Espagne, Olé! Ancient to modern, through Andalucia, Toledo and Madrid
Jun 5th, 2015, 06:46 AM
#86
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Okay - I've caught up. Loving the report, reliving the nuances and cool moments of our trip. So glad you were as taken with Casa de la Memoria as we were. A trip highlight for us. Also, Casa de Pilatos is one of those great travel secrets. Had the place to ourselves, unlike the Alcazar, which was overrun with tourists with selfie sticks.
You made me feel better about missing the patio tour, but I have been googling Córdoba patios for inspiration for updating our courtyard.
We had originally booked at Ladrón de Agua but switched when we were able to get parking and the full Alhambra view at Morisco. But sorry we missed that sweet cocktail hour.
Adelante!
You made me feel better about missing the patio tour, but I have been googling Córdoba patios for inspiration for updating our courtyard.
We had originally booked at Ladrón de Agua but switched when we were able to get parking and the full Alhambra view at Morisco. But sorry we missed that sweet cocktail hour.
Adelante!
Jun 5th, 2015, 03:04 PM
#88
Original Poster
crosscheck - I'm glad you're enjoying the report and that it's bringing back good memories. Funny that Casa de Pilatos is such a secret -- thanks to Fodors, it was on my priority list, and I'm so glad it was. Such a lovely place, and though it was hardly empty when we were there, it wasn't overrun. As far as the Patio Festival goes, we are true urbanites, with a city lover's perspective of gardens, so a few crowded patios go a long way for us.
yestravel, no apologies for the rant! I'm right there with you, ranting away! I can't stand them, either, and have also said that they should be banned. So intrusive in so many ways.
Working on the next bit, folks. Tomorrow I'll post a little more -- has been a busy, exhausting week at work.
yestravel, no apologies for the rant! I'm right there with you, ranting away! I can't stand them, either, and have also said that they should be banned. So intrusive in so many ways.
Working on the next bit, folks. Tomorrow I'll post a little more -- has been a busy, exhausting week at work.
Jun 5th, 2015, 04:02 PM
#89
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I just tagged along on Mr. C's work trip to Hong Kong, Seoul, Shanghai and Tokyo. Those cities, especially Seoul, have to be the selfie stick capitals of the universe. They were so ubiquitous that I began to find them amusing, rather than annoying. I think the solo selfie is more narcissistic. The stick enables a new twist on an age old group endeavor ("Excuse me, would you mind taking our photo?), but involves a crude invention rather than a bystander.
Jun 6th, 2015, 02:53 AM
#90
Original Poster
I have no problem with people wanting photos of themselves at tourist sites -- it's an age old desire to be seen in front of an iconic site. In the "old days", we used the self-timer on the camera, and I suppose you could call that an early selife technique. These days, M. sticks out his arm and takes a picture of the 2 of us. Not sophisticated, but these days that's not so important.
To me, the selfie stick is much more insistent -- it's about the space that one commands. And whether it's done solo or more, it's much more intrusive in one's shared space. Unlike a self-timer, the selfie-stick is immediate -- no effort required. And when you're in an already crowded place such as the Alhambra, and there are countless people taking photos with their selfie sticks, I find them more than annoying. But you are very right,cc, they are so ubiquitous that I'm afraid to admit that I do have to learn to live with them. I just hope that the major tourist sites begin to ban them as they are definitely becoming a very common sight
To me, the selfie stick is much more insistent -- it's about the space that one commands. And whether it's done solo or more, it's much more intrusive in one's shared space. Unlike a self-timer, the selfie-stick is immediate -- no effort required. And when you're in an already crowded place such as the Alhambra, and there are countless people taking photos with their selfie sticks, I find them more than annoying. But you are very right,cc, they are so ubiquitous that I'm afraid to admit that I do have to learn to live with them. I just hope that the major tourist sites begin to ban them as they are definitely becoming a very common sight
Jun 6th, 2015, 03:28 AM
#91
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Jun 6th, 2015, 04:01 AM
#92
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crosscheck - too funny! I hate to see what fashion and design will be created to accommodate this!
Back to Andalucia......
Thursday, May 14 - The Alhambra! And more!
We were up and out early for our 9:30am tickets and found our way to the bus stop to take the mini-bus to the Alhambra. It was the C-3, not the #30, which had been mentioned on a travel report. It’s a tiny bus, with standing room only for a few stops as it makes its way up the hill. We got off at the third Alhambra stop in order to enter the Justice Gate, and we were one of the first ones on line for our time slot. Michael was able to get some good coffee at one of the small machines, so,we were able to have our caffeine fix after all!
Before I go on to our actual visit, a few words about picking up the tickets. Very easy! When we arrived at our hotel yesterday, one of the first things I wanted to make sure was we got our tickets. We were directed to a bookstore a street or 2 beyond Plaza Nueva, which was no more than a 10-minute walk from our hotel. The staff at the store provide a map of the site and you put in your credit card (the one that you purchased the tickets with – very important!) and out spits the tickets. This is truly easy and not worth stressing over.
When we were directed to the bus stop, we were told that it was just beyond the bookstore. Even in our muddled morning state, it’s pretty easy to find the bus stop, not the least because you’ll see a group of people that look like tourists who are all standing around waiting for a bus!
Back to the visit…. the guards are quite serious about the timing of the tickets. If you have a ticket for 9:30am to enter the Nasrid Palaces (the Palacios Nazaries, you will not get in until that time. I heard people muttering under their breath (or not so subtly griping!) about getting let in early, but know that this does not happen! Get over it!
So at last, we got in and it is remarkable! The crowds, too, are remarkable, too, and I truly wanted to throttle some of the folks with selfie sticks, as they are definitely part of the fabric. After a few minutes of getting irritated with the crowds, I just let it go and focused on the actual experience.
The Nasrid Palaces are stunning, and I’m struck by the sense of airiness and lightness. The wall coverings are finely carved and, with the tile work, create a space that is both grand and intimate at the same time. And, of course, seeing the fountains and pools, filled with water, integral to the development of the complex. Seeing the Patio de los Leones (Courtyard of the Lions) was delightful. Having seen it in so many pictures, it was thrilling to actually stand there and see it (and take many of my own pictures to add to the collection, of course).
The temperature today was creeping up higher and higher (hitting a high around 40C later that day), and by the time we moved on to the Generalife, the gardens and summer palace and estate of the Nasrid Emirs, we were moving verrry slowly. Beautiful layout, with several small palaces, but here, it’s the patios with their pools of water and the gardens that are significant. The gardens were not in full bloom, but the sense of light and space was still palpable. Water dominates the landscape, in the many pools throughout the gardens and patios. And there were some lovely views looking back to the city from here.
We took a good and necessary lunch break at the Hotel America, sitting in its patio, finally having our coffee con leche, an egg sandwich and an almond cake. Good food and comfortable place to take a break.
After lunch, we returned to the site, first stopping, of course, in the gift shop, where I saw the pieces of marquetry on display. I looked, I admired, but didn’t buy – after seeing the label, “home made” and realizing I saw the same things in a gift shop below the hill and lower prices, I decided to pass on this.
We continued to the Alcazaba, a fortress and the oldest part of the Alhambra. Hold on to your ticket because you will need it to get into the site. We spent time walking the ramparts and towers, and taking in the views, and were impressed by what was once an important military construction.
Finally, we visited the Charles V Palace (Palacio de Carlos V), begun in 1527 and not finished till 1957!
It was a pleasant stroll down to the city from the site, walking through a wooded park area. Passing through the Puerta de las Granadas (the Gate of the Pomegranates), we arrived back in the city proper. After the gate, the street becomes Cuesta de Gomerez, and there are a few tourist shops, music stores, a hotel, and a flamenco place caught my eye as well. We then stopped by a guitar shop where the owner was playing some lovely flamenco on a guitar. Very lovely spontaneous concert! We walked further and ran into one of the couples that we had met at the sherry gathering at our hotel, and walked back to the hotel and spent a long time sitting with them in our hotel lounge area. Decision made to attend the flamenco show that evening at the little theater I had noticed earlier!
After a long siesta, we met them at Casa del Arte Flamenco. It was a great show! A tiny, intimate theater, we had great seats, and the performers were as passionate as we’ve seen. Perhaps because they are not as well known, the performers seemed even more welcoming to the audience than we felt at the shows we had attended in Sevilla. Highly recommend!
After the show, we walked and talked for such a long time that we ended up having dinner together at a nondescript place up the road along the River Darro where there are many restaurants, but we had a great time!
Back to Andalucia......
Thursday, May 14 - The Alhambra! And more!
We were up and out early for our 9:30am tickets and found our way to the bus stop to take the mini-bus to the Alhambra. It was the C-3, not the #30, which had been mentioned on a travel report. It’s a tiny bus, with standing room only for a few stops as it makes its way up the hill. We got off at the third Alhambra stop in order to enter the Justice Gate, and we were one of the first ones on line for our time slot. Michael was able to get some good coffee at one of the small machines, so,we were able to have our caffeine fix after all!
Before I go on to our actual visit, a few words about picking up the tickets. Very easy! When we arrived at our hotel yesterday, one of the first things I wanted to make sure was we got our tickets. We were directed to a bookstore a street or 2 beyond Plaza Nueva, which was no more than a 10-minute walk from our hotel. The staff at the store provide a map of the site and you put in your credit card (the one that you purchased the tickets with – very important!) and out spits the tickets. This is truly easy and not worth stressing over.
When we were directed to the bus stop, we were told that it was just beyond the bookstore. Even in our muddled morning state, it’s pretty easy to find the bus stop, not the least because you’ll see a group of people that look like tourists who are all standing around waiting for a bus!
Back to the visit…. the guards are quite serious about the timing of the tickets. If you have a ticket for 9:30am to enter the Nasrid Palaces (the Palacios Nazaries, you will not get in until that time. I heard people muttering under their breath (or not so subtly griping!) about getting let in early, but know that this does not happen! Get over it!
So at last, we got in and it is remarkable! The crowds, too, are remarkable, too, and I truly wanted to throttle some of the folks with selfie sticks, as they are definitely part of the fabric. After a few minutes of getting irritated with the crowds, I just let it go and focused on the actual experience.
The Nasrid Palaces are stunning, and I’m struck by the sense of airiness and lightness. The wall coverings are finely carved and, with the tile work, create a space that is both grand and intimate at the same time. And, of course, seeing the fountains and pools, filled with water, integral to the development of the complex. Seeing the Patio de los Leones (Courtyard of the Lions) was delightful. Having seen it in so many pictures, it was thrilling to actually stand there and see it (and take many of my own pictures to add to the collection, of course).
The temperature today was creeping up higher and higher (hitting a high around 40C later that day), and by the time we moved on to the Generalife, the gardens and summer palace and estate of the Nasrid Emirs, we were moving verrry slowly. Beautiful layout, with several small palaces, but here, it’s the patios with their pools of water and the gardens that are significant. The gardens were not in full bloom, but the sense of light and space was still palpable. Water dominates the landscape, in the many pools throughout the gardens and patios. And there were some lovely views looking back to the city from here.
We took a good and necessary lunch break at the Hotel America, sitting in its patio, finally having our coffee con leche, an egg sandwich and an almond cake. Good food and comfortable place to take a break.
After lunch, we returned to the site, first stopping, of course, in the gift shop, where I saw the pieces of marquetry on display. I looked, I admired, but didn’t buy – after seeing the label, “home made” and realizing I saw the same things in a gift shop below the hill and lower prices, I decided to pass on this.
We continued to the Alcazaba, a fortress and the oldest part of the Alhambra. Hold on to your ticket because you will need it to get into the site. We spent time walking the ramparts and towers, and taking in the views, and were impressed by what was once an important military construction.
Finally, we visited the Charles V Palace (Palacio de Carlos V), begun in 1527 and not finished till 1957!
It was a pleasant stroll down to the city from the site, walking through a wooded park area. Passing through the Puerta de las Granadas (the Gate of the Pomegranates), we arrived back in the city proper. After the gate, the street becomes Cuesta de Gomerez, and there are a few tourist shops, music stores, a hotel, and a flamenco place caught my eye as well. We then stopped by a guitar shop where the owner was playing some lovely flamenco on a guitar. Very lovely spontaneous concert! We walked further and ran into one of the couples that we had met at the sherry gathering at our hotel, and walked back to the hotel and spent a long time sitting with them in our hotel lounge area. Decision made to attend the flamenco show that evening at the little theater I had noticed earlier!
After a long siesta, we met them at Casa del Arte Flamenco. It was a great show! A tiny, intimate theater, we had great seats, and the performers were as passionate as we’ve seen. Perhaps because they are not as well known, the performers seemed even more welcoming to the audience than we felt at the shows we had attended in Sevilla. Highly recommend!
After the show, we walked and talked for such a long time that we ended up having dinner together at a nondescript place up the road along the River Darro where there are many restaurants, but we had a great time!
Jun 6th, 2015, 04:24 AM
#93
Original Poster
And, I meant to add, we did enjoy the Charles V Palace, but we did not spend a lot of time in the museum on the second floor. There are many rooms of paintings, and we were not in the mood to spend time trying to absorb it all. But we very much admired the structure of the palace.
For EYWandBTV - the idea of having tickets for both sessions sounds great, although we did find that we were able to see the site very comfortably in the time we were allotted. Even with our lunch break at Hotel America in the patio (comfortable space, service was on the slow side, but it wasn't too bad), we found ample time to see everything. Admittedly, we are not foodies, and may have a bit of a short attention span! And 40 degrees C will also limit one's tolerance for touring! Still, we did find that the time spent was ample. And we did return for a night visit, so we knew we would be back again.
For EYWandBTV - the idea of having tickets for both sessions sounds great, although we did find that we were able to see the site very comfortably in the time we were allotted. Even with our lunch break at Hotel America in the patio (comfortable space, service was on the slow side, but it wasn't too bad), we found ample time to see everything. Admittedly, we are not foodies, and may have a bit of a short attention span! And 40 degrees C will also limit one's tolerance for touring! Still, we did find that the time spent was ample. And we did return for a night visit, so we knew we would be back again.
Jun 6th, 2015, 04:50 AM
#95
You really hit some unseasonably hot weather. Flamenco is wonderful. Another reason to get back to Spain.
Love the shoes -- Now selfie shoes I would consider
The major museums are already banning them, one can hope that other tourist sites will follow.
Love the shoes -- Now selfie shoes I would consider
The major museums are already banning them, one can hope that other tourist sites will follow.
Jun 6th, 2015, 04:55 AM
#96
Original Poster
The heat really wasn't a big problem. We took it easy on the entire trip for a number of reasons and the weather was not that much of a factor. Lots of siestas made it manageable. Though the temps were high, the humidity wasn't. As the saying goes, "It ain't the heat, it's the humidity!"
The hottest day was the day we traveled from Córdoba to Granada, and much of the afternoon was spent on an air-conditioned bus!
The hottest day was the day we traveled from Córdoba to Granada, and much of the afternoon was spent on an air-conditioned bus!
Jun 6th, 2015, 05:28 AM
#97
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Casa del Arte Flamenco just opened its doors in 2013, and seems now to be THE venue for daily flamenco performances in Granada, thanks for putting it on my radar!
Only top of the shelf artists performing here also. One of the fastest rising stars on the current scene, local girl Patricia Guerrero, danced her regularly, at least in the beginning. Here she is Casa del Arte in 2013: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_k7SVgtj5z4
And here in Teatro Central during the last Bienal in Sevilla a few months ago: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NacCLcjuMFc
Only top of the shelf artists performing here also. One of the fastest rising stars on the current scene, local girl Patricia Guerrero, danced her regularly, at least in the beginning. Here she is Casa del Arte in 2013: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_k7SVgtj5z4
And here in Teatro Central during the last Bienal in Sevilla a few months ago: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NacCLcjuMFc
Jun 6th, 2015, 06:40 AM
#98
Original Poster
kimhe, I'm thrilled to help add to your awareness of flamenco places in Andalucia! Your posts have been such a source of help in my planning that it makes me feel good to be able to share that here, I have the names of the performers somewhere and will post them later. It'll be interesting to see if any have any notoriety. No matter, though, it was a wonderful show.
Jun 6th, 2015, 09:46 AM
#100
Original Poster
kimhe-
Dancers: Adrian Sanchez & Alba Heredia
Singer: Alfredo Tejada
"Al Toque": Rafael Habichuela
What exactly does "Al Toque" mean when it refers to flamenco? I hadn't noticed this term before. I assume that it's the guitarist, but not sure the actual meaning of the term.
Thanks, kimhe!
Dancers: Adrian Sanchez & Alba Heredia
Singer: Alfredo Tejada
"Al Toque": Rafael Habichuela
What exactly does "Al Toque" mean when it refers to flamenco? I hadn't noticed this term before. I assume that it's the guitarist, but not sure the actual meaning of the term.
Thanks, kimhe!
