WOW! I never expected this kind of response (and yes, Sandralist I did learn about the chocolate festival earlier last evening after I originally posted) so now the question I have to answer is where to stay. St. Cirq, thanks for that recommendation, too.

Lots of thinking to do now and fast I suspect.

We just got back from Umbria and if you're going to Orvieto from Fiumicino I wouldn't bother with the train I would just get a car at the airport and drive there. It's only 90 minutes away. Also, a couple of good restaurants...

http://www.ristoranteilcocco.it/?lang=en

http://www.isetteconsoli.it/

Il Cocco is pretty casual but with very good food and I Sette Consoli is very fine dining. Both were excellent.

I'm not sure if you contemplated Sienna. It is a beautiful town and I stayed there for a week. Good to walk around and lovely countryside to explore. Around there are little hillside villages/towns - Montepulciano is very pretty. Montalcino, Pienza - these are really small and quick - you can see each one in 1-2 hours. Pretty stroll through.

Yes to Umbria and yes, rent the car at FCO. We've gone through Kemwel (a US consolidator) for our last several trips and the price has been very good. We haven't been charged a drop fee and I go with the 0 deductible option.

I love Spoleto but there are many great options, including Spello. But I'd head straight for that main valley of Umbria that includes Spoleto/Montefalco/Trevi - gorgeous and so much to see and do.

I can recommend Genius Loci Inn outside of Bevagna. It is a well run and lovely place. They close at the end of October, so your timing would be perfect.

Hope you can make Orvieto part of your itinerary. Enchanting place!

Spending two nights in Orvieto in August. This will be my 4th time staying here. It's a really great hilltop town. And yes to Umbria over Rome!

Just one more a bit against-the-grain comment. I really enjoyed Orvieto, and also the trip to Civita de Bagnoregnio, but if your itinerary takes you from the airport straight to Umbria, missing Orvieto, you won't exactly die whispering "Rosebud". You can always do it on your next visit. Orvieto is cool, but all of Umbria is at LEAST as cool. Just sayin'.