I posted these earlier but Fodor�s deleted them because the title ran on w/o spaces and apparently caused problems. They sent me a nice e-mail explaining the problem so here I go again. In three parts (This time Thursday <BR> <BR>September 20 � the three of us met at friend�s house where a limo picked us up for the 2+ hour drive to SFO. Limo driver was amazed that three ladies �of a certain age� had only 3 handbags and 3 21-inch rollaboards. I knew our UK rental car would have a small boot so I insisted on the light packing. My bag was � full and the other two were 110% full � but not actually bursting at the seams � that happened on the way home ;-) <BR> <BR>Uneventful trip to SFO, not much traffic even on the Bay Bridge � got to the airport before the Virgin desk was open. Long line for check in, but it moved fast once they opened. Security was tight but less than I expected. (I have flown SMF to LAX and San Diego since I got back home and each place the levels of security have been different.) The flight was totally full � I put that to the fact that Virgin had only resumed flying the route the previous Saturday and they probably had a backlog to clear. But apparently that assumption was wrong since the return flight on October 8 was just as full. <BR> <BR>We had window, middle, aisle in row 32 and as any of you who have flown Virgin know � there is NO room in coach. I am 5� tall and I didn�t have enough leg room! The window/middle seats were really cramped and Jo in the aisle seat slept most of the way so we were basically trapped for 10.5 hours. I have a love/hate relationship w/ Virgin � great service, good food and horrible space in coach. Whereas AA has Great space, so so service and bad food. You can�t win! Had poached salmon and it was actually quite good � not dried out at all. <BR> <BR>Arrived at LHR @ 10:30AM and driver from car hire company was there to meet us. I rented from Windsor so we had a nice 10-minute drive to the garage to pick up the car. We toured the castle (actually my friends did since I started to feel really ill and it only got worse). After I partially recovered (I was head driver � only driver actually � and the only one capable of reading a map, I definitely needed to be OK) we headed out towards the west. The first night we had booked a B&B in Mildenhall � not the one in Suffolk but a little village near Marlborough. It was FANTASTIC!!! My room had big windows looking out over the Kennet River and the resident swans at the bottom of the garden. The house was very grand but also VERY comfortable. The husband runs the B&B and the wife has a posh flower arranging and decorating business. She travels all over doing the country doing the flowers for big society do�s and the house was filled with fresh and dried flower arrangements.

The next morning we drove over to Avebury – One of my favorite places in southern England. The stones are much more “real” than Stonehenge and with the village grown up amidst the stones, they are just so much more mysterious. And Silbury Hill nearby just makes them even more mystifying. <BR> <BR>From there we motored over to Bath for the rest of the day. We go from neolithic Avebury to “new” Roman development – A day like this only emphasizes how much history there is in the UK and how “young” the USA is. I’ve been to Bath countless times and I still love the city. But I included it on our itinerary since neither of my friends had been there before. We stayed in Bath until late afternoon and then headed up to Oxfordshire where I had booked a cottage in Kingham near Stow on the Wold. I’m not going to detail all the things we did during the week – that is for a longer (MUCH) trip report I still need to write. <BR> <BR>But a couple of things – we had front row seats at Stratford for Hamlet starring Samuel West (Be still my heart!!!! – Howards End, etc, etc.). I didn’t even know he was in the cast until Hamlet – who was sitting on a ramp two feet from me awaiting his entrance in Scene one – stood to speak his first lines. He had a hood on so I hadn’t seen his face until he turned to speak – and then Jo and I both gasped in unison – we had just run up to the box office and hadn’t even looked at the cast list. Linda didn’t know of him so was much less impressed – but she became impressed as the play went on. It was an excellent production! <BR> <BR>At Waddesdon Manor we attended a wine tasting in the Rothschild’s cellars. We may have been waaaay out of our class – but the wine was superb! (I seem to be using a lot of exclamation marks!) <BR> <BR>Our little stone cottage was really neat – 3 bedrooms, 2 baths, really steep winding stairs, stone walls and floors, large kitchen and large living room right on the village green. Our landlord presses his own cider (British cider is “hard” and very good) and he gave me 2 gallons which we couldn’t finish off. Kingham is not a “twee” Cotswold village but is very pretty. And we were right next door to the pub. <BR>

PARIS – after a week in Kingham we drove back to Windsor and took the train to Waterloo to catch the EuroStar to Paris for three days. Again – I’ll leave out a lot of the details until I can finish my full trip report. But a few things: The Train is the ONLY way to get to Paris. Not actually – but it is really comfortable and FAST! You check in just as for a flight and security was similar to the airports -- Very thorough but pretty efficient. The ride was amazingly smooth and you don’t have the sensation of speed at all. But once you notice you can’t read the station signs as you fly through each one, and the village really fly past you realize you are going about 125 mph. We caught the 9:14 train and got to Gare du Nord at 1:27 (1 hour time difference). <BR> <BR>I chose our hotel based on location and price. Wanted to be in the very center of things since we were in Paris such a short time, and we wanted to save money. Well – huge success on both counts. The hotel is right on the river, directly across from the Louvre, and ½ a block from the Musee d’ Orsay. From my 5th floor single I could see from the Ferris wheel at Place de la Concord all the way to Notre Dame. And I could wave at the people on the boats going by on the river. It could not have been a better location and was walking distance to everything. Plus it is a 2 star so it was cheap. I was not expecting much but rationalized that location, location, location. But to my surprise – it was wonderful. Nice rooms, Friendly desk staff (!), lovely reading lounge, a small bar, even good breakfasts (Paris hotels are not usually the best place to eat b’fast.) I will definitely stay there again. <BR> <BR>Our first night we took a vedette boat ride and I got some terrific photographs. But as we landed at about 10PM it started to rain and we ran – literally - back to the hotel. The rain stopped soon after and I kept seeing the ferris wheel out the window – I dried off and then walked down to the wheel and rode it at 11:30. It was Glorious. (The others were pooped and already in bed – who sleeps in Paris, I ask you?). I got back to the hotel about midnight – ordered up a cognac, settled in to bed and made phone calls to the states looking out over the Seine and Louvre -- perfect! <BR> <BR>The location of the hotel was so good I did not use the Metro once – did all of the touristy sites on foot – Louvre, Orsay, Ste Chapelle, Notre Dame, Eiffel tower, Pompidou, Rodin, Luxemborg gardens, cafes, Samartine, Marais, etc, etc. Needed about 5 more days.

EuroStar back LONDON – rented a really cute two bedroom two bath flat behind Victoria station. Really convenient location – but the trains were a little noisy. Luckily, for the most part, they stop running after midnight. Just the London highlights – in no particular order: A box for My Fair Lady – Jonathan Pryce is the BEST Professor Higgins ever; Lunch with friends; Drinks with friends; Fireworks over the river and Tower Bridge; Front row tickets for Private Lives – Alan Rickman!!!; Aisle seat for the Lion King; the new Great Court at the British Museum; Noises Off with Lynn Redgrave; being pulled on stage to play Ophelia during The Complete Works of William Shakespeare Hamlet segment – luckily I got off the stage before Ophelia drowned herself (myself!); Tea at the Ritz; Evensong at St Paul’s - - - too many others to mention. <BR> <BR>Hired a driver to take us to LHR for our 11:30 flight out on October 8. Gave ourselves plenty of time and when we got to the airport there was NOBODY queued for security – took less than 5 minutes. So I assumed the flight would be empty. Wrong – totally full. But we checked in early enough to get 3 bulkhead seats right behind Business. I opted instead to keep my original aisle seat a few rows back, so the other two had plenty of leg room and I had an aisle so I could get up and move around. Totally uneventful flight – salmon was on the menu again but I took the herbed chicken instead – should have had the salmon. <BR> <BR>The captain auctioned off a visit to the flight deck on the SFO approach to raise money for Sept 11 relief. It went just a little over my limit at $450 – If I hadn’t made the last stops at Harrods and Chanel in Duty free I could have swung it But I do enjoy the Chanel ring I bought – and I was really full of myself carrying around that posh little black shiny Chanel bag – the fact that it was probably one of the cheapest things in the shop was my little secret. <BR> <BR>We touched down 20 minutes ahead of schedule but had to wait a few minutes for a gate. Were still inside before our scheduled arrival. But it took for EVER to get our bags – we only had the roll aboards but they were all heavier than Virgin’s 6 kilo limit so we checked them. Jo’s was the second bag on the carousel but mine appeared a full 35 minutes later. Limo driver was there and we were back in Sacramento before 5PM – exhausted, broke, and ready to go back tomorrow!

janis, LOVED your trip report. Tell, tell, tell, the names of the places where you stayed. When did you purchase your tickets for MY Fair Lady and where did you sit? Was this a one time trip with your friends or have you done it before/will do it again? Thank you for posting again after your first failed effort. <BR> <BR>linda

I posted to the "lost" thread. Yes, what is the name of the paris hotel? How much did the cottage, Paris hotel, & London apartment cost?

Linda: The only show I booked ahead was My fair Lady. I got those tickets back in May and the only seats available were in a box at the back of the Dress circle. You may be better off queueing for returns since the show is sold out for a long while - except that Martine McCutchen (Eliza) has just announced she is leaving the show early which may change things (doubt it tho') <BR> <BR>All the others except Lion King were through the 1/2 price ticket booth. I got LK by queing for returns. And for Hamlet at the Royal Shaklespeare Co at Stratford upon Avon - just walked up to the box office before the performance. <BR> <BR>Linda and Tom: The cottage was Wiggals Corner, Kingham, Oxon. -- REALLY inexpensive and a great location <BR> <BR>The flat in London was arranged through E&E Apartments, 90 Wilton Road, London SW1 (I don't have their phone number or e-mail address with me but I can post it later) The flat was VERY nice with diswasher, washer/dryer and 2 bathrooms. <BR> <BR>The Paris Hotel was Hotel du Quai Voltaire, 19 Quai Voltaire in the 7th Arr. Email: [email protected] <BR> <BR>

Another place to try for the Oxfordshire area and Cotswolds would be here... <BR> <BR>http://www.heathfarm.com/holidays/page1.htm

Wonderful report. It sounds like you covered a lot of ground only staying in three places - really 4 I guess including the first night. Did you take any day trips out of London or Paris? And how much were the cottage and apartment?

janis, I have always been intrigued by Hotel Quai Voltaire, now I'm seriously interested. Thank you. Will check out other "stays" during my Jan trip to UK. Will try returns for MFL. <BR> <BR>Thank you1 <BR> <BR>limda

I stayed At Hotel de Quai Voltaire for two nights on my last trip. The room was large for PAris and the view was pretty phenomenal. Problem was too much road noise- really tons of traffic on the street between you and that view if you're on the seine side. Plus,it is not what I call big on service. <BR> <BR>I would vote find someplace with more going on - a little more atmo. It was nice - but just not what I call a true Paris feel. I moved to Hotel Millisimes after that. It cost a lot more but I got a deal since I was staying two weeks. But the improvement all the way around was huge. I like Rue Jacob MUCH better.

Janis, I thoroughly enjoyed your 3-part trip report. I was hooked by the time you referred to the limo driver being amazed by 3 ladies "of a certain age" with only 1 carryon each. &lt;grin&gt; <BR>I'll be looking for the full and complete trip report at a later date. <BR>Thank you so very much for taking the time to post this one.

Where did you find your cottage in the cotswolds? Was it through a rental agency - if so which one? We rented a cottage in the Cotswolds and want to go back. We like cottages in towns near pubs, but not too bustling. Sounds like your cottage was just right.

Quick... <BR> <BR>Go to www.sundaytimes.co.uk <BR>Go to the TRAVEL section - scroll down <BR>and you will see a nice little tour of Churches and villages that include Turville (Vicar of Dibley fame)... <BR> <BR>Need to print off now... <BR> <BR>Article: "England: just as you imagined it"

Jane: I initially found the cottage thri "Cottage in the Country". It is an agency that handles about 100 cottages throughtout the Cotswolds, Thames Valley, Chilterns and as far north as Shropshire. <BR> <BR>I know of several other reputable agencies but this one has more inexpensive ones than most and has a really "honest" brochure - they don't try to make the places sound better than they really are. <BR> <BR>www.cottageinthecountry.co.uk <BR> <BR>But if you are interested in the specific cottage we used it is a little cheaper if you book directly w/ the owner. Mr C J Harvey, Wiggalls Corner, The Green, Kingham Oxfordshire OX7 6 YD

Thanks for the tip. I have used Manor Cottages based in Burford - they are pretty good - provide cheap car rental and transportation from and to the airport. But many of their cottages are not in villages, which we prefer. <BR> <BR>Thanks again.

Tom: I missed your question about the costs. <BR> <BR>The cottage was £290 / week but would have been £250 if I had found them directly. That is for three bedroom, 2 baths etc. Could have easily slept 6. So we are talking £5 to £17 pp per night depending on how many. <BR> <BR>The London flat was £660 / week. Large 2 bedroom, 2 bath so £23 to £46 pp per night - a tremendous bargain for London. <BR> <BR>The hotel was 650FF single and 800FF double/twin for the riverside rooms. The quieter rooms at the back are 100-150FF less. The triples are 900FF.

Do you mean 250 pounds per person or for the whole cottage? Are there houses for rent for that small amount? I was under the impression that self catering accomodations in england cost hundreds of pounds. Maybe we can afford a trip afterall. <BR> <BR>I will contact the agency. thank you

How and when did you get your eurostar tickets? How much were they? I can't find any bargains for these tickets. It seems you were traveling on a budget so did you get a discount or special fare?

ttt. Janice or anyone else reading this. How much $$ and, how can I get discount euro star tickets?