I'm going to be in northern Italy for two weeks: 2 nights Varenna, 5 nights Bologna, 3 nights Venice, 3 nights Stresa, 1 night Vigevano.

I'll be taking most of my day trips from Bologna. I do not rent cars in Europe (cannot be talked into doing so). However, I know Bologna is an excellent train hub, so I should be able to get around quite well to major destinations. I'll also be meeting an Internet pal who lives there and who has vacation time that overlaps with my stay, so on at least one of the days I'll be getting around by car.

Though I could easily get to Ferrara by train, I will be going there with my friend by car, because it's his favorite city. That same day, I will probably also see some small towns that are not reasonably accessible by public transportation (e.g., Doxa, and maybe Sabbionetta). At some point during my stay in Bologna, I want to re-visit Ravenna, which I have not seen in 31 years (I think I went there as a day trip from Venice that time). From Bologna, I'd also like to visit, for the first time: Mantova, and Parma and/or the old part of Modena. (I realize that Mantova will not be the most convenient place to get to, but I really want to go there.) If I happen to have another day traveling by car from Bologna with my friend, San Marino is also a possibility.

Though I am able to figure out the train transportation and choices myself, I would really welcome any opinions from people who've been to any of the places I'm planning to visit from Bologna. I may need to save some of this for another time, since I can't get to them all during a five-night stay when most of the days I will not be using a car. Since I might have a choice re which places (besides Ferrara, his favorite) to visit by car with my friend and which ones to visit alone by train, I'd also welcome opinions re which are best to squeeze in on the one or at most two days that I can go by car, and which are best to visit by train. Also if you have other suggestions re small towns and sites near Bologna worth seeing, but ONLY by car, please let me know.

topping

I received some great advice on possible day trips (which, in the end, we weren't able to take).

If you search on "Bologna" I'm sure you'll find that thread, full of great advice.

Also hoping other Bolognaphiles will see this thread and input further.

I recall that buses were very easy within Bologna centre and it was easy to get to the train station and trains are said to be pretty frequent to surrounding towns.

I wanted to visit Parma, Ferrova and various places...

Bologna itself I really liked and posted some feedback here on my return.

Hope you have a great trip.

There is a special exhibit at Mantova from Sept 2 to Jan 12 at Palazzo Te. It's the first attempt to reconstruct the Gonzaga collections. It's called the "Celeste Galeria dei Gonzaga."
www.mostragonzaga.it has info. I certainly wish I were going!

Kavey: My hotel is somewhere in the center, so I guess I shouldn't have a problem. I just have to pare down my list of places I'd like to go, since I can't go everywhere.

Avonil: You can still come!!! I think you sent me an article or webpage about that exhibit.

Believe me, I'm still trying to wriggle out of previous commitments!
The tickets for that show can be reserved on-line. It also has been extended from it's previously stated end date, so it must be popular.

Uh oh. I didn't notice that tickets have to be reserved in advance. I won't know before leaving home what day I'll be able to go to Mantova.

Carol,

Having lived in Bologna for 2 years, I can say that I think that once there, you may not want to spend that much time away from the city. That said, I would put Mantova at the top of my list. Be sure to see the Palazzo Té (the amazing frescoes in the Sala dei Giganti were recently restored when I were there) and have lunch at Pavese, in the main piazza. Also, I think you meant Dozza, rather than Doxa. Finally, although you hardly need another option, Brisighella is a great little town, with excellent cuisine. Take the train toward Ravenna and change in Faenza. Have fun!

I think it was Dozza, Russ. A friend e-mailed me a photo of it when he was there a few weeks ago, but I can't find the e-mail or the photo, and I must've remembered the name wrong. I see on my orange Michelin that it's Dozza, not Doxa.

You're confirming my decision to go to Mantova (especially at the urging of "avonil" who posted above). I will definitely go to Ferrara, and I'm feeling the urge to see Ravenna again. But you're right that with 5 nights in Bologna I don't want to be so scattered that I miss seeing Bologna itself. So I'll probably leave Parma and Modena for some other time.

Russ: I think this is similar to the picture I saw of Dozza. I can tell tht I'd like it.
http://www.comune.dozza.bo.it/images/alto.jpg

That's a nice photo of Dozza. A couple interesting items: The large Castle at the top of the photo has one of the largest enotecas (wine stores) that I have been to in the Region. Great place to pick up some consumable souveniers. Also, the town is known for its murals painted by contemporary artists every year for the Painted Wall Competition. This was particually charming to me. We had a nice lunch outdoors right across from the entrance to the castle.

Also, if you do decide to fit in one more trip, Modena is certainly the quickest, being only 20 minutes away. Enjoy!

I hope I can get to all or most of the places we're mentioning here.

Have a wonderful trip!

Thanks. I'm sure I will.

My vote to Parma, Verona and Ravenna, from Bologna it is an train trip.

Russ: I just wanted to tell you that I particularly loved Dozza. It was such a surprising, improbable combination of a traditional looking medieval town and a unique offbeat art site. I was just amazed by it.

I went with a friend, an Italian originally from Milan, who lives in Bologna. He'd never even been to Dozza until this summer and he was so excited when he saw it that he e-mailed me the photo and told me that whenever I visited, we'd have to go there.

We went in the morning. I was completely charmed by it. There seemed to be no other foreign visitors besides me and a group of Japanese who seemed equally fascinated and were doing justice to the scenes with excellent photographic equipment. I went to the castle, but didn't buy any wine, because this was pretty early in my trip and it's a huge pain to carry.

There was some sagra going on--grape harvest or something like that--and, just as you described, there was to be a big communal supper in the square that night at a very cheap price. So after our trip to Ravenna, where I enjoyed revisiting the mosaics I'd seen 31 years ago and my friend saw them for the first time, we returned to Dozza for supper. It was good food, better than many of the overpriced meals I found elsewhere in Emilia-Romagna and Lombardy, and cheap. It was also a happy, friendly, but not rowdy group of people--a completely satisfying experience.

I learned Italian in college many moons ago from someone who grew up near there, on a farm in Imola. It was interesting to see her home territiry and I sent her a postcard from Dozza. (I'd just spoken to her a week before I left and neglected to mention I was leaving for Italy, so it will probably seem a bit strange.)

topping for Kansas Kate

cmt:

i really enjoyed Modena for a day trip from Bologna. It does not take long at all to get there (maybe 30 minutes to 1 hour?) and makes a great morning trip/day trip by train. The main piazza and romanesque church are wonderfully different than most, and it's a great emilia romagna town, with lots of porticoes and beautiful red and orange buildings. i liked it better than parma by far, although parma was also nice for its duomo and, of course, its food .

Emilia Romagna is a great region to visit. Enjoy yourself!

Marzabotto is a fantastic WWII memorial site and town that can only be reached via car from Bologna. 40 min drive. I'd highly recommend it.

be susre to check the local bus schedule. easy ride to modena which was worth the trip.