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Carnival ~ Carnaval! Nice & French Riviera in Feb (Menton, Eze, Antibes)

Carnival ~ Carnaval! Nice & French Riviera in Feb (Menton, Eze, Antibes)

Old Mar 7th, 2016, 06:44 AM
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Carnival ~ Carnaval! Nice & French Riviera in Feb (Menton, Eze, Antibes)

I sit down to write this trip report under the heavy influence of jet lag, yet fortified for the moment with my tea and a container of crystallized ginger (faites attention - c'est piquant, heh?!) from Antibes!

I have a lifelong tradition - I go to France in every year that ends in 6 - have done so my entire life, at first randomly in years coincidentally ending in 6, but now by design. One of those random years, I lived in Paris with my family. I didn't realize I had this particular tradition until 3 decades into my life when it dawned on me that this was definitely an important pattern that should not be ignored! I'm sure you can all agree! Initially, I had thought my mother ruined my tradition by not getting me to France that first year of my life (which just happened to end in 6), but in fact, she gets kudos for planning ahead and visiting while pregnant with for me. (Of course this tradition does not preclude extra trips in between the '6' years.) Fast forward to 2016. Thus starts my trip report.

The search for when and where to go. We started by talking about going in October but when you have a loooong tradition, you don't really want to leave it to the end of the year just in case something interferes then puts you smack into the middle of Thanksgiving and Christmas. Mais non! Change of timing to early 2016.

But where to go? France was the given, but where? The obvious choice - as far south as you can get. I have a job with summer French exchange students that really ramps up around March/April so Feb/March seemed to be in the running. Some quick research and I found that Nice celebrated Carnaval the last half of February. It's not hot then but there was a good chance of decent weather so there you go - Nice it was. Nice is nice!

The particulars:
2 weeks in Nice at the Hotel Massena (I know about apartments but we had a personal reason to stay at a hotel for this time)
No car (I know you can't visit some towns without one, but we took the train and busses whenever we wanted to be on the move)
We attended 3 different Carnival parades in Nice. We visited Menton for the Fetes de Citrons (Lemon Festival) and the Corso des Fruits. We went to Eze, Menton, Antibes and Avignon.
We met up with one exchange student we had hosted 22 years ago (and his family) and another (with family) who stayed with us for 4 summers starting in 1999.
We drank wine ~ we ate ~ we sat in cafes and drank wine or Pastis ~ we shopped ~ we drank wine ~ we relaxed ~ we ran around. Did I mention the wine?

It was a great vacation! If you don't like details you have gotten the overview of the trip by now and you might want to stop reading!
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Old Mar 7th, 2016, 06:48 AM
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And I forgot that we also took a day trip to Ventimiglia in Italy.
The overview should now be complete.
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Old Mar 7th, 2016, 07:07 AM
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Keep going I'm interested. And I like the style.

Been in all the places mentioned and at the same time (Carnaval in Nice, fête des citrons in Menton, plus corso de Bormes les Mimosas, not mentioned).

I believe in these semi-coincidences that become a habit. We did it with our kids : after realizing we gave them names of 5 letters, the last one HAD TO have a name of 5 letters.
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Old Mar 7th, 2016, 07:18 AM
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Hi Whathello! I considered Bormes les Mimosas but we didn't make it. It was a bit far (remember no car) and we had seen the Battle of the Flowers in Nice so it was one thing I cut out to make it a bit more relaxing for DH. It was a good decision because it rained there that day. We went the other direction to Menton where the weather wasn't bad and we saw the fruit parade.

I noticed a similar thing about my 3 boys' names along with mine and my husband's: they all end in N, but not on purpose. We adopted a girl and I came up with her name from a combination of mine and DH's. The N ending didn't work out, but I did consider it briefly! Genetics must have played a part - she didn't inherit the N like the boys did!
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Old Mar 7th, 2016, 07:24 AM
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We've got good friends who called their last daughter 'Elsa'. Each member of the family of has a name starting with a letter from 'Elsa'...

Bon, let's not digress you have to work on your report !
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Old Mar 7th, 2016, 07:56 AM
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Thank you kwren! I'm looking forward to this!
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Old Mar 7th, 2016, 10:40 AM
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OK on to the report!

We left Central PA and after a quick stop in NYC to have lunch with my dad, drove on to JFK. Some of you may have read my post about parking at JFK. It was about $500 to park in the airport garage for 2 weeks, but I was lucky and found an off-site lot for less than half of that. My major concern was what would happen if it would snow, being recently traumatized by the 36 inch snowfall on the Saturday of the previous week. We watched the weather reports and decided it was worth the risk to park outside. Turns out that this place - the cheapest one we found - was one that we had used a few years before and had been happy with. They said they clear off the cars when it snows and it was valet parking. Win win. I'll say now that when we returned from our trip, the seats had not been changed in position and the mileage was the same, unlike a place we used near EWR. The car was waiting for us by the office and they honored the online price no problem. Good place to park!

Our flight on Aer Lingus ($701 round trip) was on time, although we have had more comfortable seats on other airlines, and they did not provide free alcohol Other recent flights we have taken all gave free booze, but the way I looked at it, it was a cheap flight so we could buy what we wanted. The food was meh. I got a few hours of fitful sleep, and we changed flights in Dublin.

Arrival into Nice was wonderful due to my window seat on the right side of the plane. Seeing the backdrop of the snow-covered Alps against the clear blue sky then landing into the foreground of palm trees let us know that our choice of vacation locale was a good one.

We took the short taxi ride in an incredibly ritzy car with a uniformed driver for 34 Euros. The driver said the clientele demands nice things, but this was on par with a reserved car service. Our hotel, the Massena Hotel, checked us in quickly. We then did what seems to be controversial on Fodors - we took a nap! Between the bit of sleep on the planes, a 1 1/2 hour snooze, and the excitement of being in Europe, this works like a charm for us. (Coming home was - and still is - a different matter, right soogies?)

Might as well talk about the hotel now. Location location location! We were 2 blocks from the tram, which was also where many of the Carnaval events took place, steps from a bus stop where 3 of the 4 busses we used stopped, walking distance from the train station, while passing many stores and an upscale mall, close to the Old Town, and basically next door to Galeries Lafayette and another adorable shop. DH was alternately thrilled and worried (shopping!) about this location. The only reasons not to stay there would be if you must have a water view or you want to spend $500 a night. Our prices with a special online deal were $125 during the week and $200 on the weekends. Being Carnaval, all staff members were dressed in costumes, the hotel was decorated a bit, and added to the festive atmosphere of the whole city. They really got into it! Our room had been recently renovated, and the bathroom was beautiful. Everything was spotless. The breakfast buffet was enough to keep us going until dinner - eggs and sausage, cereals, fresh and canned fruits, salads (I ate carrot salad most mornings - go figure!), yogurts, and of course baguettes, croissants, breads and trays of cold meats and cheeses.

We took a walk to get the lay of the land and checked out Place Massena with it's two Giant Carnaval floats and had dinner at the Gioffredo restaurant, which I do not necessarily recommend, across the street. My croque monsieur was pre-made, which I know can be the norm, but it was not fully heated and dry. The wine was good though! My husband had some lamb chops and a delicious layered potato and carrot casserole.
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Old Mar 7th, 2016, 01:28 PM
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The next day was spent wandering around - nothing too exciting in terms of a trip report. We passed all the shops on the main drag and ended up at the train station. It is being renovated now so, FYI, there are no departure boards at the entrances, but you can find one in the ticket office. We tried to use the machines to buy tickets for Sunday, but there were too many choices that we didn't understand at most steps and we gave up. Instead, we took a number and spoke to an agent. That ended up being preferable because we didn't know that DH could get a discount due to his *ahem* age. I was happy that my French was understandable enough to complete the transaction without reverting back to English. Another FYI, if you go to the office to buy a ticket, take a number first in case you need an agent. There was about an hour wait to see an agent, and they told me that it is very often like that.

On the way back, we stopped at a McDonalds. Don't panic! It wasn't to eat. I just love to see what they have on the menu and this trip in didn't disappoint. They are currently featuring "American Winter", "fromage pané et fondant", essentially a huge oval mozzarella stick in various combinations with wraps or burgers. So that's what they think of Americans! More interestingly, you order on huge touch screens when you first enter - pages of screens. As I said, we weren't there to eat so I only watched some kids use one, but I did see a McCafé section over their shoulder. Hmmm, what could that be? Then we noticed it across the room. A separate counter café-style, serving tiny espressos on special McCafé labeled plates with tiny chocolate or apple desserts, a la francais! Then I noticed the macarons! At McDonalds! Now, I have had varying success making macarons at home. They are time-consuming and often flop, and if bought, they cost around $3 each in the US, yet here was McD selling them for 1 Euro each in the McCafé! We wanted to try one, but the lines and mobs of people everywhere made the decision to skip it a very easy one. We have to say that this place had more people in it than any other restaurant we went to. Amazing.

After a beautiful early evening walk by the sea (it was about 15 degrees celsius, 59F) we were getting hungry, but of course at 6:30 we were too early for the 7:30 dinner hour in most restaurants. We needed to have an early dinner to be done before the evening's activity. We managed to find a restaurant called Felix Faure which was open and although we were the first ones there, the waiter was very happy to seat us. What a friendly guy - with no other customers, he was thrilled to spend time talking to us. I had a huge pot of moules provencal and they were the most tender mussels I have ever had. The French fries were not the typical skinny fries you often see in France, but they were perfect. DH had a delicious 4 cheese pizza. All very satisfying.

So the evening activity? Lou Queernaval! I guess the closest description would be a Gay Pride parade (according to our waiter) but in Carnaval format! The parade itself consisted of many guys in feathers, wings, boas, wigs, make-up, etc. on enormous floats. There was a lot of loud music, dancing, noise, announcements, singing, topped off with Silly String fights, confetti, flashing lights, streamers shot at least 3 stories high out of special streamer-shooting guns. The audience was a different matter. Families, friends, just every day people out to see a spectacle. For our first Carnaval event, this was way more than we imagined and a lot of fun! It was the only free event so it was packed. Carnaval has started!
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Old Mar 7th, 2016, 11:42 PM
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Thanks for this - really enjoying the report. Nice is a weekend destination we often consider (living in Dublin) but never in February - I didn't know about Carnaval - looking forward to hearing the rest
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Old Mar 8th, 2016, 05:53 AM
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COURS SALEYA, OUR FRENCH EXCHANGE STUDENT, FLOWER BATTLE

Cours Saleya – this touristy section of the Old Town is a busy flower market on one end – beautiful tulips, mimosas and poppies were everywhere - and a fruit/veggie market on the other, but also packed with stands of olives, oils, cheese, scattered souvenirs, and trays of beautiful marzipan fruits and animals. Artichokes and zucchini flowers were abundant this time of year. This is where we met Sebastian, our French exchange student who stayed with us for part of 2 summers in 1994 and ‘95.

Seb is now married and has 3 kids. His fiancée came to visit us in 2003 and was so entertained by my then 13 year old son playing Disney music on his saxophone that she invited him to play at their wedding later that year. He played for 20 minutes accompanied only by a CD and the guests all cheered and danced as he continued. Later, he was given a birthday gift by the bride and groom as that day was his 14th birthday. What an experience!

Anyway…

We met up with Seb and his family at a café where we drank, caught up, and exchanged bags of presents. We explored the Old Town, stopped to get the kids some lunch, walked along the sea’s rocky beach and finally went to the event of the day - the Flower Parade.

The Flower Parade was much more subdued than Lou Queernaval! This was a paid event – either 25 Euros to sit in a reserved seat in the stands or 10 Euros to stand somewhere along the route. The entire area was walled in and we had to pass through security to enter. They checked bags and had separate lines for men and women since everyone got a brief pat down. Beautiful floats were covered with all types of flowers. The people riding the floats tossed out showers of flowers to the lower sections of the stands. FYI – if you want to catch flowers, reserve seats lower down. We were at the top so didn’t catch any, but the people at the bottom went away carrying full armloads. There were acrobats, streamers, confetti, horses, showgirls, Hawaiian dancers, ballerinas on stilts, a giant poofy spider which was driven up to the crowds, and various enormous balloons like you would see in a Macys parade. One was a huge tyrannosaurus rex which must have been at least 5 stories tall. He didn’t just float along the parade route – the men holding the cables would make him turn and bring his head right down into the audience. The parade lasted about 1 ½ hours.

Seb’s wife took the kids to a relative’s house for the night while Seb took us up to the chateau on the cliff overlooking Nice. You can choose stairs leading up from Vielle Ville, but there are also stairs or a free elevator at the end of the Quai des Etats-Unis. We got to the top and watched the setting sun as the lights of Nice came on one by one. We got back down to wait for Seb’s wife to return and pick us up to go to dinner outside of Nice, but unfortunately, the traffic was so backed up that we waited over an hour for her to arrive and by then she was so stressed that we abandoned the idea and settled into a small creperie back at the Cours Saleya. That experience made me glad we hadn’t booked a car!
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Old Mar 8th, 2016, 07:23 AM
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littlejane - I would definitely recommend a weekend in Nice, whether or not it is Carnaval season, but you might not want to go in the height of summer. We were told that the population triples then and everywhere you go it is very very crowded! You will have no trouble filling up a weekend with great things to do!

Lovely girl, they will be coming! There were a lot to whittle down!
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Old Mar 8th, 2016, 04:06 PM
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MENTON, THE FETE DU CITRON AND L’EXPOSITION DES MOTIFS D’AGRUMES

This is what I’ve been waiting for! The Lemon Festival!

We took the half hour train ride to Menton, the prime lemon-growing region in Europe located on the Cote d’Azur near the border of France and Italy…along with a mob of people! We followed the crowds toward the sea once we arrived… to be met by a wall. We had hit the parade route and again it was walled off, preventing us from going any farther. We backtracked until we found the Jardin Bioves, our destination, and where we met our exchange student and family. The garden was home to magnificent monuments, buildings and sculptures made of hundreds of thousands of lemons and oranges (matched only by the number of people there to see them!) and decorated in this year’s theme, Cinecitta, recreating scenes from famous movies. There was the Sphinx from Cleopatra and scenes from La Dolce Vita, Titanic, Romeo and Juliet and others. Some of these exhibits required over 15 tons of fruit. The patterns of yellows and orange hues were breathtaking, and huge, some over 3 stories tall. The fruit was placed one at a time and each was held to the mesh each with a single rubber band. I can’t imagine the time and effort it took to complete all the work.

I don’t have my pictures up yet, but go to:

http://www.ibtimes.co.uk/menton-lemo...-fruit-1543320

I read that Menton expected around 240,000 visitors to this year’s festival so I looked up the normal population: around 30,000 normally so you can imagine how crowded everything was. Luckily, it was always easy to find a café to get a Pastis!

Finished in the gardens, we continued across the street to the Palais de l’Europe for the Orchid Festival. This was a free event and featured gorgeous orchids ranging in size from the normal large size down to ½ inch orchids. Some decorated shoes or purses.

Next was to explore Menton a bit. We walked to the other end of the town to the zig-zagging staircase up to the 17th Century Basilica St. Michel which looked more Italian than French. Just above that church was the smaller and simpler Chapelle des Penitents Blancs. I particularly enjoyed the Stations of the Cross artwork inside. From there we continued on up through the narrow passageways of Vieux Menton and stumbled upon the many levels of the Old Chateau Cemetery. So many of the monuments were elaborate and huge, and obviously representing many different nationalities. My favorite was the Russian influence of the onion dome chapel. It was fascinating to read the headstones because apparently, many people from different countries came to Menton to recuperate from various illnesses. Best of all were the views over the red tile roofs of the mountains, harbor, Italian Riviera and Mediterranean.

Time to go back to Nice and we received a tip to assure finding a seat on a train packed with crowds going back home. Instead of going back to the main Menton station, walk towards Italy to the Menton Garavan station. It wasn’t far and the train was empty, compared to how it completely filled up to standing room only once the Lemon Festival crowds got on in Menton. Great tip for crowded times!

Back in Nice we found a small Italian restaurant called Bistrot Caffe Bianco. DH had a wonderful fish and mussels dish while I had steak and frites, topped off with one of my favorites – profiteroles!
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Old Mar 9th, 2016, 12:13 PM
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Monday – FLORIAN and CANTINE DE LULU

Not much happening today – bit of shopping and a walk to the port where we visted Florian and had a short free tour of how fruit their is candied and flowers are crystallized. Lot and lots of samples in the showroom. If you are walking around the port, I recommend stopping in. It's on the east side of the port just across from the water.

My first great restaurant recommendation is La Cantine de LuLu near Place Massena. Their door sports the following handwritten letter:

"Dear Strangers!!! Here is a French restaurant with local food from Nice. No fast food…Don’t look for pizza, pasta, chicken, soup, breakfast, hamburger, hot dog, ketchup, soja sauce, etc… Say hello and have a Smile ☺"

There was one friendly and talkative waiter and about 9 tables, a chef and sous chef in the tiny open kitchen, and they kept things running smoothly. Our dinner was rustic, tasty and fresh. We started with the battered and fried fleurs de courgettes (tiny zucchini with the flower) and traditional Daube (a Provencal stew) and Merde de Can. That last one is translated, well…let’s keep it clean and say it’s also a local form of green gnocchi which looks sort of like the literal translation I suppose. It was delicious. All was locally sourced. Not gourmet. I jokingly asked for ketchup and the waiter and chef almost fainted until they saw I was kidding and we all enjoyed a good laugh. Finished up with Chocolate mousse and gratis limoncello for some diners (including us!)
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Old Mar 10th, 2016, 12:40 PM
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My first pictures:
Overview of Nice

https://niceisnicefeb2016.shutterfly.com/pictures/10
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Old Mar 11th, 2016, 06:52 AM
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Lou Queernaval pictures:

https://niceisnicefeb2016.shutterfly.com/pictures/71
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Old Mar 11th, 2016, 07:22 AM
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And the Flower Parade pictures:

https://niceisnicefeb2016.shutterfly.com/pictures/87
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Old Mar 12th, 2016, 03:58 AM
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TUESDAY - FOOD TOUR FIASCO AND CORSO (PARADE) CARNAVAL ILLUMINÉ

We sent an email to the French Way last Friday asking some questions about their Nice Food Tour. We never got a response but since it was over the weekend, decided to book anyway. (We had gone back and forth between choosing the ‘French Way and ‘A Taste of Nice’ Food Tours - both had good reviews on Tripadvisor - and we finally settled on FW.) The confirmation email confirmed the date (according to the subject line), but the body of the email was completely blank. Not worried, I sent 3 emails asking them to resend it, but received no response, so this morning we called the company to ask for the meeting place and time. I have to say that the owner was very rude. She immediately said we in a nasty tone that we had no reservations for the tour and that there wasn’t one scheduled, and that they had no payment. I told her we had confirmation of both the tour and payment, but she actually argued with me on both counts for quite a while.

Unbelievable!

She finally decided to look into it a bit (shouldn’t that have been the first thing to do?!) and did see our reservation (duh!) and proof of payment. Sorry no tour today – you can come tomorrow. I said that wasn’t possible – we had made various plans around this date. Could she ask the guide to meet us later? First she said no, but I persisted. Finally she said she would call someone and call me back. She did call back and found someone who could throw on some clothes and meet us near our hotel. No apology. Worst. Customer. Service. Ever. We did not have high hopes about this tour.

On a tangent and because the tour was actually very good in the end, I’ll jump ahead a bit and say that we nervously went ahead and booked a Cooking Class with this same company because of, again, great reviews and trying to give benefit of the doubt. That online reservation went through again, and this time we got a complete email outlining the necessary details this. We thought we were set. However, that class was canceled the next day. I emailed again to see if we could work out an alternate time because we really wanted to do the cooking class, and again, no response. I would never recommend this company based on the nasty and/or nonexistent customer service.

Anyway, back to the tour, we really enjoyed! The guide was very sweet, talkative, and spoke excellent English, but was not the guide who was normally used for this tour. She gave us the interesting history of Nice and the Vieille Ville while buying local specialties along the way in the market and old town. Some we tasted right away like crystallized flowers, calissons, clementine confit, a chocolate covered almond. Others like bugnes and tourte aux blettes, we ate at a café with hot drinks that she purchased for us. After that stop, there were more visits to pick up food and more history of the area. We received an enormous helping of socca, a specialty of Nice – a large roughly cut section of a huge flat pancake made from chick pea flour, water, olive oil and salt and cooked an a flat pan that was about 2 feet wide. We ate it hot in the market from its paper wrap and noticed that there was always a line of people waiting to but it. A man would come with a small cart and replace the pan each time it was empty. We stopped at a stand and were each asked to choose a Farcis Niçois – a meat filled tomato, pepper, or zucchini , stopped for cheese, bought a hearty grained peasant bread, pissaladière, tapenade, and cherry tomatoes at the market, and finally ended up at an olive oil store where we were given samples on a spoon of about 6 different oils. During the tasting, the guide was busy setting up a table of all the remaining foods we had not tasted along with a fig syrup that you mix with water and a bottle of rosé wine. We didn’t quite reach the advertised 20 tastings, but that is splitting hairs. We were very full after all that we did receive and many of these foods were things we would have never tasted on our own. The tour was great, but again, I would avoid this company since there seems to be an equally good competitor.

That evening we went to the Illuminated Parade with, honestly speaking, some really creepy looking, albeit artistic in some strange way, floats interspersed with costumed participants, Vegas-style girls, etc. similar to those of the Flower Parade. They must have sold thousands of cans of Silly String and bags of confetti because those were flying the entire time. There were canons which shot metallic streamers and confetti high into the air, the streamer-shooting guns we saw before and of course the general merriment, light and noise of the other parade. It was fascinating and something we had to see at least once in our lives. Add in the huge lit ferris wheel behind the stands, the palm trees, the crowds and it was really fun.

These parades are run completely differently from parades in the US. There is a circular route (walled off of course – 25 Euros for a reserved seat or 10 for a spot standing amongst the crowds) and the floats are positioned evenly all the way around so everyone who has paid to attend sees the parade starting at the exact same time. Very cool concept. The parade lasted about 1 ½ hours.
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Old Mar 12th, 2016, 07:22 AM
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Cours Saleya Market, Old Town Nice, Food Tour

https://niceisnicefeb2016.shutterfly.com/pictures/113
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Old Mar 12th, 2016, 11:32 AM
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I guess I really did put in too many details. I will cut back.
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Old Mar 12th, 2016, 12:49 PM
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I'm enjoying your details very much. My husband and I are going to be in Nice next month so I'm particularly interested in your restaurant experiences. Thank you for sharing.
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