Depart 9/1: Home Base Montepulciano
Jan 21st, 2007, 09:22 AM
#21
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Stu has some great travel tips and I second the suggested detour from Pienza to Montepulciano that will take you through the most beautiful Tuscan countryside by way of Monticchiello.
We stopped for lunch at La Porta restaurant and had lunch...one of the best of our trip. The gnochi with pecorino...and artichokes with melted pecorino still has my mouth watering.
Monte Oliveto Maggiore and Sant'Antimo are both well worth the visit...surrounded by beautiful scenery. Make sure to time your visit during the gregorian chants...very interesting. Here are two websites you might find useful.
http://www.slowtrav.com/italy/tuscany/monte_oliveto.htm
http://www.slowtrav.com/italy/tuscany/sant_antimo.htm
Good luck with your travel plans
We stopped for lunch at La Porta restaurant and had lunch...one of the best of our trip. The gnochi with pecorino...and artichokes with melted pecorino still has my mouth watering.
Monte Oliveto Maggiore and Sant'Antimo are both well worth the visit...surrounded by beautiful scenery. Make sure to time your visit during the gregorian chants...very interesting. Here are two websites you might find useful.
http://www.slowtrav.com/italy/tuscany/monte_oliveto.htm
http://www.slowtrav.com/italy/tuscany/sant_antimo.htm
Good luck with your travel plans
Feb 6th, 2007, 03:10 PM
#23
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I have to also say that my visit to Sant'Antimo was one of the most special moments of my life. We happened to stop by just in time to sit and listen during one of the chant services and there is no way to describe how lovely that experience was. Don't miss it!
Mar 4th, 2007, 04:30 PM
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My favorite restaurant in Tuscany is Osteria del Teatro in Cortona. www.osteria-del-teatro.it/index_E.html
You can read my trip report and see photos at
http://www.travelswithdiane.homestea...13Tuscany.html
Diane
You can read my trip report and see photos at
http://www.travelswithdiane.homestea...13Tuscany.html
Diane
Mar 4th, 2007, 09:30 PM
#26
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I would offer my hearty dittos and applause for Osteria del Teatro in Cortona....also there are several stores near the wall entrance to Cortona that offer very nice and bargain price bottles of limoncello..
Montepulciano is such a gem..from there it is not far to Bagno Vignoni where there is a thermal spa...very nice and relaxing...
Montepulciano is such a gem..from there it is not far to Bagno Vignoni where there is a thermal spa...very nice and relaxing...
Apr 15th, 2007, 08:45 AM
#28
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Melrae: You already have great recommendations - I'd add a memorable experience found on Slow Travel: bathing outdoors in cascades of the thermal sulphurous springs outside Saturnia - all free and a very old fashioned setting(we did this in 2005). Directions that worked perfectly for us from some kind soul at Slow Travel: Walk around Saturnia (see the Roman arch with remnants of the original Roman road). Then drive to the hot springs and relax in the flowing hot water. Wonderful!
Directions: From Saturnia, drive out of town. At the main road, turn right. The big spa will be on your left. Just past the entrance to the spa, on your left, you will see a hot river running through the field. Some people stop and swim here. Continue down the main road until it makes a sharp turn to the left. The hot springs waterfall is located on your right at this corner. Take the dirt road in and then turn right into a big parking area. Park in a field and then walk to the river. You have to change beside your car, but everyone does this.
We drove a one day loop from Montepulciano through Saturnia, Pitigliano (very different - buildings carved out of the soft "tufa" sone - much like Pueblo Indian city), then Orvieto. I'd save Orvieto for a separate day, as we thought it was gorgeous, but had only 1 1/2 hours there. Orvieto and Chaciano Terme, which we merely passed through regretfully, would be a good separate day trip. If you enjoy driving for the fun of it, you will have the BEST time just in the traveling about from your wonderful Montepulciano base!
Directions: From Saturnia, drive out of town. At the main road, turn right. The big spa will be on your left. Just past the entrance to the spa, on your left, you will see a hot river running through the field. Some people stop and swim here. Continue down the main road until it makes a sharp turn to the left. The hot springs waterfall is located on your right at this corner. Take the dirt road in and then turn right into a big parking area. Park in a field and then walk to the river. You have to change beside your car, but everyone does this.
We drove a one day loop from Montepulciano through Saturnia, Pitigliano (very different - buildings carved out of the soft "tufa" sone - much like Pueblo Indian city), then Orvieto. I'd save Orvieto for a separate day, as we thought it was gorgeous, but had only 1 1/2 hours there. Orvieto and Chaciano Terme, which we merely passed through regretfully, would be a good separate day trip. If you enjoy driving for the fun of it, you will have the BEST time just in the traveling about from your wonderful Montepulciano base!
Jul 26th, 2007, 07:56 AM
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Here are some more scenic drives & places to visit in the area:
The previous route took you through some of the most scenic countryside in the Val d’Orcia. If you want to drive around on your own and explore a little further out, here is a rough geographical description of the area that I think is the most scenic between Siena and Lake Bolsena to the south:
Find Monte San Savino on the Touring Club Italiano - Toscana map. Draw a line from there to about ½ inch west of Sinalunga, to about ½ inch east of Montepulciano, to ½ inch east of Chianciano, and then down the A1 to Orvieto. Everything west of this line I have found to be very scenic, and everything east is not so scenic, in my opinion. If you explore the area from Orvieto, to Todi, to Spoleto, and to Trevi, you will find the villages & scenery enjoyable too. Assisi is one of my “must see” towns and so is Perugia, but the area around these cities is not that great (especially around Perugia). As I mentioned earlier, the countryside around Cortona & Arezzo is not scenic (didn’t take the road from Arezzo to Sansepolcro, which is described in my books as nice). As you go from Bibbiena, to Poppi, to Dicomana, the drive is quite pretty. The Strada dei Sette Ponti (Road of 7 bridges) from Pontassieve (just east of Florence) to Vallombrosa, to Reggello, to Castelfranco to Loro (pretty village) is also quite beautiful.
Drive through the area north of the N146 in the afternoon & see some of the small perched villages:
Petroio, Trequanda, Montisi, Castelmuzio. This area is very scenic.
Visit Murio & the Etruscan museum (west of Monte Olvieto Maggiore Abbey on the other side of the N2). You have probably driven past many advertisements for this town & museum – the ads look like a cartoon character with a cowboy hat (locals joke it’s a caricature of George Bush). The “character” is actually an Etruscan statue in this museum. The town of Murio is interesting to visit and the road that leads southeast through Bibbiano is very scenic.
Radicofani*– south of San Quirico off the N2 to the east. This is a large medieval fortress perched on a hilltop. You can see it from miles around. The view from the top of the tower is fantastic. The drive down the N2 is pretty too.
Head south from San Quirico on the N2 (marked SS2). This is a pretty drive & you will visit some appealing medieval towns in a hidden corner of Tuscany. Just after the southern most Radicofani exit (see the map) & before the small Pte d. Rigo (marked on the Touring Club Italiano map) head southwest on a small road – it goes through Sforzesca. I think there are signs directing you to Pitigliano & Sorano. Follow this road through S. Valentino to Sorano*. The next three towns you will be visiting are in the Green Michelin guide to Tuscany under “Pitigliano”. The approach to Sorano is very pretty – get the camera ready. Explore Sorano on foot. Not much happening in town, but it’s fun to wander around – several artisan shops. Leave Sorano to the south, drive to Pitigliano*, and get the camera ready again. This is our favorite town of the three. Historic Pitigliano has been beautifully & tastefully maintained. Several lunch spots available in town. Next drive to Sovana* & explore this town (not quite as interesting as the other two). Leave Sovana going west and then take the first road going southwest. This road hits another east/west road that goes back to Pitigliano. I am taking you on this route so you can see the view of Pitigliano from the south. Get the camera ready again as you approach Pitigliano. After the view, head east to Acquapendente. Get there by going through Onano – the N2 south of Acquapendente has some really ugly commerce on it. Take the N2 back to San Quirico/Pienza.
Drive to San Quirico from Pienza (if you are staying in Pienza), and when you approach San Quirico, go over a bridge, and the arched town gate is directly in front of you. Immediately turn left in front of the gate (don’t go through the gate - expensive ticket if they catch you). Continue down this road at the east end of San Quirico and park there for a visit (lots of public parking available – free). There is a stairway up to town at the south end (far end) of this car park. Go up the stairs, turn right, and just 5 yds. down this dirt perimeter road there is an iron gate which looks into a lovely garden. This is our friend’s garden & house & it’s where we stay. It’s rentable by the week when they are not there, but please don’t – the more you rent, the fewer days we have to stay there.
http://www.munsells.com/italy/
Turn around & walk to the south entrance of town (go past the stairway). I’ve described San Quirico in previous text. There is even something happening on Sundays in San Quirico (many stores close Wednesday afternoon). Have a café latte at the Bar Centrale (you might see me there, or lounging in our friend’s garden).
Return to your car & continue in the same direction you were driving (south). The road will turn to the right around SQ, and there is a stop sign at the south entrance to town (where you entered on foot). Continue straight and head to the small town of Ripa d’Orcia (southwest of San Quirico). This road is quite scenic. Ripa d’Orcia is actually a castle with a rustic B&B (It’s in the Karen Brown guide – our friends stayed there when they were buying their home in SQ). You can’t go into the castle unless you are staying there or having dinner there (rustic dinner too). Turn around & drive to Vignoni. They were restoring the largest building in this town when we were there in March ’04 and it will be apartments. Continue on this road to Bagno Vignoni. This is a bath/spa town with old Roman bath ruins that are quite interesting. There is a spa/hotel in town. You can purchase a day pass for the spa even if you don’t stay at the hotel (our friends have done this many times). I’m not a spa person, but the spa complex looks like a resort hotel you might find in Mexico or Hawaii. The “pool” is fed by a heated water source. It has walkways over the pool as it winds around, and there are lots of lounge chairs where people catch some “rays”. We were there on a Sunday on a cold but sunny day in March and there was lots of activity. The actual town was quite nice too with many/all stores open on Sunday. There are lots of restaurants/ delicatessens with outdoor dining tables for picnics. There is another 90 room “super spa” being built nearby just outside the center of town that is scheduled to open April 1 ‘04, but when we were there on March 28 it looked like it was months away from opening. Our friends said that this hotel first started the planning process in ’80. People in Tuscany like to keep things beautiful and planning is a lot of give & take. The hotel looked very pretty & blended in with the countryside quite well. Great views from the hotel.
Stu Dudley
The previous route took you through some of the most scenic countryside in the Val d’Orcia. If you want to drive around on your own and explore a little further out, here is a rough geographical description of the area that I think is the most scenic between Siena and Lake Bolsena to the south:
Find Monte San Savino on the Touring Club Italiano - Toscana map. Draw a line from there to about ½ inch west of Sinalunga, to about ½ inch east of Montepulciano, to ½ inch east of Chianciano, and then down the A1 to Orvieto. Everything west of this line I have found to be very scenic, and everything east is not so scenic, in my opinion. If you explore the area from Orvieto, to Todi, to Spoleto, and to Trevi, you will find the villages & scenery enjoyable too. Assisi is one of my “must see” towns and so is Perugia, but the area around these cities is not that great (especially around Perugia). As I mentioned earlier, the countryside around Cortona & Arezzo is not scenic (didn’t take the road from Arezzo to Sansepolcro, which is described in my books as nice). As you go from Bibbiena, to Poppi, to Dicomana, the drive is quite pretty. The Strada dei Sette Ponti (Road of 7 bridges) from Pontassieve (just east of Florence) to Vallombrosa, to Reggello, to Castelfranco to Loro (pretty village) is also quite beautiful.
Drive through the area north of the N146 in the afternoon & see some of the small perched villages:
Petroio, Trequanda, Montisi, Castelmuzio. This area is very scenic.
Visit Murio & the Etruscan museum (west of Monte Olvieto Maggiore Abbey on the other side of the N2). You have probably driven past many advertisements for this town & museum – the ads look like a cartoon character with a cowboy hat (locals joke it’s a caricature of George Bush). The “character” is actually an Etruscan statue in this museum. The town of Murio is interesting to visit and the road that leads southeast through Bibbiano is very scenic.
Radicofani*– south of San Quirico off the N2 to the east. This is a large medieval fortress perched on a hilltop. You can see it from miles around. The view from the top of the tower is fantastic. The drive down the N2 is pretty too.
Head south from San Quirico on the N2 (marked SS2). This is a pretty drive & you will visit some appealing medieval towns in a hidden corner of Tuscany. Just after the southern most Radicofani exit (see the map) & before the small Pte d. Rigo (marked on the Touring Club Italiano map) head southwest on a small road – it goes through Sforzesca. I think there are signs directing you to Pitigliano & Sorano. Follow this road through S. Valentino to Sorano*. The next three towns you will be visiting are in the Green Michelin guide to Tuscany under “Pitigliano”. The approach to Sorano is very pretty – get the camera ready. Explore Sorano on foot. Not much happening in town, but it’s fun to wander around – several artisan shops. Leave Sorano to the south, drive to Pitigliano*, and get the camera ready again. This is our favorite town of the three. Historic Pitigliano has been beautifully & tastefully maintained. Several lunch spots available in town. Next drive to Sovana* & explore this town (not quite as interesting as the other two). Leave Sovana going west and then take the first road going southwest. This road hits another east/west road that goes back to Pitigliano. I am taking you on this route so you can see the view of Pitigliano from the south. Get the camera ready again as you approach Pitigliano. After the view, head east to Acquapendente. Get there by going through Onano – the N2 south of Acquapendente has some really ugly commerce on it. Take the N2 back to San Quirico/Pienza.
Drive to San Quirico from Pienza (if you are staying in Pienza), and when you approach San Quirico, go over a bridge, and the arched town gate is directly in front of you. Immediately turn left in front of the gate (don’t go through the gate - expensive ticket if they catch you). Continue down this road at the east end of San Quirico and park there for a visit (lots of public parking available – free). There is a stairway up to town at the south end (far end) of this car park. Go up the stairs, turn right, and just 5 yds. down this dirt perimeter road there is an iron gate which looks into a lovely garden. This is our friend’s garden & house & it’s where we stay. It’s rentable by the week when they are not there, but please don’t – the more you rent, the fewer days we have to stay there.
http://www.munsells.com/italy/
Turn around & walk to the south entrance of town (go past the stairway). I’ve described San Quirico in previous text. There is even something happening on Sundays in San Quirico (many stores close Wednesday afternoon). Have a café latte at the Bar Centrale (you might see me there, or lounging in our friend’s garden).
Return to your car & continue in the same direction you were driving (south). The road will turn to the right around SQ, and there is a stop sign at the south entrance to town (where you entered on foot). Continue straight and head to the small town of Ripa d’Orcia (southwest of San Quirico). This road is quite scenic. Ripa d’Orcia is actually a castle with a rustic B&B (It’s in the Karen Brown guide – our friends stayed there when they were buying their home in SQ). You can’t go into the castle unless you are staying there or having dinner there (rustic dinner too). Turn around & drive to Vignoni. They were restoring the largest building in this town when we were there in March ’04 and it will be apartments. Continue on this road to Bagno Vignoni. This is a bath/spa town with old Roman bath ruins that are quite interesting. There is a spa/hotel in town. You can purchase a day pass for the spa even if you don’t stay at the hotel (our friends have done this many times). I’m not a spa person, but the spa complex looks like a resort hotel you might find in Mexico or Hawaii. The “pool” is fed by a heated water source. It has walkways over the pool as it winds around, and there are lots of lounge chairs where people catch some “rays”. We were there on a Sunday on a cold but sunny day in March and there was lots of activity. The actual town was quite nice too with many/all stores open on Sunday. There are lots of restaurants/ delicatessens with outdoor dining tables for picnics. There is another 90 room “super spa” being built nearby just outside the center of town that is scheduled to open April 1 ‘04, but when we were there on March 28 it looked like it was months away from opening. Our friends said that this hotel first started the planning process in ’80. People in Tuscany like to keep things beautiful and planning is a lot of give & take. The hotel looked very pretty & blended in with the countryside quite well. Great views from the hotel.
Stu Dudley
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