Hi eks,
I was struck by today's review of NOOR (number 9) on the HO thread "Spain (Basque Country and Andalucía Restaurant Recommendation", in case you hadn't seen it. I'm not sure I agree with some of the 11 assessments, but to each his/her own. It did make interesting reading. I always appreciate when posters take the time to leave feedback about their dining experiences on HO.

Maribel, I had missed it and just now read his/her post. I don't know most of those restaurants but the reviews make me think that this poster is a lot more critical than I would be! Certainly a pretty seasoned visitor to Spain and yes, unlike a few others, it is great to hear the comments on all the places sampled..I wish everyone would do that!

I've got the date that Noor will take booking marked down on my calendar already...looks as if it is early next month. It's not a huge must for me, but I would like to go. It looks as if I have only 2 days in Cordoba when Noor is open but I don't think booking so far out will be a problem. As usual, I am booking restaurants before buying the plane tickets! Must do that this week.

Yes, eks, I thought the reviewer (to whom I've recommended several Madrid dining spots in the past) was much more critical that I would be, and interesting enough, more critical of a few places (Noor, Bardal) than the professional Spain food critics that I follow. But dining experiences are so very subjective, and I do appreciate those folks who take the time to leave their honest feedback.

A fairly recent review of Noor (by Julia Pérez Lozano, the wife of El País gastro critic, Capel)
https://www.gastroactitud.com/restau...urant-cordoba/

and from El Mundo
https://www.elmundo.es/metropoli/gas...4068b45cb.html

Maribona's reviews of a few Cordoba places
https://www.laverdad.es/gastronomia/...2716-ntvo.html

Noor has only 7 tables, so book as far out as you can.
Morales began Noor 8 years ago after a rigorous study of the cuisine of Al Andalus with the help of chef-historian Rosa Tovar. He's now into his 8th year of study and exploration.

At the beginning his goal was to replicate the cuisine of the 10th century, the Caliphate of Aberramán III, with only ingredients that existed back then.
Tomatoes and potatoes had not yet arrived from the New World, so he copied flavors, products and customs only that existed then.
In year 2 he based his menu on the Almoravide and Almohad empires of the XII and XIII centuries.
Year 3 was dedicated to the Nazari period, 14th century.
In year 4, 15th century, he incorporated ingredients that had arrived from the New World.

Morales´ 3 menus this season, the Mudéjar, Morisco and Al-Yazira are inspired by dishes that reflected the splendor of the Golden Age, 17th century.
So every season it´s a different dining experience.

To begin the meal, just as in the times of the Caliphate, diners wash their hands in silence in a copper aguamanil. Servers present the dishes in synchrony, and the maitre is said to be quite formal in his approach. All this may appear to some excessively robotic or somber.
The wine list is strong on Andalusian wines and sherries.

Here's a current Forbes review in English. The reviewer calls Morales a gastro-archaeologist.
https://www.forbes.com/sites/annabel...h=7a04dfef27b7

Booked plane tickets on Iberia. Only RT Miami to Madrid. Adding Jerez seemed way out of line price wise so will do that later....would you believe me if I told you that adding the one leg--business--from Jerez to Madrid, added more than 3000euro to the ticket price? And NO, I was not tipsy or tired when I read this..!!

So soon I will just get a one way from Jerez to Madrid..no connection needed so no pressure. Already booked my "new home" in Madrid (if only!!)

Interesting how one can relax after making these simple bookings.....mostly set and done now......

I am still dreaming about Mike's Zahara apartment......take the partner in the fall???

Hi eks,
Holy cow!
So glad you booked your new home in Almagro, such a beautiful neighborhood!
Yes, I think you should take partner to Zahara in the fall and stay at mike´s place....

I just read in the Córdoba paper that chef Del Mar, Angel León of 3 Micheli -starred Aponiente in El Puerto was in the city and went to dine at La Cuchara de San Lorenzo, the Bib Gourmand. I´d definitely put it on your list. He and his wife had patatas bravas, ensaladilla, flamenquín and salmorejo, among other things.

He also went to dine at another Bib Gourmand, El Envero, where he ordered mazamorra de anacardos, anchoas con polvo de tomate y mantequilla de Calaveruela, torreznos de Soria fritos con un toque de lima and fried loritos (raor fish).

And....they were staying at the Hospes Palacio del Bailío.

Noting these Cordoba restaurants, Maribel—many thanks.

And how exciting, Eks, that you’ve made some bookings. The trip becomes very real at that point.

parte 2 of "where the chefs eat"
Pepe Rodríguez, chef of El Bohío and judge of Master Chef was also in town, and he chose Casa Pepe de la Judería.
What he and companions ordered and shared: gazpacho cremoso de tomate y verduras asadas, tomate cherry asado con burrata y polvo de tomate, huevos fritos con patatas y jamón ibérico, croquetas cremosas de puchero y jamón, berenjenas con miel de caña, carrillada ibérica estofada and for dessert, coulant de chocolate y helado de avellana. Quite a feast.

Great to know, Maribel-thanks for sharing. What a sumptuous-sounding feast!

You´re going to need to make a second trip.

Clearly a second trip will be necessary!

Eks,
As you know Fall is a great time of year for Andalusia. We were in Zahara late September till mid October as you know, weather was spectacular crowds were thin and all restaurants were still open. Late October/November a lot of restaurants close up in Zahara. But I guess the weather is still great, just less options for dining. Marie’s apartment (Sunset Apt on Calle El Penon) books early as most guests are folks that return year after year (like me).

Eks,,
As mike says late October/November there will be fewer options in the towns directly on the coast (and in March as well before Easter) and El Campero in Barbate closes all of Nov/Dec. and Antonio is closed now in November, so I wouldn't go too late.

I want to rent Marie's apartment too, maybe for after Easter! Whenever mike and the other regulars that return year after year don't have it booked! When would be a good time, mike? Are you there the second week of October?

Yes Maribel, we will holiday 3 weeks in Andalucia next September and conclude with 10 days or so in Zahara. Looking at the calendar I would say September 29ish to Oct. 8ish. We will do Sanlucar for 5 nights prior to Zahara. Still not sure where to visit before Sanlucar. We always flew into Jerez via Madrid but the short window between flights had us miss the connection on three occasions and that is why we did Cordoba via rail from Madrid this year and then rented a vehicle for the remainder of our trip. Next year I am pondering direct to Madrid then rail to Malaga for a few days and then proceed via auto to Sanlucar and Zahara. I hope you get to Zahara in October.

Thanks mike. I envy your 3 weeks next September and late September to me is the perfect time to be on the Costa de la Luz.
Have you spent time in El Puerto de Santa Maria? It's another relaxing, laid back town in the sherry triangle.

Yes,several trips to El Puerto. Love it. Actually it was our first holiday to the Cadiz area and it was from there we discovered Zahara. Great beaches, ton of restaurants, history (Columbus), (12th Century Castle), very few crowds and as you mentioned Sherry, Sherry, Sherry. It’s laid back has a train station for easy trips to Jerez and Seville and of course the 30 min ferry ride over to Cadiz.

I love that ferry ride!

Just checking in to say we have had a death last night in the family so I will take a short break from Fodor's or a few days or so.......but still reading and very jealous of Mike's trip!!

Nos vemos pronto!

I'm so sorry ekscrunchy! I'll be thinking about you and you know where to find me if you need anything.

We have stayed in Cadiz three times and it was running only on our last stay . It would seem that the ferry cannot cope with any sea swell. Having said that on our return trip it was a bit like a big dipper white knuckle ride!! It is a shame the Cost de Luz coastline is so windy as the beaches are lovely.