Planned a family trip to Provence to visit my daughter's school exchange partner and then we're off to Paris for a week, where we are renting an apartment from someone who lives in our area. In retrospect, I kind of wish that I had divided the time a bit differently, allowing for more time (including Christmas in Provence,) because I hear such lovely things about the serenity/charm of Provencal Christmas. However, I didn't want to impose too long on our Provencal hosts, who are offering us a house and car--pretty nice! So, we will then go up to Paris for a week (apartment rental could only be arranged for a week--couldn't reserve for less time)and will thus be at the apartment for Christmas.

We've been before at this time of year, but it was between Christmas and New Year's and the focus was then mostly on dining, museums and New Year's lights. This time, renting an apartment, I imagine that we will cook more at home. Any thoughts about good family outings in Paris at this time of year? I hear that there are wonderful free concerts. Anyone have a cozy restaurant that they would recommend, perhaps for part of the Christmas holiday? I tend to like hotel restaurants at the holidays....

Thanks for any suggestions!
letour

Your family might enjoy ice skating in the rink by the Hôtel de Ville, as well as the major department stores' displays and lights.

As for small restaurants, head to our favorite, Au Petit Marguery, in the 13th. It's a wonderful old bistro with excellent food and reasonable prices--also a very pleasant waitstaff. Game will be on the menu (it's about 40 Euros for 3 courses), along with the incredibly delicious sautéed fresh wood mushrooms. Yum!

Any of the Christian Constant restaurants, such as Le Violon d'Ingrès, would also be nice. L'Ardoise and Le Soufflé, on the rue Mont-Thabor in the 1st, are good, as is the Bistro de Breteuil in the 7th.

Winter in Provence--how lucky you are!

Thanks for the tips, Jean. Do you like/know Allard, which is also an old-fashioned brasserie in the 6th? I tend to like to go there each visit.

I am especially looking forward to the Provence leg. We'll be in Aix-en-Provence, and really, essentially, be living with denizens. I hope to travel over to Eygalieres to revisit Le Petit Bru in winter (inside dining, unfortunately) and some local folks there.
I had thought about the skating in Paris. Not sure I want to lug skates across the pond, but rentals are probably possible.

letour

In Provence, head to the santon fairs; quite a number of towns host them, and they're great fun. If you can get down to Marseille to see the Carbonnel studio and the adjacent museum you'll be in for a treat.

Allard seemed very hold and not too charming-In fact my Mom and I had reservations there and walked out.