karolinatx

Hello wise Fodorites. We're off to Italy for our honeymoon the 2nd half of October, and I was hoping for some words of advice (we're 27 and 34 years old and athletic experienced travelers, if that makes a difference). Here's what we've got so far:

* Flying in to Rome Fiumicino on 10/20. We're using FF miles, hence Rome and not Naples. Take the train from Fiumicino to Termini. Then take train from Termini to Naples. We're not planning on buying any train tickets ahead of time -- should we be ok in October?

* Taking a taxi from Naples train station to Molo Beverello (this is the closer dock, correct?). Then take a hydrofoil or ferry to Capri. Is there any chance that these will not be running in October? Once again, will we be ok not buying tickets in advance?

* 5 nights at the Ceasar Augustus in Anacapri. How much is there to do in Anacapri? Will we want to go to the town of Capri every day? Should we rely on buses to do this, even at night, or should we take taxis?

* Take a hydrofoil or ferry to Positano on the 25th. Stay at the Villa Rosa Positano for two nights.

* Take a hydrofoil or ferry from Positano to Naples on the 27th, then take train from Naples to Rome Termini. Do the Positano-Naples hydrofoil and ferry run year-round? Or is there an easier way of getting from Positano to Rome?

* Walk or metro from Rome Termini to Residenza Cellini, where we will we be staying for four nights.

* Leave Rome back to the States on the 31st. Haven't decided yet if we'll use a car service, taxi, or take the train from Termini to Fiumicino.

Any other comments on the accomodations we've chosen or the itinerary in general? I've spent a lot of time on these boards researching various options, but would greatly appreciate any other recommendation people may have, especially in the way of must-see places, great restaurants, etc. Thank you!

Tuni01

We visited these same cities last year. I'd suggest staying your first 2-3 nights in Naples. There are some great sites (and pizza) plus I think you've set a very long agenda to get to Capri on your first day. There is a terrific museum, Museo Archeologico Nazionale that has finds from Pompeii. Also a great art museum, Capodimonte. From Naples, you can easily take a day trip to Herculaneum. We saw both Herc. and Pompeii and really loved Herc. We then took the hydrofoil to Capri. I'd stay in Capri not Anacapri. It has lots more restarants and a great quite feeling at night after all the day trippers leave. There really isn't much in Anacapri (or Capri really) some hiking and shopping. The bus ride to Anacapri was very nerve racking for me. I wouldn't want to do it at night. I'd recommend the La Minerva hotel. We had a great room and view for around $130. We also stayed at Villa Rosa. I think we had the best room there with a huge terrace. IT was fabulous. We loved Positano. Very romantic.
There is so much to see in Rome. A great end to your trip.

karolinatx

Well, the reason that we're going straight to Capri is that after a year of wedding planning hell, I'm fairly certain that all I'm going to want to do, for the most part, is just GET SOMEWHERE BEAUTIFUL and lay around and RELAX. ;-) Hence the Ceasar Augustus, hence 5 nights on Capri. We're saving the more touristy stuff for the 2nd half of the honeymoon.

bobthenavigator

I like your plan--you seem to have done your homework. Your exposure is the travel by water. You will likely be fine, but be prepared for possible ferry cancellations based on high seas.
I assume you have checked schedules for the water transport. Also, on your way back to Rome, I would bus or taxi to Salerno and take the direct train into Termini--or the ferry boat if running.
Good luck and best wishes.

ira

Hi Karolina,

Since you are planning to go directly to Naples upon arrival in Rome, I suggest you have your tickets upon arrival.

You can get your other train tickets after arrival.

I found Euraide very helpful.
In USA 1 941-480-1555

amyb

While it will be a long trek for your first day, I don't suggest staying in Naples for any length of time. If you do some research here, you'll see it isn't the greatest of stops in many opinions (mine included) and I think after the planning and excitement of your wedding you should get to Capri ASAP.

Having done the Naples-Rome trip myself, I recommend getting tix in advance with seat reservations, just so you are guaranteed a seat. I think I used Rail Europe here in the States, but they charge a much higher price than other sources. I use them only because they've always been convenient for me.

Congrats and have fun!

Parker

Something else to keep in mind: My husband and I flew in to Rome in June and we had to wait (along with everyone else on our flight) for over two hours to get our luggage only to find out that two out of the four bags did not come with us on that flight. It took another hour and a half to fill out the paper work to get our luggage delivered to our hotel. If you're planning on pre-buying your train ticket to Naples, leave yourself plenty of time for such delays. We have always bought our tickets right before we boarded with no problems. I'm sure that since you're experienced travelers, you know to carry your toiletries, extra underwear, etc. with you on the plane just in case. We did that but all of our clothes were in the two bags that didn't make it so we had to wear the same clothes (that we'd already worn on the plane) for the next two days until our luggage arrived. Since you're heading to Capri, you may want to make sure you take your bathing suits with you and a complete change of clothes. We also just returned from Positano and had a wonderful time. Have fun! Ciao ...

CoachBoy

1. Don't waste your time and $$$ buying train tickets in advance. In October, the trains will be empty - esp. between naples and rome. And in the remote event that the train is booked, you can always travel 2nd class. Only 1st class gets sold out.

2. I was just in Naples and loved it. However, it's not a city for everyone and not a place to unwind and relax.

3. I thought the island of Capri was stunningly beautiful ONCE you get out of the town of Capri. That is tourist hell - all I heard were americans talking about $$$. It's really gaudy. There is a great gelateria right up the street from the Quisiana (sp?). Also, restaurant Da Tonino towards the Arce Naturale was fantastic - beautiful setting.

3. Hydrofoils run often - however, I believe the last one leaves Naples around 7:00 pm. If you have any delays, you may not make it. Yes, Molo Beverello is the dock you want. And if the weather is rough (possible in October), the hydrofoils wont run so you'll have to take a regular boat (cheaper, but about 1/2 hour longer).

4. Taxis are a fortune in Capri - from the Marina to Capri center it was $15.

5. It may be easier to go from Positano to Salerno and take a train from there. Ask the hotel.

Personally, I would end my vacation in Amalfi. I find that big cities are less pleasant after going to the countryside - loud, hectic and dirty. And after all that sightseeing, just relaxing at a hotel is nice.

Congrats and enjoy your trip.

Coachboy

karolinatx

Thank you to everyone for your thoughtful and helpful responses. Coachboy, I agree with you that large cities after the countryside can be somewhat jarring -- we experienced that last year when we went to Lisbon after spending a week in the Portuguese countryside. But, I don't think that I could live with myself if I was flying in and out of Rome but didn't spend any time there. Parker, your lost luggage sounds like a nightmare. Thanks for the tip though -- I always try to pack a change of clothing in my carryon for that reason. Yikes!

Maggy

I think your plans sound perfect. Your adrenaline and excitement will keep you going for the long travel day getting to Capri. But what a payoff when you see the views and charm of Capri. Since you are going in late October you won't experience the loads of tourists people talk about...besides I was there in July and didn't let the loads of tourists spoil my idyllic experience. I recommend dinner at Villa Brunella. It's a great small hotel in Capri with a fantastic little restaurant with great views. About Rome, people say it's so crowded and busy but again, you're going in October so it will be perfect. I find Rome to be such a romantic city. About the trains, I have never bought tickets in advance and never have had a problem. I always use the automatic machines in the train stations, they are very self explanatory. Just give yourself some extra time to figure out the logistics and you'll be fine. Enjoy your perfect honeymoon!

Jean

When in Anacapri, take the single-chair lift up the mountainside for a great view from the highest point on the island. There is a small terrace and cafe on top that was (still) open when we were there in late October 2002.

When you arrive in Rome, I'd take a taxi to your hotel. Unless you've been to Rome and your hotel before, it's very easy to get turned around. And dragging luggage around when you're lost gets old quick. When you leave Rome, I'd take the shuttle train unless your check-in time is very early.

You've picked great places for your honeymoon. Buona fortuna!

The cheapest way around Capri is on the bus service. A previous poster described it as nerve-racking. Hmmm. Don't know why. We bought all-day tickets and went everywhere. Loved it.

I also think Naples is worth a visit. I'd trim one day off your time in Capri and give it to Naples on your way back.

In late October you'll have no trouble with train tickets/seats. Wait to buy after you get there. But as Bobthenavigator said, ferries don't run when the water is rough. Have a back-up plan for other transport. Having said that, the water was like glass when we were there last October.

dln

I have a small question to ask about the hydrofoil. We're going to be taking it to Capri and I read somewhere that I ought to wear a windbreaker jacket because of the waterspray. I really don't want to pack more than I have to, so--is this really necessary? (trip is in early Sept.)

fluffy

Your plan, is great, the hydrfoils will be running in Oct. but I would check the schedule before you leave, log on to www.caprionline.com to get the current schedule the week you leave.
You will love Capri, it's my favorite place in all the world.You must eat at the Lemon restaurant, I forget the Italian name for it, but everyone on the island knows where it is, it's also featured on caprionline.com I think there is a photo.
Congrats.
la dolce Capri
fluffy

wayno

If, for one reason or another, you do some of your travelling by land rather than hydrofoil or ferry and thus find that you'll be going via Sorrento on the way to Naples from Positano, you have the opportunity for a spectacular meal in a lovely romantic spot. Not far from Sorrento in little Santa Agata, perched above the sea, is the reknowned Don Alfonso, a Michelin starred restaurant featuring its own gardens and serving its own produce. Would be perfect for honeymooners who appreciate good food from fine, natural ingredients. You'll probably need a res., and make sure it's open in Oct. Also, what was most memorable about Capri was taking the chairlift to the top of Mt. Solari and bringing sandwiches from a deli in Capri -- fresh mozarella, tomatoes and proscuitto on fresh crusty bread -- and sitting on the hillside taking in the view. You have a very nice trip planned; lots of contrasts, and all good.

viaggiatore

karolinatx, congrats on your upcoming wedding! You have done a lot of homework and I'm sure you'll get your reward. We stayed at the Caesar Augustus 3 weeks ago. There is a no more beautiful place to celebrate your love than here at the CA in Anacapri literally among the clouds. Here are my tips:

We also stayed 5 nights and only went into Capri 1 time for dinner. It is usually overcrowded with day trippers. I would imagine, if the weather's good, we'll find you at the fabulous CA's infinity pool during the day. If not, there is plenty to do in Anacapri, like touring the Chiesa di San Michele, a beautiful church inside with paintings and an unbelievable floor which is completely tiled in a depiction of the Garden of Eden. Like taking the chairlift up Mt. Solaro for a picnic 2K feet above the Bay of Naples and enjoying the sight of I Faraglioni, La Penisola Sorrentina, Vesuvio, Napoli & Ischia in the distance. Like hikes to La Migliera and Tiberius' Damecuta and the Blue Hole. Like touring the Villa San Michele (across the street) built by Axel Munthe, physician and animal lover (be sure to read his Story of San Michele). Like getting to know some of the wonderfully friendly people of Anacapri.

The staff at the CA are great advisors. Tony is the driver who will pick you up at the dock and take you up to CA. He will also take you back down to Capri when you might feel the need, for free. A taxi's fare from Capri up to CA will only be €5 + tip. Franco, the mgr, is simply one of the best in all Campania. Upon arrival, he'll give you a map and all his recommendations and he will make any reservations from dinners to boatrides you might need. Bruno, CA's restaurant mgr, is da man to know. You can take all his recommendations, including what to have for lunch and where to hike, to da bank.

Great eats can be found in Anacapri at La Rondonella, Il Solitario, Il Cucciolo and La Materita. In Capri, don't miss La Campannina. In Positano, don't miss Da Vincenzo & Lo Guarracino.

Have a great trip!

karolinatx

Goodie. Thanks for all the great suggestions and advice, everyone. Keep them coming if you think of anything else.

Now that all the planning is done, I can actually relax and start getting excited about the trip, as opposed to running around like a chicken with its head cut off. Well, strike that. I'll still be doing that, but for other wedding-related reasons. ;-)

JaneS

Karolinatx-
Just my two cents- we did a similar honeymoon in May: 2 nights in Rome, 1 night in Capri, 3 nights in Positano, and 2 nights back in Rome. I think if we had to do it over again, we would have stayed longer in Positano- perhaps one more night. We just loved it there. Capri was beautiful as well and we are really glad we spent the night there but I don't think I could have done more than 2 nights. Again, this is just personal preference. Best of luck to you. It really was the perfect honeymoon for us and you will be happy no matter what!

To DLN: We took the hydrofoil and experienced no water spray. There is an enclosed cabin on the hydrofoils if you are worried about it.


Jane

dln

Thanks, Jane, I really do prefer an open deck, unsoaked!

bluefan

dln,

The hydrofoils I've seen have no open deck seating, the jet-ferrys however do. If given the choice, I would opt for the jet ferry to get the opportunity to feel the rush of the Mediterranean air. Especially upon leaving Capri since you can get a full unobstructed view of the glorious island, which can also leave you sad at the same time :'(

The reason why windbreakers are rec'd is to combat the wind for a more comfortable ride NOT the water spray. Unless water conditions are really choppy and you're seated in the rear sides, you won't get wet.

dln

Bluefan the jet ferry sounds wonderful, more so because of the view! My stupid contact lenses are so sensitive that I have to be ultra careful lately with water spray. I certainly don't want the view of a lifetime going blurry on me. Thanks for the extra bit of experience you passed on.