being in Madrid, and got a good "taste" of the city, and enjoyed the explorations that we made. Having a friend to meet up with was also wonderful, as was the interaction with our host.
I don't know why, exactly, we didn't "love" Madrid, but we really liked it (I feel so junior high school now - "no, I don't love you, but I really like you"). But I do think it's a culmination of many things that are particular to us -- Madrid was at the end of the trip and our energy was flagging and making sense of a larger city was harder. We just didn't have the full drive anymore.
We also have had some health issues which have, as I said, impacted us as well. I have some difficulty walking long distances, and that does make a difference in a large city, as we used to walk for miles without a problem. We are just not late night folk. And, while we do like good food, by this point, we weren't going far from home for our meals, either, which we might've done earlier in the trip. So, had we done this more, and experienced the nightlife more, it might've added to our overall feeling.
One thing I wished we would've done is taken one of the history tours. Even in my planning, Madrid got short shrift. It was, after all, not the focus of the trip, so while I knew there were many things to see and do in the city, I didn't plan ahead for any activity.
But please don't get me wrong -- we did enjoy being in Madrid, and got a good "taste" of the city, and enjoyed the explorations that we made. Having a friend to meet up with was also wonderful, as was the interaction with our host.
Jun 24th, 2015, 03:14 AM
#170
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Thanks again, Paule, for your thoughts, they are really helpful. I'm trying to select just a few things in Madrid, for our much-too-short visit of only two nights.
One of the things we will do is go on a history/eating tour of Botin. I know it's very touristy but it's the history, with a guide, that sounds fun, not to mention the suckling pig. As for the Botin Hemingway angle, I could care less. We live near the Hemingway House in Key West so I have had enough of him, already. I'm also interested in the Museo Cerralbo, for a look at an aristocratic home and the personal collection of art and furnishings.
I am looking forward to your impressions of the Prado. Part of me wants to avoid that, having been a culture vulture in earlier decades and having spent a lot of time in wonderful, massive museums like the Met and the Louvre. But we'll see. Perhaps duck in at 6:15 pm for a freeby visit to see the Velasquez and then scoot.
Food: did you go to any of the Basque places in Madrid, like Txirimiri?
Your loyal readers await....
One of the things we will do is go on a history/eating tour of Botin. I know it's very touristy but it's the history, with a guide, that sounds fun, not to mention the suckling pig. As for the Botin Hemingway angle, I could care less. We live near the Hemingway House in Key West so I have had enough of him, already. I'm also interested in the Museo Cerralbo, for a look at an aristocratic home and the personal collection of art and furnishings.
I am looking forward to your impressions of the Prado. Part of me wants to avoid that, having been a culture vulture in earlier decades and having spent a lot of time in wonderful, massive museums like the Met and the Louvre. But we'll see. Perhaps duck in at 6:15 pm for a freeby visit to see the Velasquez and then scoot.
Food: did you go to any of the Basque places in Madrid, like Txirimiri?
Your loyal readers await....
Jun 24th, 2015, 09:45 AM
#171
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EYWandBTV - I've really been enjoying Progol's report too.
We only have a short time in Madrid for our upcoming trip in Oct. We've have a loose plan, Not sure we’ll have time for everything so we will play it by ear.
Tour Palacio Real – for whatever reason, I am always in awe of these kinds of buildings, so this is a must
Do at least 1 of the major museums. Prado maybe?? If we don’t, it seems like it would be similar to going to Paris and not visiting the Louvre.
We'd also like to visit Museo Cerralbo if we can
Visit Retiro Park
Wander the main plazas and other districts, as we have time.
We’re also hoping to do a day trip to Segovia (We're visiting Toledo earlier in your trip for a couple of days)
See one Flamenco show. This isn't my DH’s favourite thing to do, but I think I can convince him to take in one show.
We hoping to spend a long evening around the Chueca district shopping, visiting Mercado San Anton and area for tapas, etc.
Our apartment is very near Calle Cava Baja so I have my long list of must try places for Tapas in the area. Txirimiri has been on my list for a while so I must have read or heard about it somewhere. I also have at least 1 or 2 other Basque type tapas places on my list.
We only have a short time in Madrid for our upcoming trip in Oct. We've have a loose plan, Not sure we’ll have time for everything so we will play it by ear.
Tour Palacio Real – for whatever reason, I am always in awe of these kinds of buildings, so this is a must
Do at least 1 of the major museums. Prado maybe?? If we don’t, it seems like it would be similar to going to Paris and not visiting the Louvre.
We'd also like to visit Museo Cerralbo if we can
Visit Retiro Park
Wander the main plazas and other districts, as we have time.
We’re also hoping to do a day trip to Segovia (We're visiting Toledo earlier in your trip for a couple of days)
See one Flamenco show. This isn't my DH’s favourite thing to do, but I think I can convince him to take in one show.
We hoping to spend a long evening around the Chueca district shopping, visiting Mercado San Anton and area for tapas, etc.
Our apartment is very near Calle Cava Baja so I have my long list of must try places for Tapas in the area. Txirimiri has been on my list for a while so I must have read or heard about it somewhere. I also have at least 1 or 2 other Basque type tapas places on my list.
Jun 24th, 2015, 09:53 AM
#172
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Progol - I'm enjoying your reports so much because you seem to have a similar travel style and I find your comments/perspective aligns with the info I like to know when planning a vacation.
I really understand your comments about Madrid being your last stop and the potential impact.
As I previously mentioned, Seville was our last stop of a 3 week vacation. We did enjoyed Seville but but we were a little "traveled out" by that time and it did put a bit of a damper on our experience there. If we can feel that way about a wonderful city like Seville, it does show that order of the places you visit can have an impact.
Looking forward to your final words on Madrid when you have the time!
I really understand your comments about Madrid being your last stop and the potential impact.
As I previously mentioned, Seville was our last stop of a 3 week vacation. We did enjoyed Seville but but we were a little "traveled out" by that time and it did put a bit of a damper on our experience there. If we can feel that way about a wonderful city like Seville, it does show that order of the places you visit can have an impact.
Looking forward to your final words on Madrid when you have the time!
Jun 24th, 2015, 07:29 PM
#174
I'm also enjoying your reports progol. Thanks for putting in the effort. Appreciate the honest reporting!
debinthepeg, we'll be in Madrid in October as well. I see the Royal Palace is a must for you. Just in case note that it appears the Palace will be closed early or fully on several days in October:
http://www.patrimonionacional.es/en/.../palacios/8280
debinthepeg, we'll be in Madrid in October as well. I see the Royal Palace is a must for you. Just in case note that it appears the Palace will be closed early or fully on several days in October:
http://www.patrimonionacional.es/en/.../palacios/8280
Jun 25th, 2015, 05:19 AM
#175
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debinthepeg,
<See one Flamenco show. This isn't my DH’s favourite thing to do, but I think I can convince him to take in one show.>
Casa Patas in the heart of Madrid has been the best tablao in all Spain in recent years. Just off central Plaza Santa Ana. An intimate and dark venue, and only top of the shelf artists perform here, many of whom tour the greatest theaters around the world all the time. Your husband might be in for a surprise ;-) : http://www.casapatas.com/Index.asp?idioma=in
Some clips from the past couple of years:
Fuensanta La Moneta, voted best female flamenco dancer 2009 by Spanish critics: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FbO_lw2xWtU
Pastora Galván, voted best female flamenco dancer 2010 by Spanish critics: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SY6Vy9tKW3U
Olga Pericet, voted best female flamenco dancer 2011 by Spanish critics: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=55waEsaBzjM
Fantastic and cutting edge Israel Galván, he has revolutionized male flamenco dance during the past decade: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VL9Wav9v7Jc
Estrella Morente, now the world's most famous cantaora (female flamenco singer): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sejSYMSQDZo
<See one Flamenco show. This isn't my DH’s favourite thing to do, but I think I can convince him to take in one show.>
Casa Patas in the heart of Madrid has been the best tablao in all Spain in recent years. Just off central Plaza Santa Ana. An intimate and dark venue, and only top of the shelf artists perform here, many of whom tour the greatest theaters around the world all the time. Your husband might be in for a surprise ;-) : http://www.casapatas.com/Index.asp?idioma=in
Some clips from the past couple of years:
Fuensanta La Moneta, voted best female flamenco dancer 2009 by Spanish critics: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FbO_lw2xWtU
Pastora Galván, voted best female flamenco dancer 2010 by Spanish critics: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SY6Vy9tKW3U
Olga Pericet, voted best female flamenco dancer 2011 by Spanish critics: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=55waEsaBzjM
Fantastic and cutting edge Israel Galván, he has revolutionized male flamenco dance during the past decade: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VL9Wav9v7Jc
Estrella Morente, now the world's most famous cantaora (female flamenco singer): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sejSYMSQDZo
Jun 25th, 2015, 06:00 AM
#176
Original Poster
kimhe,
I so wanted to go to Casa Patas, but after 4 shows in Sevilla and in Granada -- which he did enjoy! -- he didn't want to see anymore. So something to plan for the next time!
debinthepeg,
I'm really pleased that you are enjoying the trip report and get so much from it; I agree, I think our styles are similar, and it's great to find someone who "matches" well.
I also agree that 2 weeks is very different than 3 weeks, and I would imagine that you'll have plenty of energy at the end for Madrid, especially if you're planning it in advance. I think I said that my planning for Madrid really was limited as the focus was on Andalucia and I know us -- we tend to slow down toward the end of a long trip.
I so wanted to go to Casa Patas, but after 4 shows in Sevilla and in Granada -- which he did enjoy! -- he didn't want to see anymore. So something to plan for the next time!
debinthepeg,
I'm really pleased that you are enjoying the trip report and get so much from it; I agree, I think our styles are similar, and it's great to find someone who "matches" well.
I also agree that 2 weeks is very different than 3 weeks, and I would imagine that you'll have plenty of energy at the end for Madrid, especially if you're planning it in advance. I think I said that my planning for Madrid really was limited as the focus was on Andalucia and I know us -- we tend to slow down toward the end of a long trip.
Jun 25th, 2015, 06:16 AM
#177
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Thanks for the additional info.
Danon - thanks for the different perspective. I think we'll still plan to shop on Calle Fuencarral one evening and then head over Chueca to at least eat at Mercado San Anton. After that, if there's not much else to see in Chueca, we'll have a back up plan and head elsewhere.
Nelson - yes, I had read a post a while back that someone went to visit the palace, only to find it not open to the public. I have been watching the dates for our trip. So far, we're ok as we're in Madrid Oct 18 - 22.
Kimhe - I know I will get my DH to one show, so I wanted to pick the best possible venue. I've read your numerous responses to others and Casa Patas is the venue I have in my notes, based on your wonderful advice.
Danon - thanks for the different perspective. I think we'll still plan to shop on Calle Fuencarral one evening and then head over Chueca to at least eat at Mercado San Anton. After that, if there's not much else to see in Chueca, we'll have a back up plan and head elsewhere.
Nelson - yes, I had read a post a while back that someone went to visit the palace, only to find it not open to the public. I have been watching the dates for our trip. So far, we're ok as we're in Madrid Oct 18 - 22.
Kimhe - I know I will get my DH to one show, so I wanted to pick the best possible venue. I've read your numerous responses to others and Casa Patas is the venue I have in my notes, based on your wonderful advice.
Jun 25th, 2015, 06:32 AM
#178
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Thanks, progol, still following. I'm in the love rather than like Madrid camp, possibly we stayed in the lowrise, cobblestone, design-oriented Conde Duque area, close enough to the top sights, but off the tourist trail.
debinthepeg, Mercado San Anton is not to be missed. Smaller but arguably more cool than San Miguel.
debinthepeg, Mercado San Anton is not to be missed. Smaller but arguably more cool than San Miguel.
Jun 25th, 2015, 03:24 PM
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<after 4 shows in Sevilla and in Granada -- which he did enjoy! -- he didn't want to see anymore. So something to plan for the next time!>
It's very understandable to get a flamenco overload after four nights in three weeks, but just as easily it turns into something that makes the fifth night the most natural thing in the world ;-)
debinthepeg,
Regarding your DH's very understandable low enthusiasm, given the reputation of touristy flamenco shows: Here's a telling entry by the #1 flamenco blogger and connoisseur in the US Brook Zern: Flamenco can be powerful far beyond the happy and romantic stereotype image of the "beauty" with flowers in her hair. The "real deal" could be a fundamentally down to earth and emotional experience out of humour, "convivencia" or despair: http://www.flamencoexperience.com/blog/?cat=191
Three examples of flamenco today at its finest:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jOjtXiPl8Rk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=632-AtbOjvE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5-jNDBUZ_So
It's very understandable to get a flamenco overload after four nights in three weeks, but just as easily it turns into something that makes the fifth night the most natural thing in the world ;-)
debinthepeg,
Regarding your DH's very understandable low enthusiasm, given the reputation of touristy flamenco shows: Here's a telling entry by the #1 flamenco blogger and connoisseur in the US Brook Zern: Flamenco can be powerful far beyond the happy and romantic stereotype image of the "beauty" with flowers in her hair. The "real deal" could be a fundamentally down to earth and emotional experience out of humour, "convivencia" or despair: http://www.flamencoexperience.com/blog/?cat=191
Three examples of flamenco today at its finest:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jOjtXiPl8Rk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=632-AtbOjvE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5-jNDBUZ_So
