Espagne, Olé! Ancient to modern, through Andalucia, Toledo and Madrid
Jun 12th, 2015, 03:06 PM
#141
Original Poster
Monday may 18 -- At last, we see the sea!
Up at an early hour (for us), we have coffee and bread/croissant at the hotel, and we finish packing. We are off to Malaga today. Raquel completes the check out and gets the car for us, recommending the best way to get to Malaga from Ronda. We are impressed with the staff here – very welcoming and helpful.
Just as we are waiting for the car, I hear a procession (which we are told about because of the impact it will have on our driving out of the city), and I run out to see a bull pulling a very decorated float with flamenco dancers walking behind. This is a town that likes its parties -- or just likes to dress up!
Programming the iPhone Google maps app is amazing. It's not always perfect, but it does a great job most of the time, and it certainly has led us through some difficult spots.
We were able to leave Ronda easily and our arrival in Malaga was also simple -- until we tried to find Avis to return the car. After driving around the station a couple of times, M. entered another auto agency and was directed to the Avis office in the train station proper. He was then told to drive it into the underground garage, where we met the agent; the return went off without a hitch.
Taxi into the city -- a harder transition again. This is a larger, more urban city with a lively downtown, but not a quaint one. We are staying in the Hotel Don Curro, a moderate business-style hotel in a great location downtown.
Our energy is also flagging a bit by this point in the trip so neither of us has quite the drive to see every sight or explore every nook and cranny of the city, but after settling in to the hotel, we took a good walk around the immediate area. Nearby is the Calle Marques de Larios, a large pedestrian area, filled with many high end shops and nearby, another couple of streets filled with restaurants.
We also explored the Mercado Central Atarazanas, a great market filled with lots of seafood, spices, dried fruits and nuts, olives and seeing these displays makes me think that North Africa really is not that far away!
We continued our meander and found the location of the Alcazar & Roman theater and the cathedral. Tomorrow, we’ll tour, but today, we are just getting a feel for the city.
After our afternoon siesta, we took a long and enjoyable stroll through the park area along the port, then the port walkway, and to La Malagueta, the city beach. For a city beach, it's surprisingly user friendly and attractive, and we sat for a while and soaked in the sun.
For dinner, I had researched restaurants and several sources had noted a place called called Taberna Uvedoble, a tiny place on Calle Cister, very near the Cathedral. It took a while to find it, and though opening hours said it opened at 8:00pm (20:00), when we arrived around 8:15 or so, the waiter was still setting up. He gruffly told us to return in a half hour.
We walked around the street and discovered a small bakery/sweet shop and had a delicious little pastry called a pionono (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pionono).
At last, back to the restaurant and we sit outside. A few people are already served and soon after we arrive, more people come by, and quickly, it is pretty busy. We ordered 5 dishes -- all the dishes are good to excellent, but the service was lacking. The sullen waiter definitely diminished the pleasure. The food was quite good, though, and another server might improve the experience! We had cod with potato with mayonnaise sauce; squid on black noodles (a signature dish, though not our favorite); shrimp roll; swordfish ceviche; and the best was the mini-pizza with goat cheese.
After dinner, I searched for Hermanos Roldan for ice cream that ekscrunchy had extolled in her writings, and I sang its praises to M. as we walked to Calle Especeria. Well, we walked up and down the street multiple times, and, if it’s still there, we couldn’t find it. Jonesing for ice cream now, we found another place serving that had terrific ice cream along Calle Marques de Larios, and we each have a scoop of turron, which is heavenly.
Up at an early hour (for us), we have coffee and bread/croissant at the hotel, and we finish packing. We are off to Malaga today. Raquel completes the check out and gets the car for us, recommending the best way to get to Malaga from Ronda. We are impressed with the staff here – very welcoming and helpful.
Just as we are waiting for the car, I hear a procession (which we are told about because of the impact it will have on our driving out of the city), and I run out to see a bull pulling a very decorated float with flamenco dancers walking behind. This is a town that likes its parties -- or just likes to dress up!
Programming the iPhone Google maps app is amazing. It's not always perfect, but it does a great job most of the time, and it certainly has led us through some difficult spots.
We were able to leave Ronda easily and our arrival in Malaga was also simple -- until we tried to find Avis to return the car. After driving around the station a couple of times, M. entered another auto agency and was directed to the Avis office in the train station proper. He was then told to drive it into the underground garage, where we met the agent; the return went off without a hitch.
Taxi into the city -- a harder transition again. This is a larger, more urban city with a lively downtown, but not a quaint one. We are staying in the Hotel Don Curro, a moderate business-style hotel in a great location downtown.
Our energy is also flagging a bit by this point in the trip so neither of us has quite the drive to see every sight or explore every nook and cranny of the city, but after settling in to the hotel, we took a good walk around the immediate area. Nearby is the Calle Marques de Larios, a large pedestrian area, filled with many high end shops and nearby, another couple of streets filled with restaurants.
We also explored the Mercado Central Atarazanas, a great market filled with lots of seafood, spices, dried fruits and nuts, olives and seeing these displays makes me think that North Africa really is not that far away!
We continued our meander and found the location of the Alcazar & Roman theater and the cathedral. Tomorrow, we’ll tour, but today, we are just getting a feel for the city.
After our afternoon siesta, we took a long and enjoyable stroll through the park area along the port, then the port walkway, and to La Malagueta, the city beach. For a city beach, it's surprisingly user friendly and attractive, and we sat for a while and soaked in the sun.
For dinner, I had researched restaurants and several sources had noted a place called called Taberna Uvedoble, a tiny place on Calle Cister, very near the Cathedral. It took a while to find it, and though opening hours said it opened at 8:00pm (20:00), when we arrived around 8:15 or so, the waiter was still setting up. He gruffly told us to return in a half hour.
We walked around the street and discovered a small bakery/sweet shop and had a delicious little pastry called a pionono (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pionono).
At last, back to the restaurant and we sit outside. A few people are already served and soon after we arrive, more people come by, and quickly, it is pretty busy. We ordered 5 dishes -- all the dishes are good to excellent, but the service was lacking. The sullen waiter definitely diminished the pleasure. The food was quite good, though, and another server might improve the experience! We had cod with potato with mayonnaise sauce; squid on black noodles (a signature dish, though not our favorite); shrimp roll; swordfish ceviche; and the best was the mini-pizza with goat cheese.
After dinner, I searched for Hermanos Roldan for ice cream that ekscrunchy had extolled in her writings, and I sang its praises to M. as we walked to Calle Especeria. Well, we walked up and down the street multiple times, and, if it’s still there, we couldn’t find it. Jonesing for ice cream now, we found another place serving that had terrific ice cream along Calle Marques de Larios, and we each have a scoop of turron, which is heavenly.
Jun 13th, 2015, 02:45 AM
#143
Original Poster
I didn't mention it earlier, but I definitely wrote down a lot of ekscrunchy's recommendations. When an opportunity presented itself, I'd pull out my trusty list and see what she had written! Many of the tapas that we sampled in Sevilla are, for example, from ekscrunchy's list! We also tried one of her favorite tapas places in Malaga (soon to come).
In truth, we are not quite the serious foodies as many of the Fodorites here, so making serious efforts to find a place didn't always work. I almost made us both crazy by copying down lots of recommendations and trying to follow them up. A good killer of spontaneity, and sometimes the places don't meet expectations. So I found that I turned to the List far less than I'd initially planned, but found it helpful as a resource.
In truth, we are not quite the serious foodies as many of the Fodorites here, so making serious efforts to find a place didn't always work. I almost made us both crazy by copying down lots of recommendations and trying to follow them up. A good killer of spontaneity, and sometimes the places don't meet expectations. So I found that I turned to the List far less than I'd initially planned, but found it helpful as a resource.
Jun 13th, 2015, 04:15 AM
#144
Original Poster
May 19/Tuesday
A stellar day! The weather couldn't have been better -- bright sun, clear blue skies & temps in the 70s, low 80s. A perfect day!
First, the breakfast buffet at the hotel was great, with way too many options to eat. I had almond cake and an absolutely delicious melon and some cheese. This has been an eating trip like no other, and that seems to be a primary activity here! One interesting thing was noticing that the woman who was overseeing the table set up and clearing up had Down syndrome - a good reminder that these folks are other-abled, not disabled.
First, a brief foray at the Mercado Central Atarazanas to view the market in the early part of the day and pick up a few items. One of my favorite activities in any city is visiting the market and this is a wonderful one. I prefer this thriving, local market to the more gentrified versions that have become tourist destinations that we’ve seen elsewhere.
Off to the Picasso Museum! We have seen several museums now dedicated to Picasso and his work, and I thoroughly enjoyed this one, although M. found it disappointing as much of his stellar work is elsewhere and there wasn’t a clear organization to the presentation. There was a short film of him in the act of painting several different images, and watching this process was fascinating. I really enjoyed the museum - somehow the museum really did enhance my appreciation of his work. One of the surprises of this museum has nothing to do with Picasso, however; the museum is built over some Roman and Phoenician ruins that were discovered during the restoration of the building, and the ruins are well-displayed with a walkway through them.
We then went to the Alcazaba, first stopping to sit for a while at the top of the Roman theater steps. The Alcazaba was a terrific surprise, with great vistas of the city and the port from each tower or wall as we made our way up. There were a couple of charming gardens and then we arrived at the top, which was Moorish in style, mostly the arches although some fine carving and tile work, too. What a treat this place was! This was a Moorish castle and fortification complex with multiple layers of history and construction, and after seeing so many other wonderful structures on our trip, we were surprised how much we enjoyed this one.
Lunch was at a small cafe in one of the side streets – we had our usual ham and cheese sandwich, but the standout was the delicious batido of plantain and dulce de leche and the sandia sorbete (watermelon juice). The sorbet was a drink, by the way, and not an ice cream-like “sorbet”.
After that we strolled over to the Merced Square (kinda scruffy) and then searched out the tapas bar, Tapeo de Cervantes, which was on ekscrunchy’s list and where we were planning to go for supper.
After that long walk, we returned to the hotel for our usual afternoon siesta, stopping, of course, for an ice cream!
I know I mentioned it before, but by the time we got to Malaga, our energy for sights and museums had diminished so we truly did not “experience” all the city has to offer. There are certainly many good museums and galleries, and had we more time, we would’ve visited some of them. But we fully enjoyed the laid back coastal ambience, and spent a lot of time along the waterfront.
And, after our siesta, what else does one do when the sun is shining bright and the blue, and blue water calls? A boat ride, of course! We took a delightful harbor boat ride (not going out into the sea, the water was too choppy), and enjoyed the lazy tourists’ version of touring!
After the boat ride, we returned to Malagueta and sat by the beach, stopping for some fried squid at one of the small waterfront restaurants. The sun, the air, the blue sky and the water worked on us and soothed us.
After who knows how long, we finally took off for a good long walk to Tapeo de Cervantes. This is a very small tapas bar, very popular and lots of great reviews on TripAdvisor and elsewhere, and definitely an ekscrunchy recommendation. It was busy when we arrived around 8:00, but we were able to get a table immediately. Despite the crowds, we never felt rushed. The waiter was helpful, making recommendations, and the owner, too, was out and talking with the patrons, adding suggestions as well. We ate pulpo, tuna with puréed cauliflower, squid w/spinach, boletas mushrooms & asparagus, which were all very good to excellent, though honestly, we preferred the food at Taberna Uvedoble more. The service at Tapeo de Cervantes was far, far superior, and the overall ambience much more welcoming.
A beautiful day, relaxing and easy! Off to Madrid tomorrow!
A stellar day! The weather couldn't have been better -- bright sun, clear blue skies & temps in the 70s, low 80s. A perfect day!
First, the breakfast buffet at the hotel was great, with way too many options to eat. I had almond cake and an absolutely delicious melon and some cheese. This has been an eating trip like no other, and that seems to be a primary activity here! One interesting thing was noticing that the woman who was overseeing the table set up and clearing up had Down syndrome - a good reminder that these folks are other-abled, not disabled.
First, a brief foray at the Mercado Central Atarazanas to view the market in the early part of the day and pick up a few items. One of my favorite activities in any city is visiting the market and this is a wonderful one. I prefer this thriving, local market to the more gentrified versions that have become tourist destinations that we’ve seen elsewhere.
Off to the Picasso Museum! We have seen several museums now dedicated to Picasso and his work, and I thoroughly enjoyed this one, although M. found it disappointing as much of his stellar work is elsewhere and there wasn’t a clear organization to the presentation. There was a short film of him in the act of painting several different images, and watching this process was fascinating. I really enjoyed the museum - somehow the museum really did enhance my appreciation of his work. One of the surprises of this museum has nothing to do with Picasso, however; the museum is built over some Roman and Phoenician ruins that were discovered during the restoration of the building, and the ruins are well-displayed with a walkway through them.
We then went to the Alcazaba, first stopping to sit for a while at the top of the Roman theater steps. The Alcazaba was a terrific surprise, with great vistas of the city and the port from each tower or wall as we made our way up. There were a couple of charming gardens and then we arrived at the top, which was Moorish in style, mostly the arches although some fine carving and tile work, too. What a treat this place was! This was a Moorish castle and fortification complex with multiple layers of history and construction, and after seeing so many other wonderful structures on our trip, we were surprised how much we enjoyed this one.
Lunch was at a small cafe in one of the side streets – we had our usual ham and cheese sandwich, but the standout was the delicious batido of plantain and dulce de leche and the sandia sorbete (watermelon juice). The sorbet was a drink, by the way, and not an ice cream-like “sorbet”.
After that we strolled over to the Merced Square (kinda scruffy) and then searched out the tapas bar, Tapeo de Cervantes, which was on ekscrunchy’s list and where we were planning to go for supper.
After that long walk, we returned to the hotel for our usual afternoon siesta, stopping, of course, for an ice cream!
I know I mentioned it before, but by the time we got to Malaga, our energy for sights and museums had diminished so we truly did not “experience” all the city has to offer. There are certainly many good museums and galleries, and had we more time, we would’ve visited some of them. But we fully enjoyed the laid back coastal ambience, and spent a lot of time along the waterfront.
And, after our siesta, what else does one do when the sun is shining bright and the blue, and blue water calls? A boat ride, of course! We took a delightful harbor boat ride (not going out into the sea, the water was too choppy), and enjoyed the lazy tourists’ version of touring!
After the boat ride, we returned to Malagueta and sat by the beach, stopping for some fried squid at one of the small waterfront restaurants. The sun, the air, the blue sky and the water worked on us and soothed us.
After who knows how long, we finally took off for a good long walk to Tapeo de Cervantes. This is a very small tapas bar, very popular and lots of great reviews on TripAdvisor and elsewhere, and definitely an ekscrunchy recommendation. It was busy when we arrived around 8:00, but we were able to get a table immediately. Despite the crowds, we never felt rushed. The waiter was helpful, making recommendations, and the owner, too, was out and talking with the patrons, adding suggestions as well. We ate pulpo, tuna with puréed cauliflower, squid w/spinach, boletas mushrooms & asparagus, which were all very good to excellent, though honestly, we preferred the food at Taberna Uvedoble more. The service at Tapeo de Cervantes was far, far superior, and the overall ambience much more welcoming.
A beautiful day, relaxing and easy! Off to Madrid tomorrow!
Jun 13th, 2015, 05:34 AM
#145
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Another great report! Looking forward to Madrid.
I do know what you mean about the sights - so many spectacular sights in Spain but after a while it becomes sensory overload.
We felt the same way and we didn't even make it to Granada, Malaga and Madrid/Toledo/Segovia on our trip, but we were in Barcelona for 5 days. Unfortunately Seville was our last stop. We still visited everything we wanted to, but maybe with a little less enthusiasm.
We found Ronda to be a nice change of scenery in the middle of our trip.
We're ready now to continue our journey in Spain and visit Madrid, Toledo and Segovia in the fall.
Progol - if you have time I'd love to know how you found Spain overall compared to other European destinations you've visited. Just curious if it ranks up there with favourites or maybe somewhere in the middle, etc.
I do know what you mean about the sights - so many spectacular sights in Spain but after a while it becomes sensory overload.
We felt the same way and we didn't even make it to Granada, Malaga and Madrid/Toledo/Segovia on our trip, but we were in Barcelona for 5 days. Unfortunately Seville was our last stop. We still visited everything we wanted to, but maybe with a little less enthusiasm.
We found Ronda to be a nice change of scenery in the middle of our trip.
We're ready now to continue our journey in Spain and visit Madrid, Toledo and Segovia in the fall.
Progol - if you have time I'd love to know how you found Spain overall compared to other European destinations you've visited. Just curious if it ranks up there with favourites or maybe somewhere in the middle, etc.
Jun 13th, 2015, 06:37 AM
#146
Original Poster
<<if you have time I'd love to know how you found Spain overall compared to other European destinations you've visited. Just curious if it ranks up there with favourites or maybe somewhere in the middle, etc.>>
Interesting question, though it's so hard to compare the experiences. It's often the last-trip-is-the-best-trip! There are so many countries we haven't visited! We've been to France multiple times and have visited a greater number of regions, and France will always remain a first love. We've been to Italy twice and have seen Rome and north and want to go back to the south and see Sicily. Greece is fascinating, but it doesn't call as much. And, we did visit Barcelona before but this is really the first all-Spain trip we've taken and there's so much more to see!
What I can say, though, is that Spain surprised us and we loved our trip, and I'd put it right after France, at least right now! I'd go back in a heartbeat. There's something that resonated with us, even though we're not ones to stay up late. I'd love to visit the north and spend time in the Basque region. So yes, we loved Spain!
Hope this helps!
Interesting question, though it's so hard to compare the experiences. It's often the last-trip-is-the-best-trip! There are so many countries we haven't visited! We've been to France multiple times and have visited a greater number of regions, and France will always remain a first love. We've been to Italy twice and have seen Rome and north and want to go back to the south and see Sicily. Greece is fascinating, but it doesn't call as much. And, we did visit Barcelona before but this is really the first all-Spain trip we've taken and there's so much more to see!
What I can say, though, is that Spain surprised us and we loved our trip, and I'd put it right after France, at least right now! I'd go back in a heartbeat. There's something that resonated with us, even though we're not ones to stay up late. I'd love to visit the north and spend time in the Basque region. So yes, we loved Spain!
Hope this helps!
Jun 13th, 2015, 10:58 PM
#147
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<I do know what you mean about the sights - so many spectacular sights in Spain but after a while it becomes sensory overload>
Spain has so very much more to offer than the sights.
I've been many times in Cordoba and Sevilla the past twenty-five years but we have never managed to get into the Mezquita or the Sevilla cathedral etc etc. The Mezquita has almost turned into a principle...
Spain has so very much more to offer than the sights.
I've been many times in Cordoba and Sevilla the past twenty-five years but we have never managed to get into the Mezquita or the Sevilla cathedral etc etc. The Mezquita has almost turned into a principle...
Jun 14th, 2015, 01:35 AM
#148
Original Poster
<<but we have never managed to get into the Mezquita or the Sevilla cathedral etc etc. The Mezquita has almost turned into a principle...>>
kimhe, I hope you do get to the Mezquita someday! It's one of the most breathtaking places I've ever been -- it's an intimate and very emotional experience, very different than the Alhambra or Alcazar, and walking in hit us both to the core.
kimhe, I hope you do get to the Mezquita someday! It's one of the most breathtaking places I've ever been -- it's an intimate and very emotional experience, very different than the Alhambra or Alcazar, and walking in hit us both to the core.
Jun 14th, 2015, 01:52 AM
#149
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<I hope you do get to the Mezquita someday!>
I've been on the threshold to the Mezquita several times, but too many good vibes, wines, food and people have come in the way. That's what I travel for, and the Mezquita thing has turned into a standing joke ;-)
I've been on the threshold to the Mezquita several times, but too many good vibes, wines, food and people have come in the way. That's what I travel for, and the Mezquita thing has turned into a standing joke ;-)
Jun 14th, 2015, 02:12 AM
#150
Original Poster
<<I've been on the threshold to the Mezquita several times, but too many good vibes, wines, food and people have come in the way. >>
And you are very lucky to have the above! Just promise me, that someday, you'll try to get there! This place has soul!
And you are very lucky to have the above! Just promise me, that someday, you'll try to get there! This place has soul!
Jun 14th, 2015, 02:32 AM
#151
I now like to factor in a quiet, slow stop somewhere in my itinerary because of that 'sensory overload' experience where it is hard to do justice to another destination. Next year we will add another 4 days in tiny Mittenwald to the end of our holiday as we've been there before, know what to expect, how to get around... and just enjoy being there.
Jun 14th, 2015, 03:31 AM
#152
Original Poster
<<I now like to factor in a quiet, slow stop somewhere in my itinerary because of that 'sensory overload' experience where it is hard to do justice to another destination. >>
Wonderful plan to build it in. We also did the trip fairly slowly, at least compared to what we've done before, with those siestas in the afternoon and longer stays in cities that are often day stops for tourists (Cordoba, Ronda). Malaga worked out well that way, too, though I hadn't planned it that way.
Last, but not least, off to Madrid -- hopefully, I'll be finished with this TR in a few days!
Wonderful plan to build it in. We also did the trip fairly slowly, at least compared to what we've done before, with those siestas in the afternoon and longer stays in cities that are often day stops for tourists (Cordoba, Ronda). Malaga worked out well that way, too, though I hadn't planned it that way.
Last, but not least, off to Madrid -- hopefully, I'll be finished with this TR in a few days!
Jun 14th, 2015, 03:38 AM
#153
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Great trip report.
I am the person who had less than a wonderful experience at the Santa Isabel--and I think you more or less implied the reasons why it could not be good:
a) We probably had the worst room in the entire hotel
b) The weekend had families who camped outside our window until 3 am (smoking!) and the wonderful roof terrace was OVER our room. Think of reindeer in the Night Before Xmas.
I KNEW THIS SITUATION GOING IN, though. And I wanted to be in Toledo that weekend and I wanted to be there overnight.
So, hell hole that our room was (and I do not see how anyone can defend the hotel's breakfast), I liked the location and our actual stay in Toledo.
These facts remain:
Toledo at night after the tour groups leave is simply magical.
Toledo Cathedral in the earliest possible AM before the tour groups invade is equally so.
I am the person who had less than a wonderful experience at the Santa Isabel--and I think you more or less implied the reasons why it could not be good:
a) We probably had the worst room in the entire hotel
b) The weekend had families who camped outside our window until 3 am (smoking!) and the wonderful roof terrace was OVER our room. Think of reindeer in the Night Before Xmas.
I KNEW THIS SITUATION GOING IN, though. And I wanted to be in Toledo that weekend and I wanted to be there overnight.
So, hell hole that our room was (and I do not see how anyone can defend the hotel's breakfast), I liked the location and our actual stay in Toledo.
These facts remain:
Toledo at night after the tour groups leave is simply magical.
Toledo Cathedral in the earliest possible AM before the tour groups invade is equally so.
Jun 14th, 2015, 03:45 AM
#154
Yes, that's why I liked your itinerary. I like to get familiar with a place for a few days, rather than day trip, too.
And we have such a LONG HAUL to get anywhere, so always feeling a bit washed out despite the adrenalin rush when we arrive.... generally a 13.5hr flight, a 2 -3hr transit, then another 7.5 hr flight.
Always envy those people that describe their AWFUL 8hr long haul flight
And we have such a LONG HAUL to get anywhere, so always feeling a bit washed out despite the adrenalin rush when we arrive.... generally a 13.5hr flight, a 2 -3hr transit, then another 7.5 hr flight.
Always envy those people that describe their AWFUL 8hr long haul flight
Jun 14th, 2015, 03:57 AM
#155
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<This place has soul!>
Yes and no. Could be considered a barbarity to build a cathedral within the Mosque. King Carlos I (in Spain, Holy Roman Emperor Charles V to the rest of the world) obviously soon became aware of this himself. When he visited the completed cathedral he is said to have been very displeased with the result and famously commented, "they have taken something unique in all the world and destroyed it to build something you can find in any city". Now you don't find the Mezquita in any city, and the lasting preservation of the Mosque is noteworthy, but the creation of the Mosque-Cathedral is a part of a bigger and bloody story.
Carlos I was grandson of Isabella and Fernando, the so called Catholic Monarchs, who finalized the reconquista by the take of Granada a few decades earlier and subsequent expulsion of Muslims and Jews. The creation of the Cathedral within the Mosque in Cordoba from 1523 must be seen in the light of this, and should be understood together with the construction of both the massive and extremely powerful Cathedral in Granada (they obviously meant business) also from the 1520's as well as the same Carlos' building of a palace worthy a Holy Roman Emperor - very concious of the archictectural ideals of ancient Rome - up at the former Muslim Alhambra from 1527 on.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palace_of_Charles_V
When it comes to soulful places in Spain - and the country is full of them - my favourite is the peaceful Plaza de los Escribanos in front of the Real Colegiata de Santa María la Mayor, the first partly Renaissance-style church in Spain (built 1514-1550, at the same time as the cathedral in Cordoba). Next to the recently excavated Roman baths beneath and looking up on the 13th century Moorish alcazaba/fortress. Great views over unique landscapes, the spectacular Torcal limestone mountain, the Peña de los enamorados (Lover's leap) etc. http://www.wild-about-travel.com/201...ing-antequera/
http://www.andalucia.com/antequera/lovers-leap.htm
http://www.rondatoday.com/pena-de-lo...ock-antequera/
Yes and no. Could be considered a barbarity to build a cathedral within the Mosque. King Carlos I (in Spain, Holy Roman Emperor Charles V to the rest of the world) obviously soon became aware of this himself. When he visited the completed cathedral he is said to have been very displeased with the result and famously commented, "they have taken something unique in all the world and destroyed it to build something you can find in any city". Now you don't find the Mezquita in any city, and the lasting preservation of the Mosque is noteworthy, but the creation of the Mosque-Cathedral is a part of a bigger and bloody story.
Carlos I was grandson of Isabella and Fernando, the so called Catholic Monarchs, who finalized the reconquista by the take of Granada a few decades earlier and subsequent expulsion of Muslims and Jews. The creation of the Cathedral within the Mosque in Cordoba from 1523 must be seen in the light of this, and should be understood together with the construction of both the massive and extremely powerful Cathedral in Granada (they obviously meant business) also from the 1520's as well as the same Carlos' building of a palace worthy a Holy Roman Emperor - very concious of the archictectural ideals of ancient Rome - up at the former Muslim Alhambra from 1527 on.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palace_of_Charles_V
When it comes to soulful places in Spain - and the country is full of them - my favourite is the peaceful Plaza de los Escribanos in front of the Real Colegiata de Santa María la Mayor, the first partly Renaissance-style church in Spain (built 1514-1550, at the same time as the cathedral in Cordoba). Next to the recently excavated Roman baths beneath and looking up on the 13th century Moorish alcazaba/fortress. Great views over unique landscapes, the spectacular Torcal limestone mountain, the Peña de los enamorados (Lover's leap) etc. http://www.wild-about-travel.com/201...ing-antequera/
http://www.andalucia.com/antequera/lovers-leap.htm
http://www.rondatoday.com/pena-de-lo...ock-antequera/
Jun 14th, 2015, 04:03 AM
#156
Original Poster
AZ,
Thanks for the nice comments about my trip report; I'm glad you're enjoying them.
I truly hope you don't think I'm questioning your experience, as it certainly was your report that I was referencing. I just wanted to make sure to write about how different our experience of the hotel was. Clearly, you had a bad room but you were also there during Semana Santa, which must've been a madhouse. And I can't imagine how awful that was to have people tromping around over your head half the night.
Our own experience was so different as to be a different hotel! Honestly, had I read your report before I booked Santa Isabel, I probably would not have done so. I was tempted to cancel but it was too close to the day we left and I decided to stick with my original plan. As it turned out, it was a lovely surprise -- a charming hotel and very quiet! Clearly, the timing makes all the difference!
I believe you also mentioned that the WiFi connection was poor -- again, perhaps in your room (that room must've been awful!), because ironically, it was one of the better connections we had in our trip.
On breakfast - I'm not defending or complaining about it, but all we want first thing is cafe con leche and tostada. I resented the hotels that have huge spread but charge 12 euros for them. We usually went out for this, but on the day we left, we had exactly that at the hotel and it was sufficient for our needs.
Again, our experience at the hotel was so very different that I thought it helpful to post another perspective.
Thanks for the nice comments about my trip report; I'm glad you're enjoying them.
I truly hope you don't think I'm questioning your experience, as it certainly was your report that I was referencing. I just wanted to make sure to write about how different our experience of the hotel was. Clearly, you had a bad room but you were also there during Semana Santa, which must've been a madhouse. And I can't imagine how awful that was to have people tromping around over your head half the night.
Our own experience was so different as to be a different hotel! Honestly, had I read your report before I booked Santa Isabel, I probably would not have done so. I was tempted to cancel but it was too close to the day we left and I decided to stick with my original plan. As it turned out, it was a lovely surprise -- a charming hotel and very quiet! Clearly, the timing makes all the difference!
I believe you also mentioned that the WiFi connection was poor -- again, perhaps in your room (that room must've been awful!), because ironically, it was one of the better connections we had in our trip.
On breakfast - I'm not defending or complaining about it, but all we want first thing is cafe con leche and tostada. I resented the hotels that have huge spread but charge 12 euros for them. We usually went out for this, but on the day we left, we had exactly that at the hotel and it was sufficient for our needs.
Again, our experience at the hotel was so very different that I thought it helpful to post another perspective.
Jun 14th, 2015, 07:19 AM
#157
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Progol - thanks for the comparison of Spain to the other destinations you've visited. Unfortunately, we haven't seen as much of Europe as we'd like to. We're at the unique time in our lives now though (early 50's, healthy, my parents are still healthy, kids are grown up and independent and we don't have grand children yet - lol) and we'd like to take advantage and travel as much as we can. I'm always interested in others feedback as we start to think about our next destinations.
We've only been to Croatia, the French Riviera and Spain. We chose to return to Spain, mostly because of a great flight deal to Madrid, which we had to drop from our last trip because of time. We're also including a week in Sicily this trip and know we'll just get a taste of one part of the island. I'm sure we'll get to more destinations in Italy some day soon.
And, I'm already thinking about how we can manage to stay up late and get the full experience of Madrid.
We've only been to Croatia, the French Riviera and Spain. We chose to return to Spain, mostly because of a great flight deal to Madrid, which we had to drop from our last trip because of time. We're also including a week in Sicily this trip and know we'll just get a taste of one part of the island. I'm sure we'll get to more destinations in Italy some day soon.
And, I'm already thinking about how we can manage to stay up late and get the full experience of Madrid.
Jun 14th, 2015, 08:19 AM
#158
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progol--Oh, no--believe me, I truly understood what you were trying to say about the Santa Isabel. No problem at all with me. We got to pass other rooms in the hotel and saw the ones that would have been lovely, and goodness knows, we did like the location.
And what was even better was that holiday or not, the price for our crappy room there was so low that we did not feel we had "wasted" our money by leaving in the afternoon instead of waiting until the next morning. In fact, I repeat our leaving then actually worked out great for us because it gave us more than enough time to study the cathedral all morning and then come back to leisurely shower and pack.
Rooms like yours simply were not open to us at that time of year, even though we had booked months and months in advance. And our room situation certainly could have been worse. Supposedly there's some subterranean room that's pretty awful, too.
I think had we waited until one or two nights before, we might have had a better shot at one of the better rooms. I know twice we've lucked out with great rooms during Mardi Gras in New Orleans that way because of last-minute cancellations.
And what was even better was that holiday or not, the price for our crappy room there was so low that we did not feel we had "wasted" our money by leaving in the afternoon instead of waiting until the next morning. In fact, I repeat our leaving then actually worked out great for us because it gave us more than enough time to study the cathedral all morning and then come back to leisurely shower and pack.
Rooms like yours simply were not open to us at that time of year, even though we had booked months and months in advance. And our room situation certainly could have been worse. Supposedly there's some subterranean room that's pretty awful, too.
I think had we waited until one or two nights before, we might have had a better shot at one of the better rooms. I know twice we've lucked out with great rooms during Mardi Gras in New Orleans that way because of last-minute cancellations.
Jun 15th, 2015, 02:42 AM
#159
Original Poster
Adelaidean - Glad you like the itinerary; I was pleased with it and am glad we had time in each place, even as we saw a number of different places. I do know what you mean about the long haul, though. The last 2 trips have been to India and to SE Asia, and believe me, flying to & from Spain was a piece of cake after those trips!
kimhe - I'd like to write more but I'm running late for work. I completely agree with the quote, "they have taken something unique in all the world and destroyed it to build something you can find in any city". The Mestiza is, in effect, 2 separate buildings, and in one half of it, it's pretty much only the stunning arches. We went first thing in the morning, and, in the silence, that space was just mind blowing! We felt the same way when we returned. I hope that someday you do get there!
deb -you've been to some places we haven't been to and sounds like you'll be seeing wonderful places! Making choices is always difficult, but when you actually make the trip, it's the place you are seeing. Whatever it is, it's going to be great. And I'd love to go back to Spain, too.
AlessandraZoe - glad to hear that you understood my point. And to add, our very comfortable room, with (partial) views of the cathedral, was a bank-busting 55 euros/night!
Soon, soon, soon.....Madrid! Haven't had time to finish but am hoping to do so this week.
kimhe - I'd like to write more but I'm running late for work. I completely agree with the quote, "they have taken something unique in all the world and destroyed it to build something you can find in any city". The Mestiza is, in effect, 2 separate buildings, and in one half of it, it's pretty much only the stunning arches. We went first thing in the morning, and, in the silence, that space was just mind blowing! We felt the same way when we returned. I hope that someday you do get there!
deb -you've been to some places we haven't been to and sounds like you'll be seeing wonderful places! Making choices is always difficult, but when you actually make the trip, it's the place you are seeing. Whatever it is, it's going to be great. And I'd love to go back to Spain, too.
AlessandraZoe - glad to hear that you understood my point. And to add, our very comfortable room, with (partial) views of the cathedral, was a bank-busting 55 euros/night!
Soon, soon, soon.....Madrid! Haven't had time to finish but am hoping to do so this week.
