Croatia (Dubrovnik and Hvar) Trip Report - Already Planning our Return! :)
Jan 22nd, 2008, 01:06 PM
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Croatia (Dubrovnik and Hvar) Trip Report - Already Planning our Return! :)
Having had such an incredible time during our first visit to Croatia I’m compelled to take a stab at my very first trip report. Sorry in advance; I have a tendency to ramble so this turned out a lot longer than I’d planned.
First, a little background:
We’re a married couple in our early 30’s currently living in El Paso, Texas after 10+ years in Miami/South Florida. Limited vacation time (I recently heard a depressing statistic that the average American gets only 88 weeks of vacation over a lifetime, a third of what the average European enjoys) means we only get 10 to 14 days a year in Europe, so we usually cram as much as we can into each trip. We’re independent travelers; our typical MO is rent a car and go, only booking rooms if: (a) there’s a hotel we particularly want to visit (i.e. Portrait Suites in Rome); (b) the city has a shortfall of nice-but-still-reasonably-priced easy-to-find rooms (i.e. Venice); or (c) we can take advantage of hotel points.
With that background, off we go…
Initial planning of our end-September 07 trip lead to the disappointing discovery that not only did our move from Florida to West Texas involve the devastating loss of beach access, we’d also have a much tougher time getting overseas. Hence, the beginning of our adventure involved two days flying from El Paso, to Houston, to London, to Rome, with an arrival perfectly timed to deposit us smack in the middle of an Italian traffic gridlock. Our expectation of a frustrating hour in the backseat of a car was for naught, thanks to the brilliance of our driver, who’d been arranged in advance by our hotel for only 10E more than a cab would have cost. He doubled as a private tour guide, and with his constant (and riveting) commentary we didn’t even notice the hour-long traffic delay! There’s something about a local so in love with his home that is infectious; by the time we were deposited at the Portrait Suites, Rome had gotten into our blood.
The Portrait Suites is a 14-room boutique hotel off Via Condotti above the Ferragamo store. I could go on for pages about the place; suffice it to say it had undoubtedly the best service, accommodation and location of any place we’d ever stayed (see my Tripadvisor review or drop me an email for more details). After our private check-in (champagne included) and personal tour of our complimentarily upgraded suite, we took the hotel-provided black umbrella and, feeling a bit like Gene Kelly, headed out for dinner and a walk. We spent the next few days falling in love with the Pantheon, the Forum, the Colosseum, Spaghetteria in Trastevere and the rooftop bar at the Portrait Suites (reason enough to stay there). A friend from Geneva met us for a day and we got lost amid the narrow roads around Campo di’Fiori. The following day found us passing through Pompeii (amazing!) en route to Bari to catch the Jadrolinija ferry to Dubrovnik, beginning the Croatian leg of our adventure.
We boarded the ferry at Bari for a 21:00 departure. Unsure of what accommodations would be like on a Croatian overnight ferry we splurged and booked the best cabins available for both legs, which was a “Luxury” for the outgoing leg from Bari to Dubrovnik and a “LX2” for the return from Split to Ancona. The total cost for both cabins plus car passage was EUR-509, more than double what we would have paid had we booked ordinary staterooms. If we had to do it again, we’d save the money and book regular rooms, as I can’t imagine much difference between them. The boat on the outgoing leg was old and worn. The room was small with two miniature beds, tiny windows, a small closet and a bathroom with toilet, sink and tub (yes, a tub!). The ship we took on the return was definitely newer than the outgoing ship but still pretty tired. The room was a bit larger than the first though with the same small beds and had a TV and (empty) mini-fridge (neither of which we used). Overpriced accommodations aside, the boat trip was actually a blast and we found it a fantastic way to get to Croatia from the Italian mainland. We had a great dinner (schnitzel and fresh salad with a starter of Pag cheese) in the on-board restaurant where we had our first (but definitely not last) taste of Croatian wine. To sum it up: I’d definitely recommend taking an overnight ferry to get to Croatia from Italy, but book a regular room, fix your expectations accordingly, drink some good Croatian wine, practice your Croatian basics with the incredibly friendly staff and just enjoy the ride (you’ll be sleeping through most of it anyway).
We got into port before 7 AM, drove off the ship and sailed easily through customs. We drove straight to the hotel (Hilton Imperial Palace), checked in and had the pleasant surprise of our room being immediately available. A note about the hotel: though we usually shy away from chain hotels in favor of smaller boutiques, we had enough Hilton points to stay for free so figured it was worth the departure. It was a pleasant surprise, having been newly renovated with rooms that were clean and very well-appointed with comfortable beds and fantastic water pressure. The best part was the location, a block or so away from Ploce Gate and across the street from one of the best restaurants in Croatia (more on that later). Having caught a glimpse of both the crystal Adriatic and the majestic Old Town walls on our way in, we dropped our bags in the room and immediately set off.
First order of business: walking the walls. It was still pretty early (7:30 AM) with a brilliant sun shining off the sea like glass. I’d highly recommend making the walk this early, as we were completely alone most of the time, making for an almost cosmic connection with the city. We took our time, snapped a million photos/video clips and stood around staring at the spectacular contrast of terra cotta roof, ivory wall and cerulean sea. We followed the walls with a walk down the Stradun and were delighted to find a concert in progress on the steps of St. Blaise. We took a seat at one of the cafes and let the experience sink in. Later, we walked the streets before stopping for lunch at Pupo. I’ll confess to selecting Pupo after having seen it on Three Sheets with Zane Lamprey, a travel show I love. The pizza was decent but the calamari was divine, all washed down with a free sample of homemade herb-ish liquor. We spent the rest of the day as one should in Dubrovnik, slipping through old streets, sitting at cafes and having a drink perched on the edge of the Adriatic at Buza Bar (follow the Cold Drinks sign near the cathedral). A few Ozujsko’s later we headed back to rest and wash for dinner.
I’m an obsessive researcher and read much about dining in Dubrovnik before we arrived. Having recalled good reviews on Atlas Club Nautika I asked the concierge her opinion of the place, upon which she beamed brightly, threw her hands in the air and declared it the “greatest restaurant in the land.” Approbation enough for me, so we set off across the street hoping we wouldn’t need a reservation to get in. We were immediately seated on the terrace outside, in the shadow of the walls with the Adriatic rhythmically crashing below us. The concierge was spot on: it was, indeed, one of the best meals we had all trip. They kicked things off with a complimentary amuse bouche of shrimp in mascarpone with some type of oil (basil, I believe). As hubby is allergic to seafood I happily inhaled his, as well as my own. The server suggested shrimp risotto for my entrée (luckily, one of the cheapest items on the menu) and it was probably the best risotto I’d ever had. Hubby had a fantastic turkey in sauce (I think peppercorn). We split the first of many bottles of Posip Cara we’d have over the trip and finished with a heavenly cream cake dessert. I’m not too into dessert wine, at least I wasn’t until this trip, but we were again given complimentary after dinner drinks (must be a national requirement as we were given free alcohol in one form or another almost every place we went) upon which I immediately fell in love with Prosek, a sweet Croatian wine. We finished dinner stuffed but happy as can be.
Earlier that day we’d seen a neat looking place high up in the walls and following dinner were determined to find it. I am directionally challenged so followed as hubby navigated to the entrance of Labirint, one of the neatest restaurant/bars we’d ever visited (http://www.labirint-dubrovnik.com/). Wedged against the walls, the place blended ancient stone with contemporary design, something both of us love. We had a few drinks on outdoor sofas in the adjoining club listening to house/techno music while looking out over placid water below, dreaming of how we could possibly sell up in the States and move to Croatia. We finished the night at Poliskar, soon to become one of our favorite places in town, a restaurant right on the harbor with live music, great staff and even better food. If you’re in Dubrovnik, don’t miss this place.
Hubby was a fish in a previous life, so our first order of business the following morning was a boat tour. The boat he picked was an inflatable fast boat that sat about 20, but it turned out we were the only ones who’d signed up. This turned into a blessing even though it cost us a bit more $$, as the now private tour meant intimate discussions with the captain and his friend about Dubrovnik and the war (at their initiation, I should add, as I understand it’s sometimes offensive for outsiders to bring up the war). There’s nothing quite like getting to know the people who call Dubrovnik home: our captain pointed out the place from which the Serbs fired on Old Town during the war and proudly exclaimed how the walls had once again protected Croatians as they had for hundreds of years. They sped us through the harbor, past Old Town and completely around Lokrum, an island just off shore. They filled us in on Lokrum’s history and the folklore surrounding it. Time for a warning: there is a nude beach section of Lokrum which I didn’t realize existed until I’d snapped about thirty pictures of the shoreline from the boat, which we immediately deleted (it’s incredibly bad taste to shoot photos of a nude beach). Enough said. You’ve been warned.
The captain had told us we couldn’t leave Dubrovnik without going to Lokrum. After returning to the harbor we grabbed lunch at Poliskar (salad and a heavenly, peppered pizza) and complied with the captain’s demand, hopping on the ferry to the island. I should note the weather this time of year (last week in September) was perfect: warm, low humidity, high 70’s, not a minute of rain the whole time. We walked the island, hiking over rocks along the shore and even past a picturesque grotto (wear comfy shoes). As always, hubby was aching to get into the water but I hadn’t brought a suit. Easy for him, as shorts are a simple substitute but I was forced into a difficult decision: forego the incredible experience of jumping into the Adriatic or suck up my modesty and dive in in my underclothes (though I was only wearing bottoms). I realized then that I’d fortuitously layered my tank tops that day so left my shorts and one of the tanks on the rocks and jumped in. The water was incredibly cold but in light of our recent departure from watery surroundings back home, we couldn’t pass up the opportunity to swim in some of the clearest water we’d ever seen. After a while I climbed out, only to realize the white tank I was wearing had now become completely see-through. Luckily, this was Europe and instead of being hauled off for indecent exposure I simply switched into the dry, opaque tank and sprawled out on the rocks to soak in the sun. It took some serious coaxing to get hubby out of the water in time to catch the boat back to the harbor, and we made it with minutes to spare.
The night before, we’d made dinner reservations for Labirint to see if the food was as great as the atmosphere and drinks. But after two boat rides and a swim in the sea, we weren’t quite dressed for the place so opted to cancel the reservations and dine, instead, at Poliskar once again. Try their Shrimp Dubrovnik…it’s the best. One final note, I should probably mention the cats. There are tons of them in Old Town and we were lucky to have one of them as our dinner guest that evening. A little black kitten sat near our feet the entire meal and even jumped on the table once to pilfer some food before we could even react. Both of us are allergic to cats but there must be something in the air in Dubrovnik because it didn’t bother us a bit.
With reluctance we departed Dubrovnik the following day to head for the island of Hvar. We’d planned to drive up the cost to Split to catch the ferry to Hvar but were so reluctant to leave Dubrovnik that we left a little late, which I would caution against, as the drive is so majestic you’ll want to take your time. I’ve read questions on this Board about driving in Croatia and though I wasn’t the one behind the wheel (I’m almost as bad at driving as I am with directions) the roads on the mainland were in good condition, well signposted and, at that time of year, devoid of traffic. The roads on Hvar were a different story but more on that later. We passed through Bosnia and back into Croatia without incident (didn’t even get a stamp; they only looked at the (closed) passports in our hands and waived us through). After passing countless roadside stands with oranges hanging from them we decided we had to stop. Fate be damned, if we missed the ferry from Split, so be it. I’m very glad we did. As with everyone else we met in Croatia, the woman at the stand was incredibly nice, even offered to let me taste the drinks she was selling (hubby abstained as he was driving) before we settled on a bottle of a still-unknown type of liquor that made the trip with us back to the States. This is probably a good time to mention the people, who (as in most European countries we’ve visited) we found incredibly warm and welcoming. And even more than anywhere else, we found that making an effort at the language went a very long way with Croatians. Plus, trying to pronounce the phrases is a whole lot of fun so put on a smile and give it a go!
Back in the car and on the road again we spent the next hour ogling the scenery (keep an eye out for the world’s 2nd longest wall at Ston), aware that we would likely miss our ferry and only caring a little bit when we passed a sign on the side of the road with a picture of a boat. I grabbed the map and noted the city looked to be the closest to Hvar of any other city on the mainland. Hubby made a u-turn and we drove into the quaint port town. Bingo…there was a car ferry at the dock and a Jadrolinija office beside. I jumped out of the car and raced to the window. It was empty, so I stepped into the café next door and asked the waitress if there was a ferry to Hvar. She said yes, that it was leaving in less than an hour, that it only took 20 minutes to cross and that the ferry office would be open any minute. We split an Ozujsko while we waited, bought our tickets and before we knew it were sailing through clear water to Hvar. The city was Drvenik and it deposited us at Sucuraj on the Eastern coast of the island.
Hvar is stunning from the sea, but even more breathtaking from its high, winding roads due to the scenery as much as to the complete and utter lack of guardrails or shoulders on the road. I was relieved not to be behind the wheel, as there was a buffer of only inches between pavement and the sharp, downward slope of a mountain. The drive was long but enjoyable (at least from the passenger’s seat), and requires at least a few photo-op stops along the way. Before long we pulled into Hvar town, parked in the public lot and dragged our suitcases to the waterfront to hunt down our hotel. We’d selected the Riva Palace, a Suncani hotel, about which I’d read mixed reviews. Luckily, we experienced none of the negatives others had in the past. It’s a trendy, boutique-style hotel in an old building right on the waterside (as mentioned above, we’re partial to a blend of history and contemporary design and Riva fit the bill). Staff was incredibly friendly and offered us a complimentary upgrade to a large junior suite, though it wasn’t quite ready so we left our bags and set off to explore Hvar town. It’s an incredibly charming place, though small, and it didn’t take long to cover most of it. After a good meal near the water we checked in, washed up and headed out again to walk the waterfront. There are two other experiences not to be missed in Hvar: lounging on the comfy sofas at the Riva Hotel watching boats bobbing in the sea; and, dinner at Gariful’s (the floor inside the restaurant is an aquarium from which they pluck their fresh fish – we thoroughly enjoyed the Pag cheese starter, my monstrous lobster, hubby’s spaghetti carbonara, the bottle of Pocip Cara, dessert and, of course, the free and delicious after dinner drinks). The next day we rented a boat, a miniature thing with a tiny outboard motor but it only cost about US-$50 for half a day so we didn’t complain. As I mentioned, hubby has gills so he had no problem navigating through the harbor toward the islands the boat rental people suggested we visit (we were given a tiny paper map as our only implement of navigation but we were up for an adventure anyway). After an hour or so we passed a tiny cove on a little island off shore and immediately turned in. Not another soul around as far as we could see, we suddenly felt like Columbus exploring the Indies. The island was hilly, rocky ledges interspersed with vegetation hugging a small stretch of beach. To call the water clear is an understatement, to call the island heaven is a definitive truth. If there’s a navigator among your traveling companions, definitely rent a boat. It’s a way to see the islands from a whole different vantage point. To this day, I dream about that island.
Our Croatian vacation came to an end the following day (after a quick tour through Diocletian’s Palace in Split – really neat and deserving of more than the 1.5 hrs we had to spend there), as we had to fly to London to visit family before heading back across the pond. I am already, excitedly, researching a lengthier return, and plan to throw Istria into the mix. Sorry again for rambling but I just can’t say enough about the place. If there are any other details I can provide, drop me an email anytime. Cheers, and happy travels!
First, a little background:
We’re a married couple in our early 30’s currently living in El Paso, Texas after 10+ years in Miami/South Florida. Limited vacation time (I recently heard a depressing statistic that the average American gets only 88 weeks of vacation over a lifetime, a third of what the average European enjoys) means we only get 10 to 14 days a year in Europe, so we usually cram as much as we can into each trip. We’re independent travelers; our typical MO is rent a car and go, only booking rooms if: (a) there’s a hotel we particularly want to visit (i.e. Portrait Suites in Rome); (b) the city has a shortfall of nice-but-still-reasonably-priced easy-to-find rooms (i.e. Venice); or (c) we can take advantage of hotel points.
With that background, off we go…
Initial planning of our end-September 07 trip lead to the disappointing discovery that not only did our move from Florida to West Texas involve the devastating loss of beach access, we’d also have a much tougher time getting overseas. Hence, the beginning of our adventure involved two days flying from El Paso, to Houston, to London, to Rome, with an arrival perfectly timed to deposit us smack in the middle of an Italian traffic gridlock. Our expectation of a frustrating hour in the backseat of a car was for naught, thanks to the brilliance of our driver, who’d been arranged in advance by our hotel for only 10E more than a cab would have cost. He doubled as a private tour guide, and with his constant (and riveting) commentary we didn’t even notice the hour-long traffic delay! There’s something about a local so in love with his home that is infectious; by the time we were deposited at the Portrait Suites, Rome had gotten into our blood.
The Portrait Suites is a 14-room boutique hotel off Via Condotti above the Ferragamo store. I could go on for pages about the place; suffice it to say it had undoubtedly the best service, accommodation and location of any place we’d ever stayed (see my Tripadvisor review or drop me an email for more details). After our private check-in (champagne included) and personal tour of our complimentarily upgraded suite, we took the hotel-provided black umbrella and, feeling a bit like Gene Kelly, headed out for dinner and a walk. We spent the next few days falling in love with the Pantheon, the Forum, the Colosseum, Spaghetteria in Trastevere and the rooftop bar at the Portrait Suites (reason enough to stay there). A friend from Geneva met us for a day and we got lost amid the narrow roads around Campo di’Fiori. The following day found us passing through Pompeii (amazing!) en route to Bari to catch the Jadrolinija ferry to Dubrovnik, beginning the Croatian leg of our adventure.
We boarded the ferry at Bari for a 21:00 departure. Unsure of what accommodations would be like on a Croatian overnight ferry we splurged and booked the best cabins available for both legs, which was a “Luxury” for the outgoing leg from Bari to Dubrovnik and a “LX2” for the return from Split to Ancona. The total cost for both cabins plus car passage was EUR-509, more than double what we would have paid had we booked ordinary staterooms. If we had to do it again, we’d save the money and book regular rooms, as I can’t imagine much difference between them. The boat on the outgoing leg was old and worn. The room was small with two miniature beds, tiny windows, a small closet and a bathroom with toilet, sink and tub (yes, a tub!). The ship we took on the return was definitely newer than the outgoing ship but still pretty tired. The room was a bit larger than the first though with the same small beds and had a TV and (empty) mini-fridge (neither of which we used). Overpriced accommodations aside, the boat trip was actually a blast and we found it a fantastic way to get to Croatia from the Italian mainland. We had a great dinner (schnitzel and fresh salad with a starter of Pag cheese) in the on-board restaurant where we had our first (but definitely not last) taste of Croatian wine. To sum it up: I’d definitely recommend taking an overnight ferry to get to Croatia from Italy, but book a regular room, fix your expectations accordingly, drink some good Croatian wine, practice your Croatian basics with the incredibly friendly staff and just enjoy the ride (you’ll be sleeping through most of it anyway).
We got into port before 7 AM, drove off the ship and sailed easily through customs. We drove straight to the hotel (Hilton Imperial Palace), checked in and had the pleasant surprise of our room being immediately available. A note about the hotel: though we usually shy away from chain hotels in favor of smaller boutiques, we had enough Hilton points to stay for free so figured it was worth the departure. It was a pleasant surprise, having been newly renovated with rooms that were clean and very well-appointed with comfortable beds and fantastic water pressure. The best part was the location, a block or so away from Ploce Gate and across the street from one of the best restaurants in Croatia (more on that later). Having caught a glimpse of both the crystal Adriatic and the majestic Old Town walls on our way in, we dropped our bags in the room and immediately set off.
First order of business: walking the walls. It was still pretty early (7:30 AM) with a brilliant sun shining off the sea like glass. I’d highly recommend making the walk this early, as we were completely alone most of the time, making for an almost cosmic connection with the city. We took our time, snapped a million photos/video clips and stood around staring at the spectacular contrast of terra cotta roof, ivory wall and cerulean sea. We followed the walls with a walk down the Stradun and were delighted to find a concert in progress on the steps of St. Blaise. We took a seat at one of the cafes and let the experience sink in. Later, we walked the streets before stopping for lunch at Pupo. I’ll confess to selecting Pupo after having seen it on Three Sheets with Zane Lamprey, a travel show I love. The pizza was decent but the calamari was divine, all washed down with a free sample of homemade herb-ish liquor. We spent the rest of the day as one should in Dubrovnik, slipping through old streets, sitting at cafes and having a drink perched on the edge of the Adriatic at Buza Bar (follow the Cold Drinks sign near the cathedral). A few Ozujsko’s later we headed back to rest and wash for dinner.
I’m an obsessive researcher and read much about dining in Dubrovnik before we arrived. Having recalled good reviews on Atlas Club Nautika I asked the concierge her opinion of the place, upon which she beamed brightly, threw her hands in the air and declared it the “greatest restaurant in the land.” Approbation enough for me, so we set off across the street hoping we wouldn’t need a reservation to get in. We were immediately seated on the terrace outside, in the shadow of the walls with the Adriatic rhythmically crashing below us. The concierge was spot on: it was, indeed, one of the best meals we had all trip. They kicked things off with a complimentary amuse bouche of shrimp in mascarpone with some type of oil (basil, I believe). As hubby is allergic to seafood I happily inhaled his, as well as my own. The server suggested shrimp risotto for my entrée (luckily, one of the cheapest items on the menu) and it was probably the best risotto I’d ever had. Hubby had a fantastic turkey in sauce (I think peppercorn). We split the first of many bottles of Posip Cara we’d have over the trip and finished with a heavenly cream cake dessert. I’m not too into dessert wine, at least I wasn’t until this trip, but we were again given complimentary after dinner drinks (must be a national requirement as we were given free alcohol in one form or another almost every place we went) upon which I immediately fell in love with Prosek, a sweet Croatian wine. We finished dinner stuffed but happy as can be.
Earlier that day we’d seen a neat looking place high up in the walls and following dinner were determined to find it. I am directionally challenged so followed as hubby navigated to the entrance of Labirint, one of the neatest restaurant/bars we’d ever visited (http://www.labirint-dubrovnik.com/). Wedged against the walls, the place blended ancient stone with contemporary design, something both of us love. We had a few drinks on outdoor sofas in the adjoining club listening to house/techno music while looking out over placid water below, dreaming of how we could possibly sell up in the States and move to Croatia. We finished the night at Poliskar, soon to become one of our favorite places in town, a restaurant right on the harbor with live music, great staff and even better food. If you’re in Dubrovnik, don’t miss this place.
Hubby was a fish in a previous life, so our first order of business the following morning was a boat tour. The boat he picked was an inflatable fast boat that sat about 20, but it turned out we were the only ones who’d signed up. This turned into a blessing even though it cost us a bit more $$, as the now private tour meant intimate discussions with the captain and his friend about Dubrovnik and the war (at their initiation, I should add, as I understand it’s sometimes offensive for outsiders to bring up the war). There’s nothing quite like getting to know the people who call Dubrovnik home: our captain pointed out the place from which the Serbs fired on Old Town during the war and proudly exclaimed how the walls had once again protected Croatians as they had for hundreds of years. They sped us through the harbor, past Old Town and completely around Lokrum, an island just off shore. They filled us in on Lokrum’s history and the folklore surrounding it. Time for a warning: there is a nude beach section of Lokrum which I didn’t realize existed until I’d snapped about thirty pictures of the shoreline from the boat, which we immediately deleted (it’s incredibly bad taste to shoot photos of a nude beach). Enough said. You’ve been warned.
The captain had told us we couldn’t leave Dubrovnik without going to Lokrum. After returning to the harbor we grabbed lunch at Poliskar (salad and a heavenly, peppered pizza) and complied with the captain’s demand, hopping on the ferry to the island. I should note the weather this time of year (last week in September) was perfect: warm, low humidity, high 70’s, not a minute of rain the whole time. We walked the island, hiking over rocks along the shore and even past a picturesque grotto (wear comfy shoes). As always, hubby was aching to get into the water but I hadn’t brought a suit. Easy for him, as shorts are a simple substitute but I was forced into a difficult decision: forego the incredible experience of jumping into the Adriatic or suck up my modesty and dive in in my underclothes (though I was only wearing bottoms). I realized then that I’d fortuitously layered my tank tops that day so left my shorts and one of the tanks on the rocks and jumped in. The water was incredibly cold but in light of our recent departure from watery surroundings back home, we couldn’t pass up the opportunity to swim in some of the clearest water we’d ever seen. After a while I climbed out, only to realize the white tank I was wearing had now become completely see-through. Luckily, this was Europe and instead of being hauled off for indecent exposure I simply switched into the dry, opaque tank and sprawled out on the rocks to soak in the sun. It took some serious coaxing to get hubby out of the water in time to catch the boat back to the harbor, and we made it with minutes to spare.
The night before, we’d made dinner reservations for Labirint to see if the food was as great as the atmosphere and drinks. But after two boat rides and a swim in the sea, we weren’t quite dressed for the place so opted to cancel the reservations and dine, instead, at Poliskar once again. Try their Shrimp Dubrovnik…it’s the best. One final note, I should probably mention the cats. There are tons of them in Old Town and we were lucky to have one of them as our dinner guest that evening. A little black kitten sat near our feet the entire meal and even jumped on the table once to pilfer some food before we could even react. Both of us are allergic to cats but there must be something in the air in Dubrovnik because it didn’t bother us a bit.
With reluctance we departed Dubrovnik the following day to head for the island of Hvar. We’d planned to drive up the cost to Split to catch the ferry to Hvar but were so reluctant to leave Dubrovnik that we left a little late, which I would caution against, as the drive is so majestic you’ll want to take your time. I’ve read questions on this Board about driving in Croatia and though I wasn’t the one behind the wheel (I’m almost as bad at driving as I am with directions) the roads on the mainland were in good condition, well signposted and, at that time of year, devoid of traffic. The roads on Hvar were a different story but more on that later. We passed through Bosnia and back into Croatia without incident (didn’t even get a stamp; they only looked at the (closed) passports in our hands and waived us through). After passing countless roadside stands with oranges hanging from them we decided we had to stop. Fate be damned, if we missed the ferry from Split, so be it. I’m very glad we did. As with everyone else we met in Croatia, the woman at the stand was incredibly nice, even offered to let me taste the drinks she was selling (hubby abstained as he was driving) before we settled on a bottle of a still-unknown type of liquor that made the trip with us back to the States. This is probably a good time to mention the people, who (as in most European countries we’ve visited) we found incredibly warm and welcoming. And even more than anywhere else, we found that making an effort at the language went a very long way with Croatians. Plus, trying to pronounce the phrases is a whole lot of fun so put on a smile and give it a go!
Back in the car and on the road again we spent the next hour ogling the scenery (keep an eye out for the world’s 2nd longest wall at Ston), aware that we would likely miss our ferry and only caring a little bit when we passed a sign on the side of the road with a picture of a boat. I grabbed the map and noted the city looked to be the closest to Hvar of any other city on the mainland. Hubby made a u-turn and we drove into the quaint port town. Bingo…there was a car ferry at the dock and a Jadrolinija office beside. I jumped out of the car and raced to the window. It was empty, so I stepped into the café next door and asked the waitress if there was a ferry to Hvar. She said yes, that it was leaving in less than an hour, that it only took 20 minutes to cross and that the ferry office would be open any minute. We split an Ozujsko while we waited, bought our tickets and before we knew it were sailing through clear water to Hvar. The city was Drvenik and it deposited us at Sucuraj on the Eastern coast of the island.
Hvar is stunning from the sea, but even more breathtaking from its high, winding roads due to the scenery as much as to the complete and utter lack of guardrails or shoulders on the road. I was relieved not to be behind the wheel, as there was a buffer of only inches between pavement and the sharp, downward slope of a mountain. The drive was long but enjoyable (at least from the passenger’s seat), and requires at least a few photo-op stops along the way. Before long we pulled into Hvar town, parked in the public lot and dragged our suitcases to the waterfront to hunt down our hotel. We’d selected the Riva Palace, a Suncani hotel, about which I’d read mixed reviews. Luckily, we experienced none of the negatives others had in the past. It’s a trendy, boutique-style hotel in an old building right on the waterside (as mentioned above, we’re partial to a blend of history and contemporary design and Riva fit the bill). Staff was incredibly friendly and offered us a complimentary upgrade to a large junior suite, though it wasn’t quite ready so we left our bags and set off to explore Hvar town. It’s an incredibly charming place, though small, and it didn’t take long to cover most of it. After a good meal near the water we checked in, washed up and headed out again to walk the waterfront. There are two other experiences not to be missed in Hvar: lounging on the comfy sofas at the Riva Hotel watching boats bobbing in the sea; and, dinner at Gariful’s (the floor inside the restaurant is an aquarium from which they pluck their fresh fish – we thoroughly enjoyed the Pag cheese starter, my monstrous lobster, hubby’s spaghetti carbonara, the bottle of Pocip Cara, dessert and, of course, the free and delicious after dinner drinks). The next day we rented a boat, a miniature thing with a tiny outboard motor but it only cost about US-$50 for half a day so we didn’t complain. As I mentioned, hubby has gills so he had no problem navigating through the harbor toward the islands the boat rental people suggested we visit (we were given a tiny paper map as our only implement of navigation but we were up for an adventure anyway). After an hour or so we passed a tiny cove on a little island off shore and immediately turned in. Not another soul around as far as we could see, we suddenly felt like Columbus exploring the Indies. The island was hilly, rocky ledges interspersed with vegetation hugging a small stretch of beach. To call the water clear is an understatement, to call the island heaven is a definitive truth. If there’s a navigator among your traveling companions, definitely rent a boat. It’s a way to see the islands from a whole different vantage point. To this day, I dream about that island.
Our Croatian vacation came to an end the following day (after a quick tour through Diocletian’s Palace in Split – really neat and deserving of more than the 1.5 hrs we had to spend there), as we had to fly to London to visit family before heading back across the pond. I am already, excitedly, researching a lengthier return, and plan to throw Istria into the mix. Sorry again for rambling but I just can’t say enough about the place. If there are any other details I can provide, drop me an email anytime. Cheers, and happy travels!
Jan 22nd, 2008, 08:36 PM
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What an excellent report. Well written, and full of useful and interesting detail. Well done !
You sure took me back to my first visit to Croatia in 2004. I visited the same time as you, ate at some of the same restaurants, and completely understand how quickly one can fall in love with the place. It is exactly as you describe.
Besides Dub. and Hvar, I also visited Brac and drove from Dub to Split along the coastal road. Stunning. Like you, I could move there if I had to.
Thanks again.
You sure took me back to my first visit to Croatia in 2004. I visited the same time as you, ate at some of the same restaurants, and completely understand how quickly one can fall in love with the place. It is exactly as you describe.
Besides Dub. and Hvar, I also visited Brac and drove from Dub to Split along the coastal road. Stunning. Like you, I could move there if I had to.
Thanks again.
Jan 23rd, 2008, 11:04 AM
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Enjoyed reliving some of our Croatian experience last Sept. through your trip report. Loved Dubrovnik, Hvar, & Split (we took a 7-day small boat cruise along the Adriatic Sea). Wish we could have spent the time in Dubrovnik that you did. Two suggestions for your '08 return: (1) drive to Plitvice National Park for a day/overnight. What gorgeous scenery in a very pristine, environmentally-aware park. You'll love the hiking trails to, through, under, & around the many waterfalls. A hotel recommendation in the park is the Hotel Jezero -- ask for balcony rooms. (2) Add Slovenia to your itinerary for a couple days. We drove our rental car to the Lake Bled area. Absolutely fantastic scenery! Bled is like a postcard that comes alive while you're there. Can rent bicycles for a trip around the lake, take a boat ride to an island with a historical church, climb around a castle perched on the hilltop, etc. We stayed at a tourist farm outside of Bled (very popular accommodation in Slovenia). Family Mulej I believe it was! It's a working dairy farm, so we got to see cows being milked & experienced the birh of a calf. Reasonably priced, complete with breakfast & dinner -- all home cooked. Spacious rooms! From there we drove to Venice for 3 days, flew to Brussels, & spent 2 R&R days there before returning home. 3 absolutely delightful weeks, with Croatia being our highlight!
Jan 23rd, 2008, 11:55 AM
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ZippityDoDah...thanks for the suggestions! Slovenia (and your whole trip) sounds heavenly! The farm idea would be completely new for us so I think we'll definitely give it a try! The pics from their website look incredible! (http://www.mulej-bled.com/) Thanks for the tip!
Maitaitom...dinner was around US-$230 and the service was so incredible (they had 3 people waiting on us) we gave them a US-$40 tip so the whole bill came to about US-$270. Pricy but a good place for a splurge.
Maitaitom...dinner was around US-$230 and the service was so incredible (they had 3 people waiting on us) we gave them a US-$40 tip so the whole bill came to about US-$270. Pricy but a good place for a splurge.
Jan 23rd, 2008, 01:30 PM
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Loved your report. I felt like I was right back in Dubrovnik, the last time being in Oct. I'm going back in April and would like to try Pupo. Is this more of a lunch place/cafe or a resto? Do you have a web site, or the address? Is it off Stradun? I was also curious about when you went swimming, what did you do with your "stuff", like keys, money, phone? Also, what were the prices like at labirint? I walked by there so many times and never did go in.
Jan 23rd, 2008, 01:37 PM
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Thanks for the report--people ask about that Hvar drive all the time so it's good to get a first-hand story.
Interesting question on the swimming. In my experience, on a lot of the "beaches," you are so close to the shore--and often the only ones there(!), it didn't seem risky to leave stuff among the rocks or under a bush. Of course I wouldn't do this in a busy place, but when swimming right off the rocks you often climb a ladder right into the sea, so your stuff is close and in sight.
Interesting question on the swimming. In my experience, on a lot of the "beaches," you are so close to the shore--and often the only ones there(!), it didn't seem risky to leave stuff among the rocks or under a bush. Of course I wouldn't do this in a busy place, but when swimming right off the rocks you often climb a ladder right into the sea, so your stuff is close and in sight.
Jan 23rd, 2008, 02:12 PM
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I've been so tempted a couple times to swim, but I'm not sure I could get up that ladder and across the rocks in time to stop someone making off with my day bag. I haven't heard of this being much of a problem, but I would hate to be the one it happens to.
Jan 23rd, 2008, 07:09 PM
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Hi, all!
Pupo is off the Stradun (if you step through Ploce Gate and are on the Stradun facing towards St. Blaise, it will be down one of the lanes to your right). It's more of the cafe-type places with seating outside and a menu with photos of the food (usually try to shy away from such places but this one wasn't bad). I didn't find anything about the place online but the Three Sheets show said if you mention the show, they'll give you 10% off.
We didn't try this as they gave us free stuff anyway. I don't recall the prices at Labirint but I think they were comperable to Atlas Club Nautika.
As for leaving our stuff while we were swimming...
We jumped in in an area where there were lots of even rocks (probably acres of flat area) and a good amount of people lying around (it's the area looking the opposite direction from Old Town pretty near - or in front of - the island lake...if you find (and face) the grotto, keep walking right and you'll run into it). We honestly didn't think much about theft and I was even carrying a pretty expensive Dolce & Gabbana bag and we had very $$ cameras, shoes, etc with us. We simply dropped our clothes, shoes and bag fairly near the ladder and jumped. The area we were in was a large, expansive rock area (not hilly so we had a fairly decent vantage point of others most of the time - though you are a little below everything from water level) and for some reason we just didn't have any concern as there were enough people around that I couldn't imagine anyone messing with our stuff. Plus, it's an island filled mostly with tourists and everyone is so incredibly friendly...you'll see when you get there (I might be naieve but we really didn't worry at all). I bet if we'd been in a more secluded area I'd be more concerned. I think it's best to use your instincts and judgment (if you have a bad feeling, stay on shore) and all will be fine.
Happy travels, everyone! Let me know if there's any momre info I can provide!
Cheers, Melissa
Pupo is off the Stradun (if you step through Ploce Gate and are on the Stradun facing towards St. Blaise, it will be down one of the lanes to your right). It's more of the cafe-type places with seating outside and a menu with photos of the food (usually try to shy away from such places but this one wasn't bad). I didn't find anything about the place online but the Three Sheets show said if you mention the show, they'll give you 10% off.
We didn't try this as they gave us free stuff anyway. I don't recall the prices at Labirint but I think they were comperable to Atlas Club Nautika. As for leaving our stuff while we were swimming...
We jumped in in an area where there were lots of even rocks (probably acres of flat area) and a good amount of people lying around (it's the area looking the opposite direction from Old Town pretty near - or in front of - the island lake...if you find (and face) the grotto, keep walking right and you'll run into it). We honestly didn't think much about theft and I was even carrying a pretty expensive Dolce & Gabbana bag and we had very $$ cameras, shoes, etc with us. We simply dropped our clothes, shoes and bag fairly near the ladder and jumped. The area we were in was a large, expansive rock area (not hilly so we had a fairly decent vantage point of others most of the time - though you are a little below everything from water level) and for some reason we just didn't have any concern as there were enough people around that I couldn't imagine anyone messing with our stuff. Plus, it's an island filled mostly with tourists and everyone is so incredibly friendly...you'll see when you get there (I might be naieve but we really didn't worry at all). I bet if we'd been in a more secluded area I'd be more concerned. I think it's best to use your instincts and judgment (if you have a bad feeling, stay on shore) and all will be fine.
Happy travels, everyone! Let me know if there's any momre info I can provide!
Cheers, Melissa
Jan 24th, 2008, 08:29 AM
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Glad you liked the Mulej farm photos, mbuhrig. I'm sure you would enjoy a stay there (we spent 2 nights) -- most gracious hosts (ask to see their old coin collection after dinner). A pleasant, welcome respite to go to after doing the "tourist thing." Also if you need an e-mail fix while in Bled, you can do it free at the library.
Jan 24th, 2008, 08:42 AM
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Melissa, thanks so much for your response. I'm sure I walked by Pupo many times as my apt. was in Gunduliceva Square. I too shy away from places with pictures of the menu items posted out front, but in Dubrovnik it's not necessarily always an indication of bad quality. Good to know about the swimming area. For some reason, having been to Lokrum a few times, I did not get to that area. I loved the little lagoon and I have been to the swimming area on the side of the island close to the monastery and cafe.
I can't wait to get back there. I'm hoping the weather in April will be warm.
I can't wait to get back there. I'm hoping the weather in April will be warm.
Jan 25th, 2008, 11:33 AM
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Zippitydoda, I believe we were at Mulej the same time you were (we were two; you were a group of 4?). Beautiful area. We are traveling to Croatia this year and are working on our itinerary (we are trying to meet up with some of our friends traveling to area as well). Not sure where we will fly in to. We leave the USA from O’Hare. And mbuhrig, Slovenia is definitely worth a visit. Shirley
