ekscrunchy

I will be on the Costa de la Luz this month for about 12 days. After realizing how close it is to Tangier (by hydrofoil from Tarifa), I am vacillating about taking a day to visit the city. (I've posted this query on the Spain forum since it gets much more traffic than Africa/Middle East forums).

Many older reports are pretty negative about Tangier, often comparing a visit to the city from Spain with a visit to Tijuana for visitors to California. Apparently Tangier has undergone a positive refresh in recent years, with the European expat community growing and a general clean-up having taken place.

I'm leaning toward taking the boat and wandering the city on my own; if after a while, I feel the need for a guide (mainly to keep touts and would-be-guides away so I can wander in peace), I could hire one from the tourist office. I'd like to hear comments on this from people who have visited both on their own, and with the company of a guide.

More important: The medina/souk would be the focus of my visit. I have no interest in camel rides or drives to scenic overlooks. I'd like to wander the food stalls and spice shops and would like to purchase some (culinary) argan oil and a few spices if given the opportunity. Maybe a caftan or interesting piece of clothing.. But several reports have commented that the Tangier medina is very small and not all that interesting. I do not want to take the trouble and expense of making the trip only to find that I am finished with my wanderings in an hour. I'm sure it will be nothing like the medina in Fez, but can the Tangier medina keep me busy for a few hours?
Are there any food shops/markets outside of the medina that might be worth visiting?

I'd also welcome a chance to sample some snacks and lunch..maybe bring back a few pastries, m'semen (delicious flatbread), or slices of bistillah (bisteeya/pastilla)..maybe all three, and more!

I'd like to lunch at a restaurant that does not cater solely to foreign tourists, or tour groups. And given my love for bisteeya, I'm dreaming of ordering this for lunch. If anyone has a recommendation for a restaurant serving this dish (or any restaurant; I can take a look at their menu once I have the name). One place I have in mind is Al Maimouni, but I'm open to anything. Food is more important than views, for me.

Thanks so much, in advance, for helping me to decide whether or not go take the trip!!

bilboburgler

Africa forum perhaps

ekscrunchy

I explained, above, why Ii posted this query on the Europe/Spain forum; I would have also included it in Middle East/Africa but was unable to add it to 2 categories at once.

<<(I've posted this query on the Spain forum since it gets much more traffic than Africa/Middle East forums).>>

raincitygirl

We were in Tangier in August. Our son's father in law is Moroccan so we were all together and with his family who live there. One of his cousins took us to this place for dinner and I see they are open for lunch too - Restaurant Palais Zahia, in a riad called Palais Zahia. We sat up on the rooftop terrace and it was lovely. The riad is very pretty with a central light shaft and beautiful lanterns, tiles etc. The food was good, we had Bissara, the fava bean and split pea soup and a tagine. On Trip Advisor someone mentioned having Pastilla for lunch so maybe you can check out the reviews there.
The address is Rue de la Marine No 72, Place Souk Dakhel, Tangier. We were dropped off at the marina front promenade and made our way there through the medina, it wasn't far.
We were very lucky to have had a seafood Pastilla at another cousins hotel where we all stayed, he had the chef make it for us as a first course in a big family dinner. I had never had it before- so tasty.

I didn't shop in this medina but it seemed to have lots to look at; our son spent most of the afternoon there one day but he was mainly buying rugs. Of course he got in trouble/laughed at when he got back to the hotel and all the Moroccan family wanted to know how much he paid for each one. "Too much, too much!" It did look like Tangier has had a refresh, the marina/waterfront area in front of the Kasbah looks pretty newly done, it was nice, then you kind of climb up into the medina, it looked somewhat cleaner and more appealing than the one in Casablanca. The family were all saying the King has been investing lots of money in capital projects, son's father in law couldn't believe how his home town of Rabat has been spruced up.
I can't comment on Tijuana, having only seen it in photos and in movies but what I saw of Tangier wouldn't make me compare the two.

neckervd

Tanger is not a typical Moroccan city, nor a particular gem, but it's not ugly neither.
But you can easily spend 7 hrs there by visiting, shopping and eating.
Tetouan would be much more "Moroccan", but it's about 1 hr by louage (shared taxi) from either Tanger bus Terminal od Ceuta/Fnidek border.

ekscrunchy

Rainycitygirl:

Thank you ever so much for all of the information you provided yesterday! Now I am certainly leaning towards taking that day trip! And I will certainly check out the restaurant that you recommended, Restaurant Palais Zahia.

And Neckervd, you are always so helpful on these forums..thank you for your comments!

raincitygirl

ekscrunchy, you are welcome, I hope you have a really good time.