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Old Mar 29th, 2022 | 07:15 AM
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Douro quinta dilemma

It seems Sept/Oct is a popular time to visit the Douro Valley (no surprise there) and some quintas are booked already. I need help deciding where to stay for 3 nights. We are looking for a comfortable place, beautiful grounds and views (hills and river), nice breakfast. A restaurant would not hurt, but we'd also like to explore other restaurants in the area (DOC for sure). So a relatively easy way to drive back after dinner would be appreciated by the driver (LOL, not me &#129315.

I think I remember reading that Pinhao area is "nicer" in terms of views than Peso da Régua - is that true?

As of now, I see available for our dates at: Quinta de la Rosa, Chanceleiros, Quinta do Vallado, Delfim Douro, Quinta Da Marka - do you have any opinion on any of these?
No availability at Quinta da Pacheca, Quinta Do Pego, The Vintage House so please don't suggest them. Thank you.
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Old Mar 29th, 2022 | 08:03 AM
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Yes, better views by far in Pinhão. We go there rather than to Régua because the Cima Corgo, where the most acclaimed port estates sit, is the most visually impressive.

And yes, I have an opinion on these 5, which I’ve toured or seen. I would eliminate Quinta da Marka because of its remoteness and the challenging drive up there (been there done that). While it’s a short distance from Quinta do Crasto, it’s not within an easy distance of other quintas for wine touring. It, to me, is more of a getaway place.

I’d also eliminate Delfim because for me it has little to no Portuguese charm.

The two from which I’d choose would be Quinta de la Rosa, just outside Pinhão, but actually within walking distance over the pedestrian bridge, a real working winery where they still stomp some of the grapes by foot, with a restaurant, Cozinha da Clara, where we’ve had excellent lunches. Here I’ve seen rooms in all categories, and the ones I would prefer and liked the most are the ones named for each child of the family (I can give you the room names later) and that have their own parking spaces. All rooms here don’t have Douro views, but there are terraces that do, and the restaurant has the views, and the tasting room as well, although views are best from the restaurant terrace, open in nice weather. The original manor rooms are at the river’s edge, but require a steep climb up the staircase, and are antique filled. The quinta has a pool.

These two, in my book, are both fine choices, since Quinta do Pégo has no availability (not surprised since it’s small and much in demand).

Chanceleiros is not far from Pinhão, an easy drive, and has lots of traditional charm, with nice river views from each room, and is run with great aplomb by Ursula. It’s not a working wine estate but there’s one a short walk away, Quinta do Infantado. It also has a pool in the garden. While it doesn’t have a restaurant, evening meals with wine are served for the guests only, and they get solid reviews.


I’d also eliminate Vallado in Régua (great wines and olive oils, though), only because it doesn’t sit on the Douro but instead on a tributary, and faces a viaduct, and rooms in the original manor home can be inconsistent—some charming and others not so much. The new contemporary wing is quite spiffy, but Vallado evening meals, a friend says, are not particularly memorable. Better to taxi the short distance to Régua for dinner at tiny and charming Tasca da Quinta in town behind the Douro Museum or excellent Castas e Pratos or its sister restaurant, The River, both in a renovated railroad warehouse. I would go to Vallado for a wine tour or simply to the shop to purchase wines and olive oil.

Just some thoughts.



Last edited by Maribel; Mar 29th, 2022 at 08:40 AM.
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Old Mar 29th, 2022 | 09:45 AM
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Great thoughts and suggestions, Maribel, I knew I can count on you! Now, deciding between Quinta de la Rosa and Chanceleiros...this is tough, but I think I like the views and grounds of Chanceleiros better. So we'll go with that. This will be our "relax" time, easy strolls and photo ops at various view points, good food (not that we won't have good food in the other parts of Portugal), and if I get lucky, a couple of hours of birding in the morning for me.
We'll do a wine tasting a day, but no more than that, so we'll need to be very selective. For the March trip I had planned a tasting at Graham's (in Porto), and we'll keep it for the fall trip, too. Any recommendation for any complementary/different experience in the area? Thanks.
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Old Mar 29th, 2022 | 12:20 PM
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Glad you found some options - I'd be torn, too, but I agree, I think Chanceleiros looks beautiful. And I'm going to follow this thread, too, for the recommendations for wine tasting! I'd like to do one, but am not sure where.
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Old Mar 29th, 2022 | 12:45 PM
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progol.
One very easy wine tasting and also very informative for newbies to port production and also an easy on and off the highway, is Quinta do Tedo. We remarked that beginners to port should first take the tour here. And it's not expensive. They also produce a very tasty rosé port.

xyz,
I think you've chosen well. In our dealings with Ursula, the owner, we've found her very accommodating and the inn gets great reviews.

For other wine tastings in Douro, we like Quinta das Carvalhas, belonging to Real Companhia Velha, walkable from Pinhão, right across the river and Quinta da Roêda. belonging to Croft, which is a very short drive from Pinhão, under 2 kilometers.
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Old Mar 29th, 2022 | 12:51 PM
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Thanks, Maribel,
I do remember Quinta do Tedo - it looks like the right kind of place for us. Low-keyed. Do you know if their walking trails are open to visitors or just for people who are staying there? That sounds like a wonderful thing to be able to do as well.
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Old Mar 29th, 2022 | 03:58 PM
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Quick note on Chanceleiros: dealing with Ursula is indeed very easy. She's very responsive and accommodating, I'm sure we'll have a wonderful stay there.
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Old Mar 30th, 2022 | 01:03 AM
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Originally Posted by xyz99
Quick note on Chanceleiros: dealing with Ursula is indeed very easy. She's very responsive and accommodating, I'm sure we'll have a wonderful stay there.
Yes, I’m sure you’ll have a lovely stay.
We have a friend staying there in September.

progol, I don’t see why you couldn’t access the trails at Tedo.
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