Would like to get some recommendations on places to eat, drink, and/or just enjoy the views in Portovenere & Cinque Terre. <BR> <BR>Thanks in advance!

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Al Castello (a restaurant right side the old castle) in Vernazza is quite good, and reasonably priced. The views are also spectacular, particularly after a long day of hiking the trails in the Cinque Terre! Try the pesto and the anchovies, which are local specialties.

Trattoria Gianni in Vernazza (good food, great views of harbor scene, friendly wait-staff); Giak on old side of tunnel in Montrosso al Mare (fantatsic platters of fresh fish and shell fish, wonderful antipasti table).

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I second Gianni's in Vernazza. That's where I had my very first meal in Italy and the trophi al pesto was amazing. Maybre it was just because it was my first meal bt it's never been replicated. And Castello has the best views in Vernazza. Finish off the evening with brandy at the Blue Dolphin.

I second the Al Castello recommendation. not too crowded, delicious food, gorgeous view......beautiful scenery (that includes the waiters)

One more time

Grasshopper, where did you stay in Cinqueterre? In Vernazza? I've been there once before, in 1987; stayed in Vernazza for two nights and loved it. We're leaning toward staying in Vernazza on our upcoming trip, but I was just wondering if you stayed elsewhere and, if so, what you thought. Thanks!

Capo, My thoughts about the CT kind of go against the Fodors grain. On the plus side; the hikes, views, and the pesto. On the negative side, it is absolutely full of American's, toting their "Europe through the back door" guides in plain view. I think Rick Steves (and I'm a Rick fan) ruined the CT.<BR><BR>That said, the hikes are great so I think a couple of days spent there are worthwhile, provided you have enough time to do all of the other things that Italy has to offer (is a lifetime enough for that?) We did the roll into town thing and showed up in Vernazza in very early May, 1998, without any reservations. Our hope was to stay at Trattoria Giannis inn but one or Rick's own tour groups was there so that was out. But the woman at the bar talked to the man at the tabbacci who talked to the man at the souvenier stand who talked to the lady who owned the gelato store (so maybe you just want to bypass everyone else and start there!) who looked us over and took us up some tiny steps til we reached a room she was letting ($40USD per night per person). That's a standard way of getting a room there and others we met told us they went through the same routine and got apartments with kitchens and views for the same rate. I do think that Vernazza is probably one of the more heavily visited towns and perhaps Corniglia would be less crowded.

Thanks, Grasshopper. I loved your bit about "talking to the man who talked to the lady who talked to.." :~) <BR><BR>I was thinking about staying in Monterosso, because it's larger and apparently has a very charming old town, but my girlfriend is leaning towards Vernazza, and she's never stayed there before, so I think that's probably where we'll stay. We found a place with a view of the harbor and may grab that, rather than waiting until we arrive. <BR><BR>Manarola and Riomaggiore also sound nice. The only town that doesn't sound all that appealing to me is Corniglia, and only because it's not on the water. <BR><BR>Since I was there fifteen years ago, it will be interesting to see how much Vernazza has changed. In my opinion, places usually attract a lot of tourists for a reason that usually goes beyond promotion/marketing; they do it because they're very attractive in some way (or many ways.) With its harbor, castle, and pastel-colored houses, Vernazza remains one of the most picturesque villages I've ever seen.

any more recommendations on places to eat?

I cannot believe that someone else raved about the trophie al pesto in Vernazza! I'm neither a fan of pasta nor pesto, but there was just something special about that dish.

ttt

In vernazza, on the church side of the square is Il capitano's. Waiter worked in NY for 30 years!, retired there and picks up an extra lira during the high season. 8 of us asked him to intro us to the local cuisine, he ordered for us, and the bill was really reasonable with wine less than $150 US. Then they bring out the after dinner liquor after the bill has been paid.Very civilized, non?

Thanks Edward....any other restaurant recommendations for the Cinque Terre?

bttt

Sherryl,<BR><BR>We really enjoyed the Il Pirata in Monterrosso al Mare. The place was filled with "locals" ---so that should tell you something. In fact, we ate there two of our four nights in the Cinque Terre.<BR><BR>Directions: Facing the town when standing on the exit from the parking jetty---walk strait ahead about 60 yards. The restaurant will be on your right. It has both outdoor and indoor seating.<BR><BR>All the fish dishes were great