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Dordogne Itinerary

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Old Aug 27th, 2015, 06:44 AM
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>> I think I will replace Marqueyssac with Milandes.<<

I did not visit the Les Jardins de Marqueyssac until my 4th visit to the Dordogne. I really liked it. Having said that i think Les Milandes is a good replacement. I recommend renting/buying ($5 on Amazon) the film " The Josephine Baker Story " as trip preparation . Josephine Baker was an amazing person with an amazing life story.

http://www.marqueyssac.com/

http://www.milandes.com/gb/

Then Tuesday: Chateau de Castelnaud ( Do this castle 1st, most physically demanding, long walk from car parking area, lots of stairs, lots to see)

Chateau de Beynac (Drive to parking lot at the castle, saves a steep climb from the river)

Chateau Les Milandes (make sure you are here at a time you can see the birds of prey show (October 1-16: weekdays 11am, 3:30pm / weekends 11am, 3pm and 4:30pm).

Choose from View/visit La Roque Gageac/ Beynac/Domme, maybe have dinner here. We had an excellent dinner at La Petite Tonnelle (near the riverside, on the road to Beynac castle). In Domme I can recommend dinner at the Hotel de L'Esplanade (stayed there on one trip) or the simple outdoor restaurant next door on the edge of the cliff. For a gourmet dinner I recommend Le Petit Paris in nearby Daglan. In Sarlat we had an excellent dinner at Les Jardins d'Harmony and a good dinner at Le Bistro de l'Octoi.

You mentioned a boat ride: http://www.norbert.fr/
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Old Aug 27th, 2015, 08:28 AM
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On our first trip to Paris in 2003 we rented an apartment and they had CDs of Josephine Baker's music. We listened to them everyday for a week and fell in love--with her music, with Paris, with life again (this was a few days after the Iraq War started and we were very down). I think Milandes is a must see. I will be renting the Josephine Baker movie, thank you for the recommendation.

dugi_otok, thank you also for the advice of which order to see the sights and restaurants. That's extremely helpful!

I think we have Tuesday sorted!

So Wednesday, with the caveats that the times may be a bit off for the market starting, we could conceivably get on the road to Rocamadour by 930am. Giving 1.5 hour to drive to the viewpoint and half and hour to Padirac, we can't get there for 11am tour. They take a break from 12-2. So... I think we'll go browse around the villages, have lunch, and come back for the last Padirac tour at 4pm.
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Old Aug 27th, 2015, 09:15 AM
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For Wed I would visit Lascaux II and the Vezere Valley . Essentually swapping your Wed and Fri. This allows for an early start for your day(Friday) in the upper Dordogne (Rocamadour plus). You then could make an early morning tour to Grotte de Padirac on Friday.

Wednesday

Early morning- Sarlat market.

Mid morning- Drive D704 from Sarlat to Montignac visiting: St-Genies (optional), St-Amand-de-Coly, on to Montignac (purchase your tickets for your English tour to nearby Lascaux II).Then to Lascaux II.

After the tour drive the D706 to St-Leon-sur-Vezere. Have a picnic lunch (see travels with maitaitom for details-we have done this on two occasions). Then continue on to La Roque St. Christophe. I would skip Grotte de Rouffignac and Jardins Du Manoir D'Eyrignac.

It is late afternoon. You can call it a day, or to Musee National Prehistoire in Les Eyzies ( I would not and I studied some Anthro at UCLA) . I would tour a pre arranged Font-de-Gaume. You should visit Domme.
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Old Aug 27th, 2015, 09:29 AM
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I might add, being an Anthro person, it is a better flow to see the replica (Lascaux II) before the real thing (Grotte de Pech-Merle).
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Old Aug 27th, 2015, 10:23 AM
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Thank you again, dugi_otok! I like your suggestions and I think they may be how we organize our days.

I've already x'd Jardins Du Manoir D'Eyrignac off the list, along with Cahors and Figeac, and Marqueyssac. I'm not sure yet about x'ing the Grotte de Rouffignac because husband was more interested in it than La Roque St. Christophe, which I'm more interested in. With going to the Market first, we absolutely would not have time for both!
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Old Aug 27th, 2015, 10:29 AM
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I think that Rouffignac is more interesting than La Roque Saint-Christophe, but it is geographically more isolated, which may be important in a crowded schedule.
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Old Aug 27th, 2015, 02:42 PM
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Rouffignac is interesting, especially with its little electric train which takes you deep into the cave to see the exquisite drawings. However, as others have noted, it will take you some time getting there and back and I don't think you can pre-book, which might add more time to your visit. La Roque Saint-Christophe is different from other pre-historic sites in that it was inhabited until the late mediaeval period and the exhibits give a good idea of how people lived there over the many millennia.

For that day I would stick to the Vezère valley and would certainly include Lascaux II.
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Old Aug 27th, 2015, 03:23 PM
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x'ing Marqueyssac? Yikes! One of our favorite days but maybe just not your thing.
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Old Aug 27th, 2015, 04:33 PM
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I have to admit that I thoroughly enjoyed my time in the gardens of the Dordogne, and was happy to walk them at a rather rapid pace -- I'm not much of a stroller. ;-) When I was there, some were open relatively late, so they might be something you can fit in if time permits....

Too, I don't like to drive after dinner, as I want to savor some wine with my meals and love to just relax into the evening. If you are up for a bit of a splurge meal, I had an amazing dinner at Le Grand Bleu in Sarlat, and it still seems to get good reviews....
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Old Aug 27th, 2015, 06:47 PM
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There is just TOO much to choose from!

TPAYT, we do enjoy gardens but I feel more drawn to Milands. If Marqueyssac is open late, we will try to fit in a visit. We're planning to visit Villandry in the Loire, among other chateau, so we might get a good sampling of gardens there.

As much as I don't want to x Rouffignac, it's looking like logistically it won't work out. But if we have to miss it and Marqueyssac, there's hopefully a "next time."

kja, we try to stay in town centres because we also don't enjoy getting back in the car after dinner. That's strolling time. I'll look at Le Grand Blue in Sarlat, sounds nice. I know at least one night we'll dine on the road (Domme, Bayac, or other) because that may be the only way we get to see the town.

I'm starting to feel like this will come together!
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Old Aug 29th, 2015, 04:49 PM
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I think this is what we'll do:

Tuesday: Rocamadour, Gouffre de Padirac (reserve for 1030am), Beaux Villages (Autoire, Loubressac, Carenac, Martel) I'm taking Collanges-la-Rouge off the list as it's the farthest away. (Long drive day, dinner in Sarlat)

Wednesday: Sarlat Market, then drive to Montignac for Lascaux II, St. Leon-zur-Vezere for a picnic, La Roque St. Christophe, if time the Musee National Prehistoire. We're x-ing Rouffignac as it's not logistically feasible to do.

Thursday: Pech Merle, 1030am English tour (reserved). Lunch in St. Cirq Lapopie. Head back to Sarlat and if time, tour Grotte du Cougnac (2-4pm). (Long drive day, dinner in Sarlat)

Friday: Chateau Castelnaud, Chateau Beynac, Chateau Milandes, (if possible but it likely will not be, the gardens at Marqueyssac). Dinner in this area.

On Saturday we will be driving to Amboise with planned stops at Oradour-sur-Glane and, if time, Chateau de Valencay.

I know it's still busy and we may not be able to do everything. But I feel this is better organized at least!

Thoughts? Thanks!
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Old Aug 29th, 2015, 05:08 PM
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Excellent...You can do it!!!...As Tracy and I (well,mostly I) say, "You can relax when you're dead!" It's these kind of schedules that have Tracy wanting to kill me sometimes, but she is actually happy we did it once we get home and look at the photos and see what we've accomplished. Remember, no matter how busy the day, there is always a bottle of wine waiting for you at the end of the rainbow. Have a wonderful trip!!

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Old Aug 29th, 2015, 05:39 PM
  #33  
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"Thursday: Pech Merle, 1030am English tour (reserved). Lunch in St. Cirq Lapopie. Head back to Sarlat and if time, tour Grotte du Cougnac (2-4pm). (Long drive day, dinner in Sarlat)"

I'm confused -- isn't the Grotte de Cougnac between St. Cirq Lapopie and Sarlat? Or maybe that's what you meant -- to stop en route if time permits and if you can visit without a reservation?

Earlier, you said, "I know at least one night we'll dine on the road (Domme, Bayac, or other)"

If you are still planning on that, this day might be the one to do it, as you will be passing very close to Domme, where you have your choice of two great dining experiences: L'Esplanade or Cabanoix et Châtaigne.

No bad choices here, IMO -- just hard ones!
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Old Aug 29th, 2015, 05:53 PM
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Your trip echoes fairly closely what we did last year. The days were busy, yes, but certainly not crazy busy. Most days we left Sarlat at around 9:30-10:00, and were back anywhere from 6-7 pm, so not outrageously long.

We share the philosophy that we can rest when we're dead. When I'm feeling a bit tired, I tell myself that "I didn't come all this way to sit in my room."

I haven't read up thread, so I don't know if it's been mentioned, but Chateau Biron was a huge favourite of ours, and the Musee Prehistoire a colossal waste of time and money. Just my opinion. Your Wednesday otherwise, was a favourite day. St Leon sur Vezere was a charming place to wander and picnic by the river. Likewise
Carennac.

It was a wonderful trip, full of beauty, and we couldn't help but fall in love with the area!
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Old Aug 29th, 2015, 06:17 PM
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I just read that your husband is slightly claustrophobic, as am I.

Peche Merle was no problem at all for me, but Lascaux certainly was. FYI, the last "room" was quite tight with a low ceiling, and we were urged to cram in close to each other. I could feel myself beginning to hyperventilate. I was standing close to the guide, and she had me stand on my own behind her, next to the exit door, in case I wanted to get out.

Really, my intention isn't to make you nervous, but to share my experience so your husband will have some idea of what might happen. Stick close to the guide, and maybe let her know before you begin.
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Old Aug 29th, 2015, 06:22 PM
  #36  
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"the Musee Prehistoire a colossal waste of time and money"

Not my experience. To each his / her own!
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Old Aug 29th, 2015, 06:25 PM
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@maitaitom, thank you! We share your travel philosophy pretty exactly!

@kja, yes, I wasn't clear. We'll try to stop at the Grotte du Cougnac between St. Cirq LaPopie and Sarlat. Thanks for the restaurant suggestions. We are definitely going to Le Grand Blue--looks wonderful.

Thanks, sugarmaple. You're not the first to say the Musee Prehistoire is not worth it. I'm going to listen and spend our short time elsewhere. Thank you.
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Old Aug 29th, 2015, 06:51 PM
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@sugarmaple, thanks for the heads up about Lascaux II. He read your comments and will head them. Much appreciated. Forewarned is forearmed.

@kja, reviews are mixed! I love museums (I'm kind of a weirdo that way) but with our short time, I think we'll spend it elsewhere.
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Old Aug 29th, 2015, 07:05 PM
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Well, if skipping the (wonderful) Musee Prehistoire gives you time to visit one or more of the lovely gardens in the area, you could do worse!
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Old Aug 29th, 2015, 07:35 PM
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I wish I could put my finger on just what about the Musee we found so disappointing.

Perhaps after a day touring Lascaux, St. Christophe, St Leon, we were too tired to put in the time and effort to make sense of the exhibits. Translation cards were scarce, and we found the layout and maps weren't intuitive. If it was our first stop of the day, and not the last, we would have had the energy and patience required. Maybe we were just getting anxious to get home to the Cahors wine
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