Hello all, this will be our first trip to southern France. We've been to Paris, but Bordeaux seems like a different world from what I've read. Here's some background, so I'd appreciate any help you can give us in making our plans.

My husband and I are in our late 20s. He is a surfer and is dying to see Hossegor, Lacanau and Mundaka (in northern Spain). From the maps I've seen, they are very close to one another. I am absolutely not a surfer, but I enjoy experiencing other cultures no matter where they are, so I'll have a good time regardless.

The waves are best in late September and early October, so we're thinking of going then. What can we expect as far as weather, crowds, etc.? Also, do you have any suggestions on where to stay? We would prefer something around $80-$100 a night if that's possible and we'll stay for a week. Any insight you can provide would be greatly appreciated! What is this area like - besides the big surf?

Many thanks!
Olivia

Well, I hope by this time your husband has been to Hawaii or at least to the Mexican Pipeline where they actually have "surf" worthy of the name...but the beach thing in Europe is certainly worthwhile. But I would do a lot of research about Biarritz or see what others have to say about it specifically because I think that as a destination it may be lacking compared to some of the other twons nearby.

Have a GREAT trip.

Biarritz is pretty much the capital of European surfing. It's a big, glitzy casino-type town, extremely crowded in summer and probably into mid-September. Nearby St-Jean-de-Luz is far more attractive and manageable, IMO, with a lovely beach and port and pedestrian center in the old town.

Why are you going to Bordeaux? It's not a surfing destination, and if you only have a week and plan to do the Spanish beaches you mention, plus the Biarritz area, you won't really have time for Bordeaux. That said, Bordeaux is a nice city, with beautiful 18th-century architecture, many fine restaurants, a good art museum, some beautiful parks, and plenty of good wine. We like to stay at the Hôtel Etche-Ona there, but it's been renovated in recent years and I don't think you'd get a room there now for under $100.

The reason I mentioned Bordeaux is because we have to fly into it to get there from the US. Unless I'm mistaken - please let me know if there's another route.

We went to Hawaii last year to stay on the North Shore of Oahu and it was spectacular, so we've decided to do something completely different this time. What other cities do you recommend for charm if the areas I mentioned are lacking somewhat?

Thanks!

You can fly into CDG and then into Biarritz. I wouldn't go to Bordeaux.

I'd also investigate flying from London to Biarritz. I think there are cheap flights on RyanAir and maybe others.

Bayonne is another nice town in the area. And there are many Basque villages to explore inland.

Biarritz is a surf town??? Who knew??? I was only there for two days, back in 1999. My friends and I stopped there on our travels of France and Spain. I don't remember seeing any big waves.

I don't know if I would describe Biarritz as "big." I thought it was rather pokey. However, it was crowded in June. There is a casino, and several rather posh shops (Prada, for example) in the town.

I think Biarritz WAS a very glamourous place. Now, its star has faded. I still liked the beach, the bougainvillea-covered houses, and the walk up the hill along the beach to a square with a Catholic church.

Sorry, can't remember the name of the place we stayed. It was an apartment attached to someone's house. My friend, Christina, arranged it (she lives in Paris). The apartment was very dusty and there was a porn collection in a drawer in the kitchen that kept us laughing for hours.

St. Cirq knows far more about France than I do.

Mimi cigalchanta has been to Biarritz. Maybe you will receive a response from her.

Thin: The casino and several other landmarks (I think including the Palais, Empress Eugénie's residence and now a majestic hotel) fairly recently had a complete facelift in an effort to reclaim those glamor days, and last time I was there, it wasn't the least bit pokey. Of course, it was late July or early August, and the place was mobbed!

Ok, tell me more about St. Jean. I once was in Puerto Banus in Spain in the winter and it was truly desolate. Is this area like that in October?

Hi Olivia,
if you want to visit Hossegor, you are certainly much better off beginning with Biarritz (if you haven't bought yet your tickets ...). It only takes around 40 minutes driving (against 2 hours from Bordeaux). Check http://www.viamichelin.com for distances.

I wouldn't be afraid about the area being desolate in October. Bayonne and Biarritz are not so small, and all the towns in the coast don't rely solely in tourism ...

As you are doing a surf pilgrimage, I would add a couple of places in Spain : Zarauz and Sopelana. Bakio is also nice. Mind you, the waves are not so spectacular as in other countries (maybe for another year you would want to check Ericeira in Portugal), but you will always find people surfing even during the winter.
Here you have some recent pictures of the "left" wave in Mundaka, and other beaches :
http://www.frussurf.com/playas/mundaka.htm
http://personales.com/espana/bilbao/...aya/playas.htm

To stay in Mundaka, maybe the Hotel Mundaka, Hotel Atalaya and Hotel El Puerto. I don't have their address right now, but they get decent reviews.
http://www.surfline.com/travel/surfm...ce/mundaka.cfm

If you happen to speak french, the following itinerary is quite nice (given or take a restaurant not so interesting any more ...)
http://www.lepoint.fr/voyages/document.html?did=146513

Rgds, Covadonga


http://www.mundaka.org/menudia.htm

I was in Biarritz in May about 5 years ago. I body surfed off the beach a few miles south of the city center. The waves were OK, but it all depends on the weather as you know. My other experience in body surfing is SoCal and the Netherlands. Sometimes it is good, sometimes dangerous, and sometimes it's as flat as glass. Wind surfing is more popular than regular surfing in Europe.

Biarritz is a decent sized town with plenty of sleeps and eats in all price ranges. I spent a couple of days. There was no problem getting a room and a discount in May. Another time I tried to visit in August but the town was booked solid. The villages you mentioned might be a bore if there is no surf.

I also recomend San Sebastian, just over the border in Spain. It is a beautiful charming city and habor, but not much for surfers.

You can contact the Hotel Edouard VII in Biarritz (http://hotel-edouardvii.com/) to check on accommodations. It should be in your price range during late September/early October. There are also a number of excellent country homes (Casas Rurals) in and around Hondarribia (the Basque Country) as well as other areas along the coast that will only cost you only between 40 and 55 Euros a night for a double room and are within a easy drive of all of the surfing areas of Pays Basque and País Vasco. You can check with Basque Country Travels for more information on the country homes. You should also visit Maribels Guides web site (http://maribelsguides.com/) to download the files for this area. You will find them very useful.

You may also want check out the Biarritz Surf Festival page to obtain a little more information on surfing in the area. (http://www.biarritzsurffestival.com/)

We love Biarritz--beautiful to walk around there and a gorgeous seafront and lovely streets. I have certainly seen the surfers there but don't recall that they are a dominant feature of the lively town. We used to go to the beach there almost 40 years ago when things were less developed--but it is lovely.

As for Hossegor, it's a neat little spot, think a little resort spot along the lines of Easthampton--but not as glitzy--cute shops, food markets, little restos and lots of families who have weekend places there. We like it there a lot--note the cork trees all over.

Not much info from me on surfing, but I love the area.