Michael

An alternative is to go to a completely different area for the second stay. La Rochelle to be by the sea and to explore the Charentes; or perhaps closer to the Pyrenees, particularly the Hautes Pyrénées for the mountain scenery (Gavarnie, Col du Tourmalet, Pic du Midi d'Ossau, etc.). Either area is a few hours' drive from the Dordogne.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mksfca/...7622845839973/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mksfca/...7623717915043/

Leely2

<i>I would definitely look for another base outside the Périgord noir, maybe in the Corrèze or Lot if the Périgord vert does not attract you.</i>

I agree, and would choose the Lot. When we were in the Perigord Noir, we traveled into the Lot which seemed a bit more relaxed. We wished dearly that we had had more time there and could have stayed in the Lot for at least a few days.

For what it's worth, we trained to Limoges, picked up a car there, stopped to see Oradour sur Glane, spent the night there, drove down to Sarlat, stopping at Chateau Hautefort on the way. It was such a wonderful trip. I think you'll enjoy your time there, no matter where you base.

kja

I’ll offer a very different – and I believe decidedly uncommon – perspective: I think it depends on what you want to see and experience and on your travel preferences. I travel solo and light, and I want to take full advantage of every moment of my trip. So to me, it is FAR more important to be near what I want to see than to avoid relocating. I can usually change locations without disrupting my sightseeing plans, either by moving during siesta (if there is one) or after everything I want to see has closed for the day. Depending on when I relocate, I can walk around the new location either before or after dinner (or both). So when I spent 4 days in the Perigord Nord, I spent 2 nights in Sarlat and 2 in Domme (and then a night in Rocamadour and then a night in St. Cirq Lapopia and then a night in Albi…). But I believe that most people have a strong preference for a base, and you’re getting some great advice about where to stay from experts on the region.

StCirq

<<So when I spent 4 days in the Perigord Nord, I spent 2 nights in Sarlat and 2 in Domme (and then a night in Rocamadour and then a night in St. Cirq Lapopia and then a night in Albi…).>>

But...but..Sarlat and Domme are, like 10 minutes from each other. Doesn't make any sense to me at all! Really, they're just minutes away.

And Rocamadour and St-Cirq-Lapopie and Albi aren't even in the Périgord Noir, never mind the Dordogne.

dugi_otok

The Michelin maps you need are the LOCAL (yellow)series, 1:150000,
1 inch= 2.37 miles. I bought mine on Amazon.

329( Correze, Dordogne) covers Sarlat, and Rocamadour is on the edge of the map, and does not have Albi on the map.

337(Lot,Tarn-et-Garonne) covers Rocamadour, Albi on the edge.

338(Aveyron, Tarn) covers Albi.

StCirq

Yeah, yellow 329 is what you need (assuming you're actually visiting the Dordogne).

Carlux

'Usually the easiest way to get to here is the train to Beynac – 4 hours from Paris'

Well, of course I meant Brive rather than Beynac. There is certainly no train station in Beynac. We're actually in South Africa right now, and I wrote the post a few hours after getting back from Namibia, where we had NO Internet access. So my brain was obviously in some other gear.

Alice9

Okay, I agree that I don't want to stay in Sarlat for 10 days, so I'm going to do some research and when I emerge, I'll have a selection of possible second places. Then I will look forward to your reaction. My Michelin map will be here shortly, and I'll do some reading. It's nice that there seem to be only good choices!

Alice

TPAYT

This is all a bit overwhelming as we are only in the beginning stages of planning, but I will check out each and every suggestion posted. We always rely heavily on the Fodorites to direct us---your experience is key.

Alice9---I'll be interested in reading your "second place" possibilities.

mr_go

<i>This is all a bit overwhelming...</i>

Don't let it be. The Dordogne is a wonderful place to visit, and chances are you'll enjoy it wherever you go.

We went there on a trip that also included stops in the Languedoc, Provence and the Riviera. And if I had to do it over again, I would have spent more time in the Dordogne Valley!

Alice9

Okay, I've been doing a lot of reading and thinking about this. We'll fly into Paris, take the train to Brives, drive to Sarlat and stay there about 6 nights. THEN somewhere else, for probably 3 nights, then back to Brives, back to Paris, 4 nights in Paris then home.

Possibilities for those other 3 nights (and this is what I'd like your opinion on).

1) Those first 6 nights we'll stay IN Sarlat. I've seen a number of B&Bs that are outside a city, where you can also have dinner. Might make a nice change, we'd still be in the area.
2) Just for a change, stay 3 nights in a close by city, we don't mind moving after 6 nights. Maybe Domme, Saint-Cyprien, Beynac.. suggestions welcome. Somewhere with nice restaurants etc.
3) Stay somewhere near or in Lot, maybe Figeac or Cahors. There seem to be a lot of things to see in that area as well.

I don't think we want to add Perigueux or go further west this trip. (But I could be persuaded).

What do you think? Again, as far as I can tell, there are no bad choices here.

Thanks very much,
Alice

StCirq

If you're spending 6 nights in Sarlat, chances are you'll already have driven to/through Domme, St-Cyprien, and Beynac, possibly numerous times. As mentioned, Domme is just around the corner from Sarlat, and Beynac is a 10-minute drive or so. Beynac has minimal commerce and nothing I'd consider all that nice a restaurant. Same for St-Cyprien.

I would head for Figeac, stopping in the Rocamadour/Gouffre de Padirac/Martel/Collonges-la-Rouge area on the way. Figeac is a lovely place (with at least one outstanding restaurant). From there you'd have a load of possibilities for daytrips.

StuDudley

I agree with St Cirq about staying someplace a little farther away from Sarlat for your second "base". Although I love Figeac, I actually prefer someplace around St Cere - so you'll be closer to more "stuff" - Rocamadour, Padirac, Carennac, LaCave, Martel, Autoire, Loubressac, Castelnau chateau, St Cere, Ch Montal, etc. On the way from Sarlat to the St Cere area, swing south and visit St Cirq Lapopie, Pech Merle, Cele River, and Figeac. On the way to Brive la Gaillard (note the spelling), visit Turenne and Collonges la Rouge.

Stu Dudley

kja

As the person who mentioned staying in both Sarlat and Domme, let me say I completely agree with StCirq and StuDudley - with 6 nights in Sarlat, moving on makes the most sense. And they are giving some great options (as they always do).

Alice9

So Stu, you think St Cere would be a better base than Figeac geographically? And town-wise similar?

I'm also just starting to look at the kinds of accommodations available and things seem relatively inexpensive, it's a little surprising. Maybe because we were in very expensive Switzerland last year. I'm not seeing A/C much, is that not widely available? (I usually need it for noise control more than anything else).

But I'm pleased with this rough itinerary, I think whether we go with Figeac or St Cere or something else in that area, those 3 days somewhere else will round out the trip a little and give a better access to some other places.

Alice

StuDudley

>>So Stu, you think St Cere would be a better base than Figeac geographically?<<

Yep - get the Michelin map & circle all the places you would like to visit east of Souillac. I bet there are more things you've circled that are closer to St Cere than Figeac.

>>And town-wise similar?<<

Nope - Figeac is one of my favorite towns. Not as many things "happining" in Figeac as in Sarlat, but lots of interesting architecture. St Cere has an interesting town square, and there are old houses scattered around. There's a walking itinerary of St Cere in the Michelin Green Guide. Get the guide & read about St Cere & Figeac. The Green Guide also has a driving itinerary for the area around St Cere. There is a nice Michelin 1 star restaurant just outside of St Cere and some cafes & restaurants in town - but the town as a whole is not as charming/interesting as Figeac. There are other villages in the immediate St Cere region which would be fine for a base also.

Stu Dudley

Mimar

And I'd stay in Sarlat, not outside it. Old town Sarlat is a great place to walk around at dusk and at night. It's not crowded, one can enjoy the town's "medievalness" more. And there's a good choice of restaurants. Nice to be able to walk to a restaurant and drink wine; no need for a designated driver.

We stayed at Les Cordeliers and loved it. It's right on the edge of the old town. We were able to park on the street. Our room was huge. And they have this nice little kitchen with free drinks and snacks available.

StuDudley

Alice

Do you have my 20+ page itinerary for the Dordogne? I've sent it to around 1,000 people on Fodors & aol. E-mail me at [email protected] if you want one, and I'll attach it to the reply e-mail.

Stu Dudley

Alice9

Stu, I DO have your fabulous itinerary, it's a great resource. And Mimar, we do plan to stay IN Sarlat. I'll do what Stu suggests in terms of deciding where we want to go and then deciding on Figeac or the St Cere region.

Since I can't book acccommodations until we book air, which it's too early to do (right?), I can just work on drives, and day trips for now. Once I have air taken care of, I have to move directly to booking accommodations.

I never know when to book the airfare. I used to wait until spring 'sales' but they haven't really had those for a while. I keep our dates flexible since a day or two can make a huge difference and just start looking and setting up fare watches and such. Things will stay the same for weeks and all of a sudden I see a much better fare for a day and I grab it. Hopefully, I'll get lucky this time too.

You all are so much help. I do enjoy all the anticipation and research that goes into a trip, and I think it makes such a difference when you're there. If only I could control the weather too!

Alice

StuDudley

>>Since I can't book acccommodations until we book air, which it's too early to do (right?), <<

You can book air up to about 330 days in advance - so July '11 for June '12. I booked our tickets for June '12 travel to Paris then Bordeaux on 10/24/11. I booked our Gites for June & July '12 in about June '11. Hotels & most B&Bs allow cancellations within a reasonable time - so when we are staying in hotels or B&Bs I may book our accommodations before I purchase tickets. Also, several years ago we gave up "watching" fares for June, July, Aug, & Sept. They rarely changed and when they did it was only weeks or so before the departure date when the airline discovered that they had some empty seats on slow days, or it was for a 2-3 leg flight. This year a friend waited too long and had to fly United from SFO to LAX to LHR to FRA to TLS. They got into TLS (Toulouse) at 2am. Next year they are flying AF from SFO to CDG and they booked the June '12 flight in Sept '11.

Stu Dudley