Alice9

We're planning a 2 week trip in June, with 4 days in Paris and the rest in the Dordogne. I think Sarlat would be a good base for us, but wonder about spending 5 or 6 nghts there and 4 or 5 nights..... somewhere else, where it's easier to see other towns.

I've seen suggestions for Albi (not strictly in the Dordogne, right?), Beynac, St-Cyprien.... What might be a good second base? Or should we stay the whole 10 days in Sarlat?

I'm thinking we'll fly into Paris, train to somewhere to get a car. We'll train back to Paris and spend our last 4 nights there, so we don't have to worry about driving far the day we need to catch a plane (been there, done that).

Thanks as always,
Alice

mr_go

With that much time, I would consider renting a home for a full week and spending the remaining days in Sarlat. A rental property will give you a little more space than a B&B/hotel/inn, plus a homier overall feel and the ability to fix your own meals if you so desire. And Sarlat, being a bigger town, gives you plenty of things to see and do as well.

Simply Perigord has a nice selection of rental properties throughout the region. There are tons of them near Beynac and St. Cyprien (and yes, that is a really lovely area), as well as the other side of the river (near Domme, Cenac, Castelnaud, etc.). Those are nice, centrally located general areas that provide ample opportunity for driving daytrips.

TPAYT

I'll be following your post for suggestions. I asked the same question of taconictraveller in their trip report recently--- about midway down (Nov. 15th)

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...e-dordogne.cfm

To add a question to your question:

Train(hopefully TGV) from Paris to where and pick up a car? Most convenient.

StCirq

It certainly wouldn't make sense to spend a week in Sarlat and then move just down the road to Beynac or St-Cyprien. Albi, which isn't even in the Dordogne, presents a whole new world and is a couple of hours away, so you'd be splitting the trip up into the Dordogne followed by a whole new area (which is fine, but you'd need to be prepared for two different experiences). I like the idea of renting a place in the Dordogne in a village somewhere or the countryside and then moving to Sarlat for a few days for a taste of a bustling town.

To TPAYT, I usually take the TGV right from CDG to Libourne or Bordeaux and transfer to a local train to Périgueux, pick up my car there, and drive to St-Cirq, which is between Les Eyzies and Le Bugue. You can also take a train to Brive, but then you have about an hour's drive or more to the Sarlat area. Or a slow train from Gare d'Austerlitz through Limoges to Périgueux. It depends on where, exactly, you're headed in the Dordogne. It's all convenient.

mobilemc

Sarlat would be a good base to explore the eastern side of the Dordogne. For your 2nd stop you might consider a spot in the western part of the Dordogne. This would make day trips to Bergerac, Perigueux and Bordeaux much more relaxed. If Winery visits interest you, you'll also be much closer to some of the best (or at least most famous) wineries around St Emilion.

mr_go

I meant to include a Simply Perigord link in my last post. Here it be: http://www.simply-perigord.com/rentals/dordogne

StCirq

Unless wine is a big focus for you, the western Dordogne is oh so boring compared to the Périgord Noir. Just sayin'....

Michael

Get the Michelin Green Guide to decide what you want to see. If you think that you want to spend some time outside the Périgord noir (staying in Sarlat), it would make sense to have a second base. Brantôme can be visited in a day's drive from Sarlat, but given the time taken up by the driving, it means that other locations will be given little time (Bourdeilles, Saint Jean de Côle, etc.). If basing yourself in the Périgord vert, you could also include Périgueux (go to the Saturday market). This would allow you to concentrate on the Périgord noir and the area immediately to the east of the Dordogne while staying in Sarlat.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mksfca/...7623282383670/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mksfca/...7623221148969/

TPAYT

StCirq---thanks so much for the train info. We're still in the planning stage, but I imagine we'd be going from Paris to Sarlat. An hours drive is fine. Whichever train is the easiest. I also am sort of leaning toward your suggestion of a village or countryside for a week and then a few days in Sarlat. My hours of research on the computer have just multiplied many times over by your suggestion.

Another question-----can you fly from the US direct to anyplace other than Paris that would be more convenient?

StCirq

TPAYT, I think there used to be direct flights from the USA to Bordeaux, and maybe there are direct flights to Toulouse now...but I'm not sure, and it would depend on your origination point. You can definitely fly to Paris, then a connecting flight on to either Bordeaux or Toulouse. And there are small airports in Bergerac, Brive, and I think Périgueux, but I have no experience with any of them. I think poster Carlux has flown to London, then on to Brive, but not sure where her flight originated.

As far as the train goes, if you plan to land in Paris and go directly to the Dordogne, the TGV right from CDG to Libourne or Bordeaux (I prefer getting off at Libourne...easier drive from there) is the way to go. If you're going to stay in Paris first, then move on to the Dordogne, your choices broaden (I actually like taking the pokey train down through Limoges to Périgueux).

PalenQ

I'm thinking we'll fly into Paris, train to somewhere to get a car. We'll train back to Paris and spend our last 4 nights there>

A good place to take the TGV to IME would be Libourne (sp?) a stop on the TGV-Atlantique rail line before Bordeaux - rent a car there and head right up the Dordogne River - St-Emilion to me is a wonderful wonderful wine town - really old looking and surrounded literally by vineyards. You could also take a train from Libourne via a sideline train to Sarlat and rent your car there perhaps. Bordeaux is a huge city with lots of traffic so if you can avoid driving there I would.

PalenQ

Oh meant to say be sure to go to www.voyages-sncf.com to snatch online discounted TGV fares or www.idTGV.com - just show up and pay lots lots more - good sites for oodles of info on French trains IMO - www.seat61.com; www.ricksteves.com and www.budgeteuropetravel.com.

And beware of the pirrahnas in the Dordogne River!

Carlux

As someone who lives in the Perigord Noir, I second the suggestion to spend more time there. We’ve always found it the most interesting part of this beautiful region. I don’t see any point in moving, as you can see virtually everything from the Sarlat area. St Cyprien is about 25 minutes away, Beynac even closer, etc.

Usually the easiest way to get to here is the train to Beynac – 4 hours from Paris, and then pick up a car and drive to Sarlat. I guess it can take an hour, although we usually do it in less. But the scenery is great, and you wouldn’t be bored.

If you’re flying, I don’t know about direct flights – if you find one, prefer Toulouse to Bordeaux. It’s a lot easier to get in and out of. We usually fly to Frankfort and change for Toulouse there. If you are going to Paris, then you have lots more choice

StCirq

I think Carlux meant the train to Brive. If Beynac has a train station, it's eluded me for 20 years.

Can you go directly from CDG to Brive without going into Paris?

twk

The actual dates you are going to be in the region may determine what you want to do. You can see Perigord Noir from a single base, or you could split the trip and maybe see another area, like the adjancent Lot River valley. I like the idea of getting a rental property, but these usually require a one week stay beginning and ending on a Saturday (although we stayed in a house at Beynac that had a rental period beginning on Fridays, which you can read about on my trip report from June 2011 by clicking on my username). So, if that renal period doesn't exactly coincide with your dates, it may influence your decision.

I liked Beynac, although if I went back again, I might look for a place in a small town where there was a grocery store, boulangerie, and other essential shopping stops within walking distance. Sarlat has all that, but it might be a little bit larger than I would prefer.

Judy

We spent a week in Beynac last fall. We stayed at http://www.francebound.net/property.php?id=466 and loved the house. As twk said, Beynac does not have a lot of commerce so shopping was an issue as was walking up to the property. However, sitting on the terrace overlooking the river with hot air balloons drifting by so close we could wave to the passengers was worth the inconvenience.

Alice9

Well, I check my post from this morning and there is so much helpful information! You guys are always great.
Let's see:
1) We like to DRINK wine, but don't feel compelled to go to a wine producing region, especially when the rest of the Dordogne is supposed to be much nicer.
2) I DO have the green Michelin Guide. Am confused about which Michelin map to get though, could use some help there.
3) The train to Brive (Beynac?) with the hour drive to Sarlat sounds perfect.
4) An apartment or house is a good idea, but we generally don't cook in much, but the space is great. It's nice to have a fridge available for cold drinks and yogurt and such. Also if 7 day rentals require Sat-Sat that might make logistics difficult.

Also we like to be in a big enough town where we have lots of good dinner choices and don't have to drive around at night.

5) I think you're right, I should save Albi and environs for another trip.

So 10 days in Sarlat? 2 places 5 days each just to break it up (and in case the place isn't great..)? Even if close by - should we experience staying in one of the nearby towns?

I will check out ALL the links, again thanks so much.

Alice

Michael

I think that 10 days in Sarlat is a bit much for most tourists (note: I spend 3 to 4 weeks a year in the Dordogne). I would definitely look for another base outside the Périgord noir, maybe in the Corrèze or Lot if the Périgord vert does not attract you.

StCirq

I agree that 10 days in Sarlat might be too much, so maybe your Albi idea isn't so bad. Or consider relocating to Quercy, as in near Rocamadour (the Domaine de la Rhue is a fabulous accommodation) so you can visit Figeac, St-Céré, Carennac, Martel, Collonge-la-Rouge, Gourdon...way more interesting than the Périgord Vert IMO.

While in the Sarlat area, if you don't want to stay right in Sarlat, Le Bugue, St-Cyprien, Domme, Lalinde all make good bases (I'm thinking of places that have plenty of commerce, restaurants, markets, etc. so you can walk about and get things done and don't have to drive after a nice meal with some wine).

AGM_Cape_Cod

Thanks for the information about the trains. We have been trying to decide which train to take from Paris on our trip in March.