Espagne, Olé! Ancient to modern, through Andalucia, Toledo and Madrid
Jun 2nd, 2015, 12:49 PM
#61
Still reading and appreciating. Thanks! Glad to hear the Mezquita is one of those places that lives up to billing.
Reading between the lines sounds like you found Cordoba, including meals, to be "good" but not "great". Maybe Seville is a hard act to follow?
Still seems like plenty to keep us busy for a few days, especially with a day trip to Madinat al-Zahra and Castillo de Almodóvar thrown in.
Glad to hear the choking episode was not much more than a scare.
Reading between the lines sounds like you found Cordoba, including meals, to be "good" but not "great". Maybe Seville is a hard act to follow?
Still seems like plenty to keep us busy for a few days, especially with a day trip to Madinat al-Zahra and Castillo de Almodóvar thrown in.
Glad to hear the choking episode was not much more than a scare.
Jun 2nd, 2015, 01:39 PM
#62
Original Poster
deb and Nelson,
Glad that you're following and appreciating this! As you both sensed, there was a letdown after Seville, and I definitely think that Seville was, as Nelson put it, a hard act to follow. But I will also say that we enjoyed it a lot, and it grew on us over the time we were there. I'm glad we did have the time to spend to get a good feeling for the city. Also, I think I was more aware of feeling a letdown than M, who was more able to just flow with the transition.My initial reactions were often, "this is nice, but not as nice as Seville".
Truthfully, t's not as beautiful a city as Seville is. Neither are any of the other cities that we visited, so again, it took time to get to know Cordoba a little better. I can only say that Seville is like the sexy lover, while Cordoba is your favorite older cousin!
Some other impressions, since you have brought it up...my sense (and this is without having any real knowledge) the economic downturn appeared more notable in Cordoba. The street we were on had more empty storefronts and it is certainly not as advanced with their tourist infrastructure as Seville (see my earlier comments about the tourist information kiosk).
And, impressions again - Seville is a young, vital and effervescent city. Cordoba feels (again, impressions only) more staid and more conservative. Not a bad thing, necessarily, but it just felt older and not as exciting. It's also the reason why I mentioned the order of my itinerary, and I think it is easier to go from Cordoba to Seville, rather than the other way around.
Again, I do think it's worth a few days and 3 nights is a very reasonable amount of time to spend. You really don't get the flavor of a place on a day trip.
I probably won't write today, but will try to write some more tomorrow. I've been working long hours (still at work now!).
Glad that you're following and appreciating this! As you both sensed, there was a letdown after Seville, and I definitely think that Seville was, as Nelson put it, a hard act to follow. But I will also say that we enjoyed it a lot, and it grew on us over the time we were there. I'm glad we did have the time to spend to get a good feeling for the city. Also, I think I was more aware of feeling a letdown than M, who was more able to just flow with the transition.My initial reactions were often, "this is nice, but not as nice as Seville".
Truthfully, t's not as beautiful a city as Seville is. Neither are any of the other cities that we visited, so again, it took time to get to know Cordoba a little better. I can only say that Seville is like the sexy lover, while Cordoba is your favorite older cousin!
Some other impressions, since you have brought it up...my sense (and this is without having any real knowledge) the economic downturn appeared more notable in Cordoba. The street we were on had more empty storefronts and it is certainly not as advanced with their tourist infrastructure as Seville (see my earlier comments about the tourist information kiosk).
And, impressions again - Seville is a young, vital and effervescent city. Cordoba feels (again, impressions only) more staid and more conservative. Not a bad thing, necessarily, but it just felt older and not as exciting. It's also the reason why I mentioned the order of my itinerary, and I think it is easier to go from Cordoba to Seville, rather than the other way around.
Again, I do think it's worth a few days and 3 nights is a very reasonable amount of time to spend. You really don't get the flavor of a place on a day trip.
I probably won't write today, but will try to write some more tomorrow. I've been working long hours (still at work now!).
Jun 2nd, 2015, 02:19 PM
#64
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Your comments about Cordoba and Seville reinforce the impressions I am getting just by "walking" via Google street view through the two cities. Cordoba looks almost like a Greek island village in some areas, all whitewashed little buildings, little squares. Seville seems razzle-dazzle and full of color. We shall see when we go this fall. Never been to Spain, until recently knew zip about the country, now am gorging myself on Lorca and histories of Ferdinand and Isabella, I figure that's a start. Our itinerary begins in Cordoba and ends in Seville, as far as Andalucia goes, then the final two nights in Madrid, so maybe we will get that sense of buildup which you imagine might be the case going from Cordoba to Seville.
I especially appreciate your impressions, comments about the feeling of places and sites. Of course we all see these things through our subjective lenses and chance occurrences can trigger certain favorable reactions to a town (a helpful encounter with a waiter, seeing a wedding party at the entrance to a church, etc.) Along these lines, there is an unintentionally hilarious review comment on Tripadvisor about Hotel Garden in Ravello, where we stayed, a truly magnificent cliffside view and all that--but the anonymous reviewer lambasted the hotel and gave it a poor rating, complaining that it was grey and rainy all during their stay in late fall!
I especially appreciate your impressions, comments about the feeling of places and sites. Of course we all see these things through our subjective lenses and chance occurrences can trigger certain favorable reactions to a town (a helpful encounter with a waiter, seeing a wedding party at the entrance to a church, etc.) Along these lines, there is an unintentionally hilarious review comment on Tripadvisor about Hotel Garden in Ravello, where we stayed, a truly magnificent cliffside view and all that--but the anonymous reviewer lambasted the hotel and gave it a poor rating, complaining that it was grey and rainy all during their stay in late fall!
Jun 2nd, 2015, 03:17 PM
#65
Original Poster
Thanks for your comments, EYWandBTV. It sounds like a good itinerary, and just from my own experience, it sounds like a good order. We were in Barcelona a few years back, but this was the first time we've been to SPAIN, if you know what I mean, and we both loved it. Individually, each city had something to offer, and it left a wonderful overall feeling about the country. Of course, there's more to see now.....
I didn't have the time to immerse myself in quite so much reading as you have done, but I did read a book I highly recommend called "The Ghosts of Spain: Travels Through Spain and Its Silent Past", by Giles Tremlett, about Spain post-Civil War, and the impact it has had on the country. He's a British journalist who married and settled in Spain, so he has an interesting perspective.
Just a few more thoughts about the choking scare... it really made me think, too, about the risks of renting an apartment, especially when you don't speak the language. In a hotel, you know you can go to the clerk, but what if you're on your own in an apartment at 3am and something happens? I did some research after that and found the equivalent to the US 9-1-1 (and what to do if you don't speak Spanish) and then I spoke with the host, but it did make me realize that a plan was needed if we are in an apartment.
Thanks all, for sharing your own thoughts and comments!
I didn't have the time to immerse myself in quite so much reading as you have done, but I did read a book I highly recommend called "The Ghosts of Spain: Travels Through Spain and Its Silent Past", by Giles Tremlett, about Spain post-Civil War, and the impact it has had on the country. He's a British journalist who married and settled in Spain, so he has an interesting perspective.
Just a few more thoughts about the choking scare... it really made me think, too, about the risks of renting an apartment, especially when you don't speak the language. In a hotel, you know you can go to the clerk, but what if you're on your own in an apartment at 3am and something happens? I did some research after that and found the equivalent to the US 9-1-1 (and what to do if you don't speak Spanish) and then I spoke with the host, but it did make me realize that a plan was needed if we are in an apartment.
Thanks all, for sharing your own thoughts and comments!
Jun 2nd, 2015, 04:51 PM
#66
Original Poster
Tuesday, May 12 – We are fortified! And chill out at the end of day.
A very slow start to the day as Michael was quite depleted after the night's episode. We had coffee on our lovely patio (cool and comfortable in the morning), where we relaxed for a while.
By 11:00, we finally went out! First, to the Alcazar, a good touring experience -- while the structure itself is not especially unique for its architectural style, the gardens are really beautiful, probably the best and most extensive we've seen so far. The view of Cordoba from the tower was also excellent and the room with Roman mosaics was also a treat. Despite tour groups, especially a large group of schoolchildren, we enjoyed the Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos a lot.
We then walked back through the Juderia, first stopping to get a photo of the Maimonedes statue, and then going on to La Sinagoga, one of the 3 remaining medieval synagogues in Spain. Built in 1315, it is a small space but very light and airy, with Mudejar style decoration and Hebrew lettering on the walls. Very little info is available, and there were a lot of tourist groups going in, so we were in and out relatively quickly. Still, I come away with a profound sense of the history of the place, and a deeper awareness of the Spanish Inquisition(s).
After that, we are back to the apartment for another siesta. As you see, we are covering a lot, but not at a killer pace. It made all the difference in our travels.
After a break, we explored another neighborhood, walking over to the Museo de Arceologico, a small gem of a museum. We spent some time reading and absorbing the history of Cordoba, spanning from pre-history to the late middle ages. Wonderful collection! Beautifully laid out and accessible. The museum is built over excavations of a Roman ampitheater and there is a walkway going through it. Very neat! We both were amazed at the quality of the museum exhibition – very interesting choice of objects (great display of early coins). An excellent museum!
And the flowers are everywhere! This city has flowers displayed in every nook and corner! There are flowers that just pour down the side of the building walls! There are flower pots and all kinds of displays hanging off walls, terraces, patios – you name it, there are flowers!
After that, we took some back streets down toward the plaza de Potro, an attractive square that has a statue of a colt (Potro). The walk took us through some charming streets, with small plazas here and there, and out through the ancient walls. This was a delightful meandering walk, as we started to get away from the main tourist center. On our way back, we passed yet another procession!
Dinner that evening was at our now-favorite Salon de The, where we had Chicken kebab (tender, sliced chicken, lightly spiced – simple and good) and mssaman de carne (a flatbread with meat inside- was okay) and for drinks, Michael ordered the granazita coco & I had the zumo sandia (watermelon). The drinks were delicious!
After dinner, we strolled through the streets. We decided to call it a night, then sat on our lovely terrace and enjoyed the evening view-- quite a special place with a gorgeous view of the cathedral and tower from our patio. A great way to end the visit.
A very slow start to the day as Michael was quite depleted after the night's episode. We had coffee on our lovely patio (cool and comfortable in the morning), where we relaxed for a while.
By 11:00, we finally went out! First, to the Alcazar, a good touring experience -- while the structure itself is not especially unique for its architectural style, the gardens are really beautiful, probably the best and most extensive we've seen so far. The view of Cordoba from the tower was also excellent and the room with Roman mosaics was also a treat. Despite tour groups, especially a large group of schoolchildren, we enjoyed the Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos a lot.
We then walked back through the Juderia, first stopping to get a photo of the Maimonedes statue, and then going on to La Sinagoga, one of the 3 remaining medieval synagogues in Spain. Built in 1315, it is a small space but very light and airy, with Mudejar style decoration and Hebrew lettering on the walls. Very little info is available, and there were a lot of tourist groups going in, so we were in and out relatively quickly. Still, I come away with a profound sense of the history of the place, and a deeper awareness of the Spanish Inquisition(s).
After that, we are back to the apartment for another siesta. As you see, we are covering a lot, but not at a killer pace. It made all the difference in our travels.
After a break, we explored another neighborhood, walking over to the Museo de Arceologico, a small gem of a museum. We spent some time reading and absorbing the history of Cordoba, spanning from pre-history to the late middle ages. Wonderful collection! Beautifully laid out and accessible. The museum is built over excavations of a Roman ampitheater and there is a walkway going through it. Very neat! We both were amazed at the quality of the museum exhibition – very interesting choice of objects (great display of early coins). An excellent museum!
And the flowers are everywhere! This city has flowers displayed in every nook and corner! There are flowers that just pour down the side of the building walls! There are flower pots and all kinds of displays hanging off walls, terraces, patios – you name it, there are flowers!
After that, we took some back streets down toward the plaza de Potro, an attractive square that has a statue of a colt (Potro). The walk took us through some charming streets, with small plazas here and there, and out through the ancient walls. This was a delightful meandering walk, as we started to get away from the main tourist center. On our way back, we passed yet another procession!
Dinner that evening was at our now-favorite Salon de The, where we had Chicken kebab (tender, sliced chicken, lightly spiced – simple and good) and mssaman de carne (a flatbread with meat inside- was okay) and for drinks, Michael ordered the granazita coco & I had the zumo sandia (watermelon). The drinks were delicious!
After dinner, we strolled through the streets. We decided to call it a night, then sat on our lovely terrace and enjoyed the evening view-- quite a special place with a gorgeous view of the cathedral and tower from our patio. A great way to end the visit.
Jun 3rd, 2015, 02:23 AM
#70
Original Poster
Wednesday, May 13 – The marvelous Mezquita, take 2, and a view of the amazing Alhambra!
On our final morning in Cordoba, we got up early to spend some more time in the Mezquita-cathedral. A good way to wrap up the visit and reflect on what we were so taken by the other day. We spent a little more time looking at the transition from the mosque to the cathedral and some of the interesting and odd juxtapositions. We are struck, once again, by its serenity and beauty.
Before returning to the apartment, we wandered over to the Dia supermarket and picked up bread, cheese and sausage, and ham for our trip. Tomas came by around 12:00 and we hung about the apartment for about an hour till we had to leave. Conversation ranged and included some discussion over many topics, including substance abuse (my field). He was very knowledgeable about world issues and history and he and M. did seem to share a lot. Finally, it’s time to leave the apartment – and this is also hard. What a sweet and comfortable place this is! From the moment we walked in, the apartment felt like “home”.
Tomas accompanied us to the taxi stand at the Plaza de las Tendillas. We stopped in one of the shops and he helped us put additional money on my phone as we had difficulty trying to understand the directions in Spanish. When we reached the taxi stand, he called to make sure there was a cab on the way. Eventually, and with a little sadness, it was time to say Adios!
A short cab ride later, we’re at the bus station, now heading to Granada. While waiting for the bus, M. begins chatting with a French couple sitting next to us. He is communicating in multiple languages! The bus ride was pretty amazing -- we rode through olive fields for almost the entire trip of nearly 2 1/2 hours! The temps were registering 40 C and I'm pretty sure that I saw it hit 41C when we arrived! Hacer calor! Hacer mucho calor!
From the Granada train station, we quickly get a cab to the hotel and Michael has a lovely conversation with our taxi driver in Spanish! I’m envying his ability to retain languages, as my Spanish is muy poquito, and though M has only a very basic knowledge, he is using it and it’s most definitely appreciated. Our taxi driver was a warm and open man, and it was a pleasure to watch them interact.
Our hotel, Ladron de Agua (The Water Thief), is certainly a more stylish place than we've been on this trip. It’s originally a16th C palace, mostly restored, so the interior patio space mimics the style of the original but in modern design. It’s a little bit stark, but the rooms are very comfortable and the location second to none.
Our room, Fuente La Molina, is very open, with a dark wooden ceiling, and a window with balcony overlooking the river and the Alhambra! Or at least a small piece of it ☺. From the small balcony, we overlook the Carrera del Darro and I love watching the activity below. And, we are only a short walk away from the Plaza Nueva.
At 7pm, we went to the hotel's sherry get together held nightly in the library. This was a wonderful extra provided, and it gives us a chance to socialize, a very welcome opportunity. We met an Australian couple, an English couple living in Australia, and then an English-Swiss couple, living in England. We spent a good couple of hours socializing before going to dinner.
Upon recommendation from the hotel (and I later realize it's on my list of Fodorite recommendations!) we ate at Ruta des Azafran, an excellent restaurant further up the Carrera del Darro. There is inside and outside seating here. Food and service was topnotch. We had a salad, a bisque-like seafood stew, and an excellent tuna with bitter soy sauce. Everything was delicious! Enjoyed dinner thoroughly and back to our room.
End of day 1 in Granada – and (pinch me, I can’t believe I’m really here) there’s the Alhambra above us, lit up in all her glory!
On our final morning in Cordoba, we got up early to spend some more time in the Mezquita-cathedral. A good way to wrap up the visit and reflect on what we were so taken by the other day. We spent a little more time looking at the transition from the mosque to the cathedral and some of the interesting and odd juxtapositions. We are struck, once again, by its serenity and beauty.
Before returning to the apartment, we wandered over to the Dia supermarket and picked up bread, cheese and sausage, and ham for our trip. Tomas came by around 12:00 and we hung about the apartment for about an hour till we had to leave. Conversation ranged and included some discussion over many topics, including substance abuse (my field). He was very knowledgeable about world issues and history and he and M. did seem to share a lot. Finally, it’s time to leave the apartment – and this is also hard. What a sweet and comfortable place this is! From the moment we walked in, the apartment felt like “home”.
Tomas accompanied us to the taxi stand at the Plaza de las Tendillas. We stopped in one of the shops and he helped us put additional money on my phone as we had difficulty trying to understand the directions in Spanish. When we reached the taxi stand, he called to make sure there was a cab on the way. Eventually, and with a little sadness, it was time to say Adios!
A short cab ride later, we’re at the bus station, now heading to Granada. While waiting for the bus, M. begins chatting with a French couple sitting next to us. He is communicating in multiple languages! The bus ride was pretty amazing -- we rode through olive fields for almost the entire trip of nearly 2 1/2 hours! The temps were registering 40 C and I'm pretty sure that I saw it hit 41C when we arrived! Hacer calor! Hacer mucho calor!
From the Granada train station, we quickly get a cab to the hotel and Michael has a lovely conversation with our taxi driver in Spanish! I’m envying his ability to retain languages, as my Spanish is muy poquito, and though M has only a very basic knowledge, he is using it and it’s most definitely appreciated. Our taxi driver was a warm and open man, and it was a pleasure to watch them interact.
Our hotel, Ladron de Agua (The Water Thief), is certainly a more stylish place than we've been on this trip. It’s originally a16th C palace, mostly restored, so the interior patio space mimics the style of the original but in modern design. It’s a little bit stark, but the rooms are very comfortable and the location second to none.
Our room, Fuente La Molina, is very open, with a dark wooden ceiling, and a window with balcony overlooking the river and the Alhambra! Or at least a small piece of it ☺. From the small balcony, we overlook the Carrera del Darro and I love watching the activity below. And, we are only a short walk away from the Plaza Nueva.
At 7pm, we went to the hotel's sherry get together held nightly in the library. This was a wonderful extra provided, and it gives us a chance to socialize, a very welcome opportunity. We met an Australian couple, an English couple living in Australia, and then an English-Swiss couple, living in England. We spent a good couple of hours socializing before going to dinner.
Upon recommendation from the hotel (and I later realize it's on my list of Fodorite recommendations!) we ate at Ruta des Azafran, an excellent restaurant further up the Carrera del Darro. There is inside and outside seating here. Food and service was topnotch. We had a salad, a bisque-like seafood stew, and an excellent tuna with bitter soy sauce. Everything was delicious! Enjoyed dinner thoroughly and back to our room.
End of day 1 in Granada – and (pinch me, I can’t believe I’m really here) there’s the Alhambra above us, lit up in all her glory!
Jun 3rd, 2015, 03:37 AM
#71
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Progol, thank you for getting up early on a workday and posting this at 6:23 am!
Re the bus from Cordoba to Granada--I just read somewhere that the train line between these two cities is being rebuilt and will not be completed until the end of 2015? Assuming that is why you took the bus? Was the bus ok? With WC? How long a trip was it? We love trains, they are so modern and comfortable most of the time so that's why I'm interested in these gritty details as we prepare for our trip this fall. I see that the ALSA bus company accepts Paypal for buying bus tickets on the internet in advance. Since there will be no train service between Cordoba and Granada in 2015, I'm assuming it's wise to get bus tickets much in advance to be sure of getting seats.
Thanks in advance, please keep posting, love it.
Re the bus from Cordoba to Granada--I just read somewhere that the train line between these two cities is being rebuilt and will not be completed until the end of 2015? Assuming that is why you took the bus? Was the bus ok? With WC? How long a trip was it? We love trains, they are so modern and comfortable most of the time so that's why I'm interested in these gritty details as we prepare for our trip this fall. I see that the ALSA bus company accepts Paypal for buying bus tickets on the internet in advance. Since there will be no train service between Cordoba and Granada in 2015, I'm assuming it's wise to get bus tickets much in advance to be sure of getting seats.
Thanks in advance, please keep posting, love it.
Jun 3rd, 2015, 04:36 AM
#72
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EYWandBTV
Toilets on most long distance ALSA buses: https://www.alsa.es/en/alsa-experien...rney/our-fleet
Toilets on most long distance ALSA buses: https://www.alsa.es/en/alsa-experien...rney/our-fleet
Jun 3rd, 2015, 06:47 AM
#73
Original Poster
Yes, I booked the bus when I read that the Granada train station was closed. It's a good idea to book in advance as the buses to sell out, though there are several buses a day.
The bus ride from Cordoba to Granada was very comfortable; good seats, good a/c (a necessity with temps at 40F!), and they even gave each person a bottle of water and a packaged pastry. No problems with the bus ride at all.
If you're sensitive to motion, know that it's a hilly ride. I took a motion sickness medication to be on the safe side and I was fine.
The bus ride from Cordoba to Granada was very comfortable; good seats, good a/c (a necessity with temps at 40F!), and they even gave each person a bottle of water and a packaged pastry. No problems with the bus ride at all.
If you're sensitive to motion, know that it's a hilly ride. I took a motion sickness medication to be on the safe side and I was fine.
Jun 3rd, 2015, 09:35 AM
#76
Glad to hear the Alcazar also lived up to billing! My wife and I will probably spend a lot of time there. The other sites you visited on your May 12 day are also on our list. Thanks once again for sharing your impressions.
Looking forward to more on Granada. (BTW, for those following along for a future trip, I checked the Alhambra ticket site the other day, and September tix apparently went on sale on June 1.)
EYWandBTV: <i>"... reviewer lambasted the hotel and gave it a poor rating, complaining that it was grey and rainy all during their stay"</i>
Funny! Reminded me of the classic Fawlty Towers scene where Mrs. Richards complains about the view of Torquay from her room. Fawlty responds: That is the view of Torquay, you were expecting the Hanging Gardens of Babylon?
Looking forward to more on Granada. (BTW, for those following along for a future trip, I checked the Alhambra ticket site the other day, and September tix apparently went on sale on June 1.)
EYWandBTV: <i>"... reviewer lambasted the hotel and gave it a poor rating, complaining that it was grey and rainy all during their stay"</i>
Funny! Reminded me of the classic Fawlty Towers scene where Mrs. Richards complains about the view of Torquay from her room. Fawlty responds: That is the view of Torquay, you were expecting the Hanging Gardens of Babylon?
Jun 3rd, 2015, 02:42 PM
#78
Original Poster
EYWandBTV - glad that the bus info helps. While I prefer train travel -- and the RENFE system is terrific - the bus was absolutely fine. Greyhound should be so good!
yestravel, thank you for your nice comments! I feel the same way about Portugal and Sicily, thanks to you!
Nelson -- more to come! I've "arrived" in Granada, so this should be up within the next day or 2. Sadly, work has had to interfere with time spent writing! I did keep a daily journal on my iPad, which I'm copying and tweaking, but in the interest of getting on with my life, I may just cut and paste a a little more and tweak a little less! Anyway, glad that you're finding it helpful.
yestravel, thank you for your nice comments! I feel the same way about Portugal and Sicily, thanks to you!
Nelson -- more to come! I've "arrived" in Granada, so this should be up within the next day or 2. Sadly, work has had to interfere with time spent writing! I did keep a daily journal on my iPad, which I'm copying and tweaking, but in the interest of getting on with my life, I may just cut and paste a a little more and tweak a little less! Anyway, glad that you're finding it helpful.
