Croatian Trip Report Part 2
Oct 15th, 2004, 03:41 PM
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Croatian Trip Report Part 2
Croatian Trip Report Part 2
I realize I neglected to put the dates of our trip in the first part of this trip report so you can judge weather, crowds, etc. We left on September 19th and returned on October the 7th.
A few more words about our home stay are in order. The food we were served was delightful. For breakfast we would have hard-boiled eggs, various kinds of cheeses, small sausages, local honey and other home-grown fruit such as apples and dried figs. Dalmatian ham was usually on the table as well. It is similar to the dried ham one gets in Spain. Marita and Jerry had several whole hams hanging in their cellar from a pig they had purchased the year before. Since the climate along the coast is not suitable for curing them, they took them to friends in the mountains who dried them over smoke from special woods.
The hosts also raised quail, as it is believed in parts of Croatia that raw quail eggs are the answer to healthy living. Marita would break four or five of the tiny speckled things into a small glass and pour in some sort of fruit juice. One would take a deep breath and they would slide down with no taste and only a small sensation of the yolks bumping across your tonsils. I had them every morning. Tammy tried one.
Once.
For lunch, typically the day's big meal, a typical meal would be beef soup with home-made noodles, beef sautéed in a delicious brown sauce, roast potatoes, crusty bread, sweet peppers sautéed lightly with oil and garlic (better than it sounds), red and white wines and fresh fruit served at their outside table under a thick overhanging kiwi tree. Marita kept complaining that Tammy, ?Ate like a bird?. I ate like a bird too --- a vulture.
One day when there were no big activities planned several couples took the bus to the town of Korcula on the other end of the island. The trip took about an hour and a half to cover the 30 miles, and cost 54 Kuna for the two of us, one way. Korcula is a lovely walled town with lots of churches, museums, shops and restaurants to keep one busy. We wandered around for a bit, but split from the other couples after awhile.
Tammy had been thinking about getting our son, Steve, a Prim as a surprise gift. Never heard of a Prim? I?m not surprised. A Prim (pronounced: preem) is a small Croatian musical instrument that looks like a cross between a Ukulele and a Mandolin. Steve plays a borrowed one in the Croatian orchestra in the Seattle area, and had said he would like to get one of his own someday. Any Mother who hears those words is lost, as is the accompanying Husband!
The evening before, the son of our host had brought his girlfriend to dinner. The girlfriend lives in Korcula, and said she had heard of a fellow in a town nearby, named Nicolai, who made the instruments. We had already asked in Vela Luka, and nobody had any clue as to where such a thing could be found. On impulse, Tammy said, ?Let?s go to Lombardo and look up Nicolai, the Prim maker!? Off we went to the station and caught the next bus to Lombardo, about a 20 minute ride. We got off at Lombardo stop, and went to a nearby tourist bureau. The young lady did not know what a Prim was, and had never heard of a maker named Nicolai. We started walking in the hot sun along the palm-lined promenade beside the sea, admiring the beautiful views, the blue and green clear water, and the many Oceanside chalets and rocky swimming places. It is truly a lovely, lovely place! After about a mile, hot and a bit discouraged, we stopped at an outdoor restaurant to have a beet and a soft drink. We asked the young waiter about Prims and Nicolai. He knew about neither, but he asked an older cook who knew what a Prim was ? but no Nicolai. A bit dejected at our futile search, we started back toward the bus stop. I suggested we either stop at the Post Office and inquire, or just stand on the street corner and shout, ?NICOLAI!!!!!?.
Well, the Poste was closed and, as we stood waiting for the return bus, I wandered into a market to get some bottled water. I asked the checkout lady our standard question. She said she didn?t know any Nicolai, but turned and shouted to a lady customer. The lady said, ?Sure, that?s my Brother?. We explained our quest and she used her cell phone to call her Brother?s house, only to learn he was at the seafront working on his boat. She accompanied us about a hundred meters to the boat, and introduced us to Nicolai, himself.
You can tell from this story that Korcula is a small island.
Nicolai said he only made Prims in winter. He had two at the moment, but was playing them. He gave us his number and said we could contact him later in the year, but also told us that he thought a music store in Split might have Prims, and described generally where it was.
Back to Korcula where we spent the rest of the afternoon exploring, drinking mineral water at outdoor tables, and shopping for earrings, as a certain shop had been recommended as having very special workmanship and reasonable prices on gold objects.
We caught the 6:00 bus back to Korcula. We had gelatos before we left because we assumed we would be much too late for dinner. To our surprise, there was a huge meal awaiting us, including chicken, rabbit, cevapcici (a most delicious Croatian sausage), roast potatos, etc. All of these were prepared in the traditional Croatian way, in a fireplace in the separate kitchen, under a steel dome-like dutch oven that is covered with hot coals. We ate and ate! After dinner Tammy presented a gift to our hosts. She is a glass artist and had made a slumped presentation plate with the islands of Korcula and Fidalgo (That?s where Anacortes is) outlined and inscribed to Marita and Jerry. It was a big hit, and the next morning we found it enshrined on a stand in their hallway along with other family treasures.
On 9/26, Sunday, we were up at 06:30 to catch the 08:00 ferry to Hvar. Marita and Jerry walked us to the dock. Lots of teary hugs, and promises, and gifts of their own olive oil, as they said goodbye.
Took just over 45 minutes to Hvar, on the catamaran and cost 44 Kuna for the two of us. A rather rolley trip from the swells left over from a high winds the day before. What a wonderfully compact town it is, penned in by the old city walls that march straight up the mountain! Most intriguing, coming in from the sea.
There were no sobe sellers at the dock that early, so we sat at a café and got a coffee and directions to the Tourist Office. I had noticed the ferry ticked office was next door, so I walked over and got two ticket to Split on the 1:00 catamaran the next day. Cost 54 Kunas for two tickets. We then wandered about 100 yards to the main square and into the well appointed Tourist Office, where a nice young lady, after asking what our needs were, picked up a telephone to call someone. She said the room would be nice and would cost about 100 Kuna each. She said we should walk across the square and sit on a white bench, and someone would come for us. We did so, and within a few moments a nice older woman came down the street, grabbed Tammy?s bag by the handle and trundled it off down the street to her house about 50 meters down a street parallel to the harbor. The charge for a neat two-bed room, bath down stairs, was 100 Kuna/person, plus 30% for less than three days stay, plus 10 Kuna tax. Came to 250 Kuna for the night ? about 42 bucks.
She gave us keys to the room and one for the front door. We dumped our bags and headed for the action. The sun was a bit bright, so I went back for my sunglasses. Damned if I could remember which door was ours. Now I understand why so few people who recommend particular sobes give an address. Many of the houses are not numbered or marked. Same with many smaller streets. I waited until there was nobody on the street and took my best shot. It was a relief when the key turned in the first lock I tried.
We walked along the front to the north along a paved and well maintained path that hugs the shore along a lovely coastline. We climbed to the top of the castle and bought lavender from a vendor as gifts. Lavender oil is one of the few products of Hvar, which has no industry other than agriculture and tourism. We got a number of bunches of lavender blossoms that had the stems tied together and the stems bent back over the blossoms and tied again, forming a cage through which the scent escapes. Make pleasant gifts that are light to carry.
We were really looking forward to going to the Carpe Diem, whose praises as a wild and wooly club where the jet set hangs out have been touted in magazines and this Forum. We asked a waiter on the front where it was. He said it was right next door, but it had closed the night before for the season! Well, crap! I may be a little long in the tooth for the wild life, but I was really looking forward to trying a taste. To soothe our disappointment, we ate lunch in a really charming patio under a cover of lime trees. I had a beer, seafood risotto, and a salad, while Tammy had some really lovely mushroom soup and ?Adriatic Toast?. That was Thick toast topped with fresh tuna, tomato and, of course, olive oil. All quite good at 190 Kuna
That evening we went to a concert in the chapel of the Franciscan monastery, by a truly gifted guitarist named Tvrtko Saric. He was truly remarkable! The chapel was elaborately decorated, with a rendition of the Last Supper on the wall behind him. I could have sworn I could hear a piano accompanying him, but those wonderful sounds were all coming from his guitar. We spoke to him on the ferry going to Split the next day, and had him autograph his album we had bought at the concert. He will be doing a tour of the U.S. next year.
We shopped and hung around the harbor the next morning, sitting at an outdoor café having a coffee while the boats in the harbor jockeyed for position at the quay, and many yachts trying to find a place to drop an anchor. Much different from when I had tied to the quay in 1973. I think I was the only yacht in the harbor at the time. There were certainly not the rows of fancy restaurants either, under Tito. It was raining lightly, so we found an internet café and e-mailed Marita and Jerry in Vela Luka, saying we hoped it was raining hard there because their vines and olive trees had been suffering badly when we left.
Left for Split at 1:00 on the catamaran passenger ferry.
I?ll close this portion as it is getting a bit lengthy. I?ll take up Split and Trogir and the further tale of the search for the mythical Prim in Part 3.
I realize I neglected to put the dates of our trip in the first part of this trip report so you can judge weather, crowds, etc. We left on September 19th and returned on October the 7th.
A few more words about our home stay are in order. The food we were served was delightful. For breakfast we would have hard-boiled eggs, various kinds of cheeses, small sausages, local honey and other home-grown fruit such as apples and dried figs. Dalmatian ham was usually on the table as well. It is similar to the dried ham one gets in Spain. Marita and Jerry had several whole hams hanging in their cellar from a pig they had purchased the year before. Since the climate along the coast is not suitable for curing them, they took them to friends in the mountains who dried them over smoke from special woods.
The hosts also raised quail, as it is believed in parts of Croatia that raw quail eggs are the answer to healthy living. Marita would break four or five of the tiny speckled things into a small glass and pour in some sort of fruit juice. One would take a deep breath and they would slide down with no taste and only a small sensation of the yolks bumping across your tonsils. I had them every morning. Tammy tried one.
Once.
For lunch, typically the day's big meal, a typical meal would be beef soup with home-made noodles, beef sautéed in a delicious brown sauce, roast potatoes, crusty bread, sweet peppers sautéed lightly with oil and garlic (better than it sounds), red and white wines and fresh fruit served at their outside table under a thick overhanging kiwi tree. Marita kept complaining that Tammy, ?Ate like a bird?. I ate like a bird too --- a vulture.
One day when there were no big activities planned several couples took the bus to the town of Korcula on the other end of the island. The trip took about an hour and a half to cover the 30 miles, and cost 54 Kuna for the two of us, one way. Korcula is a lovely walled town with lots of churches, museums, shops and restaurants to keep one busy. We wandered around for a bit, but split from the other couples after awhile.
Tammy had been thinking about getting our son, Steve, a Prim as a surprise gift. Never heard of a Prim? I?m not surprised. A Prim (pronounced: preem) is a small Croatian musical instrument that looks like a cross between a Ukulele and a Mandolin. Steve plays a borrowed one in the Croatian orchestra in the Seattle area, and had said he would like to get one of his own someday. Any Mother who hears those words is lost, as is the accompanying Husband!
The evening before, the son of our host had brought his girlfriend to dinner. The girlfriend lives in Korcula, and said she had heard of a fellow in a town nearby, named Nicolai, who made the instruments. We had already asked in Vela Luka, and nobody had any clue as to where such a thing could be found. On impulse, Tammy said, ?Let?s go to Lombardo and look up Nicolai, the Prim maker!? Off we went to the station and caught the next bus to Lombardo, about a 20 minute ride. We got off at Lombardo stop, and went to a nearby tourist bureau. The young lady did not know what a Prim was, and had never heard of a maker named Nicolai. We started walking in the hot sun along the palm-lined promenade beside the sea, admiring the beautiful views, the blue and green clear water, and the many Oceanside chalets and rocky swimming places. It is truly a lovely, lovely place! After about a mile, hot and a bit discouraged, we stopped at an outdoor restaurant to have a beet and a soft drink. We asked the young waiter about Prims and Nicolai. He knew about neither, but he asked an older cook who knew what a Prim was ? but no Nicolai. A bit dejected at our futile search, we started back toward the bus stop. I suggested we either stop at the Post Office and inquire, or just stand on the street corner and shout, ?NICOLAI!!!!!?.
Well, the Poste was closed and, as we stood waiting for the return bus, I wandered into a market to get some bottled water. I asked the checkout lady our standard question. She said she didn?t know any Nicolai, but turned and shouted to a lady customer. The lady said, ?Sure, that?s my Brother?. We explained our quest and she used her cell phone to call her Brother?s house, only to learn he was at the seafront working on his boat. She accompanied us about a hundred meters to the boat, and introduced us to Nicolai, himself.
You can tell from this story that Korcula is a small island.
Nicolai said he only made Prims in winter. He had two at the moment, but was playing them. He gave us his number and said we could contact him later in the year, but also told us that he thought a music store in Split might have Prims, and described generally where it was.
Back to Korcula where we spent the rest of the afternoon exploring, drinking mineral water at outdoor tables, and shopping for earrings, as a certain shop had been recommended as having very special workmanship and reasonable prices on gold objects.
We caught the 6:00 bus back to Korcula. We had gelatos before we left because we assumed we would be much too late for dinner. To our surprise, there was a huge meal awaiting us, including chicken, rabbit, cevapcici (a most delicious Croatian sausage), roast potatos, etc. All of these were prepared in the traditional Croatian way, in a fireplace in the separate kitchen, under a steel dome-like dutch oven that is covered with hot coals. We ate and ate! After dinner Tammy presented a gift to our hosts. She is a glass artist and had made a slumped presentation plate with the islands of Korcula and Fidalgo (That?s where Anacortes is) outlined and inscribed to Marita and Jerry. It was a big hit, and the next morning we found it enshrined on a stand in their hallway along with other family treasures.
On 9/26, Sunday, we were up at 06:30 to catch the 08:00 ferry to Hvar. Marita and Jerry walked us to the dock. Lots of teary hugs, and promises, and gifts of their own olive oil, as they said goodbye.
Took just over 45 minutes to Hvar, on the catamaran and cost 44 Kuna for the two of us. A rather rolley trip from the swells left over from a high winds the day before. What a wonderfully compact town it is, penned in by the old city walls that march straight up the mountain! Most intriguing, coming in from the sea.
There were no sobe sellers at the dock that early, so we sat at a café and got a coffee and directions to the Tourist Office. I had noticed the ferry ticked office was next door, so I walked over and got two ticket to Split on the 1:00 catamaran the next day. Cost 54 Kunas for two tickets. We then wandered about 100 yards to the main square and into the well appointed Tourist Office, where a nice young lady, after asking what our needs were, picked up a telephone to call someone. She said the room would be nice and would cost about 100 Kuna each. She said we should walk across the square and sit on a white bench, and someone would come for us. We did so, and within a few moments a nice older woman came down the street, grabbed Tammy?s bag by the handle and trundled it off down the street to her house about 50 meters down a street parallel to the harbor. The charge for a neat two-bed room, bath down stairs, was 100 Kuna/person, plus 30% for less than three days stay, plus 10 Kuna tax. Came to 250 Kuna for the night ? about 42 bucks.
She gave us keys to the room and one for the front door. We dumped our bags and headed for the action. The sun was a bit bright, so I went back for my sunglasses. Damned if I could remember which door was ours. Now I understand why so few people who recommend particular sobes give an address. Many of the houses are not numbered or marked. Same with many smaller streets. I waited until there was nobody on the street and took my best shot. It was a relief when the key turned in the first lock I tried.
We walked along the front to the north along a paved and well maintained path that hugs the shore along a lovely coastline. We climbed to the top of the castle and bought lavender from a vendor as gifts. Lavender oil is one of the few products of Hvar, which has no industry other than agriculture and tourism. We got a number of bunches of lavender blossoms that had the stems tied together and the stems bent back over the blossoms and tied again, forming a cage through which the scent escapes. Make pleasant gifts that are light to carry.
We were really looking forward to going to the Carpe Diem, whose praises as a wild and wooly club where the jet set hangs out have been touted in magazines and this Forum. We asked a waiter on the front where it was. He said it was right next door, but it had closed the night before for the season! Well, crap! I may be a little long in the tooth for the wild life, but I was really looking forward to trying a taste. To soothe our disappointment, we ate lunch in a really charming patio under a cover of lime trees. I had a beer, seafood risotto, and a salad, while Tammy had some really lovely mushroom soup and ?Adriatic Toast?. That was Thick toast topped with fresh tuna, tomato and, of course, olive oil. All quite good at 190 Kuna
That evening we went to a concert in the chapel of the Franciscan monastery, by a truly gifted guitarist named Tvrtko Saric. He was truly remarkable! The chapel was elaborately decorated, with a rendition of the Last Supper on the wall behind him. I could have sworn I could hear a piano accompanying him, but those wonderful sounds were all coming from his guitar. We spoke to him on the ferry going to Split the next day, and had him autograph his album we had bought at the concert. He will be doing a tour of the U.S. next year.
We shopped and hung around the harbor the next morning, sitting at an outdoor café having a coffee while the boats in the harbor jockeyed for position at the quay, and many yachts trying to find a place to drop an anchor. Much different from when I had tied to the quay in 1973. I think I was the only yacht in the harbor at the time. There were certainly not the rows of fancy restaurants either, under Tito. It was raining lightly, so we found an internet café and e-mailed Marita and Jerry in Vela Luka, saying we hoped it was raining hard there because their vines and olive trees had been suffering badly when we left.
Left for Split at 1:00 on the catamaran passenger ferry.
I?ll close this portion as it is getting a bit lengthy. I?ll take up Split and Trogir and the further tale of the search for the mythical Prim in Part 3.
Oct 16th, 2004, 08:16 AM
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Enjoyed Parts 1 & 2 and look forward to more. I'm printing them and saving them for use in planning my own trip, probably to take place next spring. Thanks for sharing your experiences in such a rewarding way!
Oct 16th, 2004, 11:09 AM
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Thanks, Mike, for the kind words. I have a feeling I'm going a bit overboard and lengthy on these reports, but as I go over my notes I think others could perhaps make use of some of our experiences. Besides, we had such a good time that I feel the need to share those things that so delighted us.
I'm now working on Part 6, but I have to pass each portion throgh Tammy for an accuracy check before I send them off, and she is up to her elbows racing to complete art glass commisions on which she has promised delivery.
Nukesafe
I'm now working on Part 6, but I have to pass each portion throgh Tammy for an accuracy check before I send them off, and she is up to her elbows racing to complete art glass commisions on which she has promised delivery.
Nukesafe
Oct 16th, 2004, 03:35 PM
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nukesafe,
<i>I have a feeling I'm going a bit overboard and lengthy on these reports</i>
Your reports impart what you experienced rather than simply what you saw or did. Keep 'em up and don't worry about the length.
<i>I have a feeling I'm going a bit overboard and lengthy on these reports</i>
Your reports impart what you experienced rather than simply what you saw or did. Keep 'em up and don't worry about the length.
Oct 16th, 2004, 11:25 PM
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Pat,
Sorry, as I think I said, the house in Hvar where we rented a room didn't have a number on it, much less a name. The landlord took our passports to fill out her paperwork, but there never is any sort of reciept at these places -- other than in the big hotels, and a hand written one from Mr. Tomsic at the Villa Adriatica. Best I can do is to tell you if you stand outside the Tourist Office, which is in the main square in Hvar, and look katty-corner across the square, you will see some steps, and a white bench that sits in front of a wall just up the steps from a news stand. The sobe we stayed at is on the left side of the street, along the street behind the bench about 30 yards, just past a restaurant on the right.
Perhaps if you repeat these rather pitiful directions to the ladies in the Tourist Office they will recognize the sobe.
Best of luck
Nukesafe
Sorry, as I think I said, the house in Hvar where we rented a room didn't have a number on it, much less a name. The landlord took our passports to fill out her paperwork, but there never is any sort of reciept at these places -- other than in the big hotels, and a hand written one from Mr. Tomsic at the Villa Adriatica. Best I can do is to tell you if you stand outside the Tourist Office, which is in the main square in Hvar, and look katty-corner across the square, you will see some steps, and a white bench that sits in front of a wall just up the steps from a news stand. The sobe we stayed at is on the left side of the street, along the street behind the bench about 30 yards, just past a restaurant on the right.
Perhaps if you repeat these rather pitiful directions to the ladies in the Tourist Office they will recognize the sobe.
Best of luck
Nukesafe
Oct 17th, 2004, 12:43 AM
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nukesafe, please, don't make your next reports any shorter. I truly mean that! I really feel like I have taken this beautiful trip myself. It is almost 2:00am here in CA., staying awake because I have to make an international phone call (Italy) and easier to stay awake than go to bed and than wake up, make the call, and than go back to sleep. Thanks to your wonderful post I forgot how tired I was.
Obviously I am not the only one who enjoys your trip description.
Obviously I am not the only one who enjoys your trip description.
Oct 17th, 2004, 08:56 AM
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I don't suppose that you are taking requests on which parts come next. I'm leaving for Istria and Plitvice on Friday, so any insight that you may have on them prior to my departure would be much appreciated. Tim
Oct 17th, 2004, 10:30 AM
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Timtodd,
I'm about to post Part 3 of our trip report, but unfortunately we did not get to either Ietria or Plitvice. Part three covers mostly Split and Torgir.
Hope you have a wonderful trip.
Nukesafe
I'm about to post Part 3 of our trip report, but unfortunately we did not get to either Ietria or Plitvice. Part three covers mostly Split and Torgir.
Hope you have a wonderful trip.
Nukesafe
Oct 17th, 2004, 12:54 PM
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I've been following along on your trip report - excellent, excellent, excellent. I agree with the others: don't cut down on the content!
I especially enjoyed Part 2 as Korcula was one of the highlights of a trip I made there last year. I, too, did not have Croatia high on my list of destinations, but circumstances led me there. Hurray for circumstances.
I smiled at the description of Lumbarda - this is the seaside town I stayed in for 5 days. Loved the fact that the village is a series of coves and vineyards and villas. Everyone did know everyone, so it doesn't surprise me you found Nicolai.
Korcula Town is out of a storeybook, if you ask me. I look forward to returning some day.
Thanks again for bringing me back!
Regards, Bruce
Croatia Travel Photos - http://www.brucegcollier.com/galleri...level2_all.htm
I especially enjoyed Part 2 as Korcula was one of the highlights of a trip I made there last year. I, too, did not have Croatia high on my list of destinations, but circumstances led me there. Hurray for circumstances.
I smiled at the description of Lumbarda - this is the seaside town I stayed in for 5 days. Loved the fact that the village is a series of coves and vineyards and villas. Everyone did know everyone, so it doesn't surprise me you found Nicolai.
Korcula Town is out of a storeybook, if you ask me. I look forward to returning some day.
Thanks again for bringing me back!
Regards, Bruce
Croatia Travel Photos - http://www.brucegcollier.com/galleri...level2_all.htm
Oct 17th, 2004, 05:09 PM
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nukesafe: Don't leave out anything. The longer, the more information and those of us that are planning our own trips to the area hang on every word. Fantastic report so far. Thanks for your contribution.
Oct 18th, 2004, 04:26 PM
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bg collier,
Thanks, Bruce, for your kind words. I especially ws interested in your description of Lumbarda, as we too thought it would be a wonderful place to stay and unwind, someday.
Thank you, as well for including the link to your photos. In particular, I thought the black and white shots to be truly outstanding.
Hope we all can get back there someday.
Dick
Thanks, Bruce, for your kind words. I especially ws interested in your description of Lumbarda, as we too thought it would be a wonderful place to stay and unwind, someday.
Thank you, as well for including the link to your photos. In particular, I thought the black and white shots to be truly outstanding.
Hope we all can get back there someday.
Dick
Oct 19th, 2004, 03:51 PM
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Added to your part 1 - - while I prefer trip reports all on the same thread, you are obviously getting a lot of positive feedback on your writing, so maybe this will help "newbies" to find the further installments...
=======================
For those less experienced on this forum who don't know about finding your additional "installments" by clicking on your name (and of course, that will be come less user-friendly in the future if you post here a lot) - - the third installment is at http://www.fodors.com/forums/pgMessa...p;tid=34535714
Best wishes,
Rex
=======================
For those less experienced on this forum who don't know about finding your additional "installments" by clicking on your name (and of course, that will be come less user-friendly in the future if you post here a lot) - - the third installment is at http://www.fodors.com/forums/pgMessa...p;tid=34535714
Best wishes,
Rex
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