CORDOBA..hotels, eating, to and from?
Oct 9th, 2023 | 07:23 AM
#21
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 25,398
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WOW! I had NO IDEA that sea water would be warm this late in the year! Your trip, Mike, sounds like a dream for me! Could I ask you how you found the apartment and if you would post the link? I'm not sure I've ever seen the actual town of Zahara..I only know the road (A314) leading from the outskirts of Vejer down to ANTONIO. I've seen a lot of condos near Antonio, but not an actual town, unless I'm not remembering right..
I'm sure you're doing just fine with the non-fish tables! I may take my partner next time (not this March) and so will be accommodating a fish-shunner as well. Or at least a shunner of "anything with shells!"
Maribel, again, you are amazing!
I had the retina once, at LA CASTILLERIA. I'm not a beef connoisseur and I thought its was good but honestly, could not distinguish it from a lot of other beef. Is it usually cut thinner than the chuletas of the Basque regions? THOSE were out of this world and had lots of char. I'm salivating just thinking of that meat.
The retinal I had did not have char; it was too thin to get that...I will have to do some reading!!
I'm sure you're doing just fine with the non-fish tables! I may take my partner next time (not this March) and so will be accommodating a fish-shunner as well. Or at least a shunner of "anything with shells!"
Maribel, again, you are amazing!
I had the retina once, at LA CASTILLERIA. I'm not a beef connoisseur and I thought its was good but honestly, could not distinguish it from a lot of other beef. Is it usually cut thinner than the chuletas of the Basque regions? THOSE were out of this world and had lots of char. I'm salivating just thinking of that meat.
The retinal I had did not have char; it was too thin to get that...I will have to do some reading!!
Last edited by ekscrunchy; Oct 9th, 2023 at 07:29 AM.
Oct 9th, 2023 | 09:37 AM
#22
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,662
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mike,
I believe this is your VRBO rental, correct? I bookmarked it for a future stay!
https://www.vrbo.com/988787a?dateles...rtyId=33954639
I believe this is your VRBO rental, correct? I bookmarked it for a future stay!
https://www.vrbo.com/988787a?dateles...rtyId=33954639
Oct 12th, 2023 | 03:10 AM
#24
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 568
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Yes,
that is my slice of heaven. Every September/October for the last 12 years. The apartment is the best I have ever stayed at in over 200 European rentals. Eks, Antonio’s Restaurant is located near the Atlanterra neighborhood that Maribel referenced, which is about a kilometer from Zahara’s old town or village area where I stay and where the majority of the restaurants, cafes, shops, markets are located. Atlanterra consists of numerous attractive rentals but the buildings are large 4 story complexes. Beautiful beaches but not quaint like Zahara village. In Zahara village you could eat fresh seafood at a different quality for days on end.
that is my slice of heaven. Every September/October for the last 12 years. The apartment is the best I have ever stayed at in over 200 European rentals. Eks, Antonio’s Restaurant is located near the Atlanterra neighborhood that Maribel referenced, which is about a kilometer from Zahara’s old town or village area where I stay and where the majority of the restaurants, cafes, shops, markets are located. Atlanterra consists of numerous attractive rentals but the buildings are large 4 story complexes. Beautiful beaches but not quaint like Zahara village. In Zahara village you could eat fresh seafood at a different quality for days on end.
Oct 29th, 2023 | 09:14 AM
#26
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 25,398
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Maribel, Mike, etc:
Just sent request for 5 nights in Cordoba at the Hospes..might trim that down to four nights..remember this is my first overnight after flying from USA so the first night will be pretty shot except maybe for a dinner at the traditional place close to the hotel.....now I've also neglected to write that one down..maybe Taverna del Almodovar?. Casa el Pisto? Looks like arrival date is a Sunday which will limit dinners.....maybe just have lunch and call it a day..lots of time to think about this..
Looked at NOOR..although I do not generally favor tasting menus, for one thing they take so long and there is just too much food....I remember my dear Dad always sayi8ng that "your eyes are bigger than your stomach!!" Well come things never change..so much food to sample and so little space for it all.....
But might take a chance on tNoor due to emphasis on Arab-Andalus dishes..., as well as his Bar de Paco Morales.
Surely hotel will help with those places I can't book online, or I can just phone...
Just curious: Is Morales a name common Cordoba? Can you tell by one's surname which region they originated from?
(I did learn that "S" is pronounced different ways depending on which part of Andalucia one orientates from..can you imagine that in Vejer the "S" ir pronounced differently from the "S" in Sevilla?? Or at least that is what I thought I learned from my dear Jessica at my hotel near Vejer....."Serpent is th-erpeinte". Or am I confused, as usual?? These are things that fascinate me!!
Two questions for Maribel (in addition the restaurants queries above and I apologize for not having filed these restaurants away..now dealing with new laptop and having some "growing pains..or maybe the laptop is the one with the pains!!) and anyone else:
Maribel, I think you mentioned a new place near Vejer but try as I might, could not find the mention, which was in last few months....not Venta Pinto. As you know, I prefer not to drive INTO Vejer to dine but will do so if you highly recommend! Right now I have my usual faves.....Antonio, La Castilleria, El Campero, and my hotel has really nice food as well (if chef is the same as last year) so I tend to have lunches out and a small dinner. But you liked a newer place, or new to me....(??)
SO..is there a new place I should know about on the flats near Vejer? Certainly will now have a meal at Venta Pinto, which as I mentioned, I stopped only to muse the food (and wine!!) section in the front area..bought some tinned atun in Manteca which I've not yet sampled, and that bizcocho which I thought wonderful..like an American pound cake to the 100th power!! It was like a bright yellow and it lasted such a long time after I got to Madrid, and then back to NYC, where I first opened it and it was scrumptious!!!!!!
Next question and please forgive if I asked this recently..when should I begin looking for trains from Atocha to Cordoba, for first week March..more or less?
Do not have my flights from Miami to Madrid booked but will do so in another month or so....understand I need to leave three hours to get from Barajas to Atocha.....since I always have heavy backpack, etc...I probably will take taxi....I think I will arrive MAD on a Sunday....that allows me 5 days in Cordoba before moving on to collect car at airport in Jerez and drive to Vejer. ( It is extremely sad for me that Matteo has been adopted by a young nephew.....I do wish I had snapped a photo of my ursine companion who I adopted at the marvelous, fantastic HOTEL PALACIO MARIA LUISA in Jerez, which I learned about only throgh Maribel, our leader here!!! Assure all: There was a rigorous interview process before he was handed over to my care and he is doing very well up in chilly New England, as we speak!!)
Just sent request for 5 nights in Cordoba at the Hospes..might trim that down to four nights..remember this is my first overnight after flying from USA so the first night will be pretty shot except maybe for a dinner at the traditional place close to the hotel.....now I've also neglected to write that one down..maybe Taverna del Almodovar?. Casa el Pisto? Looks like arrival date is a Sunday which will limit dinners.....maybe just have lunch and call it a day..lots of time to think about this..
Looked at NOOR..although I do not generally favor tasting menus, for one thing they take so long and there is just too much food....I remember my dear Dad always sayi8ng that "your eyes are bigger than your stomach!!" Well come things never change..so much food to sample and so little space for it all.....
But might take a chance on tNoor due to emphasis on Arab-Andalus dishes..., as well as his Bar de Paco Morales.
Surely hotel will help with those places I can't book online, or I can just phone...
Just curious: Is Morales a name common Cordoba? Can you tell by one's surname which region they originated from?
(I did learn that "S" is pronounced different ways depending on which part of Andalucia one orientates from..can you imagine that in Vejer the "S" ir pronounced differently from the "S" in Sevilla?? Or at least that is what I thought I learned from my dear Jessica at my hotel near Vejer....."Serpent is th-erpeinte". Or am I confused, as usual?? These are things that fascinate me!!
Two questions for Maribel (in addition the restaurants queries above and I apologize for not having filed these restaurants away..now dealing with new laptop and having some "growing pains..or maybe the laptop is the one with the pains!!) and anyone else:
Maribel, I think you mentioned a new place near Vejer but try as I might, could not find the mention, which was in last few months....not Venta Pinto. As you know, I prefer not to drive INTO Vejer to dine but will do so if you highly recommend! Right now I have my usual faves.....Antonio, La Castilleria, El Campero, and my hotel has really nice food as well (if chef is the same as last year) so I tend to have lunches out and a small dinner. But you liked a newer place, or new to me....(??)
SO..is there a new place I should know about on the flats near Vejer? Certainly will now have a meal at Venta Pinto, which as I mentioned, I stopped only to muse the food (and wine!!) section in the front area..bought some tinned atun in Manteca which I've not yet sampled, and that bizcocho which I thought wonderful..like an American pound cake to the 100th power!! It was like a bright yellow and it lasted such a long time after I got to Madrid, and then back to NYC, where I first opened it and it was scrumptious!!!!!!
Next question and please forgive if I asked this recently..when should I begin looking for trains from Atocha to Cordoba, for first week March..more or less?
Do not have my flights from Miami to Madrid booked but will do so in another month or so....understand I need to leave three hours to get from Barajas to Atocha.....since I always have heavy backpack, etc...I probably will take taxi....I think I will arrive MAD on a Sunday....that allows me 5 days in Cordoba before moving on to collect car at airport in Jerez and drive to Vejer. ( It is extremely sad for me that Matteo has been adopted by a young nephew.....I do wish I had snapped a photo of my ursine companion who I adopted at the marvelous, fantastic HOTEL PALACIO MARIA LUISA in Jerez, which I learned about only throgh Maribel, our leader here!!! Assure all: There was a rigorous interview process before he was handed over to my care and he is doing very well up in chilly New England, as we speak!!)
Last edited by ekscrunchy; Oct 29th, 2023 at 09:23 AM.
Oct 29th, 2023 | 09:57 AM
#27
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,662
Likes: 0
ekscrunchy,
Sunday night dinner---La Taberna del Almodovar (Repsol recommended) is closed on Sunday nights, open for Sunday lunch only. So you could hit it for a late lunch and have tapas or room service at the Hospes for dinner. Casa el Pisto is closed on Sundays.
If you decide on NOOR let the hotel call for you, as they will have some "enchufe" (pull), surely on getting the best table. Clients of the Hospes will surely ask the concierge staff to make a reservation at NOOR for them, the city's most famous/gastronomic restaurant.
Morales is not a last name especially common to Córdoba. (Hijo de Moral)
Cordoba pronunciation is actually difficult for me, as many pronounce the "s" as a "z".
New place in Vejer: El Muro
https://www.lavozdigital.es/gurme/ca...6_noticia.html
https://elmurorestaurante.es
Iconic place next to La Castillería in Santa Lucía that you MUST try for lunch for their acclaimed huevos rotos that José Andrés absolutely loves and his daughter says in the Andalucian episode of José Andrés & Family Go to Spain, "this is my favorite meal of all time"------ VENTA EL TORO---he actually goes there for broken eggs and ham as an appetizer BEFORE his meal at La Castillería!!! (BTW, I loved this episode and especially the scenes from the Feria del Caballo in Jerez).
A gazillion articles have been written about this super well known place. The mother, Maruja Gallardo, who made these broken eggs with potatoes and ham world famous, has, I believe, retired and her son Alberto is now in charge (or maybe she still lurks in the tiny kitchen)
https://gotocadiz.com/vejer/restaura...oro#tab-con-11
Notes from my dining guide about VENTA EL TORO
*Venta El Toro— next door to La Castillería you’ll find José Andrés’ favorite breakfast/snack place that he loves to frequent for owner Maruja Gallardo’s acclaimed fried eggs.She’s been frying up (or rather poaching up) these ecological eggs and locally grown potatoes with extra virgin olive oil in her cast iron skillets for 40 years. When her mother died when she was only 13, she dropped out of school and became the cook for her father and many siblings.
Maruja’s modest kitchen doesn’t have a microwave or a deep fryer. Each day she serves up at least 40 servings of her eggs and potatoes at 6 euros each. Each additional topping costs €1.50. Andrés orders them topped with chorizo, morcilla from Ronda and Iberian ham as an "appetizer" before dinner at La Castillería!
For many, this is a 3-story dish with potatoes on the bottom, topped by a fried egg (but without the crunchy edges-the regulars don’t want them) and finished off with slices of Iberian ham from El Arahal in Sevilla.
She also offers traditional stews such as chickpeas with spinach and the locally famous pork sandwich, lomo en manteca.
This modest spot began in 1945 as a wine dispensary, was discovered by bullfighters, such as Paquirri, (thus the bullfight posters adorning the walls) and a few famous Spanish actors and now has added a small, plant filled outdoor terrace and another outdoor dining spot across the street, next to the brook.
It's open from 9:30 am-9:00 pm daily except Tuesday. Tel: 956 45 14 07
https://www.facebook.com/ventaeltoro/.
But you haven't yet tried VENTA LA DUQUESA on the road to Medina Sidonia, which has a female chef and has an excellent reputation.
Notes from my dining guide-Venta la Duquesa—on the A-396 highway south of town at kilometer 7.7, it has a female chef, Miriam Rodríguez Prieto who trained with the Roca brothers and as a pastry chef at the prestigious Hofmann cooking school in Barcelona. Vegetables come from the restaurant’s own garden, and the beef served is local retinto from La Janda. During the fall/winter, game dishes, such as creamy rice with rabbit or partridge (perdiz de monte), venison and wild mushrooms are featured. Desserts are outstanding, such as the rice pudding with lemon cream. Despite its moniker as a venta (=rustic roadside watering hole), this is a sophisticated dining venue. Repsol guide recommended. Menu in English. Open for lunch and dinner but closed Tuesdays. One can book online 24 hours in advance. It won the jury’s vote for best venta this year from Premios Gurmé Cádiz.www.ventaladuquesa.com.
Trains from Madrid Puerta de Atocha to Córdoba----If you want to try the snazzy new IRYO (Italian frecciarossa trains), they are on sale now for March (I just checked March 1)
www.iryo.eu
If you want to go on Renfe's AVE (since 1992), then they're also loaded on www.renfe.com because Renfe's AVE competes with IRYO now on that route, so they load their fares when IRYO loads its fares. (again, I checked March 1)
Sorry that el osito Mateo went to New England but I hope he's happy there and much loved.
Sunday night dinner---La Taberna del Almodovar (Repsol recommended) is closed on Sunday nights, open for Sunday lunch only. So you could hit it for a late lunch and have tapas or room service at the Hospes for dinner. Casa el Pisto is closed on Sundays.
If you decide on NOOR let the hotel call for you, as they will have some "enchufe" (pull), surely on getting the best table. Clients of the Hospes will surely ask the concierge staff to make a reservation at NOOR for them, the city's most famous/gastronomic restaurant.
Morales is not a last name especially common to Córdoba. (Hijo de Moral)
Cordoba pronunciation is actually difficult for me, as many pronounce the "s" as a "z".
New place in Vejer: El Muro
https://www.lavozdigital.es/gurme/ca...6_noticia.html
https://elmurorestaurante.es
Iconic place next to La Castillería in Santa Lucía that you MUST try for lunch for their acclaimed huevos rotos that José Andrés absolutely loves and his daughter says in the Andalucian episode of José Andrés & Family Go to Spain, "this is my favorite meal of all time"------ VENTA EL TORO---he actually goes there for broken eggs and ham as an appetizer BEFORE his meal at La Castillería!!! (BTW, I loved this episode and especially the scenes from the Feria del Caballo in Jerez).
A gazillion articles have been written about this super well known place. The mother, Maruja Gallardo, who made these broken eggs with potatoes and ham world famous, has, I believe, retired and her son Alberto is now in charge (or maybe she still lurks in the tiny kitchen)
https://gotocadiz.com/vejer/restaura...oro#tab-con-11
Notes from my dining guide about VENTA EL TORO
*Venta El Toro— next door to La Castillería you’ll find José Andrés’ favorite breakfast/snack place that he loves to frequent for owner Maruja Gallardo’s acclaimed fried eggs.She’s been frying up (or rather poaching up) these ecological eggs and locally grown potatoes with extra virgin olive oil in her cast iron skillets for 40 years. When her mother died when she was only 13, she dropped out of school and became the cook for her father and many siblings.
Maruja’s modest kitchen doesn’t have a microwave or a deep fryer. Each day she serves up at least 40 servings of her eggs and potatoes at 6 euros each. Each additional topping costs €1.50. Andrés orders them topped with chorizo, morcilla from Ronda and Iberian ham as an "appetizer" before dinner at La Castillería!
For many, this is a 3-story dish with potatoes on the bottom, topped by a fried egg (but without the crunchy edges-the regulars don’t want them) and finished off with slices of Iberian ham from El Arahal in Sevilla.
She also offers traditional stews such as chickpeas with spinach and the locally famous pork sandwich, lomo en manteca.
This modest spot began in 1945 as a wine dispensary, was discovered by bullfighters, such as Paquirri, (thus the bullfight posters adorning the walls) and a few famous Spanish actors and now has added a small, plant filled outdoor terrace and another outdoor dining spot across the street, next to the brook.
It's open from 9:30 am-9:00 pm daily except Tuesday. Tel: 956 45 14 07
https://www.facebook.com/ventaeltoro/.
But you haven't yet tried VENTA LA DUQUESA on the road to Medina Sidonia, which has a female chef and has an excellent reputation.
Notes from my dining guide-Venta la Duquesa—on the A-396 highway south of town at kilometer 7.7, it has a female chef, Miriam Rodríguez Prieto who trained with the Roca brothers and as a pastry chef at the prestigious Hofmann cooking school in Barcelona. Vegetables come from the restaurant’s own garden, and the beef served is local retinto from La Janda. During the fall/winter, game dishes, such as creamy rice with rabbit or partridge (perdiz de monte), venison and wild mushrooms are featured. Desserts are outstanding, such as the rice pudding with lemon cream. Despite its moniker as a venta (=rustic roadside watering hole), this is a sophisticated dining venue. Repsol guide recommended. Menu in English. Open for lunch and dinner but closed Tuesdays. One can book online 24 hours in advance. It won the jury’s vote for best venta this year from Premios Gurmé Cádiz.www.ventaladuquesa.com.
Trains from Madrid Puerta de Atocha to Córdoba----If you want to try the snazzy new IRYO (Italian frecciarossa trains), they are on sale now for March (I just checked March 1)
www.iryo.eu
If you want to go on Renfe's AVE (since 1992), then they're also loaded on www.renfe.com because Renfe's AVE competes with IRYO now on that route, so they load their fares when IRYO loads its fares. (again, I checked March 1)
Sorry that el osito Mateo went to New England but I hope he's happy there and much loved.
Last edited by Maribel; Oct 29th, 2023 at 10:18 AM.
Oct 30th, 2023 | 06:52 AM
#28
Original Poster
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 25,398
Likes: 0
Maribel you are my Numero Uno (Una??)
Ok..looks like my days in Cordoba include that one day when places are closed. Will I have the same problem Monday nights, too?
Enchufe!! I love it!!!!!
I've requested the stay at the HOSPES in Cordoba.. they have some kind of "deal" where they give a tapas spread to Virtuoso bookers....but very difficult to understand what that entails..I always like to book directly...anyway will keep you posted and thank you for the train info..that helps A LOT!!!!!!
I must have driven past VENTA PINTO several times en route to LA CASTILLERIA.....I think it is right after the turn off the larger road....not sure how I could have missed it but will be there this March, for certain!!
And VENTA LA DUQUESA..for certain! That is an easy road for me....I took it to the airport (Jerez) and it is fun to drive.....
I'm sorry for all this rambling....oh, Matteo!!! I almost want to book a night at the hotel in Jerez to see his brothers!!!!
Now THAT is a hotel!!!!!
Ok..looks like my days in Cordoba include that one day when places are closed. Will I have the same problem Monday nights, too?
Enchufe!! I love it!!!!!
I've requested the stay at the HOSPES in Cordoba.. they have some kind of "deal" where they give a tapas spread to Virtuoso bookers....but very difficult to understand what that entails..I always like to book directly...anyway will keep you posted and thank you for the train info..that helps A LOT!!!!!!
I must have driven past VENTA PINTO several times en route to LA CASTILLERIA.....I think it is right after the turn off the larger road....not sure how I could have missed it but will be there this March, for certain!!
And VENTA LA DUQUESA..for certain! That is an easy road for me....I took it to the airport (Jerez) and it is fun to drive.....
I'm sorry for all this rambling....oh, Matteo!!! I almost want to book a night at the hotel in Jerez to see his brothers!!!!
Now THAT is a hotel!!!!!
Oct 30th, 2023 | 08:55 AM
#29
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,662
Likes: 0
Ah, yes, you know very well the dilemma of Sun-Mon restaurant closings. Both Paco Morales places are closed MON, as are Terra Olea, La Ermita de la Candelaria, Tellus, ReComiendo, Celia Jiménez, Choco by Kisko García, Taberna Los Berengueles
Córdoba restaurants OPEN on MON (you do have plenty of options)
La Cuchara de San Lorenzo, lunch only until 4 pm
*Terra Olea, lunch only but until 6---bookable on The Fork with a 9.8 rating
Almudaina---bookable on The Fork with a 9.5 rating
Taberna Salinas Casa el Piso, lunch & dinner
Taberna de Almodóvar, lunch & dinner
In the Judería or historic quarter
Casa Pepe de la Judería, lunch & dinner
El Churrasco, lunch & dinner
El Caballo Rojo (reinvented says the female chef), lunch & dinner
Garum 2.1 Bistronomic, lunch & dinner
Bodegas Campos, lunch & dinner
Regadera, lunch & dinner (daily, as it's very popular with tourists due to its location on the river walk)
Córdoba restaurants OPEN on MON (you do have plenty of options)
La Cuchara de San Lorenzo, lunch only until 4 pm
*Terra Olea, lunch only but until 6---bookable on The Fork with a 9.8 rating
Almudaina---bookable on The Fork with a 9.5 rating
Taberna Salinas Casa el Piso, lunch & dinner
Taberna de Almodóvar, lunch & dinner
In the Judería or historic quarter
Casa Pepe de la Judería, lunch & dinner
El Churrasco, lunch & dinner
El Caballo Rojo (reinvented says the female chef), lunch & dinner
Garum 2.1 Bistronomic, lunch & dinner
Bodegas Campos, lunch & dinner
Regadera, lunch & dinner (daily, as it's very popular with tourists due to its location on the river walk)
Last edited by Maribel; Oct 30th, 2023 at 09:06 AM.
Oct 30th, 2023 | 11:20 AM
#30
Original Poster
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 25,398
Likes: 0
CUCHARA DE SAN LORENZO..Manitas deshuesadas con foie y Jamon Iberico... Coca de Foie!!!
What else do I need to begin my stay on a Sunday in Cordoba??????? Then I can pass out in my hotel and sleep very well, I think!!!
I km from hotel.....!!!
Good idea?
TERRA OLEA looks great for Monday...and with Virtuoso I get some kind of "tapas spread," (not their words...)at the Hospes.......I never end up using all those extra Virtuoso perks but I must say that the Virtuoso person is much quicker to respond than the actual hotel has been.....hotel itself has needed two e-mails over two days and then got the dates all wrong..but who cares..sure it is fabulous and looking forward.....
Maribel, you are a dream, and my Mexican friend had a laugh today when I mentioned "enchufe.." He first was surprised and then had a difficult time trying to translate this into English ("pull??") but we get the point! How can I ever thank you? You know "....mi casa.." and all that, in NYC....
What else do I need to begin my stay on a Sunday in Cordoba??????? Then I can pass out in my hotel and sleep very well, I think!!!
I km from hotel.....!!!
Good idea?
TERRA OLEA looks great for Monday...and with Virtuoso I get some kind of "tapas spread," (not their words...)at the Hospes.......I never end up using all those extra Virtuoso perks but I must say that the Virtuoso person is much quicker to respond than the actual hotel has been.....hotel itself has needed two e-mails over two days and then got the dates all wrong..but who cares..sure it is fabulous and looking forward.....
Maribel, you are a dream, and my Mexican friend had a laugh today when I mentioned "enchufe.." He first was surprised and then had a difficult time trying to translate this into English ("pull??") but we get the point! How can I ever thank you? You know "....mi casa.." and all that, in NYC....
Last edited by ekscrunchy; Oct 30th, 2023 at 11:23 AM.
Oct 30th, 2023 | 11:48 AM
#32
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,662
Likes: 0
On a Sunday, things are fairly quiet in Córdoba. I would just grab a map from the concierge desk and take a long stroll, having the desk staff guide you to interesting points close to the hotel, such as the Roman temple and the ground floor rooms and 12 interconnecting patios at the lovely Palacio de Viana, which is not a far walk at all.
Oct 30th, 2023 | 12:52 PM
#33
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,662
Likes: 0
The Palacio de Viana on Sundays is open from 10 am-3 pm. No need for advance reservation. Just purchase your downstairs, patios ticket, when you arrive.https://www.palaciodeviana.com
Oct 31st, 2023 | 07:20 AM
#34
Original Poster
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 25,398
Likes: 0
GREAT!!
This week will book train from Atocha to HOSPES for first destination of the trip..5 nights. I know many would say the is too long in Cordoba, but the first night I will be knocked out from overnight flight and train...etc... I just like wandering around and would be good weather, for me. Can always cut short by one day before departing for airport Jerez....
Amazing (to me, at least) how flight prices vary depending on time of year, or time of month.. (I guess I'm late to this topic and always nervous that might have to cancel for health reasons so tend to book late, and pay the horrific prices!!). Will not do the this time and will try for some kind of refundable ticket...
Just want to thank all, yet again, for making this so easy for me to organize an itinerary to what has become one of my favorite areas on earth for travel!!
Congrats to Real Madrid fans. Mbappe?
This week will book train from Atocha to HOSPES for first destination of the trip..5 nights. I know many would say the is too long in Cordoba, but the first night I will be knocked out from overnight flight and train...etc... I just like wandering around and would be good weather, for me. Can always cut short by one day before departing for airport Jerez....
Amazing (to me, at least) how flight prices vary depending on time of year, or time of month.. (I guess I'm late to this topic and always nervous that might have to cancel for health reasons so tend to book late, and pay the horrific prices!!). Will not do the this time and will try for some kind of refundable ticket...
Just want to thank all, yet again, for making this so easy for me to organize an itinerary to what has become one of my favorite areas on earth for travel!!
Congrats to Real Madrid fans. Mbappe?
Nov 1st, 2023 | 06:26 AM
#35
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 568
Likes: 0
Two great restaurants in the Vejer/ La Muela area (near Santa Lucia) are Venta Los Tres Carrilles and if you get a taste for good Italian (hard to find in this area) try Pizzeria/Resturante II Forno (Italian owned) the restaurants are 1 minute away by car on a winding road above the main road the N-340. Both were recommended by locals from Zahara de los Atunes and both are superb. Far from any tourist area, the restaurants are packed with the locals. If you venture into Barbate I highly recommend El Retinto Tapas. Wonderful restaurant with an extensive tapa menu and very reasonably priced.
Nov 1st, 2023 | 07:50 AM
#36
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,662
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Eks,
On your several trips to La Castillería in the tiny (200 inhabitants) hamlet of Santa Lucía below Vejer, you would have passed VENTA EL TORO each time. It´s on the right hand side, coming into the hamlet, just before making the left turn to reach La Castillería, literally next door
It´s a little whitewashed house with a tables on the greenery-filled outdoor terrace, and a few tables below this terrace, and across the street there are several tables in another covered wooden terrace sitting above the brook. The restaurant terrace is where José Andrés ate with his 3 daughters in the Andalucía episode of JA & Family in Spain.
Everyone comes here for their famous fried eggs & potatoes topped with Iberian ham (or morcilla or chorizo or....all 3, like José Andrés orders!). It's totally unpretentious but nonetheless very famous in the area. .
Here´s the video by gastro critic Fernando Hidrobo
On your several trips to La Castillería in the tiny (200 inhabitants) hamlet of Santa Lucía below Vejer, you would have passed VENTA EL TORO each time. It´s on the right hand side, coming into the hamlet, just before making the left turn to reach La Castillería, literally next door
It´s a little whitewashed house with a tables on the greenery-filled outdoor terrace, and a few tables below this terrace, and across the street there are several tables in another covered wooden terrace sitting above the brook. The restaurant terrace is where José Andrés ate with his 3 daughters in the Andalucía episode of JA & Family in Spain.
Everyone comes here for their famous fried eggs & potatoes topped with Iberian ham (or morcilla or chorizo or....all 3, like José Andrés orders!). It's totally unpretentious but nonetheless very famous in the area. .
Here´s the video by gastro critic Fernando Hidrobo
Nov 2nd, 2023 | 04:40 AM
#37
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 25,398
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Maribel, of course I did pass the VENTA El TORO...and next time will do more than just drive past!
CASA PEPE DE LA JUDERIA in cordoba seems to be open Sundays and Mondays (you may have mentioned this already). Tried to make a trial booking and they seemed to have no tables for the near future for one or two, but I am sure I can work this out. Question is, should I be considering it? The location seems very touristic but the Repsol seems to like it.......
I booked the HOSPES with Virtuoso! Now on the the flights!
CASA PEPE DE LA JUDERIA in cordoba seems to be open Sundays and Mondays (you may have mentioned this already). Tried to make a trial booking and they seemed to have no tables for the near future for one or two, but I am sure I can work this out. Question is, should I be considering it? The location seems very touristic but the Repsol seems to like it.......
I booked the HOSPES with Virtuoso! Now on the the flights!
Nov 2nd, 2023 | 05:12 AM
#38
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,662
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I have mixed feelings about Casa Pepe de la Judería. It was founded in 1920 and is a classic.
I've been several times, most recently before meeting you, alone, just for tapas at the marble bar, where the bar server ignored me for a long time while chatting with his local friends.
I've also eaten in the lovely upstairs dining room(s) with American friends on a day trip to the city. I chose it because I had a limited time to show them the sights, couldn't venture too far afield, and I wanted them to try typical Córdoba dishes that the restaurant does quite well.
We sat upstairs in atmospheric surroundings, with good service. They enjoyed it.
Gurmé Córdoba declares its salmorejo one of the best in the city, (along with Taberna Salinas, San Miguel Casa El Pisto, Garum 2.1, Bodegas Campos & La Salmoreteca in the food court, Mercado de la Victoria)
Yes, it's right in the middle of the tourist zone.
In an older Gastroactitud article, chef Paco Morales said about it, "sit on the roof terrace dining room (la azotea), come here for flamenquín, rabo de toro, berenjenas con miel, croquetas de cocido, queso de Sierra de Zuheros, jamón del Valle de los Pedroches (same quality as the Iberian ham from Huelva, Salamanca--Pedroches has its own D.O.P)
https://www.gastroactitud.com/pista/...es-en-cordoba/
But in a more recent El País article about where Michelin starred chefs eat (the Gastro section does this every Mon.), he mentioned these current favorites---
https://elpais.com/gastronomia/2023-...-morales.html-
You might find this Decanter article interesting, written by my friend Shawn Hennessey of Azahar Tapas
https://www.decanter.com/wine/cordob...lovers-488926/
My BFF, a luxury travel concierge, sends her high end clients, when on a day trip to Córdoba, to Almudaina, at the Plaza Campo de los Mártires, very near the Alcázar but outside of the "Medina". Open daily. I haven't been.
You have lots of choices here.
I've been several times, most recently before meeting you, alone, just for tapas at the marble bar, where the bar server ignored me for a long time while chatting with his local friends.
I've also eaten in the lovely upstairs dining room(s) with American friends on a day trip to the city. I chose it because I had a limited time to show them the sights, couldn't venture too far afield, and I wanted them to try typical Córdoba dishes that the restaurant does quite well.
We sat upstairs in atmospheric surroundings, with good service. They enjoyed it.
Gurmé Córdoba declares its salmorejo one of the best in the city, (along with Taberna Salinas, San Miguel Casa El Pisto, Garum 2.1, Bodegas Campos & La Salmoreteca in the food court, Mercado de la Victoria)
Yes, it's right in the middle of the tourist zone.
In an older Gastroactitud article, chef Paco Morales said about it, "sit on the roof terrace dining room (la azotea), come here for flamenquín, rabo de toro, berenjenas con miel, croquetas de cocido, queso de Sierra de Zuheros, jamón del Valle de los Pedroches (same quality as the Iberian ham from Huelva, Salamanca--Pedroches has its own D.O.P)
https://www.gastroactitud.com/pista/...es-en-cordoba/
But in a more recent El País article about where Michelin starred chefs eat (the Gastro section does this every Mon.), he mentioned these current favorites---
https://elpais.com/gastronomia/2023-...-morales.html-
You might find this Decanter article interesting, written by my friend Shawn Hennessey of Azahar Tapas
https://www.decanter.com/wine/cordob...lovers-488926/
My BFF, a luxury travel concierge, sends her high end clients, when on a day trip to Córdoba, to Almudaina, at the Plaza Campo de los Mártires, very near the Alcázar but outside of the "Medina". Open daily. I haven't been.
You have lots of choices here.
Last edited by Maribel; Nov 2nd, 2023 at 05:25 AM.
Nov 2nd, 2023 | 02:51 PM
#39
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 25,398
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So exciting! Will certainly have at least one traditonal meal..
For that traditional meal, do you have a preference between Casa el Pisto or Taberna Salinas? The eggplant and the salmorejo would be essential for me at either, and anything else you can recommend and I can "fit" in!!! And now I have ALMUDAINA on the list; I may have to spend 2 weeks in Cordoba alone!
There is a restaurant. LA VARA, in Brooklyn (you probably know all this already) that is Andaluz influenced (male chef owner is Basque, I believe) and it was there that I had one of the best eggplant dishes, with honey, that I'd ever eaten, so quite excited to try again, closer to their kitchens of origin, or at least closer than Brooklyn..
For that traditional meal, do you have a preference between Casa el Pisto or Taberna Salinas? The eggplant and the salmorejo would be essential for me at either, and anything else you can recommend and I can "fit" in!!! And now I have ALMUDAINA on the list; I may have to spend 2 weeks in Cordoba alone!
There is a restaurant. LA VARA, in Brooklyn (you probably know all this already) that is Andaluz influenced (male chef owner is Basque, I believe) and it was there that I had one of the best eggplant dishes, with honey, that I'd ever eaten, so quite excited to try again, closer to their kitchens of origin, or at least closer than Brooklyn..
Last edited by ekscrunchy; Nov 2nd, 2023 at 02:55 PM.
Nov 3rd, 2023 | 12:28 PM
#40
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,662
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Hi eks,
I thought I had answered your question but now can't find my answer.
They are both quite similar.
I prefer Taberna San Miguel Casa el Piso simply because it's outside of the Judería and gets one to see another, very different side of Córdoba, closer to the main square, Plaza de las Tendillas. It´s on a cute square, Plaza de San Miguel, the wait staff was friendly, they advised me well as to what to order and what to drink (I wanted a dry rather than sweet Montila Moriles wine), and it has a charming interior courtyard dining room lined with photos and that typical Cordoban charm.
Typical dishes---salmorejo, flamenquín, berenjenas con miel, Pisto, rabo de toro, etc. And before the main courses, they serve regañas, to which we've become addicted (from my 5-week trip I brought back 20 bags because we couldn't get them in Seattle---now we buy them every day here).
For dessert, tocino de cielo.
I thought I had answered your question but now can't find my answer.
They are both quite similar.
I prefer Taberna San Miguel Casa el Piso simply because it's outside of the Judería and gets one to see another, very different side of Córdoba, closer to the main square, Plaza de las Tendillas. It´s on a cute square, Plaza de San Miguel, the wait staff was friendly, they advised me well as to what to order and what to drink (I wanted a dry rather than sweet Montila Moriles wine), and it has a charming interior courtyard dining room lined with photos and that typical Cordoban charm.
Typical dishes---salmorejo, flamenquín, berenjenas con miel, Pisto, rabo de toro, etc. And before the main courses, they serve regañas, to which we've become addicted (from my 5-week trip I brought back 20 bags because we couldn't get them in Seattle---now we buy them every day here).
For dessert, tocino de cielo.
