ekscrunchy

Hausfrau, Le Vieux Logis must be open for lunch in October because I have reservations for the third week in October on a weekday. A place I really liked for lunch (on my first trip a few years ago) was the walnut oil mill near Martel in Les Landes. Very inexpensive set lunch with two choices..lamb or duck. I will give the info if you are interested.

moolyn

ekscrunchy, have a wonderful time in the Dordogne!

hausfrau, we didn't need reservations for Bistro l'Octroi when we were there in June so you should be fine at the end of October, especially if you're there by 8:00. Most of the diners are locals since it's away from the town centre, but not too far.

I'm dispappointed for you if le Vieux Logis does not offer their set lunch after the summer. We ate there at the recomendation of Carlux and thoroughly enjoyed it. We'd definitely return.

Unlike Carlux, I overcame my scruples and did take photos of our meals at both places and you can find my trip report if you click on my name. I'll be adding one of le Presidial soon too.

gracejoan3

I returned from the area 2 days ago.

We went to l'Octroi and were quite disappointed. It is a small dining room..you walk in the door and smokers to the left and non smokers to the right!! Unfortunately the smoke from the smoking side does not stay on the smoking side....the smokers seemed to smoke while they were eating!! Not a place with atmosphere of any sort.

La Maynardie is a good choice...Presidial had a rather large scrounchy looking group of Americans when we were there. l'Esplanade was not that good...good views. View Logis was by far the best place. Was directed to Belle Etoille rather than La Plume d'Oie..was told that Plume d'Oie was up and down. I asked to see a room at Belle Etoille..sorry I could not stay there. I could stay at Vieux Logis.

I visited with Carlux. A lovely spot.

moolyn

We were in the Dordogne in June and it was very hot so we ate outdoors at le Vieux Logis, Le Presidial and Bisto l'Octroi except for one time. There was no problem with smoke that night, even sitting on the left side as we did. It's not a fancy place but we thought that the quality of the food and the reasonable prices more than made up for any lack of atmosphere.

ekscrunchy

Thanks, Moolyn and Gracejoan. Hausfrau, I made the reservations at Vieux Logis but did not think to check if they have that reasonable set menu. I could not find any mention on their web site, either. I think I will give the Esplanade a miss, even though we are staying in Domme.

JoyC

slightly OT: Not to offend Carlux or Stu Dudley who always give excellent advice in the Dordogne, but I wonder where is one of our resident Dordogne experts -- St Cirq?? Haven't heard from her for months!

ekscrunchy

Yes, she always give such good, learned information.

StCirq

I'm alive and well, thanks! Just been preoccupied with other things for some time now. Being in love is a full-time job

Some other restaurants I'd recommend include:

La Table du Terroir in La Chapelle-Aubareil, near Montignac

Le Relais des Cinq Châteaux in Vitrac

La Bastide in Monpazier

Le Moulin de la Beune in Les Eyzies

bill_boy

La Relais de Cinq Chateau is not in Vitrac. It is in a town called Vezac (between Roque Gageac and Beynac).

It's a good restarurant, especially if you stick to the lower priced menu and stay with the regional dishes (don't go for the haute cusiine-type choices).

Carlux

We have reservations at Le Vieux Logis on 28th October, for the 'tapas' menu and so it is definitly open. In fact I think it may well be open all year.

Having read the other comments on this thread reminds me of how difficult it is to recomment a restaurant. I know a number of people like the Relai des Cinq chateaux, but I have had two of the three worst dishes ever eaten in France there - both involving library paste.

And although we have had any number of people like the Octroi, where we have always had good food, good service, etc. it hasnt suited two recent guests. It's a personal thing - what you like, what you expect - and what's happening in terms of service and cooking at the restaurant the day you go - and of course who else is there. We recently had to ask to move in one of our favourite Michelin starred restaurants, when the (English) table next to us was far too loud. Another (French) patron came over later in the meal to congratulate us on making the decision to move. Nothing is ever perfect when you're dealing with people!

StCirq

Ah yes, Vitrac-Vézac...get 'em confused ALL the time. Right next to one another. Sorry about that. Anyway, Relais des Cinq Châteaux is a good choice.

klondike

Can second St. Cirq's reco of La Bastide in Montpazier. We were there in Sept. and had a wonderful lunch. It's on one of the side streets, and the chef's diplomes and awards take up a good part of one -impressive. The real proof is in the meal itself, however.

hacoah

One of the best meals we ever had was at the Moulin de L'Abbaye in Brantome. The restaurant is right on the bank of the river Dronne (very small). It is a Relais & Chateaux property. Great place to spend the night and savor the wonderful breakfast.

Carlux

One more comment on the Bistro de l'Octroi in Sarlat and the smoking issue. I think gracejoan must have hit a bad night. We have never had an issue with smokers, and I have checked with a number of friends who agree. Normally the upstairs is non smoking, downstairs isn't. And in fact recently when the upstairs was closed, smokers were seated outside. A friend who, like me, is an asthmatic non-smoker says it is one of the places she likes best, not only because of the food, but because of their enforcement of the non smoking policy. Just be sure to ask for 'non-fumeur.' (Not as another friend did repeatedly, 'non-fumier' - no manure please!)