How hard a drive is this? I know it is not too long - 2 hours? - but how windy and steep?

There are some twisting stretches along the lake shore. Everyone's tolerance is different but I did not find them to be terrible. There is a more direct route along the western shore of the Lake; you would have to take the ferry to Menaggio and travel south from there. You also have to figure in traffic near Malpensa, no matter which route you choose.

We drove that route during the day. Roads are narrow, but manageable. We did leave Bellagio during daylight hours for a restaurant, perhaps a half hour away. For me, driving at night was difficult.

It is not easy via the direct route, and parking in Bellagio is also difficult. I would think twice about a car. Or, stay in Menaggio on the west shore opposite Bellagio--much more car friendly.

The western shore road is usually recommended, however, once we were stuck behind a bus which was too wide for the road.. Finally took the ferry over to Bellagio from either Mennagio or Cadenabbia. Driver services we've used have taken the eastern side of the peninsula where Bellagio is located. There is also another road that goes through the interior of the peninsula.

Last time we drive it we went via Varenna and took the ferry over from there..really quite easy.

Wife and I took the direct route and she had her eyes closed and white knuckles for the last hour and a half. Scenic as heck compared to the western route to Menaggio, but you can't really enjoy if you're driving since it's way to narrow, twisty, and frightening when a truck comes from the other direction. Took the ferry to Mennagio and the Western route back to Malpensa and my wife was very thankful. And I got to enjoy the drive too.

Easiest route is by autoroute from Malpensa direction Milano and then direction Como/Chiasso. Exit Como Nord (after Como Monte Olimpino) which is just before Swiss border - exit just after long tunnel. Then follow signs for Menaggio and go up western side of lake and cross over from Cadenabbia (which is before Menaggio).

Don't go via Varenna as Dukey1 says - it makes no sense from Malpensa if you look at the map as well as consider the traffic problems getting to that side of the lake.