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Dublin Trip Report..the funny, the bad and the "why did I do this?"

Dublin Trip Report..the funny, the bad and the "why did I do this?"

Old Nov 7th, 2005, 07:14 AM
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Dublin Trip Report..the funny, the bad and the "why did I do this?"

This was truly one of the funniest/worst/most frustrating trips I have ever taken. As background, I am a 34 yr old single mom who travels domestically about 2-3 times/yr, usually twice by air for business and once or twice for a long weekend (driving) with my son, now 13. Usually we will pick a city, one or two things to do per day and see where the mood takes us. This was my first trip overseas but I still felt reasonably prepared. Oh how wrong I was
After much back and forth about different tour packages, and realizing that my son wasn't into the castles/cliffs/farms that I wanted,I decided to book a B&B for 4 nights in Dublin and explore the city (it was his birthday present after all).
We flew American 6:30pm out of JFK, and aside from monster traffic no problems. The check-in line was long, but we were waved over to First Class check-in (not sure why, maybe bc we only checked one bag) and it took 2 minutes. Personal note: The clerk asked what we were going to Dublin for. When I told her, she said "Aren't you a good sister to him." I replied "God bless you, but I'm his mother." She then scrutinized my passport for 30 seconds before checking us through - score one for Meg!
I can not say enough good things about American Airlines (for international - not a big fan domestic). The crew was wonderful, the food was not but they kept that drink cart coming. Absolutely smooth flight. Our seat recline buttons didn't work, and when I told the FA they apologized profusely, fixed it, then showed me the trick if that happens again (lift up the seat cushion and there is a button on the right side - push and recline).
Slept a bit, but not too much. About an hour before landing in Heathrow the FA's handed out snack boxes. Wheat Thins, butter, jelly, raisins and Fig Newtons. Kind a weird but staved off the hunger.
Arrived at Heathrow for connection to Dublin. Note: always allow at least 3 hrs to connect in Heathrow! Huge, huge, and half the motorized walkways don't work. Cleared Immigration and still felt like we walked for another 1/2 hr. The departures area felt like that old TV show Wings - maybe 8 or 10 seats per gate, just felt run-down.
Connected to BMI. Hour long flight, very narrow seats. Not allowed to bring on food or drink, only purchase from them.
Finally we arrive in Dublin, and I got teary eyed - being 3rd generation Irish. Or maybe it was the fact that I was exhausted from running through LHR haha.
Dublin Immigration was super - friendly and quick. After asking directions from 3 people for the ATM found it - out of order. Found another, made my way out and got a cab. Nice driver, but holy c*&^ - do they drive like maniacs!! We arrive at the B&B - and there is a For Sale sign out front. Hmm, maybe not a good sign...
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Old Nov 7th, 2005, 07:44 AM
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We arrive at the B&B around noon and ring the bell. No answer. Knock. No answer. Finally the door opens and the woman just looks at us. I introduce myself and Alex, explaing that we have reservations. We walk into the house - every door is closed downstairs, very dark. She shows us upstairs to a room at the front of the house - "Here's your key, here's your breakfast menu, I'll bring up towels" and disappears. My son passes out on the bed for 3 hrs. I unpack, watch TV, and look out the window. Wake up Alex to take a walk and we go about halfway to City Centre, stopping at a SPAR store (like 7-11) and a Domino's Pizza for food to take back to the room. Took several more walks up and down Upper Drumcondra Rd that afternoon (Wednesday) to try to get our bodies on Ireland time and scope out the neighborhood. Amazed at the level of graffiti - not gang symbols like in NJ/NY, but bathroom wall stuff - this one does this for this much, etc.
Turn in early and set the alarm for 8am, breakfast at 9. Thursday morning - fantastic breakfast. My son ordered the Full Irish, and now has a non-stop craving for Irish bacon. Boiled egg, toast, mushrooms, tomatoes, sausage and bacon. Cereal too. I had scrambled eggs, toast and tea. Then we set off to explore Dublin - cameras and guide books in jacket. If only I knew...
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Old Nov 7th, 2005, 08:38 AM
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Bravo! If we can't laugh at/with adversity, what can we laugh at? People always ask if I don't get bored, going back to Ireland, year after year. How could I? I, too, always plan and prepare, anticipating that everything will go smoothly. Rarely ever does it. It's why I love Ireland so much and doubtless, why I keep going back -- for the adventure.

"No battle plan ever survives first contact with the enemy."
Hope your over-all is favorable.
Bob
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Old Nov 7th, 2005, 08:49 AM
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Wait a minute...is that the end of your story? Don't know why you went through Heathrow if coming from JFK. Yes, I like AA pretty well. Well, I can imagine the travails of travel with a 13 year old! And he actually liked the Irish/English breakfast, surely not including the mushrooms, boiled tomatoes. So didn't you enjoy Dublin? Can you take a kid that age into a pub for the trad music I wonder?

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Old Nov 7th, 2005, 09:20 AM
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I am sure I drove by that B&B the other day. Even if they were selling it should not be a prob. Very profitable business on that road due to the proximity of getting to the airport. Was it Bad??? It's weird to hear people from another place describing my local Dominos . What happened in Dublin? I am so curious now.
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Old Nov 7th, 2005, 09:31 AM
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We're waiting for more. You've had over an hour to recuperate, after all.
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Old Nov 7th, 2005, 09:53 AM
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I'm back - had to run over to Dad's so he could take my son golfing, and of course left my journal at home. So here's the highlights-
Could not figure out the bus system til the last day! Thankfully had the Rambler pass so didn't matter if we missed a stop or got on the wrong bus. Seems you have to ring the bell before your stop, but since the Irish don't believe in street signs it was very hard to figure out where we were in time to ring the bell. Would spend 30 minutes every night figuring out what buses to take the following day to see what we wanted, and it never, ever worked out. Wanted to go the Zoo. Took #10 by Trinity College, as the bus map says 10/10A to Zoo. Well, the bus stops at University and the bus driver says "End of the line." I ask how to get to the Zoo, as we are apparently on the wrong bus. He says - Right bus. I say - But this isn't the Zoo. He says - Right bus, wrong wau, you want 10 - Phoenix Park. No problem, there's a 10 bus right ahead of us that says Phoenix Park. Run to that bus, ask the driver ' Does this bus go to the Zoo? He says yes, and I sit down feeling good. After 10 minutes of not moving he says, Sorry - I'm not going to the Zoo, (something about change of drivers), but there'll be another bus along in a miute that will take you to the Zoo. Fine. We get off, along with 3 other families, for 20 minutes for another 10 bus. And when it comes - guess what?!? It was our original driver!!! I ask - does this go to the Zoo? He says no, but take it to the end and then I'll give you directions. Fine. We take it to the end, and then he says, and I quote, "Walk down the hill through the park and there is a bus stop, that will take you to the Zoo." Well, at the end of the hill, no bus stop! So I go "eenie-meenie-left-right", go right and around the bend is the ZOO! Which was fantastic. I am not a big fan of zoos normally but this was one of the highlights of the trip. Very natural, wide range of animals - zebras, flamingoes, rhinos, monkeys, etc. Outstanding.
On the way back from the zoo wanted to go to Jameson's. Pulled out my trusty Dublin Bus map, and when the appropriate bus pulls up ask "Do you go to Old Jameson's Distillery." No - it goes to City Centre(?) and I can transfer there. We go about 3 blocks when he pulls over and says - if you get out here and cross the River Liffey, go up the hill and the Distillery will be right in front of you. Can't miss it. I thank him, and my son and I go off. The road up the hill was more of an alley, we passed two men asleep in a doorway and one yelling in a door intercom to be let in. As we reach the top of the hill - it's GUINNESS! Not Jameson's. Perhaps I should have caught this when we got off and had to cross the river, but I have a notoriously bad sense of direction and spent most of the trip completely disoriented. So I look at my son, decide to laugh rather than cry, and head off on foot to Jameson's. Where we encountered no less than 11 people in the courtyard who had, ahem, obviously taken the tasting tour a few times shall we say?
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Old Nov 7th, 2005, 10:19 AM
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I'll finish this up tonight when I'm home and my mind has defogged. Thanks!
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Old Nov 7th, 2005, 11:22 AM
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Can hardly wait.
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Old Nov 7th, 2005, 12:32 PM
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Boiled tomatoes.
I don't know where you've had breakfast but tomatoes come grilled or fried.
How on earth could you serve boiled tomatoes? Wouldn't you end up with a load of mush and seeds?
 
Old Nov 7th, 2005, 12:45 PM
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There is something quite unnerving about the Dublin City Bus system. We stayed in Malahide one Feb and took the bus in and out of the City. It was especially unnerving to see numerous adolescents flowing about knowingly, while we visiting adults couldn't even manage a simple one-connection trip.
doubtless, they would be lost on the NY subway, too, but at the time, I remember finding little comfort in the thought.
Bob
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Old Nov 7th, 2005, 12:58 PM
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Well, at least you got there without your airplane catching on fire like mine did.
Rather than Dublin we landed at Shannon to a welcoming committee of fire trucks.
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Old Nov 7th, 2005, 01:32 PM
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Great report! Can't wait for more.
She probably meant broiled tomatoes, oldie. They are good on a cold morning.
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Old Nov 7th, 2005, 01:37 PM
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Italian Chauffer - tx for the comment about the subways. I thought - I've done the PATH, DC Metro and NYC Subways - this can't be bad.
The above bus stories are day 3, so I'll try to get back in order. So on to day 2 (Thursday).
Went to Dublin Bus HQ to get a map,tickets and advice. Highly recommend the Rambler passes - that way you don't have to worry about the exact change thing, and if you get on the wrong bus oh well! We definitely got our money's worth out of those $$. Went to the General Post Office (scene of the 1916 Uprising). You can see the bullet holes on the outside of the building, unless the front is under tarps.As it is now. But the inside is beautiful, and my son and I spent a few minutes there as I explained to him how the men were holed up in there for a week with bullets flying outside. Even w/o seeing the bullet holes it was pretty moving. I really wanted him to get a sense of his roots and history on this trip, so went a little more "teachy" than I usually do, but he got it.
Wandered around O'Connell St (the main road that runs across the River Liffey). Browsed in Clery's Dept store. Very nice, quite classy. Alex thought it was funny that Levi's were 99 euro (about $122) since he was wearing his that we bought at Target for $25. Got a crash course in import/export lol. Stopped at the cafe (remember when our dept stores had those - JCPenney and Macy's? I'm in NJ). He had cake and a juice box.
AFter his strength was restored by cake, we went to ILAC. It's described as a mall with a lot of local shops. By one entrance to the complex is a large alley where they have open air markets for bread, veggies, etc.
Then it was on to Guinness for the tour. Time for a bathroom break - fyi - the ladies room is a flight up from the men's room. There were women wandering around looking for a sign, they should put that on a separate tour. Alex not too enthralled, so we skipped most of it (it's self-guided) went to Floor 2 to see the advertising then straight to the top to the Bar. Yes, you do get a free Guinness. When you buy your ticket (or use Dublin Pass like we did)you get a little bag with a rubber ring and an acrylic circle, like a small paperweight, with a drop of the good stuff inside. You turn in the rubber ring for either a soft drink or Guinness. There's even a coupon for a free pint your next trip. Definitely one of our fave souvenirs.Everyone at home told me it was only a 1/2 pt, but I got a full pt. maybe because I ordered it w/ lunch.
And that lunch! I am still drooling thinking about it. I was debating between the smoked salmon and cream cheese on brown bread or the risotto. I asked our server which he preferred, and his eyes lit up at "Risotto!". I don't normally rave about food but OMG - mushroom risotto with half inch of melted goat cheese on top. Mixed greens with a fantastic vinagrette, and ratatouille (sp?). With a Guinness that makes what we have here taste like dirt.
My son the adventurer who wanted to try new foods? Chicken tenders with potato wedges. Oh well. BUT - the ketchup had a sweet/sour taste to it - excellent.
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Old Nov 7th, 2005, 02:19 PM
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Thursday continued: During the day we did the Hop-On/Hop-Off tour. Had gone to Dublin Tourism HQ to pick up tix for that and Dublin Pass (had ordered online before we left. If you do order it in euro, not $ - the exchange rate they give you is horrible! I did euro and saved about $15). Nothing too thrilling, but every driver we had sang Molly Malone - one sang 4 verses, but I think he made some of it up haha. My first Dublin joke: Molly Malone was celibate - she'd sell-a-bit here, sell-a-bit-there. EVERY driver we had told that joke. Aarrgh. We were stuck along the River Liffey for about 20 minutes before the driver told us there was some sort of protest that was blocking traffic. We ended up getting off and walking.
Wandered around Temple Bar for a while. Reminded me of Bourbon St in New Orleans in the off-season - very touristy. Ate at Thunder Rd - yuck. Cool decor - very "American" especially liked the Mt Rushmore with arms coming out from each head holding motorcycle handlebars. I had a Heineken and the Seafood Conchigle. It was billed as pasta shells with Irish smoked salmon and tiger prawns in a light cream sauce. Sounds good right? The prawns were AWOL and the salmon resembled Bac-O-Bits. Tasted like the Lean Cuisine I had in the freezer back home. My son, the "adventurous eater" had a cheeseburger and Coke. The menu was strictly limited and grossly overpriced. My son wanted a cheeseburger but the only one onthe menu was 15 euro for a 1/2 lb of meat -I mean, c'mon. He's a growing boy but 1/2 LB! Good thing he asked for the kids menu.
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Old Nov 7th, 2005, 02:58 PM
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Interesting trip report! I too just returned from Dublin-loved it!

What was the restaurant with the great risotto lunch? I'm keeping track for my next trip!
Shadow
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Old Nov 7th, 2005, 03:22 PM
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Sorry Shadow - the fantastic lunch was at the Guinness restaurant. Mmmm..
So on to Friday...
This was the day we decided to see stuff! Do things! Yeah, right...talk about best laid plans. The goal was to visit Christ Church and St Pat's in the morning, have lunch, then do Viking Splash Tour in the afternoon. Viking Splash is like the Duck Tours here in the States. If you haven't done one - do it asap. They take the old amphibious vehicles from WW2 and use them for land/water tours with hyterical tour guides. The Duck Tours hand out duck bill shaped kazoos that you "quack" at unsuspecting people as you go by. Our fave was in Washington DC - as we drove by the airport, one group of skycaps whipped out kazoos and quacked at us - my son still laughs about that yrs later. Well Viking Splash is the same concept, but instead of being ducks you are Vikings who roar at unsuspecting tourists. Lots of funSince the tours are pretty popular it's usually good to get your tickets early, so we head to the Tour Office first thing. Or rather, first thing after getting totally lost, turned around, and near tears. I was starting to feel like I was in the dream where you walk around a corner to see the same street time after time. Somehow we found the office (10% off for adults if you have the Dublin Pass and a free gift for kids - cool little pewter Viking) and she gives us tix for 11am - it's 10:59! Wait - this isn't on my schedule until this afternoon! Oh crap, oh well, we run to the Viking Bus. There's about 6 Viking hats for kids to wear on the bus, our guide teaches us the roar (hands UP! fists CLENCHED! and ROOAARR!)and we're off. I wish I had a tape recorder for this guy - he was priceless - Irish brogue trying to do a Viking accent with non-stop jokes. Awesome - Q. How do you tell the difference between Bono and Jesus Christ? A.Jesus doesn't think he's Bono. And my favorite.. Bono was awarded the Freedom of the City (I think that's waht it's called). Bill Clinton and Nelson Mandela were also so honored. One of the perks is that you can graze sheep on St Stephen's Green. Well Clinton and Mandela had other things to do and aren't really sheep farmers, but Bono got a sheep, took it to the Park for a few photo ops. It was dicovered that the sheep was a ewe too (U2). I know, bad, but the guide started laughing halfway through and apologized, saying he doesn't often tell that story because it cracks him up every time. Me too
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Old Nov 7th, 2005, 03:38 PM
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I think the lack of sleep just caught up with me - 5 hrs difference plus daylight savings, ugh. Post the last little bit tomorrow - more food, shopping and my son sees dead people (or rather, I try to explain the Irish obsession with death).
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Old Nov 7th, 2005, 05:58 PM
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Ocnmeg: I also meant to ask when were you in Dublin? I was there 10/17-10/19 and back again 10/27 and we flew back to Calif. on 10/30 (time change day). So, we had 10.5 flight and the time change.
Shadow
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Old Nov 8th, 2005, 08:47 AM
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Friday afternoon...after Viking Splash Tour, we are at St Stephens' Mall. Like any mall back home, and of course my son wanted to find a skateboard shop. He pointed out that he hadn't seen anyone skateboarding in Dublin (probably bc of the heavily congested sidewalks), so we didn't think there's be a shop like that in the mall/ Well there was! I can't recall the name, but it had Vans, Quiksilver, Billabong, all the usual names. Alex wanted a hoodie until we saw the price - 80 euro! Again, we did the math and my son starts laughing at the thought of paying $96 for a $30 hoodie. We spent 20 minutes going around the store converting prices (sshh- don't tell my son he was doing MAth!) Ate at the food area - Southern Fried Chicken (shortest line). Again, we son got chicken and I had a fillet sandwich. Neither were thrilling but hey, mall food isn't the best wherever you go. We stopped for ice cream at a kiosk and he ordered a twin cone, expecting a double dip. Well, it was a two-headed cone - he thought it was so cool I had to take a picture of it.
Then it was on to the cathedrals (again, when I say "on to" it means wandering around aimlessly cursing under my breath at the lack of signage and my own amazing lack of direction (not in life, just this trip. yea right ) So we happen upon Christ Church. Very sweet people at the door, very straightforward map, or so they say. I'm looking at the guide now, somewhat de-jet-lagged, and it still makes no sense! You start at point #1, go to 2 and 3, then cross the church to go to 4, back again (passing #14) to go to 5, argh. We went in a clock wise direction, using the guide as a reference but not in order. I went into the crypt (the child isn't a big crypt fan). Very cool.
Then it was St Patrick's. Or as I call it - the Church of the Dead People. There are memorials upon plaques upon engraved tiles in memoriam. Now, being Irish, I have a healthy appreciation for the dead. But this was over the top! It bordered on ghoulish, and my son started to get a bit creeped out. I tried to explain how the Irish feel about death, and he asked: Is that why they smoke and drink so much? Because they are obsessed with death? That fell under the category of "Questions to ask your grandfather when we get back home."
Then we meandered aeound St Stephen's Green for a bit. Reminded me of Central PArk but more of a garden feel to it. Very very nice.
Dinner was at Gallaghers Boxty House. Two men playing Irish music in the corner, nice is harried staff, good food. Had blak and white pudding - yum, yum! Alex had the Dublin Coddle, which is a sausage and bacon stew (bacon was a no-show though), I had the corned beef and cabbage boxty. Bad idea. Boxty is a potato pancake and I was thinking more of a hash brown, not a crepe. It was a very weird combo, but the Murphy's washed it down nicley. They don't serve Guinness and EVERY single person who came in ordered Guinness before they even looked at the menu - where it says - We do NOT serve Guinness.
Did some shopping - Trinity Sweaters on Nassau St had aran sweaters for 29.99 euro, machine knit. Went to Dr Quirky's Fell Good Emporium (or something liek that) - it's an arcade. Confusing - some games took tokens, some were 5 20cent pieces, some were 1 euro. OK, there's an adult gaming area connected to it and there's a sign put front saying no one under 18 allowed after 8pm. We were there around 7.
For Saturday's adventures (aka the Bus Rides from Hell) see a few post above. Teh Jameson tour was good - very informative with the tasting at the end (much needed after that day!)
Sunday we left. I wanted to get at the airport in plenty of time for our 3:40 flight to LHR, so we were out front at the bus stop at 10:45 (after confirming with the B&B owner that it was the right bus stop!). At 11:15 a bus stopped, said he was going to the airport, but he had no more room for luggage so we couldn't board. At 11:35 a bus came that we could squeeze on, and we got to the airport around 12:20 or so. Checked in and had 3 hrs to kill. (In answer to the question of why didn't I fly direct into Dublin, I wanted to fly out on 11/1 since that was son's birthday, and due to time and cost constraints this was the best way to go.) Perused the Duty-free, had a muffin and a glass of wine at the cafe, and, um, yep, killed time.
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