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Company's Gone, London Report's On

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Company's Gone, London Report's On

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Old Mar 8th, 2009 | 09:10 AM
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Company's Gone, London Report's On

If you ever want to put your stamina to a test, try a 10 1/2 hour flight from London followed by a nearly 300-mile drive from airport to home, and then be met by out-of-town guests who beat you there and will stay with you for four nights. But I digress. We survived all and had a great time to boot, but I see a long nap in our future today!

There are so many London trip reports that I almost hate to write yet another one. I'll try to just stick with some facts that may be helpful to future travelers.

We flew non-stop on BA from Miami on Wednesday evening, Feb. 25. We had picked up our granddaughter from Hollywood, Fl. around 4:30 and left our car at FastPark - $7 a day with online coupon and fast, terrific service.

We stayed 6 nights at the Holiday Inn Kensington and were able to stick fairly closely to our original itinerary. We were blessed with lovely mild weather most of the time, making London feel spring-like. Lots of crocuses and snow-drops were poking up through the earth.

We bought two 7-day travelcards on Oyster, zones 1 and 2, and 1 single ticket at the airport, then 2 of us went to Victoria Station the first afternoon and bought a 7-day paper travelcard for the 2-for-1 discounts. The cost of each travelcard with supplement from Heathrow was 28.80 (at 10:50 AM) and the single was 4.00. We were happy with the travelcards as they were SO convenient, didn't have to worry about topping up or turning in at the end for any credits as one would with the PAYG cards, and we feel we got our money's worth.

This is how we spent our 6 days:

DAY 1 - THURSDAY
Checked into hotel, grabbed a lunch deal for 3.49 at Boots across the street. Hubby settled down for a nap and granddaughter and I headed to Victoria to buy paper travelcard. As it was so nice out - sunny, a chilly breeze but really lovely - we decided to walk to Buckingham Palace. Took lots of pictures, went into the "official" gift shops, then tubed back to hotel. There's an Internet Cafe just around the corner from the hotel, so we stopped in and sent off a few quick e-mails to let people know we'd arrived OK. It's 1 pound for 20 minutes. That evening, we strolled down Gloucester Rd. to the Hereford Arms Pub where we had a delicious roast beef dinner, which really could have been shared by two. Four large, tender slices of beef, mashed AND roasted potatoes, Yorkshire pudding and broccoli with carrots for 8.95. Washed it down with a pint of ale, and headed back to bed!

DAY 2 - FRIDAY
Had breakfast each morning in our room with pastries bought the night before at the Waitrose. The room came with a coffemaker and a supply of instant coffee, tea and hot chocolate, so along with some juice and fruit from the grocery, it got us started.

Went to the TKTS booth at Leicester Square but the pickings were a bit slim, since it was a Friday. So we walked over to the Queen's Theatre and bought tickets for that evening's performance of Les Mis.

We then tubed to the Tower of London where we started the free Yeoman's tour but decided to just head off on our own, as we had been here before. Just a glorious, mild, sunny morning! We strolled around, then headed for the crown jewels. There was no line at all - in fact, the guard told us we could keep going back and through the moving walkway as often as we liked. It was grand to be able to get up close to all of the exhibits and really take the time to see everything. We had brought a couple of sandwiches and some fruit with us, so we decided to take the cruise to Westminster and have lunch on the boat. We couldn't believe how lucky we were to be able to sit out on top and feel so comfortably warm while cruising down the Thames in February! The temperature had to be close to 60 degrees F.

Once at Westminster, we took lots of pix of Big Ben and Parliament, then walked to the Abbey and did the free audioguide tour. This was great, as it even plays bits of the choir singing and the organ booming through the church. Magnificent!

Tubed back and stopped in at the Waitrose for cheese, wine and a loaf of that wonderful bread to snack on at the hotel while getting ready for the theatre. We just grabbed some pizza near the theatre before the show. The production is stunning in every way, with a few visual images I will never forget. But the rows are so narrow that our legs felt crippled when we tried to stand up at the intermission. I'm nearly 5'9" with very long legs, not the typical build of a nineteenth century lady, that's for sure! Still a lovely evening.

DAY 3 - SATURDAY
Started off today with a trip to Camden Market - what a hoot! Amazing artwork on the buildings, crowds of young people, funky merchandise. Granddaughter loved it!

Tubed to Trafalgar Square and had lunch in the Crypt Cafe at St. Martin in the Fields. It was a bit cooler today, so we felt nice and cozy in the cellar! We had the lunch special of a roast pork sandwich and 3 side salads for 5.15.

Strolled over to the National Gallery and just took our time wandering through. Again, no crowds to speak of and we could get close and really admire the artwork. Hubby's knee was bothering him, so he went back to the hotel and granddaughter and I tubed to Covent Garden. She really enjoyed all the street performers and jsut the atmosphere of the place.

Stopped back at the Waitrose again and got more cheese and bread, some salami, olives and a chocolate/orange teacake for dessert and just made that our evening meal. The hotel room had a small table and a mini-fridge that we put to good use. Granddaughter went back out and saw La Clique that evening and we watched TV and relaxed. Another lovely day.

DAY 4 - SUNDAY
I call today our "off" day, as we just couldn't seem to get anything right. Blame it on Sunday closures and a lack of research on such things on my part! Oh well.
Went to the British Museum and concentrated mostly on the Egyptian, Greek and Roman antiquities. Saw the Rosetta Stone and dranddaughter took a zillion pictures.

Since we were "in the neighborhood", we decided to walk to the North Sea Fish Restaurant for some fish and chips. By now, hubby's big toe was also giving him pain, so walking wasn't a fun thing for him. Anyway, we finally find the place, but it's closed on Sundays. Grrrrrrr. So we turned around and stopped in at the little pub around the corner, I believe the Lord John Russell, and sat down for some fish and chips. Really terrible, 7.95 and the fish was strong - even the chips weren't very good.

Tubed to St. Paul station and walked across the Milennium Bridge so granddaughter could tour the Globe Theatre. Today the wind is really strong and cold, but at least there's still no rain. Hubby and I sat in Starbuck's and had hot drinks while she did the tour. She was over the top afterward, enjoyed every second of the Globe tour.

So on to my next planned event - back to St. Paul's for the free organ concert at 5 PM. It was now 4:30 and aside from the fish and chips mistake, I was proud of my scheduling. We entered the church and found a seat and just gaped at the gorgeous surroundings. The ceiling is breathtaking. After awhile, I walked over to ask a church official about the organ concert, and guess what? No concert tonight, just a service at 6:15. Arrrrwk! Strike two.

So off we head for the next part of my planned day - a visit to Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese Pub. By this time we're beginning to freeze, hubby's toe AND knee are hurting and spirits are flagging. We find the pub and several customers are exiting the door, which closes behind them. When I tried to open it, someone inside announces they're closed for the day - "Close at 5 on Sundays, Ma'm". I just want someone to helicopter us back to our hotel! Now we have to walk back towards St. Paul's to get to the tube station. But along the way, we see a pub and it's OPEN! Hooray. It's Ye Olde London Pub, it's warm and inviting and we head for the large room downstairs. Hey, it has the words "Ye" and "Olde" in it so this will work. We ordered our pints and realized we were hungry. Ordered several starter platters - focaccia bread with garlic and melted cheddar and a platter with sausage, roasted potatoes, fried onion rings, nachos and dips. Perfect. I think I planned it this way all along. Finally made it back to the hotel and to bed!

DAY 5 - MONDAY
Took the train to Windsor Castle from Paddington Station. We arrived at 11:30 just as the guards were departing, so we watched them parade down the street and enjoyed the band. A great way to start the visit. This place is just so incredible, it seems to go on and on and really looks like something out of a fairy tale. I don't know what I was expecting, but this far exceeded it!
Another gorgeous sunny day, although a chill wind, but still a great day to visit a castle. And again, no lines whatsoever. We were able to take our time wandering through the state apartments and the Queen's Doll House. In fact, I stood for awhile in the grand dining hall and imagined myself having dinner with the queen without anyone even passing me by. Everything about the visit was remarkable - even the little town full of quaint shops. Loved all of it and loved talking with the friendly people there.

We had lunch in a little cafe by the train station - I had a hot bowl of potato and leek soup, yum.

Back at the hotel, hubby decided he wanted to stay in for the evening, so I walked over to the KFC and brought back chicken and some sides and that was dinner. Granddaughter and I decided at the last minute that we still wanted to see "Billy Elliot", so we raced to the theatre and got terrific seats in the 2nd row of the first balcony (can't recall what they call it). I got a concession for being old, so 35.00 for me, 60.00 for granddaughter. What a performance - loved every minute of it! Once again, I'm crippled when I try to straighten out my bent and gnarled limbs afterward. I need to shrink before I try this again.

DAY 6 - TUESDAY

Rode the bus to Harrod's for a look-around. Everyone was most impressed by the food halls, but we just gawked, didn't spend any money.

Walked to V & A Museum. Found some crowds here, for the first time. It seems there were quite a few school groups there for the fashion exhibit, and it was indeed msot fascinating. Once again, granddaughter took pictures of every design and detail. We were disappointed that the Theatre and Performance Galleries wouldn't open until mid-March, but we enjoyed it nonetheless.

We walked back to Gloucester Rd. and had lunch at The Patisserie across from the tube station. I had chicken noodle soup, hubby had a greek salad, granddaughter had a dressed baked potato. Bill with sodas was 19.40.

The day was turning ugly, with spitting rain and cold winds. We had originally planned a walk to Kensington Gardens, but decided to just ride the bus around and see a few things. We rode to Marble Arch, where we got off and got some souvenirs in the shops along Oxford St. Back on the bus to Picadilly Circus, just to see it, then the tube back home. Time to pack. Bummer.

We tried to eat at the Hereford Arms again for dinner, but they said they were completely "booked." There were empty tables, but I guess they were reserved. I didn't know you could reserve at a pub! So we walked back and at at the ASK across from our hotel. Nice atmosphere, comforting Italian food with a bottle of red wine for our final night. Nice that we could just walk across the street when we were done.

Our hotel was fine, terrific location of course, but there's still a lot of renovation going on. Even so, it was quiet in our room. The rooms are like typical American motel rooms, although with 2 double beds vs. queen-size. The major drawback was a lack of storage space. There was only one drawer and that was in the desk, so we had to live out of our suitcases for the entire time. Still, it made for a quick packing up when it was time to leave!

I wouldn't change anything we did, aside from a few things on Sunday (!). We saw so much but never felt rushed or pushed for time. Six days in London with one side-trip worked out perfectly for us. This was our second visit to London and we enjoyed it immensely. There's just so much to see and do, it's so easy to get around, and we really do love the people. What a fun trip! Hope I didn't bore you to death. If anyone has a question, I'll be happy to respond.
Thanks to all for your help.
Hagan is offline  
Old Mar 8th, 2009 | 09:30 AM
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Thank you so much for the report. It sounds as if you had a wonderful time. I am not at all bored at detail because I use other's trip reports to help me plan my own trip -- therefore the more detail the better!

I am a bit concerned about the theatre seats that you report on. I had to really beg my 6'5" husband and 6'4" son to agree to see at least one show -- the small seats will just give them something else to complain about! Nice to know in advance so that I can warn them.

Laura
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Old Mar 8th, 2009 | 09:56 AM
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Enjoyed your report. I know I want to get back to London!

You did well to get this out so quickly as your guests must have just left!

Thanks!
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Old Mar 8th, 2009 | 09:57 AM
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Great report, Hagan - thanks!
Can you provide logistic details about your visit to Windsor castle - like how you got there and back?
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Old Mar 8th, 2009 | 10:02 AM
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Glad you had a good time. I love the area around your hotel. We always stay at the Bailey, across from the Herreford Arms. Funny we never tried it always going a bit further down to the ANglesea Arms. Might give it a try next week.

A theatre tip for long legs, try to get seats in the little boxes (loges) along the sides. They have chairs that can be moved around and you can even stand and stretch. You sometimes have a slightly blocked view of entances from stage right or left but I can put up with that for the comfort factor.
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Old Mar 8th, 2009 | 10:14 AM
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Great report, and sounds like a great trip. I love how you started by saying the weather was so good -- obviously, you have a very positive outlook, since your descriptions of the weather on Millenium Bridge, and on the afternoon of your last day actually sounds downright nasty! --

Last summer we went to Camden Market for the first time, with our daughter (21), son (24) and his girlfriend (23) and also loved it.

Despite having been in London six or seven times in my life, I've never been to Windsor -- definitely on my list for next time!!

And as to those overnight guests - it's good you started by saying you enjoyed their visit, because I was going to say "good riddance" (just kidding)
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Old Mar 8th, 2009 | 11:00 AM
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Avalon,
We stayed at Bailey's on our last visit and would have done so again, but we needed a room for 3 and they weren't able to accommodate us. Do give the Hereford Arms a try next time, it's a great little place. We love the area too, and can't imagine staying anywhere else.
Thanks to all for the positive responses. I'm so dead tired, I can only imagine how bad this report will look to me tomorrow when I've rested a bit! And yes, I wrote this 2 hours after our company departed.
As for directions to Windsor Castle, we just took the tube to Paddington Station and bought our return tickets for Windsor at the ticket counter that very morning. Since there were 3 of us, we got some sort of "travel together" discount so the total was 16.80. The agent will tell you what platform your train departs from (ours was #1) and how to transfer at Slough. The trip from Paddington to Slough is only about 15 minutes. At Slough, you will see signs when you get off the train for the train to Windsor. It's really very easy and only takes a minute or so. Then it's just another 10 minutes at most and you're in Windsor. Really very easy. I think Windsor is not to be missed. The gorgeous chapel, the state rooms, the town, we just loved it all. We've been to Hampton Court Palace and Warwick Castle on our previous trip, but this was our first time to Windsor. It was one of the highlights of our trip.
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Old Mar 8th, 2009 | 11:19 AM
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Hagan:

Nicely done with a lot of very useful information. 'Crocuses and snow-drops poking up thru the earth' make me long to return home for a visit.

Thanks for posting your trip report.

Sandy
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Old Mar 8th, 2009 | 12:04 PM
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Hagan, refresh my tired old brain. Do you live in CFL and did we used to correspond?
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Old Mar 8th, 2009 | 12:07 PM
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Avalon,
I live in Debary, Fl. Do you live in Lake Mary? I sort of remember that. I've posted for quite some time here. Maybe it was about the trip to Paris and Rome we took with our grandsons two years ago?
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Old Mar 8th, 2009 | 12:31 PM
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great report Hagan.

how I sympathise with your off-day - it's so comforting that other people have those too.!

hope you get some sleep soon,

regards, ann
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Old Mar 8th, 2009 | 12:43 PM
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Wonderful report, Hagan!

Lee Ann
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Old Mar 8th, 2009 | 01:05 PM
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Hagan, I live in Maitland. We need to organize a CFL GTG! I know mayo lives nearby and maybe we could coerce neopatrick to make the trip over.
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Old Mar 8th, 2009 | 01:30 PM
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Hi Hagen,

I enjoyed your report and I am glad you decided to write it. We are heading to London in a few months for the first time and I got a lot of great tips from you!
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Old Mar 8th, 2009 | 01:55 PM
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Avalon,
Well, you're just down the road! We definitely need to plan a GTG. I think there are a few others around too.
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Old Mar 8th, 2009 | 07:05 PM
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HI Hagan- Thank you so much for writing this trip report when you're so exhausted! I enjoyed every bit of it. May I ask you a few questions?

1) Did any attraction site ask for the travelcard when you used the 2-for-1 voucher? And did any place ask for 2 travelcards instead of 1?

2) You stayed at the low rise Holiday Inn kensington, right? Not the high-rise HI Kensington Forum, I presume. How's the hotel? They were doing renovations when I stayed at the Forum last Nov.

I hope your granddaughter realized how lucky she is!
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Old Mar 8th, 2009 | 07:36 PM
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Count me in the group that loves detailed trip reports! I enjoyed this immensely! Thanks for taking the time and energy to post so soon after your return.
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Old Mar 8th, 2009 | 07:54 PM
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Hi Hagan,

I just read part of your report and I am looking forward to reading the rest. How are your grandsons?
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Old Mar 8th, 2009 | 07:54 PM
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loved the report...can never get enough of reading how people handle london...the best part has to be being able to share it with your grandaughter, how nice that she wanted to tour with you...i have great memories of trips to london with my mum...it's so great to have those
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Old Mar 9th, 2009 | 08:02 AM
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YK,
I always just slid my paper travelcard in to the cashier along with my voucher for that particular attraction. No one ever asked to see a second ticket.
The HI Kensington is still under renovation. They have one mostly working elevator, which shuddered at times and seemed to always need help closing the door all the way if we stopped on the 3rd floor! The main lobby entrance is still closed. Since they're supposed to become a Crowne Plaza next month, they need to hustle. I think I preferred Bailey's a little better, but it was fine on the whole. Nice TV's, good beds, just not much room and not much storage.
Cafegoddess,
Thanks for asking about the grandsons. They're doing great. The older one graduates high school in May and has received a full scholarship to Stetson University in Deland. He says he thinks he'll take Italian for his language course because he intends to go back someday!
The younger one stays very busy with band, orchestra and varsity basketball and will be a senior next year. He still talks about how great it was to spend an extra 3 days in Paris due to lost passport! We think their trip really left an impression on them, broadened their views and is still helping to shape their goals. So money and time very well spent!
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