Carnival ~ Carnaval! Nice & French Riviera in Feb (Menton, Eze, Antibes)
Mar 14th, 2016, 12:41 PM
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BUS AND TRAM INFO
There are ticket machines at all the tram stops. One ride costs 1.50 Euro. You can buy a discount ticket of 10 rides for 10 Euros, credit cards accepted. You can pay for more than one person on the card at a time. In other words, if you have 2 people traveling together, validate the card at the little yellow machines on the tram twice. (There might also be machines on the platform, but we always seemed to arrive just in time to jump on.) These tickets are also good for the busses and there is a machine in the busses to validate them. (You must also validate train tickets, but only at machines in the stations, not in the trains. Be careful to always validate tickets. We did see agents checking tickets on both trams and trains and also saw one guy with lots of excuses, but apparently no validation, getting a fine. Fines are pretty hefty according to posters displayed.) All bus and tram tickets also include a free transfer. You just revalidate the ticket on the second mode of transport. THERE IS AN EXCEPTION IF TWO OF YOU ARE USING THE 10 RIDE CARD AND TRANSFERRING. You only put the ticket in ONE TIME on the second bus/tram.
We used two packets of 10 in our 2 weeks in Nice and they were very handy.
There are ticket machines at all the tram stops. One ride costs 1.50 Euro. You can buy a discount ticket of 10 rides for 10 Euros, credit cards accepted. You can pay for more than one person on the card at a time. In other words, if you have 2 people traveling together, validate the card at the little yellow machines on the tram twice. (There might also be machines on the platform, but we always seemed to arrive just in time to jump on.) These tickets are also good for the busses and there is a machine in the busses to validate them. (You must also validate train tickets, but only at machines in the stations, not in the trains. Be careful to always validate tickets. We did see agents checking tickets on both trams and trains and also saw one guy with lots of excuses, but apparently no validation, getting a fine. Fines are pretty hefty according to posters displayed.) All bus and tram tickets also include a free transfer. You just revalidate the ticket on the second mode of transport. THERE IS AN EXCEPTION IF TWO OF YOU ARE USING THE 10 RIDE CARD AND TRANSFERRING. You only put the ticket in ONE TIME on the second bus/tram.
We used two packets of 10 in our 2 weeks in Nice and they were very handy.
Mar 15th, 2016, 10:12 AM
#23
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WEDNESDAY – ÈZE AND L’OPÉRA DE NICE (BARBIERI DI SIVIGLIA)
Today was our day trip to Eze, a medieval hilltop village perched high on a rocky peak overlooking the Mediterranean Sea (can’t beat the beautiful views out over the red tile roofs) and 1400 feet above sea level. At the top is the Jardin Exotique castle (we laughed at the Drones Forbidden sign at the entrance!), the Cactus Garden with serene statues scattered around, only overshadowed by the ruins of a 12th Century and of course more views. The streets are the typical narrow, sloping cobblestoned alleys with a fountain here or a hidden courtyard there. There were plenty of boutiques, but not many of the expected souvenir shops. These seemed overall to be much higher quality.
I recommend going first thing in the morning. The town was quite empty and charming mid-morning. When you arrive, stop at the tourist office down a short street on the right and get a map of the village. It was closed at lunch when we were leaving around 12:30, and when a few tour groups were coming in.
For anyone searching for transportation info – do NOT take the train to seaside Èze-Sur-Mer unless you want a 1 ½ hour hike up the mountainside to the village. We took the tram to the Vauban stop in Nice where there is a main bus terminal (get your Nice bus/tram map and bus schedules there), picked up bus 112 (or 82) to Eze and were treated to spectacular views along the Moyenne Corniche (the middle level of a set of 3 roads that wind along the coast – upper, middle height and lower roads).
From the ruins, we had seen some flags down below so we decided to head to that area to see if there was a café with a view. What we found was the Chateau Eza, one of the line of Small Luxury Hotels, 5*. They had a terrasse so we went through the check-in area and were treated to more amazing views. Parfait! We were also treated to the menu! Cognacs ranged from 3600 – 7600 Euros. WHAT! When the waiter came, I ordered one to see his reaction, but he took it in stride – must be used to that – and then we quickly changed the order to Orangina and hot chocolate instead. On the way out, we noted a 5500 Euro bottle of champagne on display, and a 6000 Euro bottle. At least the latter one came with its own display case! We were informed that they sold one of those in August! Must be nice! (no pun intended!) Funny that the sodas were displayed behind a small grate but the champagnes were out in the open. Go figure.
We decided to walk the trail – Sentier Nietzsche - down to the seaside train station. It started out well with steps but about 10 minutes into the walk, those turned into rough cut rock slabs, then a series of loose rocks and gravel on the steep trail. The scenery was rugged through the rocky peaks, then more and more beautiful as we approached the coast. Naturally we were glad we were going down and not the other direction. A show-off jogger passed us on the trail going up, then later passed us again going back down.
We got to the train station after 1 ½ hours although many people supposedly make it in an hour. Instead of going directly back to Nice, we got off the train at Villefranche, a pretty seaside town, where we had an outdoor seafood meal about 4 feet from the water. This was the only restaurant which was open during the normally forbidden eating times between 2:30 and 7:00. I had a wonderful mixed grill of tuna, swordfish and a sea bass with a delicious carrot timball, followed by scrumptious caramelized apples flambéed with calvados and served with cinnamon ice cream. An excellent meal! Not crowded, very relaxing watching the fishing boats, then it was back on the train to Nice.
OPERA DE NICE
We bought tickets to the Barber of Seville for tonight, sung in Italian with French subtitles projected above the stage. It was not the traditional version, rather it was set in the 1950’s in Ohio which was a bit strange, especially for my husband who had never been to the opera before, but what fun to sit in the ornate boxes overlooking the orchestra and stage. The Opera House is a couple of blocks from the the flower market and Vieille Ville so very convenient. I’ll let the pictures speak for themselves.
Today was our day trip to Eze, a medieval hilltop village perched high on a rocky peak overlooking the Mediterranean Sea (can’t beat the beautiful views out over the red tile roofs) and 1400 feet above sea level. At the top is the Jardin Exotique castle (we laughed at the Drones Forbidden sign at the entrance!), the Cactus Garden with serene statues scattered around, only overshadowed by the ruins of a 12th Century and of course more views. The streets are the typical narrow, sloping cobblestoned alleys with a fountain here or a hidden courtyard there. There were plenty of boutiques, but not many of the expected souvenir shops. These seemed overall to be much higher quality.
I recommend going first thing in the morning. The town was quite empty and charming mid-morning. When you arrive, stop at the tourist office down a short street on the right and get a map of the village. It was closed at lunch when we were leaving around 12:30, and when a few tour groups were coming in.
For anyone searching for transportation info – do NOT take the train to seaside Èze-Sur-Mer unless you want a 1 ½ hour hike up the mountainside to the village. We took the tram to the Vauban stop in Nice where there is a main bus terminal (get your Nice bus/tram map and bus schedules there), picked up bus 112 (or 82) to Eze and were treated to spectacular views along the Moyenne Corniche (the middle level of a set of 3 roads that wind along the coast – upper, middle height and lower roads).
From the ruins, we had seen some flags down below so we decided to head to that area to see if there was a café with a view. What we found was the Chateau Eza, one of the line of Small Luxury Hotels, 5*. They had a terrasse so we went through the check-in area and were treated to more amazing views. Parfait! We were also treated to the menu! Cognacs ranged from 3600 – 7600 Euros. WHAT! When the waiter came, I ordered one to see his reaction, but he took it in stride – must be used to that – and then we quickly changed the order to Orangina and hot chocolate instead. On the way out, we noted a 5500 Euro bottle of champagne on display, and a 6000 Euro bottle. At least the latter one came with its own display case! We were informed that they sold one of those in August! Must be nice! (no pun intended!) Funny that the sodas were displayed behind a small grate but the champagnes were out in the open. Go figure.
We decided to walk the trail – Sentier Nietzsche - down to the seaside train station. It started out well with steps but about 10 minutes into the walk, those turned into rough cut rock slabs, then a series of loose rocks and gravel on the steep trail. The scenery was rugged through the rocky peaks, then more and more beautiful as we approached the coast. Naturally we were glad we were going down and not the other direction. A show-off jogger passed us on the trail going up, then later passed us again going back down.
We got to the train station after 1 ½ hours although many people supposedly make it in an hour. Instead of going directly back to Nice, we got off the train at Villefranche, a pretty seaside town, where we had an outdoor seafood meal about 4 feet from the water. This was the only restaurant which was open during the normally forbidden eating times between 2:30 and 7:00. I had a wonderful mixed grill of tuna, swordfish and a sea bass with a delicious carrot timball, followed by scrumptious caramelized apples flambéed with calvados and served with cinnamon ice cream. An excellent meal! Not crowded, very relaxing watching the fishing boats, then it was back on the train to Nice.
OPERA DE NICE
We bought tickets to the Barber of Seville for tonight, sung in Italian with French subtitles projected above the stage. It was not the traditional version, rather it was set in the 1950’s in Ohio which was a bit strange, especially for my husband who had never been to the opera before, but what fun to sit in the ornate boxes overlooking the orchestra and stage. The Opera House is a couple of blocks from the the flower market and Vieille Ville so very convenient. I’ll let the pictures speak for themselves.
Mar 15th, 2016, 05:11 PM
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I am thoroughly enjoying this! We were in Nice and the area in May 2014 and absolutely loved it!
We did the other food tour, the Taste of Nice, and it was excellent! I am so sorry yours was a mess. We really liked the socca.
DH was there for work, so I did day trips on my own to both Eze and Antibes. Absolutely loved both. I agree about the shops in Eze. I expected tacky, but was pleasantly surprised!
Waiting for more
We did the other food tour, the Taste of Nice, and it was excellent! I am so sorry yours was a mess. We really liked the socca.
DH was there for work, so I did day trips on my own to both Eze and Antibes. Absolutely loved both. I agree about the shops in Eze. I expected tacky, but was pleasantly surprised!
Waiting for more
Mar 16th, 2016, 06:45 AM
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kwren--Sounds like some of the foods we tried were the same. Trying to remember what all we had, lol! We started with a really light bread from the outdoor market, it was super light and had a hint of orange. DH and I went back another day and got the lemon one. Both were really good! We had candied fruit, wine, olives, gelato, and a swiss chard dessert that looked like a lemon bar and was really good! For the soccer we got on the tram and went to a further out neighborbood to what is either the best or oldest or something (lol) and we sat for a while there and had loads of soccer and more wine, and an older man came by to sing. Apparently he is famous for that. The tour was very good and I would definitely suggest it to others!
Mar 16th, 2016, 11:31 AM
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LOL, auto correct...socca not soccer
The thing is with tours, you just never know for sure. We got started on doing them when we went to Mexico and a SIL who owns/runs one of the big food tours in Puerto Vallarta took us out. So we have been doing them ever since and really enjoy them.
Did you go to Fragonard in Eze by chance? They have a short tour that was pretty good. No hard sells afterward either, but I am a sucker for pretty things/scents so I knew I was going to make purchases anyway
The thing is with tours, you just never know for sure. We got started on doing them when we went to Mexico and a SIL who owns/runs one of the big food tours in Puerto Vallarta took us out. So we have been doing them ever since and really enjoy them. Did you go to Fragonard in Eze by chance? They have a short tour that was pretty good. No hard sells afterward either, but I am a sucker for pretty things/scents so I knew I was going to make purchases anyway
Mar 16th, 2016, 12:16 PM
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We walked by it on the way down to sea level (there is an entry to the path down behind that building). My husband didn't want to go into all the scents so we just kept walking...down!
But I did go into the small Fragonard shop just before the main wall to the village. They managed to get a decent amount of my money!
But I did go into the small Fragonard shop just before the main wall to the village. They managed to get a decent amount of my money!
Mar 16th, 2016, 01:16 PM
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kwren--My DH was in meetings that day, so I was on my own and content to do all the girly stuff like this lol! He would have loved Eze, but hated Fragonnard I saw that shop after I was done at their big building, so I just walked past, but slowly, as it was still very tempting, lol. Food and city walking tours are a lot of fun!
I saw that shop after I was done at their big building, so I just walked past, but slowly, as it was still very tempting, lol. Food and city walking tours are a lot of fun!
Mar 16th, 2016, 02:59 PM
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Speaking of Èze, here are the pictures of that day, including our walk down the mountain and dinner in Villefranche...
https://niceisnicefeb2016.shutterfly.com/pictures/234
https://niceisnicefeb2016.shutterfly.com/pictures/234
Mar 18th, 2016, 02:55 PM
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THURSDAY - MONASTÈRE DE CINIEZ, MATISSE MUSEUM, ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM
As I said before, our hotel was in the perfect location. 1 block away was the bus stop for Bus 17 directly to the Cimiez Monastery. (Bus 15 would get within walking distance and also stops at the Chagall Museum.) It drove through around some hairpin curves and residential sections of Nice on the way and I got off at the last stop.
While I wouldn’t go out of my way for just the monastery, at least not in February, the Matisse and Archeological Museums were a in the adjacent park so visiting all 3 made sense. The church was beautiful and the tiny museum was interesting. There used to be 20+ monks living and working there, but now the numbers have dwindled to 5. They live on the floor under the museum. The gardens were a bit barren this time of year, but pansies were blooming and the orange trees were laden with fruit. It was a nice walk.
The Matisse Museum was small with few of his famous large cut-out artworks displayed, but I wasn’t too familiar with Matisse prior to this so learned a lot and enjoyed what there was to see. I was told that some of the other larger pieces had been leant out to other museums or exhibitions. One room had many of his small cut-outs displayed on separate pages so you could flip through them.
The Roman excavations next to the Matisse Museum made up half of the Arch. Museum, but the artifacts inside the actual building were interesting. There is a small Roman amphitheater across from the museum. The busses back to Nice stop near there.
TIP: It cost 10 Euros to go into the Matisse Museum, but this was actually the cost for a 48 hour Nice Museum pass including the Archeological Museum, art museums in the center of Nice, etc. It would make sense to plan accordingly if you want to see several. The pass bought at the Matisse Museum did not include the Chagall Museum. I had not planned accordingly.
Since I have been home, however, I came across a different pass which I will mention here and it supposedly covers many museums including the Matisse, Chagall, Archeological and Cimiez. Here is the link which I would recommend checking out in advance and compare to the on at the Matisse:
http://en.nicetourisme.com/Museums
HEART-SHAPED PIZZA - LES AMOUREUX
That night we took the tram to Place Garibaldi, walked to the port and went to Les Amoureux, a pizza place that had great reviews on Tripadvisor. It was located on the far side of the port, one block back from the main road encircling the port. The place was crowded but it was worth the short wait. We received our heart-shaped pizza (big enough to share although most people were each getting their own), usually given to the women, and some free Limoncello at the end of dinner. I also had a tasty pannacotta covered with chocolate sauce. I really like the Italian influence in Nice! By the way, don't forget to rub the bronze wall hanging (actually it's a small hunchback relief and you are supposed to rub his hump!) on the way out for good luck!
As I said before, our hotel was in the perfect location. 1 block away was the bus stop for Bus 17 directly to the Cimiez Monastery. (Bus 15 would get within walking distance and also stops at the Chagall Museum.) It drove through around some hairpin curves and residential sections of Nice on the way and I got off at the last stop.
While I wouldn’t go out of my way for just the monastery, at least not in February, the Matisse and Archeological Museums were a in the adjacent park so visiting all 3 made sense. The church was beautiful and the tiny museum was interesting. There used to be 20+ monks living and working there, but now the numbers have dwindled to 5. They live on the floor under the museum. The gardens were a bit barren this time of year, but pansies were blooming and the orange trees were laden with fruit. It was a nice walk.
The Matisse Museum was small with few of his famous large cut-out artworks displayed, but I wasn’t too familiar with Matisse prior to this so learned a lot and enjoyed what there was to see. I was told that some of the other larger pieces had been leant out to other museums or exhibitions. One room had many of his small cut-outs displayed on separate pages so you could flip through them.
The Roman excavations next to the Matisse Museum made up half of the Arch. Museum, but the artifacts inside the actual building were interesting. There is a small Roman amphitheater across from the museum. The busses back to Nice stop near there.
TIP: It cost 10 Euros to go into the Matisse Museum, but this was actually the cost for a 48 hour Nice Museum pass including the Archeological Museum, art museums in the center of Nice, etc. It would make sense to plan accordingly if you want to see several. The pass bought at the Matisse Museum did not include the Chagall Museum. I had not planned accordingly.
Since I have been home, however, I came across a different pass which I will mention here and it supposedly covers many museums including the Matisse, Chagall, Archeological and Cimiez. Here is the link which I would recommend checking out in advance and compare to the on at the Matisse:
http://en.nicetourisme.com/Museums
HEART-SHAPED PIZZA - LES AMOUREUX
That night we took the tram to Place Garibaldi, walked to the port and went to Les Amoureux, a pizza place that had great reviews on Tripadvisor. It was located on the far side of the port, one block back from the main road encircling the port. The place was crowded but it was worth the short wait. We received our heart-shaped pizza (big enough to share although most people were each getting their own), usually given to the women, and some free Limoncello at the end of dinner. I also had a tasty pannacotta covered with chocolate sauce. I really like the Italian influence in Nice! By the way, don't forget to rub the bronze wall hanging (actually it's a small hunchback relief and you are supposed to rub his hump!) on the way out for good luck!
Mar 18th, 2016, 03:41 PM
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What a fun trip report and great, lively writing style. I like your tradition of going to France every year that ends in a 6! And I'm a big believer in the restorative nap upon arrival.
Carnaval in Nice -- I'd never even thought of that, but it's a brilliant travel idea! All the parades sound fabulous, and the Lemon Festival sounds like it was totally amazing and unique. And Eze sounds incredible.
Keep it coming!
Carnaval in Nice -- I'd never even thought of that, but it's a brilliant travel idea! All the parades sound fabulous, and the Lemon Festival sounds like it was totally amazing and unique. And Eze sounds incredible.
Keep it coming!
Mar 18th, 2016, 05:52 PM
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Thanks so much bostonblondie! As far as my tradition goes, I can relax for the next 10 years! (Although that doesn't preclude other trips to France in between )
I'm glad you wrote your comment. It made me realize I haven't done any Lemon Festival pictures yet! I don't want to forget them!
)I'm glad you wrote your comment. It made me realize I haven't done any Lemon Festival pictures yet! I don't want to forget them!
